Had crazy time intermittent scoring issues (double skyway tolls) a few days ago.

I’ve seen similar issues on WH2O when there was a short in the switch matrix.

Turned out to be a bent switch contact close enough to the diode that would sometimes be triggered by a pop, sling or flipper.

Might be worth looking at all switches.

I had a similar problem. It flummoxed everyone. Here are the symptoms I had. I sold the machine in the end and someone else got it working. Not sure what they did to fix it. I’ll try and find out

Long shot here, but is there a decal for just the tornado on the front cabinet? I am helping my friend with one, and rest of the cabinet is in good shape, the the front right tornado/whirlwind is pretty bad.

Hello fellow Worldwinners!

I'm replacing the opto board for the 3 drop targets and am getting constant scoring when the board is mounted. I did take pictures of the original setup, but is it possible that it is sitting to "high" or close to the targets?

I bought new rubber gromets but am trying to reuse the old washers and e-clips.

Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Many thanks in advance!!

Best,

Mark

Most likely a bad opto.

Heres a cool little trick I just learned on my own. I was replacing my optos and having issues afterwards. I knew there was no way to visually see the optos working with the naked eye. I wondered if my phone would pick them up.... Sure did!

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Well, the reason I replaced the board was one opto wasn't working. With the new board that better not be the issue!

I'm totally trying this tomorrow! Thanks for the tip. Stay tuned...

If you have a new phone it might not pick it up due to UV filters I think. I grabbed the oldest camera I had, that did the trick.

Sorry... It was late and I missed that critical detail.

OK now I'm in the same boat..... Verified optos are working still reporting a switch error. Is there a way of resetting this error?

Well, I haven't verified that the optos work just yet. They better, or I got screwed buying a new board. I'll report back when I figure out their functionality.

Try my phone trick?

When I go into test mode switch edges... It just keeps cycling through all theee optos. Its like I'm hitting all three at once. Weird. Thoughts anyone? Bueller?

Sounds like a broken diode somewhere in the matrix...

Sigh.... Multimeter time! I'll let you know.

Got the switch replaced under the ramp and been playing Whirlwind like there’s no tomorrow....damn thing is kicking my arse! My other games are sitting very lonely these days....and they aren’t exactly slouches. Lol

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Nice line up! Good for you

It seems like my multiball problem has ceased with the direct soldering of the ball 2 microswitch wire

You doubted me.

NEVER!!!!!!!!!

Ok optos work. Resistors and diodes all check out. Checked all traces... Everything good. Maybe I put the optos in backwards? Thoughts?

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The game is clearing out locked balls during regular play. Not sure that we've noticed a pattern yet. Open to suggestions. Thanks.

Does it do it when 1 ball or 2 balls are locked?

I've only noticed it putting one on the table, so I'm going to guess when one ball is locked. Not saying that is 100% accurate, but is what I've noticed.

Here is what I meant in regards to a diode in the matrix. Here is the switch matrix for Whirlwind:

ww-switchmatrix (resized).jpg

I would first check switches 25, 26, and 30 and verify they register independently, i.e. only a single switch at a time registers in test.

So if I understand correctly, if you drop the lower target (closest to the flippers) all three opto switches register one after the other? If that is the case I have seen that happen when a diode on a switch in the matrix in the affected column isn't working properly. My switch matrix troubleshooting is a bit rusty, but IIRC if all three of these drop optos are registering when one goes down then it has to be something in that column.

I had a similar problem when 2 were locked and it was the #2 ball lock switch.I cut the connector and direct soldered at Grumpy's advice and it is now working fine.maybe try direct soldering your#1 switch.

I had a similar problem with locked balls releasing when they were not supposed to. I removed the slide off connectors and soldered wires directly to switches and now its fine.

thanks for the tip metahugh What i didnt realize is that the optos work in reverse logic. Meaning that they are open when the light path is broken and closed when the path is clear. After giving up and re-installing the opto board, everything worked.

Except now i have the random kickout of the locked balls when playing, guess i broke one of the switches in the lock trough. Tried to solder as recommended above, no dice. Sigh, the life of a pinballer, the work is never done...... Over to Marcos for some new switches.

Thanks again all!

Restoring my ww cabinet and trying to make warning text on backbox without silkscreening. Here is step by step process in images

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I had people over to play pins this past weekend. Whirlwind developed three issues. Two of the three are solved. Any suggestions for #3 below would be appreciated.

1. The left flipper stopped working. I recently brought back the WW from TPF and had just completed rebuilding the flippers (upgrading to the Fliptronics style).

Diagnosis: The new end of stroke switch was not making good contact. After burnishing the contacts, everything was back to normal.

2. The three spinning discs were slow, and would stop spinning when touched.

Checked: fuses were good, the motor was receiving power, and there were no cracked solder joints on the 10 Ω ceramic resistor located on the motor controller pcb. Diagnosis: both set screws (#02-4419) in the pinion gear were backed out from the shaft. See pictures below for detail of the location of the set screws. To access them, you will need to remove compass arrow circuit board lamp assembly. See pictures below.

