(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,793 posts
  • 309 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by RobDutch
  • Topic is favorited by 145 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 742 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
20190414_123733 (resized).jpg
dis (resized).PNG
cracked pins (resized).jpg
4457DD3E-436E-4257-9EDA-8D78B4CF18E5 (resized).jpeg
C6F2189E-6308-45AE-8722-0BEF9A6BAF1F (resized).jpeg
E1D02626-E92D-4F1D-BCF7-67278FEA33E1 (resized).jpeg
ww2j6 (resized).PNG
Screen Shot 2019-04-09 at 12.03.59 am (resized).png
88A81271-8DC4-41D7-BFA5-53EDBCF4C99E (resized).jpeg
E1EFDA5C-8CEA-4080-8D4D-205A06A4EC43 (resized).jpeg
15C9430E-9E21-469F-866D-B4A048967A8F (resized).jpeg
37804529-4C4F-4256-80A5-6FBEAD51E9E6 (resized).jpeg
0C7C6499-8AAA-4107-A89D-3B6F17033DD3 (resized).jpeg

There are 2793 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 56.
#2451 5 months ago

Hate to do it, but I have to leave the club. I just put my very nice WW on the marketplace for $2850 OBO. I’m located in Southern California

#2452 5 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

how do you replace rivets? what kind of press?

To do it correctly, you need the "tubular rivets". I purchased a bunch from Hanson Rivet about a year ago:
https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/

5/32: TBC0805N or MS20450-C8-B5N
3/16: TBC0806N or MS20450-C8-B6N
7/32: TBC0807N or MS20450-C8-B7N
1/4: TBC0808N or MS20450-C8-B8N
9/32: TBC0809N or MS20450-C8-B9N
.133 X .312 X .032 washers: WS-0810

Those are the same chome/nickle plated brass rivets originally found in our pins. I had to call Hanson Rivet directly and give them the part numbers to place my order, wasn't able to do it over the web site. I ordered like 100 each item. I also got a tool, "HT-174" rivet clincher:

http://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174

But I've never used that tool... a friend of mine has a manual press tool that provides great control and also makes doing the rivets a 1 person job.

Doing the actual riveting itself is simple... drill out the old rivets. Get your parts stacked up and fit in your replacement rivet... you want it to just poke through, or at least I went with the shortest rivet that was longer than the stacked material. Blue tape on the head of the rivet to hold in place and protect it, so tube side of the rivet was up, put in the press and mash it down.

20181030_223318 (resized).jpg
#2453 5 months ago

Cant find switch 5647-12073-08 Ball through #3 (right) any leads?

#2454 5 months ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Cant find switch 5647-12073-08 Ball through #3 (right) any leads?

Is it just a regular microswitch? If so, get anything and pop the tab off the old one and put it on the new one.

#2455 4 months ago

Update on the switch issue. I lifted the playfield to change the switches and the first switch was getting stuck. I bent it back and it seems to have fixed the problem.

#2457 4 months ago

Over a thousand plays since I finished freshening this thing back up, everything is still running smooth. Loved this game since I was a kid. My boy loves it too.

B37682C5-08B8-4C14-843A-2584EA9C3027 (resized).jpegFB6B0495-B06D-482D-B10D-1A27EF4FD95D (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#2458 4 months ago

I put LED flashers in tonight. When I hit the left flipper, the lowest left flasher “ghosts” everytime. I have all of the OCD boards en route. Will this fix that issue, or do I have something that I need to investigate further?

#2460 4 months ago

What LED bulbs work best for the flashers in the backbox?

#2461 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

What LED bulbs work best for the flashers in the backbox?

I've been sticking with kits from Coin Taker. If you go to replace the control lamps, get the non ghosting type.

#2462 4 months ago

98 skyway tolls on ball 3 and I drain Never been that close to the end...

#2463 4 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

I've been sticking with kits from Coin Taker. If you go to replace the control lamps, get the non ghosting type.

Cointaker makes some great kits! This go around, I used the list someone posted in this thead (pretty sure) and ordered from Comet.

Just trying to figure out what the bulbs are for the flashers in backbox as they are smaller round bulbs that I haven’t experienced before.

#2464 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Cointaker makes some great kits! This go around, I used the list someone posted in this thead (pretty sure) and ordered from Comet.
Just trying to figure out what the bulbs are for the flashers in backbox as they are smaller round bulbs that I haven’t experienced before.

Are you talking about the 545 blinking bulbs?

#2465 4 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

98 skyway tolls on ball 3 and I drain Never been that close to the end...

Keep trying! The sound is neat. But not as cool as the three way combo..

I did the same thing on my buddies earth shaker 98 miles and a ball 3 drain

#2466 4 months ago
Quoted from zene10:

Are you talking about the 545 blinking bulbs?

