I’m out at the moment, but looking over the schematics, it looks like the pin locations mentioned which require jumpering correlate to flipper power. I’ll fix them but I don’t think this is the issue.

J5 #2 -> J8 #8

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Trace jumped, board replaced and problem still there

Maybe you need to re-pin all your connectors or give them a close examination to make sure there’s no breaks at the wire. You did mentioned you fiddled a connector here or there and got intermittent success on the lower Playfield lights. You said you have continuity throughout board and fuses are all good. You might have a loose connection at a harness.

Thanks for your assistance JD. There’s no sign of any blackening etc on any header pins. The connectors on the interconnect board look ok, but yep, there’s possibly a break in the wire somewhere.

Might have to double check the wires coming from the transformer.

I think the intermittent success was purely coincidental as I’ve fiddled since with no change. Hmmm.

I know what your saying but I had similar problem with my early solid state. Every once in awhile I would lose power to something and I would wiggle a connector and nothing would happen. Then I would turn the machine on and off and it would be fixed. Played several games and all was fine until it would fail again probably from vibration. Once again I would wiggle harness and this time it would fix it. Even pulling the harness off and reseating it would sometimes fix it. Finally put new pins on the end of the wires and it seemed to fix the issue for good. I’m not sure if the wires were actually broke or frayed but I’m thinking my problem was that the pin connectors were just stretched open from being pulled off the board over and over and were not making good contact to the actual pins on the board. I hope you get this baby up and running. I’m jealous, I really want a whirlwind of my own badly.

Also, my tech guy said that the connector in first pic doesn’t like to play nice all the time in earlier machines for some reason. He prefers the straight pin to pin crimp connection in second pic versus the punch in connection. From your earlier pic of lower GI relay board it appears you have the latter? Can’t tell for sure. But then again he could be referring to machines older than yours

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Your tech is saying that he prefers Molex connectors over IDC connectors. I believe most if not all solid state machines came with IDC connectors for there speed in assembly.

Thanks for the clarification Grumpy as I wasn’t sure of the proper terminology. But since the IDC connection is essentially a wire being pushed thru razor blades to cut thru the insulation and make connection, is it possible that Flynnyfalcon could have a wire that broke at this point from time, vibration, heat, someone being an animal and setting it too hard, etc? And by the way, my Orr Power Play is all molex so the tech could have been referring to early solid states.

You are correct in the operation of IDC connectors, and yes there is a very good chance of a poor connection as you describe. OP says that the connectors are not discolored, well that's because the GI isn't on. If the GI was on then there would be excessive heat and discoloration. The back of the board is showing discoloration on the traces. Most of time if you're not going to run LEDs you need to replace the headers and connectors with turfcon pins and connectors. Also as far as older Bally and there .100 connectors, they are the worst of the worst and always need to be replaced.

Thanks for the info Grumpy. Always welcome learning new stuff

Sorry to be hijacking this thread... would much prefer to be reading and typing about how awesome this pin is, has already become my most played pin, simple game, great shots but just so brutal, with a heap of replayability!

But...

I replaced header pins on J6, J7 & J9, and replaced the J6 connector, all a big pain in the ass to do, and still the same problem

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I know you’ve probably already checked it but your f3 fuse looks really discolored on one end of the glass. Does it check good? Sometimes you have to pull them from the holder to test true. I haven’t read all that you’ve done so far but from a glance that’s one thing I noticed

Thanks for your thoughts JMJ, I've checked it a few times and I'm assuming it's still ok. F3 relates to the backbox GI which yes is a problem, but the lower GI is failing also at the same time which is F2. So I can only assume it means the problem is something else.

The problem has to lie in-between J6 and the transformer doesn't it. Possibly pin 3 of P3?

All fuses check fine.
F1 and F2 have the same power source.
F3 and F4 have the same power source.
J6 new header and connector.

Can anyone confirm where wires BRN/WHT BRN & GRN/WHT GRN go on the back box?

I'm assuming GRN goes to the lower segment of the backbox, which would mean along with the upper playfield GI, F3 and F4 (pin 8/9 on P6), which have the same power source work ok.

The lower GI, F2 and the upper segment of the back box F1 (pin 6/7 on P6) both share the same power source and both don't work. So most likely further upstream which is P3 pin 3. Does this sound right?

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So, are you still averse to installing the interconnect from your Taxi?

I don't have this game, so your going to have to look on the back of the insert board. Find the lamps that are working and follow it back to a brown or green wire.

Haha.... a little... but it’s getting to that point.

This would reallllllly help you narrow down the issue...

I bought a Whirlwind that was stored in a very damp basement for 12/15 years (those maniacs.. ) and I'm trying to get it up and running again.
I've got a problem with the displays: the upper one doesn't work at all, and the bottom one worked fine an hour ago but is doing weird stuff now. (see vids)
Read something about U41 that it could be damaged because of leaking batteries, but mine is fine with no damage at all.
Connector 1J10 on the CPU Board is burnt, but I believe that's not the cause of the display problems. (correct me if I'm wrong)
Does anyone have a clue what it could be or where I should look first?

Display working fine:

Display doing weird stuff:

The strobe for that digit is stuck on, that is why its so bright. It will burn out the display if you keep running it.

