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(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

7 years ago



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  • 3,931 posts
  • 374 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Magno
  • Topic is favorited by 176 Pinsiders

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There are 3931 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 79.
#3051 1 year ago

Oh, that feeling that you get when your dad tells you about a box of pinball parts in his basement and it just happens to contain the plastic set that you bought 10 years earlier and couldn't find. Including a set of protectors that I made.
IMG_20190923_231152 (resized).jpg

#3052 1 year ago

CAN'T beat it !!!!

#3053 1 year ago

Lighting complete! Before and after.

A few questions...

There are 2 pop bumpers with 1 screw each that I can't gain access to to change the lights out. Do I really have to remove the ramps? Is there a trick to it? It's weird because some have access holes in the ramp and some don't. Bad idea to drill a few holes into it? Lol

Lastly I need a cleaner as I'm getting a lot of dirt trails near the flippers, inlanes, outlanes. I read a lot of the cleaning thread and it makes my head hurt. My takeaway was less is more in the long run. My game had what I would guess is aftermarket mylar. So my thought is that maybe Novus#1 would be good enough on the mylar, plastic and rubber? Play field in general looks amazing, the only place I see some light cracks is near the outlanes, I'm guessing that's in the clearcoat. So maybe skip #1 in that area and go with #2? Just want to remove the dirt and preserve the outlanes best as possible. Vacuuming will also be part of the cleaning routine. I read enough last night to make my head hurt, and I don't even want to start with wax talk lol.

Will be ordering new balls, and some cleaning supplies soon. I'm new, I'm reading, I'm trying to learn and appreciate the help. Love playing the game but it is very unforgiving with drains.

20190921_110943 (resized).jpg20190925_103948 (resized).jpg
#3054 1 year ago
Quoted from misterman:

Lighting complete! Before and after.
A few questions...
There are 2 pop bumpers with 1 screw each that I can't gain access to to change the lights out. Do I really have to remove the ramps? Is there a trick to it? It's weird because some have access holes in the ramp and some don't. Bad idea to drill a few holes into it? Lol
Lastly I need a cleaner as I'm getting a lot of dirt trails near the flippers, inlanes, outlanes. I read a lot of the cleaning thread and it makes my head hurt. My takeaway was less is more in the long run. My game had what I would guess is aftermarket mylar. So my thought is that maybe Novus#1 would be good enough on the mylar, plastic and rubber? Play field in general looks amazing, the only place I see some light cracks is near the outlanes, I'm guessing that's in the clearcoat. So maybe skip #1 in that area and go with #2? Just want to remove the dirt and preserve the outlanes best as possible. Vacuuming will also be part of the cleaning routine. I read enough last night to make my head hurt, and I don't even want to start with wax talk lol.
Will be ordering new balls, and some cleaning supplies soon. I'm new, I'm reading, I'm trying to learn and appreciate the help. Love playing the game but it is very unforgiving with drains.[quoted image][quoted image]

Much better with the regular lights in my opinion. Unless its a Diamondplate playfield it's not clearcoated so be careful buffing it to much as you can go right through the paint. Keep playing.You will get better.

#3055 1 year ago

I use novus 2 and pure carnuba wax on pretty much all my machines.my head also hurt trying to figure out what I should do.

#3056 1 year ago

Thank you for saving that game from the colorbomb.

#3057 1 year ago
Quoted from misterman:

Will be ordering new balls, and some cleaning supplies soon

Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.

#3058 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.

More light where?

-1
#3059 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.

Why ??
WhiWi is great as it is ... without the rainbow puke shitty LED !!

#3060 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.

Honestly the picture doesn't really do justice to the middle of the play field. It's looks much better in person and is more than sufficient.

#3061 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Get some spot light sockets and reflectors to add some more light to the playfield.

I agree with grumpy. Honestly all system 11 games need spotlights added. I also add a strip in the trough to light the flippers. All new games have extra lights that the older games do not have. It helps the dark spots. I do only use white bulbs in the GI though so don’t everyone get their panties in a bunch. Lol

#3062 1 year ago

WhirlWind does have some handy places that a couple spotlights could be added without them being intrusive. I lit my flipper drain also with a 7led strip

#3063 1 year ago

Would anyone happen to have an extra left diverter that they would be willing to part with? If so please let me know. Thank you!

#3064 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Why ??
WhiWi is great as it is ... without the rainbow puke shitty LED !!

You realize spotlights are white light and not colored correct? Therefore they cannot be, as you like to say, "rainbow puke." Good call though on down voting people based on you not knowing what you are talking about. Congrats on being the guy to get his panties in a bunch... There is always at least one

#3065 1 year ago

So.... to make it brighter... would you use the super bright 4 smd's instead of the warm white for the GI.... like people usually go for?