Yes. the ball shaped ones that blink. 6 of them.

C38501B0-169F-4DE4-A5A6-3DAFE3528A19 (resized).jpeg
#2467 4 months ago

Where is best place to get plastic protectors? I bought the pinbits set, but the sling plastics are huge and stick way out from the plastic. Don’t like the way they look.

#2468 4 months ago

To cliffy or not? I have the full set of cliffy’s and the two cellar holes are very minimally worn (HUO game). Will the cliffys cause more damage than prevent? In other games, the cliffys make the shots harder to hit. What about on Whirlwind? Any playing difference?

#2469 4 months ago

Got a Whirlwind recently.

20181123_180517 (resized).jpg
#2470 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Where is best place to get plastic protectors? I bought the pinbits set, but the sling plastics are huge and stick way out from the plastic. Don’t like the way they look.

I bought the set from playfield protectors in germany and they are exactly the same size as the cpr plastics

A6A63481-89D7-46AA-B9BC-FAF370A135C9 (resized).jpeg
#2471 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

To cliffy or not? I have the full set of cliffy’s and the two cellar holes are very minimally worn (HUO game). Will the cliffys cause more damage than prevent? In other games, the cliffys make the shots harder to hit. What about on Whirlwind? Any playing difference?

I would leave them off unless the wear gets really bad personally. With that said, I had them on mine which was similar as you and although they lifted slightly, they didn't affect the ball travel (at least I never noticed a difference).

#2472 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

To cliffy or not? I have the full set of cliffy’s and the two cellar holes are very minimally worn (HUO game). Will the cliffys cause more damage than prevent? In other games, the cliffys make the shots harder to hit. What about on Whirlwind? Any playing difference?

Zero difference in gameplay for mine. I thought since there was that small raise in height it would make a difference, but no.
I needed cliffys on mine since it was a CPR replacement and the clear has chipped away at the cellar entrance. I had pics posted a ways back.

#2473 4 months ago

Ok...OCD boards for the inserts and GI. I’ve heard that the only way to replicate the fade of incandescent bulbs when changing over to LEDs is by installing the OCD boards. Now I have one of my best techs telling me not to install them...that it’s just one more thing that could cause game issues. What are pros and cons when it comes to Whirlwind?

#2474 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Ok...OCD boards for the inserts and GI. I’ve heard that the only way to replicate the fade of incandescent bulbs when changing over to LEDs is by installing the OCD boards. Now I have one of my best techs telling me not to install them...that it’s just one more thing that could cause game issues. What are pros and cons when it comes to Whirlwind?

IMO LedOcd is only needed in games that had the bulbs "fade" as a feature. Games like Hook. Not needed in Whirlwind as far as I can tell. Just use Non-Ghosting in the inserts and they look great.

#2475 4 months ago
Quoted from hailrazer:

IMO LedOcd is only needed in games that had the bulbs "fade" as a feature. Games like Hook. Not needed in Whirlwind as far as I can tell. Just use Non-Ghosting in the inserts and they look great.

I think just the fact that the LEDs instantly turn on and off is what he is talking about. Incandescents have that quick but gradual fade, that I kind of miss

#2476 4 months ago

The inserts OCD looks to be plug and play. The GI one requires a number of modifications. I’m not sure I want to start hacking on my game if the effects aren’t worth it.

#2477 4 months ago

Shop out eye candy!

05638746-75B5-4F22-8A1C-B8A924B5A04D (resized).jpeg2A10608B-BF90-46DE-91D7-203B0892FF45 (resized).jpeg2E8009F7-03C2-462F-95F2-D213EACC5AFF (resized).jpeg
#2478 4 months ago

Hoping to get back to my Whirlwind. Does anyone have a repro topper that they would want to part with?

#2479 4 months ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Keep trying! The sound is neat. But not as cool as the three way combo..
I did the same thing on my buddies earth shaker 98 miles and a ball 3 drain

I've been to the end of the road on ES several times, but never even close on WW (besides this time). Not sure why, the main ramp shot is almost identical!

#2480 4 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

I've been to the end of the road on ES several times, but never even close on WW (besides this time). Not sure why, the main ramp shot is almost identical!

Does your left flipper have ball hop? Both the original playfield and my replacement playfield, the positioning of the left flipper creates a gap on from the return lane and thus ball hop. Shots off the left flipper are hard to be consistent with.

#2481 4 months ago

Haven't spent much time on this yet. The top row of the display is out. Bottom works fine.

Anyone else seen this?

#2482 4 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Does your left flipper have ball hop? Both the original playfield and my replacement playfield, the positioning of the left flipper creates a gap on from the return lane and thus ball hop. Shots off the left flipper are hard to be consistent with.

