I planned a couple quick games to finish my beer, only turned WW on. Haha!

I also think WW is a better game than TZ--don't miss it at all.

Agree with you on this one! Don’t miss my TZ at all.

Heard this from a lot of people. Never got to put time on one.. someone trade me my WW for a few months and I'll give an honest review

WW better than TZ....bold statements!

It’s the fact that twilight zone is where flow came to die! I can see why twilight zone is a top 5 game for sure but, for my personal preference whirlwind is a much bette game.

Absence has made the heart grow fonder!

Love my Whirlwind, but miss TZ bad, especially now with the Pinsound board being available!

I made up some Whirlwind lift ramps if anyone is interested. Price is $45 plus $5 for shipping (Regular mail)

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Hello to all,
Ive recently buy a Whirlwind, i have no light on the top of the playfield, almost no flashers and no lights on the backbox..
Ive found this burned connector J7 (GI power to the insert)

Can this be the problem of all this issues!? From what ive seen on the manual this connector also have a connection to the relay board..
If someone can just unplug the connector to see it, let me know..

Thanks

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I’m out of town and cannot look at my board.

“J7” does not make sense. Is this the J127 connector?

Regardless, that connector needs to be replaced.

Here’s a good thread for WW GI issues:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-lower-gi-issue#post-4409837

Is the J7, ive check it, if someone can look at it, that would be a great help

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Apologies. I was thinking of white water. The connector will need to be replaced.

I’m on an iPhone so looking at the schematics are difficult.

Take the fuses out of their holders and check with a multimeter.

If all are good, you can check the wires directly. You’ll need to remove them from the connector and CAREFULLY touch each wire to the corresponding pin on the board header. (With Power on)

If the corresponding GI lights come on , only the connector needs to be replaced. I’d also recommend replacing the board header.

I’ll be back on Thursday and can send a picture then if you haven’t found the problem.

Honestly I’m not sure I’ve ever had a system 11 that didn’t need that portion of the interconnect board redone or had already had it done. A lot of the time the traces on the back are damaged as well from someone’s previously poor work. I would imagine all of your gi problems are on that board and it’s connectors. The plug to the left of the one in question (j9) is the power to your lower gi but I would also look at the power input (j6) as well. It’s typically fried in my experience

Ive done that, and seems that i have no changes on the GI light, so i assume that i also need to look at traces on the back of the board, no?

Ok im going to check that connectors (J9 and J6), can you test to remove that J7 and see witch G.I lights go out?

If you do have schematics, use a multimeter to look for voltage, takes away guessing if this or that takes away lighting, also, ohm out all of your fuses to make sure they are all good.

ok, im going to try it ofc

J7 only goes to the back box insert. It has nothing to do with the lights on the playfield. I believe that j9 is probably also a little suspect if you have no gi lights on the playfield. Sometimes the connectors do not look bad but the pins on the board are bad. The heat can cause cold solder on the back of the board with kills connection and therefore the power. I would check mine for you to make sure but I am in the process of moving and my whirlwind is folded up and wrapped at the moment

New member here. Great forum. I just got my first pin, a Whirlwind! It's better than I expected. My best friends in college would sell plasma, buy beer and cigarettes and spend the rest on Whirlwind. I finally got mine with minimal bloodletting involved

I like that blue display I might have to pony up $160 for one

First pin... make sure you have room for the rest of the pins you'll end up with. Now as a Whirlwind owner, expect to be asked if you also have Earthshaker when you mention Whirlwind.

Your pin looks to be in good shape, better looking then mine when I first got it.

yup

I bought disc decals and they Are no where near as grippy as the originals that was on the machine.
What is the best place to get them?

I bought mine from pinball center. They came as two parts, and the grip tap on top wasn’t the right size. And not as vibrant as the original.

I got some from Marco Pinball and they seem pretty legit.

Well, after multiple rounds of Whirlwind tonight, we decided to order our T-shirt’s

That's how the ones I bought are, got mine from Bay Area.

Thanks for the input, i will get new ones from Marco.

Ive always wanted to call that number to see what happens!

Wrapping up the cabinet work on this restore. I'll take a break for a few weeks and then begin the playfield. Hope to have this at the Grand Ole Gameroom Expo this fall.

