(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,406 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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There are 5,406 posts in this topic. You are on page 48 of 109.
#2351 5 years ago
Quoted from jrivelli:

What exactly is your problem? Here is your tracking - https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction?tLabels=9405809699939207799480
You placed an order on the 19th which was a sunday. It was packed that day and picked up the 20th. We literally went as fast as we could. I don't even see an email form you checking on the status of delivery. Instead you are all over the forums trying to trash us while we packed your order same day and it was picked up the next day. Not cool.

I am glad you spoke up. This guy has been spamming all over the forums. I have had nothing but excellent customer service and great products from pinballbulbs. In fact, one time I emailed with a question and got a response within 30 minutes. Keep up the great work. Calling out people who spam for no reason makes me want to put in another order.

#2352 5 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I am glad you spoke up. This guy has been spamming all over the forums. I have had nothing but excellent customer service and great products from pinballbulbs. In fact, one time I emailed with a question and got a response within 30 minutes. Keep up the great work. Calling out people who spam for no reason makes me want to put in another order.

Thanks. Every week or more I do a search on here for "pinballbulbs" to catch any questions, usually about kits. Well I broke my eye socket so been mia till recently and saw this guy was spamming all over. Being a relatively really small business in the scheme of things makes this stuff extra frustrating since negative reviews can be very impactful and someone googling may not realize hes trolling.

#2353 5 years ago

I have used pinballbulbs kits in the past and I like what they do alot. Customer service has been top notch. Buy with confidence from them

#2354 5 years ago

Been a whirlwind owner for a year now, just ran into my first real problem. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

During startup I get the press advance for report.
once i do this I get switch 27, switch 28, switch 29 on
I tried playing to see what was on and the following occurred:
right hand slingshot stays on, coil gets real hot then blows Fuse F4 on Aux power driver board
also while this happens 3 bank drop target won't reset.
I checked the contacts on the sling shot and the aren't touching.

my thought is replace the coil ae-26-1500 or possible problem with the 3 bank target opto board C-13205-1

Any positive feedback would be appreciated.

Great Game
Truly Addicted

#2355 5 years ago

Anyone who have added the convolux mod?
Pinside thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/convoluxcom
Store options: http://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php?f=3&q=convolux%206684
It looks REALLY nice on other machines I have seen and want to add to my WW...
Any experience and color advice?
The store has no pictures of a color installed... Yellow/orange/red?

#2356 5 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it:

Any positive feedback would be appreciated.

Switches 27, 28, and 29 are the middle row of drop target switches. I'm guessing they didn't reset when the game tried to, and assumed the switches to be bad (even though it's due to a coil not resetting) and flagged them bad. If the coil DID reset them, however, and they're still marked bad, it could be a broken wire or connection at the connector that goes to the board. There's a lot of vibration, and something could've been knocked loose. I do not think you'd have to replace the whole opto assembly.

The right hand slingshot being locked on is likely due to a failed driver transistor on the CPU/Driver Board. Since you let it lock on to the point where you've blown a fuse, it may be in your best interest to replace the coil (likely overheated) once you repair the transistor on the driver board.

The switches are supposed to be open, as they only close when a ball hits them to tell the CPU to fire the slingshot.

#2357 5 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Switches 27, 28, and 29 are the middle row of drop target switches. I'm guessing they didn't reset when the game tried to, and assumed the switches to be bad (even though it's due to a coil not resetting) and flagged them bad. If the coil DID reset them, however, and they're still marked bad, it could be a broken wire or connection at the connector that goes to the board. There's a lot of vibration, and something could've been knocked loose. I do not think you'd have to replace the whole opto assembly.
The right hand slingshot being locked on is likely due to a failed driver transistor on the CPU/Driver Board. Since you let it lock on to the point where you've blown a fuse, it may be in your best interest to replace the coil (likely overheated) once you repair the transistor on the driver board.
The switches are supposed to be open, as they only close when a ball hits them to tell the CPU to fire the slingshot.

Thanks very helpful
I will check on the wiring again and see if there are any bad/loose connections. In the meantime I will order some replacement coils and transistors. I did notice a little browning on the front of the CPU board at Q63 transistor. I will look here first if and when it comes to taking off the cpu.

#2358 5 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it:

Thanks very helpful
I will check on the wiring again and see if there are any bad/loose connections. In the meantime I will order some replacement coils and transistors. I did notice a little browning on the front of the CPU board at Q63 transistor. I will look here first if and when it comes to taking off the cpu.

Test the transistor first, the pre drive transistor could have gone bad instead. I usually replace both, but I always test first.

#2359 5 years ago

Will a NTE 3.9-Ohm, 5-Watt, 5% Tolerance, Wire Wound, Power Resistor work the same as a 4-Ohm, 5-Watt, 10% Tolerance Ceramic Resistor? Trying to fix my flashers on the left side of the back box board. Nothing appears to be available w/ 10% tolerance as shown in the video. The part number he says to order shows 5%.... confusing!