#3066 1 year ago

Anyone have pics of a WW with some spotlights?

#3067 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Anyone have pics of a WW with some spotlights?

I don’t have one of whirlwind and mine is not accessible at the moment. Here is a pic of my Pinbot with spotlights and a trough light. No color just white light. I think all system 11 games are dark in the center. I believe that is why stern and other new manufacturers add spotlights to lots of places. Also (they are not my cup of tea so don’t crucify me for saying it) the reasons pinstadium lights are so popular.

Quoted from scampcamp:

So.... to make it brighter... would you use the super bright 4 smd's instead of the warm white for the GI.... like people usually go for?

I use 2smd cool white but to each their own. Some people are sold on incandescent lights only. At the end of the day it is your game so you should put whatever you think looks best on it.

4FED6D82-B53A-48FF-93E9-8F2DD48CF595 (resized).jpegB769E938-54DA-4FB6-BFC1-52430E300BBE (resized).jpeg
#3068 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

So.... to make it brighter... would you use the super bright 4 smd's instead of the warm white for the GI.... like people usually go for?

I used the comet superbright bulbs.. optimus i think? But only in the slings, behind the drop targets, and behind the double rubber area on the sides. For all other GI I use 2SMD. Also the camera picks those optimus bulbs up as being way brighter than the rest but it isn’t.. in person all the light blends together and it looks great. I wish I would have done warm white for color though, these are natural.
41E38E7C-E21D-44EB-A56C-653EE791B626 (resized).jpeg

#3069 1 year ago

If I remember tonight and nobody else does before then, Ill grab a pic of my WW with cool white 4 led in the GI and spotlights. Really makes it so much brighter!

#3070 1 year ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

You realize spotlights are white light and not colored correct? Therefore they cannot be, as you like to say, "rainbow puke." Good call though on down voting people based on you not knowing what you are talking about. Congrats on being the guy to get his panties in a bunch... There is always at least one

29 years it was great to play a Whirlwind as it is with old school bulbs.
Now we are in the days to get 21 Cent LED´s from China and every "pinballenthusiast" feels like a gamedesigner while sticking cold white lightnings in the GI and horrible colors all over the pin.

I am not as stupid and dump as you believe and I also know what you mean with spotligts .. but why ?
WhiWi is **NOT** a dark game .... play an Alien and we talk about a dark game. So there is no , rely no , need for any LED in WhiWi ... nor in GI, nor in switched lamps and nor additional lamps.
Also .. no need for stadium lights .. I am over 50 yeras old, reading newspaper with glasses ... at least I wear glasses while playing pinball but still, no need for extra lightning.

So you can put in your WhiWi wehatever LED you want ... my beauty is still on bulbs like all my pins expect the ones which came with LEDs

#3071 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

29 years it was great to play a Whirlwind as it is with old school bulbs.
Now we are in the days to get 21 Cent LED´s from China and every "pinballenthusiast" feels like a gamedesigner while sticking cold white lightnings in the GI and horrible colors all over the pin.
I am not as stupid and dump as you believe and I also know what you mean with spotligts .. but why ?
WhiWi is **NOT** a dark game .... play an Alien and we talk about a dark game. So there is no , rely no , need for any LED in WhiWi ... nor in GI, nor in switched lamps and nor additional lamps.
Also .. no need for stadium lights .. I am over 50 yeras old, reading newspaper with glasses ... at least I wear glasses while playing pinball but still, no need for extra lightning.
So you can put in your WhiWi wehatever LED you want ... my beauty is still on bulbs like all my pins expect the ones which came with LEDs

Times change. Pinball machines used to have all electro mechanical components. They worked just fine so I guess we should’ve left them like that. You you have fun staying in the past.

#3072 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

29 years it was great to play a Whirlwind as it is with old school bulbs.
Now we are in the days to get 21 Cent LED´s from China and every "pinballenthusiast" feels like a gamedesigner while sticking cold white lightnings in the GI and horrible colors all over the pin.
I am not as stupid and dump as you believe and I also know what you mean with spotligts .. but why ?
WhiWi is **NOT** a dark game .... play an Alien and we talk about a dark game. So there is no , rely no , need for any LED in WhiWi ... nor in GI, nor in switched lamps and nor additional lamps.
Also .. no need for stadium lights .. I am over 50 yeras old, reading newspaper with glasses ... at least I wear glasses while playing pinball but still, no need for extra lightning.
So you can put in your WhiWi wehatever LED you want ... my beauty is still on bulbs like all my pins expect the ones which came with LEDs

What the hell is WhiWi ?! Are we all going to make up our own game abbreviations now?

#3073 1 year ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Times change. Pinball machines used to have all electro mechanical components. They worked just fine so I guess we should’ve left them like that. You you have fun staying in the past.