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The full photo dump is here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tar7MyWSHoPXIImR2

Hi everyone...

I purchased a new plastic set from Bay Area Amusements (Planetary)

My set has a piece 31-1006-574-4-SP (Image 3 pictured) missing a hole.
You can even see where the hole was supposed to be punched when you shine a light thru.

Images 1 & 2 are from my original piece, which had a black plastic post and a cloud mounted on it (circled in red from the set).

Can you guys please let me know what your games look like? Include photos where possible.

On another note, how did you guys handle the black plastic posts that kind of pop into the plastics and lock? The don't appear reusable and were not included in the set.

Personally, I find this odd that he wants me to drill my plastic and that this hasn't ever come up before?

Thanks!

---------------Rick's response------------------

Hi Adam, this is rick the owner responding to your issue. I looked at the part and the blueprints (see picture from original WMS blueprint for that part) which call for only 3 holes. So, the 'correct' part has only 3 holes, and this is what all the sets are made to (note that we have been selling these for several years and yours is the first with an issue on this part regarding missing holes). We also used example sets off original games to verify the sets before production, and again, 3 holes on the ones we had.

So, what is the reason? We've been doing this a long time, and there are a few causes
a) Someone modified the game and installed an extra post (usually for ball traps, etc)
b) There were multiple variations when produced (sometimes two different producers, etc)
c) Possibly some error at Williams regarding blueprints (unlikely as we have had no other issues reported on this part).

SO, that is the background - any of the options above are more common that we would like, and creates headaches for everyone. At least in this case it is a missing hole vs an extra hole which is more of a problem.

The best solution that I can think of is to simply yourself or someone with a drill mark and drill the missing hole, as otherwise there is no good solution on this. A simple drilling of the hole will rectify the problem and it is the most simple thing to do.

Please let us know.
Thanks,
Rick

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Mine also don't have this hole. i drill it via dremel

Well it should be there, need to fix this so others don't have this problem in the future, yes?

It isn't a load bearing hole... if my plastics don't have it, I may just leave it be... you can't really see that area very well due to the ramp.
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Rick told me to drill it myself and if I ruined my plastic he would replace it.

Still doesn't change the fact that he thinks what he is selling isn't wrong. What blows me away is that the replacement plastics include the little cloud. If there isn't a hole, how are you supposed to install the replacement could you just bought? That right there tells me this set is incorrect. Plus, the protectors I bought from Marco have the hole.

I was just going to leave it, but ended up drilling a hole.. not a big deal IMO.. can't even see it either way. My set included a couple extra clouds too.

Drilling it is super easy. I had to drill that same hole on my game's new plastics. Not worth getting worked over about it.

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That is good to know--did you start small and then to size, or just drill the correct hole straight away?

I did a small punch to stop the bit from wandering, then proper size hole. Not a big deal.

very good example ! i did a little bit the same kt matches great blue and yellow

Drilling the hole is a piece of cake. Its happened on a few Funhouse repro plastics I bought awile back. I'd be more concerned that the plastics themselves aren't all true to the game if they were printed by CPR. Some of the fonts, art and color are not the same as original on the repro Whirlwind sets.

Does this happen to anyone else? Brand new blue rubber from marco. Cleaned metal with alcohol before install. Game is not in the sun or heat of any kind. Doesn't happen when playing either its just from sitting. It is still stuck super good every time I have to adjust it back.

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Can anyone take a picture of their diverter mechanism mine won’t reset after it opens up for a lock ball. Wondering what I put back together wrong.

Nvm I see I forgot a spring

Re clean both sides.

Apply a small touch of rubber cement on the pad, let I take set for about 10 mins.

Apply pad to wire form. Use a c clamp or something similar. Let it sit for 12 hours or so.

Should be good after that.

I am missing this piece but can't find it on the marco site. Would you send me a link for this product? It would be greatly appreciated!

I found it. Sorry. I was searching in Whirlwind. When i did a "blue rubber" search it was in the first page of results. I'll post if I have any problems attaching. Thanks

Hi all,

I need to buy rivets for some new ramps I bought. Does anyone know what size rivets/washers to use for the ball stops on the main ramp and for the roll over switch on the million shot ramp? Pretty sure they're 1/8" diameter oval head but not sure on the length, guessing 1/4", or what washers to use.