What this guy says I need to order and will cost $10!
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/280-CR5-4.0-RC

What I can get in town here:
https://www.frys.com/product/471935

#2360 5 years ago

This is fine as a replacement.

#2361 5 years ago

Got a nice whirlwind I will be listing soon. Southeastern Wisconsin - PM if interested.

#2362 5 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Got a nice whirlwind I will be listening soon. Southeastern Wisconsin - PM if interested.

I like to listen to my WW also!

#2364 5 years ago

as we all know......one yellow cap has to be cut to clear the ramp........i have the LED ring for all the pops.......is there a way to cut the ring and still have it light properly?

#2365 5 years ago

I went ahead and cut the pinball life ring based on another post that I found where a comet ring was cut.........it did not work.....now ordering the comet pop bumper led inserts that fill the center of each pop bumper........should look good with the transparent colored pop bodys from Zitt

#2366 5 years ago

Request.... What coil is being used for the right side ramp lift in your Whirlwind? Can you post a clear photo?

As per the owner's manual, the Solenoid Table on page 32 states:
03A, Right Ramp Lifter, AE-24-900

On page 73, you will find:
3A, AE-24-900, Right Ramp Entry Lifter

However, on page 67 with the exploded parts diagram, the Ramp Lifting Mechanism has item #9 as AE-26-1500.

Thank you.

#2367 5 years ago

26-1500 on both mine and another I did.

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#2368 5 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Here’s mine.

[quoted image]

Finally installed the Cellar cliffys today. Fairly easy, not much to remove and re-install

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1 week later
#2369 5 years ago

So this was going to be an issue, the post with a rubber ring on it was going to extend past the edge of the ball guide, so there would be no way for the ball to loop back around to the upper right flipper. So I rigged up a "custom" post that is offset 0.200" to fix the issue.

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#2370 5 years ago

Silly, and possibly idiot question..
Could you not have bent the wireform slightly (middle to the downward left direction in the image) so that the end tip of the metal form was outside the post's rubber?

#2371 5 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Silly, and possibly idiot question..
Could you not have bent the wireform slightly (middle to the downward left direction in the image) so that the end tip of the metal form was outside the post's rubber?

Bending the ball guide would of been the same issue. There is maybe 0.5" of the ball guide past the threaded stud, so instead of a rubber post kicking the ball down, it would of a been a bent lip of the ball guide.

I figured I had 2 options.... plug the hole and drill new hole or make a new post. I figured I would cause more damage than solution by plugging and drilling so here we are.

#2372 5 years ago

Just joined the club and unfortunately mine is missing the ramp ball diverter parts, mainly looking for the part that goes in the ramp, the other parts I have found new. Any leads would be amazing.

Also looking for a used main ramp that might be a little better then the one I have.

Thanks!

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#2373 5 years ago

Hey gang -

I was working on my whirlwind and noticed that I hadn't done anything with the coin mechs, so a bit of copy and paste and photoshop yielded these. Thanks to Aurich and a ton of other folks for previous efforts, which I liberally stole. Feel free to use them as you like.

Mike

whirlwind coin door (resized).jpgwhirlwind coin door (resized).jpg
#2374 5 years ago

I recently acquired a WW and have been taking care of a few lingering issues. I think I'm down to the last one, but it's quite an elusive gremlin. If 1 or 2 balls are locked, it will kick them out at random from time to time. Sometimes it's every few games, sometimes it's several times per game. I have replaced the 3 lock switches and that didn't cure things. I also put 2 balls in the lock area and pressed every switch shared on the rows and column several times as well as combos of switches. Once during that exercise it kicked out the balls, but attempting to duplicate that failed after 15+ minutes of trying, so I don't think it's a switch issue.

Has anyone had this issue before and resolved it?

#2375 5 years ago

Are you still using the push on spade lugs that were original? I cut them off and soldered mine in and that cured that issue.

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#2376 5 years ago
Quoted from KenEberhardt:

Anyone who have added the convolux mod?
Pinside thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/convoluxcom
Store options: http://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php?f=3&q=convolux%206684
It looks REALLY nice on other machines I have seen and want to add to my WW...
Any experience and color advice?
The store has no pictures of a color installed... Yellow/orange/red?

Hey,
Did you buy these in the end?
I'm really interested in trying them out as that area of the playfield is particularly dark, any LEDs I've tried in the past seem to flicker on my System 11 games, I don't know if that is just cheap LEDs or if its something up with my PSU

#2377 5 years ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

Are you still using the push on spade lugs that were original? I cut them off and soldered mine in and that cured that issue.