Yep, that why I call my machines all "old school" ... onliest point for china ledíng is the heat in comparison to bulbs .. but my machines are not 24 hours in a bar .. just for hours in the gameroom.

Quoted from yzfguy:

What the hell is WhiWi ?! Are we all going to make up our own game abbreviations now?

What is the official abbreviation ?! What is your abbreviation ? So for me WhiWi is clearly ..... and WH2O would be Whitewater.

WW Waterworld 1995 Gottlieb
WW Whirlwind 1990 Williams
WW Whitewater 1993 Williams
WW Whitewood Technical term

Other nice idea for you:

lampe (resized).jpg
#3074 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

that why I call my machines all "old school" ... onliest point for china ledíng is the heat in comparison to bulbs .. but my machines are not 24 hours in a bar .. just for hours in the gameroom.

I’m going to make my point here and be done with it. You pissed on LEDs but yet you only like incandescent. So in what world did you become the only authority on games? If you want incandescent put in incandescent. If you want LED put in LED. If you want colored GI then put it in! Who am I to judge? Who are you to judge? You clearly have your own opinion on your machines so who cares what someone else puts in their machine. I think all system 11 games need LEDs and extra spotlights. You don’t. Oh well....

#3075 1 year ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I’m going to make my point here and be done with it. You pissed on LEDs but yet you only like incandescent. So in what world did you become the only authority on games? If you want incandescent put in incandescent. If you want LED put in LED. If you want colored GI then put it in! Who am I to judge? Who are you to judge? You clearly have your own opinion on your machines so who cares what someone else puts in their machine. I think all system 11 games need LEDs and extra spotlights. You don’t. Oh well....

You're both wrong!

#3076 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

You're both wrong!

I’ll do better next time lol.

#3077 1 year ago

You guys are all idiots for not using nickel halide lamps and fiber-optics.

#3078 1 year ago

I didn't want to start an argument over a few spot lamps. Can't we all just get along with other.

#3079 1 year ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

You guys are all idiots for not using nickel halide lamps and fiber-optics.

Xenon!

#3080 1 year ago

I just used a pile of those comet and retro bulbs in a machine. I like them.

#3081 1 year ago

Are you removing the mylar even if it's in pretty decent shape? If you are removing it... is this era of game better using the freeze or heat gun method?

#3082 1 year ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Are you removing the mylar even if it's in pretty decent shape? If you are removing it... is this era of game better using the freeze or heat gun method?

I pulled all the mylar from the upper and lower playfields of a WH2O using a plastic razor blade and naptha.

Add a couple of drops of naptha, slowly work the blade under the mylar and repeat.

The naptha softens the adhesive and the blade slides nicely. It makes it easy to get all the sticky gunk off of the field.

#3083 1 year ago

After searching for nearly five years after I sold mine, I have finally rejoined the club today!

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#3084 1 year ago

Drop target decals at Marco are garbage.

For comparison, there's an older one from Marco on the right. Laminated, the right colors, right dimensions and good thickness.
IMG_20190930_082526 (resized).jpg

#3085 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Drop target decals at Marco are garbage.
For comparison, there's an older one from Marco on the right. Laminated, the right colors, right dimensions and good thickness.
[quoted image]

Absolutely agree, got Taxi decals recently and they're terrible, I can make better ones with an ink jet printer and boxing tape.

#3086 1 year ago

There was a recent post in the comments section of a facebook for sale ad, by a guy that said he was the original supplier for the WW decals (we were specifically talking about the spinner decals). He mentioned he had some NOS decals left. I was going to PM him, but by the time I went back to Facebook, the game had been sold and the posts deleted. I wonder if he had the smaller decals as well?

#3087 1 year ago

This is where it would be nice to properly recreate them, do it right, and not get threatened with a lawsuit. You could probably print out and have 200 sets die cut for $20.

#3088 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Anyone have pics of a WW with some spotlights?

Sorry, totally forgot to post the pics after I took them. Here you go. The GI is 4 smd except if your eye can see it from the playing position, then those are 2 smd frosted. The spots make a night and day difference. I may add another one up towards the top area eventually once I buy some more.

IMG_20190927_210407 (resized).jpg
#3089 1 year ago
Quoted from MMGB:

After searching for nearly five years after I sold mine, I have finally rejoined the club today!

Congrats and welcome back!

And if it makes you feel even better, the family you sold it to 5 years ago (as only their second game) still has it! In all the time since a dozen+ more have come/gone alongside, but Whirlwind ain't ever going anywhere else

WWroom (resized).jpg

#3090 1 year ago

How much of a gap do you guys have on either side of your lifting ramp? I have to adjust the screw holes in my new ramp as mine's dragging.

Is it centered?

#3091 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

How much of a gap do you guys have on either side of your lifting ramp? I have to adjust the screw holes in my new ramp as mine's dragging.
Is it centered?