That's how far I come with knowing what the problem is haha, now to find the cure

There was obviously a problem here before.. Do you have 6V AC on each of the 4 upper pins wrt each lower pins on J6? One of the yellow wires has been replaced with Orange and 1 of the Yel/Wh wire has been replaced with Violet. I assume they are connected somewhere between there and the transformer before P3. I would follow them back. Are all of these connections good under the tape (Circled)?

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The strobes come from U-44. Disconnect the J-1 and J-2 connectors so not to burn the display. Then test the outputs of U-44 pins 1-11 and 13-17 with a logic probe. Note down the pin that isn't pulsing.

Thank you GRUMPY , will try!
Also found this page so I have some things to test haha http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm#cpuled

That pic shows the connector and header I just replaced. A few on here mentioned it’d be worth doing. The connector is originally daisy chained (pic attached), I have made an error with accidentally wiring in a different colour, but it is wired up 100% correct. Soldered together correctly and that tape is just heat shrink that hasn’t been shrunk yet

What you’ve mentioned is where I’m looking next, all connections between J6 and the transformer. Then if still not found, the interconnect board gets swapped out.

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So following on from my previous post, I was convinced the problem lie between the J6 on the interconnect and the transformer and sure enough I found a toasty connector. Really bloody difficult to find and get to (playfield up, squeeze between playfield and backbox... such a bad design), but sure enough it looks toast. Didn’t have a spare connector so for now I’ve just twisted them together and taped them up.

Powered back up...!!! And all the backbox lighting works!!! But the lower still doesn’t . I’m running out of ideas so when I get the chance next I’ll swap out interconnect boards.

Checked and jumped the lower relay again and nothing.

Bloody hell.

Do the tranny voltages sound right? 2x 5.8VAC ish and 2x 8.8VAC

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How many hours have you spent trying to figure this out? This has to be killing you! I assume once you get it figured out she's getting bolted to the floor until the day they bury you in it

If anyone wants to join the club:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/77776

And only $10!!!

I don't know if my logic probe just doesn't work well or if the outputs are okay, but they all seem to pulse..

Also tested R1 and R4 resistors on the power supply board and they are 41k omh instead of 39k ohm, could that cause the displayproblems?

Yeah it’s pretty frustrating ☺️, if I wasn’t playing it so much I’m sure I would have solved it by now

Good, this means the CPU is good. Problem maybe on the display driver board.

No.

Im having a problem with my Fire and since its a system 11 it should apply here also plus Grumpy lurks here and not the Fire owners thread.My flippers stop working when the game warms up.when they do I can go in the backbox and push the switch on the flipper relay up and they work again but will go back out after a few games.is this a bad relay or do you think it's something else like the relay not getting the signal?

Most likely the relay is fine, pull the cpu board and check the back of the relay for cracked solder joints.

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You can narrow down the problem to strobes 1-8 or 9-16 by disconnecting J-1 or J-2 on the display board. Once you have figured out which strobes are the problem, then check the appropriate NOR gates for pulsing on the outputs. Let me know what you find.

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Well its definitely been worked on and to my untrained eye it looks like crap

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Well I have seen better!

I'm going to take it to a friend that solders better than me and the last guy and we'll see if that corrects the problem

My Whirlwind DP playfield. Just thought I would show it and see what you guys think.

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Nice and colourful still, looks great!

Thanks

Also since you have the board out, double check 1J-19 pin 1 and 2 for cracked solder joints.

Okay I narrowed it down to J-2, if I pull that connector out of the CPU board than the display doesn't strobe anymore.
Will measure the pins and look at U45 (7402) later.
I'll keep you updated!

Edit: After I check the CPU board, I'll check the display board. (also because one of the displays is not working)

I had everything on the flipper relay and ij19 pin 1&2 reflowed.flippers seem slightly stronger but I'll have to wait for a day to play the crap out of it to see if it holds up after being played all day.

Got my Whirlwind yesterday so I can finally join this club! I've been looking for one for close to a year. Mine is more of a project, which is great since I love projects. So far I've

-Cleaned most of the PF
-Cleaned the outer cabinet
-Rebuilt the PSU - replaced all caps and HV parts.
-Installed an NVRAM
-Fixed the display (The third digit was out)

I was surprised, the third digit ended up being a bad trace, but the trace was visibly in tact. I spent maybe 30minutes to an hour testing resistors on the display board and probing traces until I found one that wasn't registering at all. The PF overall is actually pretty nice, I might one of these days pick up a Mirco, but I'm pretty happy with it. Most of today I'm going to bondo beat up portions of the cabinet and try to get a paint match for the blue. I also need to pick up a tumbler to tumble the metal pieces, some of them are pretty rough. The corners are pretty beat on the backbox, I thought about putting on some metal corner protectors. I haven't seen that done before, but it doesn't seem like a bad idea, and looks alright to me.
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Welcome to the club. You might find this helpful for a paint color:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TV12ei6xxh1H43s36

If you plan on doing playfield swap, then I would suggest to strip the cabinet, bondo/sand baby butt smooth, then new cabinet decals and paint so you have a better than new cabinet.

I know its a long shot, but if anyone has a topper in any condition, let me know. Picking up one on Wednesday and it has no topper

or better yet, go with the Radcals

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revised-rad-cals-for-many-more-wms-games

Oh awesome thank you! I found some codes from old pinside posts but the guy at Home Depot said they were too old of codes so he couldn't mix them. I took a chip off the backbox to take in for matching but I will also get that one mixed too.

How about this one? Dante has paint codes in also, maybe too old too?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-face-lift