3. Right orbit spinner not registering each rotation of the spinner.

Checked: Switch edge test working properly for the spinner.
Adjustments: I removed the switch and ran it through an ultrasonic bath with citrus based cleaner to remove out 20+ years of gunk - reinstalled and verified switch registered properly. The blade was adjusted so that the slightest rotation of the spinner target would cause the switch to register. The spinner points of contact (arms and shaft & switch blade) were lightly lubricated with spout oil.

Result: When a ball rips through the spinner, not every rotation registers as a switch hit. I am not sure if there is too much internal wear and therefore friction within the switch and/or the spinner shaft and switch blade have too much friction.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'll put a new switch on the shopping list.

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Likely you have the blades TOO close together, and a good solid hit, the CPU sees the switch 'close', but misses the quick opening of the contacts..

Thanks,
I tried a couple of combinations of blade angles bends, all with the same result. I'll try again.

Oh! Okay, didn't know that. I ran into that issue on my Meteor - I wanted the spinner to score well, and at the adjustment I had it, it would award, then freeze and jump the score until it slowed down.

How did you manage to cut out the “Warning” text for the back box? vbobrusev

Need help identifying pieces

Seems a bit better after tweaking the switch blade. Doesn't react as well as my SMVE but the processors on the games are 20 years apart. Thanks.

Need help identifying some mystery pieces left in the coin box when I purchased the game (the scale is English units, inches).

Are these parts from Whirlwind? If so, where do they belong?

Thanks.

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Don't know if they fit Whirlwind or not, but they are microswitch covers for Entropy coin doors.

Thanks Coyote !

Looks great !
Is this a plottet foil ?
Can you share the image file ?

Has anyone updated/upgraded the volume pot for their Whirlwind? The current pot is stock. I don't like it because, at the lowest setting, this sucker can still be pretty loud. I'm placing a Mouser order for some parts regarding another project (building an KT88 SE monoblock amp) and am thinking about adding a volume pot to the order for Whirlwind.

The schematics list the stock pot being 7.1Ω so I'm thinking a 25-50Ω thingie might do a better job.

I want to be able to go from silence to arcade-level loud.

Experiences?

Whirlwind Volume Pot (resized).png

You should try by-passing the resistor before ordering new parts.

Jumper (bypass) the resistor at the pot to test first (alligator clips with wire between, clipped to both sides of the resistor). If your pot is good, the volume will go to zero. If this works for you, cut and re- solder.

I ultimately removed the resistor from the circuit.

The picture below shows the resistor cut from the circuit.

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I am going to do this with mine soon, have all the parts in hand, just need to start the refurb on my WW and get it done at the same time.

Going to use the same schematic as post #20 in this thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-add-a-cheap-sub-under-40-that-sounds-awesome-to-your-wpc-game#post-2019774

Should lower the overall volume but keep some depth to it.

Ah hah! I forgot about the resistor in series with the pot. That's what I get from writing while at work and not near my pin to examine it. Thanks PinZen! I shall try that first.

When we brought this game home, the volume pot was scratchy. I opened it up to find a copper wire loosely wound around the resistor. I guess the former owner was trying to do the same thing, but never really finished the mod.

Thanks again.

I cut out the resistor too. Works good

Sorry if this has been posted but if in the market - CPR has big discount on their "seconds" backglasses due to a magenta hue in the blue.

Reg Price: $239.00 USD
Clearance Price: $139.00 USD

Can't have one without the other.

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I listed my old ramps FS. They're not perfect, but a good cheap alternative to buying a new set. Hopefully they can be of use to someone here.

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Used Whirlwind Ramp Set Archived

Used, fair condition - “One set of used Whirlwind Pinball Ramps. Smaller ramp is broken in the typical place, but IIRC hidden from sight. Subway switch covers not pictured, but included. Cat foot for scal...”

2018-04-21

Northampton, MA

nerdygrrl

75

Archived after: 3 days

Viewed: 66 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

After a lengthy delay, here is a quick video of Rock914 's LED topper for my Whirlwind!

Awesome stuff and super-easy to install.

Scroll back a few posts on here, as the topic has been covered. I was interested as well but I was talked out of it by others here. Apparently, it looks pretty janky.

Hello everyone, I just installed Game Blades on my Whirlwind. I HIGHLY suggest you use the Soapy water spray method, ESPECIALLY on system 11 games with very minimal side clearance. Just put a drop of soap in a spray bottle with water and spray the back of the Game Blade. With the playfield up, slide the Game Blade into position. The soapy water allows you to readjust over and over until you get it into position. Make sure you you spray it quite a bit because if it drys on you, it’s tougher to adjust. Honestly, this method was very easy with minimal water drips. I recommend it for all game Installs. Just wipe up any water drips with a towel and your done.

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