Now where do all the extra repro cloud plastics go? I started mixing old and new extras on this rebuild.

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Looks good to me! I also have a bunch of clouds left over after my rebuild. I might scatter them around the plastics later, not sure yet.

What bulbs do you guys use for the blinker bulbs on the backbox? Looks like they are 455s, I did an LED conversion but want to replace these as well. Do most people go LED here or use incandescents? Also which LED would go there, a regular 455 bayonet?

Great.... I have never seen cloud plastics... Now I feel like I'm missing something!

I used a combination of LED 455s from Comet. They have both fast and slow blinking. Very nice look!

I'm having an issue where my Whirlwind won't detect that the ball is in the cellar when hit into the right hand scoop. It only happens maybe 5% of the time, the rest of the time the cellar works correctly. I'm also not sure my cellar lit light is working correctly on the right as it is always lit.

There are two switches in the cellar, I would think the first switch is the one that senses that the ball came into the right scoop and the one on the left is for the cellar shot itself. Would that be correct?

Prob a flaky switch, might need an adjustment or replace? Maybe a high res. open on the wire?

Ok to follow up with my prior issue with my cellar. The yellow cellar bulb is lit constantly which it looks like the bulb is supposed to be lit at the start of the game. The game does not seem to be registering the first cellar door switch when the cellar is hit however the switch tests fine in switch edge test.

Any ideas?

I ordered a new switch from pinball life but it did not come with the diode soldered in. Can anyone tell me where to get the proper diodes for a pinball switch?

Could this be an MPU issue?

Diodes are 1N4004 or better. Buy 100s or 1000s of them at a time.

If you want to rule out a main board issue then short the pins on the board to register the switches in switch test.

Check 1J8 on MPU for ANY blue corrosion on pins and plug. If you see any, re-pin it.

Question, if the switch is registering correctly in switch test by actuating the switch how would shorting the same switch at the MPU pins rule out an MPU issue? Please excuse my electronics ignorance, I'm new to this!

Sorry. I missed the detail that the switch is registering correctly in switch test. If that's the case then it's mechanical. It might be the actuator. If you have a new switch body then take the actuator off the old body and mount the new switch. The adjust the switch so that it registers correctly when a ball rolls over it in switch test.

Awesome thanks!

Are you testing with your finger or the ball in the switch test. The ball might not be getting it low enough or its sitting cockeyed or something.

I was testing with my finger. I’m going to test with the ball tonight.

If it’s not registering with the ball is it just a matter of bending the switch leaf a little to get it to sit higher in the scoop?

Correct, if you have a leaf switch adjuster tool, you can make nice bends but testing with the ball and adjusting it so it engages.

The switch in question is a Cherry microswitch. You will need to bend the actuator.

Ok, that's what I figured, I have the leaf switch tool so will see how it goes tonight. Thanks!

The illuminati are right again! The switch was installed at an angle which was not allowing the actuator to go far enough down when the ball rolled over it to fire the switch. Readjusted the position and problem solved.

Now then, my VUK on the left cellar is having issues firing the ball out, the ball will fire up to the top of the scoop and then fall back down. I have already replaced the coil sleeve without improvement. Adjust the coil position?

Make sure you have the correct coil (strength) installed and that the coil plunger is lined up with the scoop.

Complete turd. Better off giving it to me. nice score.

Nice! Was that the one HEP was selling?

Got it sorted, coil is correct, the return spring was missing when I got it so I put one I had on there and I think the return spring I put on was a little strong. I put a slightly weaker one on and then reseated and tightened down the coil with the coil stop nice and firm on the coil. It was probably more tightening the coil down vs replacing the spring but either way no more problems!

I THINK the machine is 100% now. I played a few games and I don't see anything not working or registering now. So excited!!

I did put up my best score yet during my test games, 16.3 million!

I'm getting more bricks than seem fair out of the cellar and also the saucer under the lift ramp. Maybe the Cliffy is kicking up the ball a little to the cellar? Any tips or tricks for keeping the brick-outs to a minimum?