Yes, but I tightened the crimp if they felt looser than I was comfortable with. But you make a great point. When I first put the switches on and used the old bent wire, one of them would not let the switch unclick. When I started the first test game the kicker fired repeatedly until I powered it off. I found the issue, and fixed it by bending the wire tab a little. If there was a flaky spade connector, I can see that being an issue. I will cut them off and solder the wires on, and cross fingers.

#2378 5 years ago
Quoted from Cathaldub:

Hey,
Did you buy these in the end?
I'm really interested in trying them out as that area of the playfield is particularly dark, any LEDs I've tried in the past seem to flicker on my System 11 games, I don't know if that is just cheap LEDs or if its something up with my PSU

Convolux not bought yet - still hope for some more feedback before choosing the color
I have dealt with LED flicker on WPC by the EPROM patch (http://emmytech.com/arcade/index.html) and have OCD LED on Stern and Sega, but have no experience with system 11 LED yet - my WW is still a LED virgin, and any advice welcome!
PS: I plan to purchase Convolux on STTNG, TZ, LOTR, RS, TOTAN and WW - and my WW is in the restoration phase, the other machines are fully equipped with LED and are just missing the final touch by the Convolux mod...

#2379 5 years ago

I know that I read it here somewhere?.......when you launch the ball is it supposed to loop under the ramp and over to the right upper flipper or is it supposed to go up the ramp and drop on the spinner?

#2380 5 years ago

It should feed the upper flipper at a full plunge.

#2381 5 years ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

Are you still using the push on spade lugs that were original? I cut them off and soldered mine in and that cured that issue.

This also fixed mine

#2382 5 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

It should feed the upper flipper at a full plunge.

If it doesn't, what should I be looking at adjusting? On a full plunge, I think mine is hitting high and rattling. On a slightly softer plunge it will make the upper loop, but because it's weaker, tends to drop down to the red pops instead of making the full orbit.

#2383 5 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

It should feed the upper flipper at a full plunge.

Yes this is what mine does. Full plunge should wrap around to the upper flipper. I've seen some go partially up the ramp which is not right.

#2384 5 years ago

The top of the right metal guide in the plunger lane is adjustable.

#2385 5 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

The top of the right metal guide in the plunger lane is adjustable.

Nice! I had no idea. I'll check it out and see if I can get it aiming correctly.

#2386 5 years ago

Adjustment here:

DSCN4627 (resized).JPGDSCN4627 (resized).JPG
#2387 5 years ago

glad to see that I was not the only one that needed this information

#2388 5 years ago

If moving from one hole to the next doesn't work, I'm guessing I will have to do a little bending.

#2389 5 years ago

The one is slotted so you "should" be able to just move it one way or the other. As you can see the other was never used on mine. I did have to tweak mine from moving from garage into house.

#2390 5 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Yes this is what mine does. Full plunge should wrap around to the upper flipper. I've seen some go partially up the ramp which is not right.

Nice call, mines out also!
Half way up ramp then rolls back down.

I’ll need to adjust also, thx for the info folks!

#2391 5 years ago

Mine changes all the time. Needs to be adjusted every few months

#2392 5 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

Mine changes all the time. Needs to be adjusted every few months

Don’t do this, but...

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#2393 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Don’t do this, but...
[quoted image]

Lol... I’ll get it going perfect every shot. Then I put the glass and lockdown on and it’s off again. I had it for a while though. It plunged through the inner loop probably half the time now.

#2394 5 years ago

Aright haven’t played my whirlwind in a while and just recently when I turned it on the display is completely out. What would cause this? I don’t think the display is bad, I checked all the connectors and nothing was loose. Weird

#2395 5 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Aright haven’t played my whirlwind in a while and just recently when I turned it on the display is completely out. What would cause this? I don’t think the display is bad, I checked all the connectors and nothing was loose. Weird

There is a .375 amp fuse for the display, isn't there? It looks super dainty, which is why I find it amusing that it is handling the highest voltage on the game.

#2396 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

There is a .375 amp fuse for the display, isn't there? It looks super dainty, which is why I find it amusing that it is handling the highest voltage on the game.

Thanks I’ll check into this later..

#2397 5 years ago

Alright F1 3/8 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it and it blew again. What could be causing this to blow? Thanks!

#2398 5 years ago

Unknown at this point. Unplug the display and then replace the fuse. Does it still pop?

#2399 5 years ago

Hey all, looking for some direction.
My ramp lift assembly broke, well, only the very bottom entrance flap broke. The actual metal broke, the plastic is ok. Can a new flap be riveted on? I don't know the way to rivet the flush style rivets, I think it's a hammer and bang it flat with those style?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-13233

I see these are out of stock, and don't know quite what to do.

Thoughts?

#2400 5 years ago

Do you have someone nearby that has a rivet press or tool? I’d be happy to cut a flap and rivet it and send it back but may be quicker to find someone local. Or reach out to Freeplay40 and see if he has any more made up so you have a new piece.

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