Mine is pretty much centered up:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xpz2YMhd1vvcyeoB6

But as I recall, I had to kind of do some tweaking, it didn't want to line up without some harsh words being exchanged.

#3092 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

How much of a gap do you guys have on either side of your lifting ramp? I have to adjust the screw holes in my new ramp as mine's dragging.
Is it centered?

You're running into the same issues I had with the Mirco reproduction field. On the original playfield, the lift ramp was all the way to the left, almost against the bracket (from the player's perspective).

For the Mirco install, I adjusted the ramp so that it is closer to center. Additionally the lift arm was shifted slightly away from the ramp brackets. On the original, the fixed hex nut (opposite the retaining nylon lock nut) of the lift pin was rubbing against the side of the ramp bracket.

Getting this part correct, along with centering the spinning disk housing so all the disks line up correctly were the most frustrating part of the re-build.

Good luck.

IMG_7180 (resized).JPGIMG_7181 (resized).JPG
#3093 1 year ago

@goingincircles

Nice gameroom! I realized early that my first WW wasn’t going to have a chance to come back. Never thought it would be so difficult to find another in the same or better condition. I’m so happy to be back in the club; I’ve rotated out probably a dozen pins to finally get back to WW. This time I have a better appreciation for the simplicity of the rule set with regard to the difficulty of keeping the ball in control. Can’t wait to polish up the playfield, replace the rubbers and coil sleeves, crank up the back legs, and have WW kick my butt.

#3094 1 year ago

Hi guys, i am will do Theatre of magic plastics on this or next week and can do this plastics sets for whirlwind personally if somebody need it. Untitled (resized).jpg

Also i am working on other ww plastics. if you need additional plastics for this set, let me know. All plastics i am making from PETG. DM me who interested.

#3095 1 year ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

Hi guys, i am will do Theatre of magic plastics on this or next week and can do this plastics sets for whirlwind personally if somebody need it. [quoted image]
Also i am working on other ww plastics. if you need additional plastics for this set, let me know. All plastics i am making from PETG. DM me who interested.

Recieved my 4 pieces set today ! Looks good .. will check the colors within the next days !!
Thank you !!

#3096 1 year ago

Freshly cleaned, 3 new balls, all ready to go for the weekend.

20191004_124011 (resized).jpg
#3097 1 year ago

Such a great game!!!

Quoted from misterman:

Freshly cleaned, 3 new balls, all ready to go for the weekend.[quoted image]

#3098 1 year ago

Just something that I'm pondering here...

Whirlwind discs that actually grip, instead of this slippery stuff they've been selling.

Bottom left is what's currently on the machine originally from marco(slippery crap)
upper left is what marco just sent me (more slippery crap)
Upper right has slightly more grip
Lower right has a whole lot more grip

My samples are only 2" wide, so that's why the don't cover the paper completely.

I just mocked up the small disc in illustrator quick. Never did that before, so ignore any color/layout issues.

The material is washable, so it should last forever. It won't fall apart and won't damage the ball.

The most aggressive one doesn't look that bumpy in person. I think the flash caused that.

Thoughts?
IMG_20191009_195729.jpg

#3099 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just something that I'm pondering here...
Whirlwind discs that actually grip, instead of this slippery stuff they've been selling.
Bottom left is what's currently on the machine originally from marco(slippery crap)
upper left is what marco just sent me (more slippery crap)
Upper right has slightly more grip
Lower right has a whole lot more grip
My samples are only 2" wide, so that's why the don't cover the paper completely.
I just mocked up the small disc in illustrator quick. Never did that before, so ignore any color/layout issues.
The material is washable, so it should last forever. It won't fall apart and won't damage the ball.
The most aggressive one doesn't look that bumpy in person. I think the flash caused that.
Thoughts?
[quoted image]

I'm in.

#3100 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just something that I'm pondering here...
Whirlwind discs that actually grip, instead of this slippery stuff they've been selling.
Bottom left is what's currently on the machine originally from marco(slippery crap)
upper left is what marco just sent me (more slippery crap)
Upper right has slightly more grip
Lower right has a whole lot more grip
My samples are only 2" wide, so that's why the don't cover the paper completely.
I just mocked up the small disc in illustrator quick. Never did that before, so ignore any color/layout issues.
The material is washable, so it should last forever. It won't fall apart and won't damage the ball.
The most aggressive one doesn't look that bumpy in person. I think the flash caused that.
Thoughts?
[quoted image]

On the sheet is new old stock decals I purchased from the original supplier. He said it was material they patented called sun grip. Its actually kind of soft like leather and pretty bumpy. Grips the ball well.
D257AF80-F9CC-4E51-A8A6-13E6A7A6F93B (resized).jpeg

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