I’m in! Just got this today. Everything is in great shape (my first SS to go with 5 EMs and I didn’t want to start with a project).

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Looks good!

Congratulations. But please, please, please get rid of those awful colored bulbs. Go with all frosted warm whites, sunlights or a mix of the two.

I picked up one about two years ago with the same type horrendous colors, including the translite.

Comet has been contacted. Hate to have to use playing time for maintenance.

I was wondering if someone would say something, lol. I just did LEDs in my Whirlwind and just did warm whites everywhere with colored Titan rubbers. I did use blue for the Whirlwind on the backglass and some purple behind the cloud to make him stand out a little more.

Also one orange LED behind the lightning cloud in the back looks nice IMHO.

Some one always will. Not my pinball machine so who am I to tell some one else what they must do? The LEDs are not harming the pin, if anything, that will help it by the massive reduction in heat and electrical load so that is a win/win.

I'll do what I like because this is my money pit and you have fun with your money pit.

I could not agree with this post more. Your machine so do whatever you like. I like 2835 two SMD frosted white from comet in all my GI but it is all personal preference. GI bulbs take no time to change

The 2smd frosted sunlight give a cleaner white than the cool white, imho

Selling my WW Rad Cals. If anyone is interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80704

Not a Whirlwind Person, but spotted this populated playfield on Craigslist for $250 just south of D.C. Putting it here as I'm sure someone needs this stuff.

washingtondc.craigslist.org link

Just shot my very first 3-way-combo!! Woo hoo! Finally got to hear the siren. Love this game!

Bump OBO

Finally joined the club on Monday. This is a great game.

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Ok...an interesting scenario happened with my Grand Champion High Score last night. Maybe some other members can explain how this works.

Previous Grand Champ Score was 55,337,020 set on 12.9.18. When I got that score, the entering of initials timed out and initials were blank. Only the Grand Champ Score showed that Score.

Last night, had another epic game and scored 55,390,130. I entered my initials this go around, and the 55,390,130 is showing for both the Grand Champion Score AND the number one score.

The previous high score from December never showed as both the Grand Champ and the number one score. The previous Grand Champ Score is now gone completely. I thought it would drop down into the Number One Score, but it did not.

I do recall adjusting settings for the game after I set the Grand Champ Score in December, and I think I reset game scores while doing that, but did not reset the Grand Score at that time.

Does anyone know how the score settings work and has anyone else experienced this? Why is the Grand Champ and number one score the same, when previously it was not?

Any feedback is appreciated.

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Beauty! Looks dark, needs a good shop job hey!?

There are some GI lights out. LEDs have been ordered and clear titan rings.

Finally brought my project in from the garage. Time to start putting this thing back together!

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Looking to join the club if anyone has one in socal.

Having an issue with my top drop target on the 3 bank. It stopped registering at all a couple months ago which I felt was the opto so I replaced it with one from Marco. Now it registers but only intermittently. I'm thinking it's some sort of alignment issue where the tab on the actual plastic target is not always blocking the opto beam? Not sure. Any ideas?

Check for wiring, loose, cracked?

I checked the connector before but I'll check again and make sure everything is seated correctly.

Check the connectors on the inner connect board.

I have a weak cellar kick out. After I bought the game the kick out would intermittently fail to fire and require the game to be shut off and the ball removed from the cellar. I adjusted the switch and it seems to have fixed that issue. However I then started having an issue where I would hear a click but the coil didn’t seem to fire and again the ball would be stuck in the cellar.

So, I bought all new components for the kick out including a new coil and installed those. Now it fires well each time but the ball is not being kicked out forcefully enough. It will travel halfway up and then fall back down, the second kick will get it out.

All components are new so it’s not the sleeve, etc. Any ideas?

Is it properly lined up? Maybe it’s not coming out clean and straight
Most things never need a full rebuild.
Usually sleeve and plunger if it’s pounded.

Cracked header pins on the inner connect board.

Understand and agree but the issue was still going on after I replaced the sleeve and the plunger didn't look horrible. It was around $17 in parts to rebuild it all so I decided to do that.