I have a small amount on the left flipper. Tried everything to get rid of it.

#2483 4 months ago

I think Cliffy has some repro lane guides that helps reduce or eliminate ball hop here:
http://passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Moving the flipper assembly a little may help as well.

#2484 4 months ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

Haven't spent much time on this yet. The top row of the display is out. Bottom works fine.
Anyone else seen this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-score-diplay-issue-

My Earthshaker had a display issue, wasn't the ribbon cable. Resoldered the headers and that fixed my issue.

#2485 4 months ago

4A347D19-27A5-4710-B64B-449A8E7B8263 (resized).jpeg
#2486 4 months ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Does your left flipper have ball hop? Both the original playfield and my replacement playfield, the positioning of the left flipper creates a gap on from the return lane and thus ball hop. Shots off the left flipper are hard to be consistent with.

Absolutely I have left lane ball hop, frustrating!

I have put a toothpick inside the screw hole in PF to wedge the screw over a bit to eliminate, it works fantastic for a while, then slowly migrated back to original position. Hard to get into ramp rhythm when the ball hop is there.

#2487 4 months ago

That looks like a ribbon cable issue

1 week later
#2488 4 months ago

Could someone confirm the fuse value on the triac driver board mounted to the top of the head for the blower motor? My manual says 1amp but a sticker next to it says 5amp. I believe it should be 5amp (thats what was in my board before i fixed it and rebuilt the power supply). 1amp blows when storm starts, 5amp everything runs great. I didnt find anything on IPDB as an addendum for this.

Thanks!

8A7C73D4-2592-4C77-BFF8-4C7E06E22EA9 (resized).jpeg
#2489 4 months ago

5ASB = 5 Amp Slow Blow

#2490 4 months ago

So, i've been working thru a few problems on my machine and came across this green wire that has come off. I'm also having an error with the ramp lifting mechanism. Any ideas where this green wire attaches to. i'm thinking to this coil but just want to double check.
thanks

IMG_0952 (resized).JPG
#2491 4 months ago
Quoted from John_In_WI:

5ASB = 5 Amp Slow Blow

Yeah thats what it says - just the manual states 1amp so wanted to confirm what it should be...

image (resized).jpg
#2492 4 months ago
Quoted from Flip-it:

i'm thinking to this coil but just want to double check.

DO NOT connect this to a coil. It goes to a switch, most likely the switch under the coil.

#2493 4 months ago

Great advice. See which of these is missing from a switch. Note that there may be one already attached as it loops through. Likely ramp down?

72BB428E-FFF8-438A-ACF6-4B58AEE0194F (resized).jpeg

#2494 4 months ago

so when i took a closer look, it came off a standup target by the ramp. Soldered it and the ramp is moving up and down again. Hadn't played in months but managed a respectable score on my second game.

IMG_0953 (resized).JPG
#2495 3 months ago

Aright my Whirlwind just developed an issue. Both coils pull in when turned on. Is there one transistor that controls both of these coils or something? Coil 13 looked fired to me so I replaced it with a new one already. Problem coils are numbers 13 & 14

3E9F6C55-B989-4013-89E9-2AE4630B8336 (resized).jpeg

#2496 3 months ago

Should have the list in the manual. I’m dealing with same thing on my Game Show. I’m waiting for a replacement transistor from mouser. The sling locks on the second the pin is turned on.

#2497 3 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Should have the list in the manual. I’m dealing with same thing on my Game Show. I’m waiting for a replacement transistor from mouser. The sling locks on the second the pin is turned on.

Yeah as soon as you turn it on they both lock on.. I see what two transistors control these coil just think it’s strange they would both go at the same time.

#2498 3 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah as soon as you turn it on they both lock on.. I see what two transistors control these coil just think it’s strange they would both go at the same time.

Pull out your Aux power board and check your transistors and diodes on-board. If you don’t know how to test (I didn’t) just YouTube “testing a transistor” and it’ll spell it out for you. I found the bad transistor instantly.

#2499 3 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Pull out your Aux power board and check your transistors and diodes on-board. If you don’t know how to test (I didn’t) just YouTube “testing a transistor” and it’ll spell it out for you. I found the bad transistor instantly.

Switch out the power aux and put a new one in and now it’s working great. Now I’ve just got to figure out which transistor is responsible for those coils.

#2500 3 months ago

00A402A1-25D5-47D5-8427-22F0622CA334 (resized).jpeg

Full LED with LED OCD on the inserts and PDI glass installed. Also put color cliffy posts in. What a beautiful game!

986618DB-535B-471F-BCDD-2E376BCCE447 (resized).jpeg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
From: $ 16.95
$ 30.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
There are 2793 posts in this topic. You are on page 50 of 56.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside