(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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There are 3044 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 61.
#1901 1 year ago

When I got the machine powered up it had a dim, illegible glow. A few minutes later I got the game to play but the displays were totally dark.

#1902 1 year ago

Some used Ramps and plastics on EBay. Not perfect, but I figured someone may be in need.

ebay.com link » Williams Whirlwind Ramps And Plastics Lot

#1903 1 year ago

Need some tech advice. The game I picked up is perfect in nearly every way, except one...the R RAMP UP error is present and the little red coil fires randomly during game play. There are no mechanical issues binding it up. Put in a new spring and coil sleeve. Switch tests properly during switch edge testing. All other switches work perfect. Just the little red coil that releases the ramp firing for no apparent reason. Any advice from WW tech/owners?

#1904 1 year ago

Not sure what fires it , but if it’s contact points, they are likely set to close

#1905 1 year ago

Finally got my PF stripped. What a PIA, lots of hard to access posts, locktite, intertwined harnesses. Ugh.

I debated wether doing a PF swap was worth the extra labor. Given how difficult it was just to get the top side stripped I am glad I am going the swap route. Would have sucked to have put this much energy just into shopping the old PF.

Today is all about the ultrasonic cleaner and tumbler. I will probably start buffing this weekend and then it will be time to drill.

#1906 1 year ago

Ok so to start I am a complete newbie to trouble shooting anything to speak of on my machines. Playing my whirlwind tonight and am having an issue. The super cellar door light is always on and when I shoot the ball into it, it doesn’t award the super cellar door value. Acts just like it would if the light was not on at all. Any ideas? That seems to be the only thing not working.

#1907 1 year ago

2 switches down there. One is at the eject side and the other is on the cellar side. sounds like the cellar side switch is not working. Look for broken wires. If you know how go into switch edge test and activate that switch by hand and see if it registers.

#1908 1 year ago

What is the correct part number for the spring? I got 10-148-1 but it is to wak to make the full travel.
Should I go as high as the red spring?

Edit: according to the Williams red catalogue it should be the right one. Maybe I have assembled it wrong? It has no power.
Anyone got a good picture on how to assemble it right?

#1909 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

What is the correct part number for the spring? I got 10-148-1 but it is to wak to make the full travel.
Should I go as high as the red spring?
Edit: according to the Williams red catalogue it should be the right one. Maybe I have assembled it wrong? It has no power.
Anyone got a good picture on how to assemble it right?

Make sure your shooter rod is the correct length as well, a few of my new Stern games were too short, ball wasn't resting on the plunger before you shot the ball, it was in front of the rod a bit. So the shooter rod would have to go past center before it hit the ball, making it much more weak.

#1910 1 year ago

Some times the 2 flaps of metal are bent out causing the same problem. I know I had 2 machines that I had to bend them back to 90 cause they were forward causing weak plunges.

#1911 1 year ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

2 switches down there. One is at the eject side and the other is on the cellar side. sounds like the cellar side switch is not working. Look for broken wires. If you know how go into switch edge test and activate that switch by hand and see if it registers.

I did the switch test and both cellar switches registered. Any other suggestions? Prior to this happening the cellar light would come on right after the ball was plunged. It would turn off after you shot the ball into the cellar and were awarded a value and then turn back on later in the game and repeat. Now the light is on as soon as you hit start and never goes off. The cellar functions properly with the exception of it never awarding you the super door value. I checked for loose wires and didn’t see any. I’m not getting any error messages either. No clue what it could be.

#1912 1 year ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

Some times the 2 flaps of metal are bent out causing the same problem. I know I had 2 machines that I had to bend them back to 90 cause they were forward causing weak plunges.

What flaps of metal are you talking about?

#1913 1 year ago

Question for those of you that have done PF swaps, are planning on doing them, or simply just installed new plastics, what are your thoughts on plastic protectors? Debating if I should order a set.

#1914 1 year ago

He is talking about the plunger cover on the right side of the apron cover

#1915 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Question for those of you that have done PF swaps, are planning on doing them, or simply just installed new plastics, what are your thoughts on plastic protectors? Debating if I should order a set.

Absolutely,Whirlwind machines are extra prone to broken plastics in a lot of places.When I finally got new plastics I ordered protectors from Pinbits.

#1916 1 year ago
Quoted from jhanley:

Absolutely,Whirlwind machines are extra prone to broken plastics in a lot of places.When I finally got new plastics I ordered protectors from Pinbits.

Thanks! I have heard mixed things.

#1917 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Thanks! I have heard mixed things.

Anyone who told you that plastic protectors on ANY pin was a BAD idea... is a f'n retard.

#1918 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Thanks! I have heard mixed things.

I waited for 2 to 3 years for CPR to finally make plastics and they only made extra slings.Believe me I was protecting those new ones.Before that I saw people bidding on Ebay and paying 50 bucks for ONE plastic. People with Whirlwinds were desperate.

#1919 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies. I decided to err on side of caution and grab a set of protectors.

I have my third round of metal bits in the tumbler and the pop/drop/flipper rebuilds should be done this weekend. After that it is onto the PF prep (drilling, etc). Quick question for anyone that has done a PF swap on this, do you have sequence method that you are/were happy with?

With my SoF I did the following GI->Switches->Coil/Flashers->Topside

That worked really well, but on this machine I found that many of the topside posts were hidden by underside components. So it kind of feels like those bits should get done first which feels strange.

#1920 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I'll be doing mine over the course of the next week.

Please document your swap for your fellow WW owners Like them, I'm also planning on doing a swap with my newly acquired CPR playfield.
If you film or photograph directly from above your old and new pf, your swappingorder ( 3x word value at Scrabble) can exactly be copied. And you are able to add in extra info...

#1921 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeroen:

Please document your swap for your fellow WW owners Like them, I'm also planning on doing a swap with my newly acquired CPR playfield.
If you film or photograph directly from above your old and new pf, your swappingorder ( 3x word value at Scrabble) can exactly be copied. And you are able to add in extra info...

Working on it as we speak.

Can anyone with a new CPR PF tell me if their PF is dimpled and or drilled on the topside for the wood screw sections (post, screws, etc). It appears my topside is missing all of those. I have all of the through posts, but any area with wood screws is blank. No dimple do divet, etc.

#1922 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Need some tech advice. The game I picked up is perfect in nearly every way, except one...the R RAMP UP error is present and the little red coil fires randomly during game play. There are no mechanical issues binding it up. Put in a new spring and coil sleeve. Switch tests properly during switch edge testing. All other switches work perfect. Just the little red coil that releases the ramp firing for no apparent reason. Any advice from WW tech/owners?

Did You figure this out? Had some electrical issues on mine (coils and flashers activating when switches for other coils were activated, A side and C side)and turned out to be the relay on the aux power driver board. Can discuss more if that sounds like your issue.

#1923 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Working on it as we speak.
Can anyone with a new CPR PF tell me if their PF is dimpled and or drilled on the topside for the wood screw sections (post, screws, etc). It appears my topside is missing all of those. I have all of the through posts, but any area with wood screws is blank. No dimple do divet, etc.

You missing the dimples for screws might be for placing issues where you need to slightly deviate from standards to comply with the small differences between topside parts.
I'll see if I can check my new pf any time soon to check...

#1924 1 year ago
Quoted from Jeroen:

You missing the dimples for screws might be for placing issues where you need to slightly deviate from standards to comply with the small differences between topside parts.
I'll see if I can check my new pf any time soon to check...

Yeah, I reached out to CPR for clarification. Generally their PF's have these including WW runs past.

#1925 1 year ago

A couple of folks have PM'd me and asked what I was referring to in the above post. CPR usually dimples the topside of the PF for non through and through posts and screws. The PF I got was void of any dimples. None of the areas had been marked. The only drilling on the top side was for thought and through posts AKA machine screws that either go into the t nuts on the underside or are bolted underneath with a lock nut. None of the post locations that have wood screws were marked or dimpled. I will have to create a template to mark these locations from my old PF and drill free hand.

Here is a pic from the CPR website and one of my PF. If you zoom into the CPR pic you can see that the third screw for the slings is dimpled as well as other various posts and switch locations around the PF.

I reached out to CPR and have not heard back. I would be curious if others have the same thing as me.

plaf-whirl (resized).jpg

IMG_E9487 (resized).jpg

#1926 1 year ago

I have a gold from their second (recent) run, and I have no dimples.

That pic from their site may be from their first run, though.

#1927 1 year ago

I have a Whirlwind that I replaced the play field with a CPR play field. However, I had HSA clearcoat the playfield. Fortunately, the extra clear coating has prevented me from having problems with when I drilled or over the last few years of playing it. I should note that my playfield was from the first run.

Sorry to see you're having trouble nerdygirl.

#1928 1 year ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Did You figure this out? Had some electrical issues on mine (coils and flashers activating when switches for other coils were activated, A side and C side)and turned out to be the relay on the aux power driver board. Can discuss more if that sounds like your issue.

Still haven’t solved it. I tore apart the whole assembly under the playfield..put all back together. Still doing it. It’s the little coil that fires over and over. I have noticed that the quick multiball doesn’t raise the ramp at times. Have not seen the issues like you describe. Which relay was your fix? I guess I could look there. I just haven’t had much time to dig into it lately.

#1929 1 year ago

Has anyone put LED and and LED OCD board in their WW? Impressions?

#1930 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Has anyone put LED and and LED OCD board in their WW? Impressions?

I have installed the LED OCD board and I think it is a great upgrade. Highly recommend.

#1931 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I have installed the LED OCD board and I think it is a great upgrade. Highly recommend.

Would you be able to share a gameplay vid with the LEDs and all working? Or just a vid with the game in attract mode?

#1932 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Has anyone put LED and and LED OCD board in their WW? Impressions?

Haven't seen it in a WW, but have seen other games with the board. I really like them. My board tech guy swears by them.

#1933 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I have a gold from their second (recent) run, and I have no dimples.
That pic from their site may be from their first run, though.

Thanks. I guess they didn't dimple this round. That's going to add a bit of time and stress to the swap.

Quoted from n4297m:

I have a Whirlwind that I replaced the play field with a CPR play field. However, I had HSA clearcoat the playfield. Fortunately, the extra clear coating has prevented me from having problems with when I drilled or over the last few years of playing it. I should note that my playfield was from the first run.
Sorry to see you're having trouble nerdygirl.

Eh, it's just the hiccups that come with restoration. A friend did two swaps with PF"s from last run and they were dimpled. The lack of markers is just going to make this a much slower process. It also gives me 50+ new areas to drill in and mess up my clear. I probably would have passed and had my original restored by Neo had I known.

#1934 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Has anyone put LED and and LED OCD board in their WW? Impressions?

I just finished a complete restoration and yesterday I put the OCD board in. It's awesome, makes a huge difference. I put one in TSPP a couple years ago and wasn't impressed, but in WW it's perfection.

#1935 1 year ago

Working on a recent purchase Whirlwind. I’m not much with electrical stuff. I am more of a plug and play so any basic help would be greatly appreciated.

None of the under the playfield 906 bulbs appear to be working. I’ve swapped them all out so it’s not a bulb issue.

Am I just unaware of when they should be lit? Is there one board or fuse that controls them all. The rest of the light work fine.

Thanks

#1936 1 year ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Working on a recent purchase Whirlwind. I’m not much with electrical stuff. I am more of a plug and play so any basic help would be greatly appreciated.
None of the under the playfield 906 bulbs appear to be working. I’ve swapped them all out so it’s not a bulb issue.
Am I just unaware of when they should be lit? Is there one board or fuse that controls them all. The rest of the light work fine.
Thanks

They "flash" at different points in the game. Have you run a test yet to see if they fire during test mode? Next step would be to verify that the line is plugged in?

#1937 1 year ago

Can someone give me some insights as to when the radar is supposed to be lit?

#1938 1 year ago

During multiball.

#1939 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Still haven’t solved it. I tore apart the whole assembly under the playfield..put all back together. Still doing it. It’s the little coil that fires over and over. I have noticed that the quick multiball doesn’t raise the ramp at times. Have not seen the issues like you describe. Which relay was your fix? I guess I could look there. I just haven’t had much time to dig into it lately.

Those AC relays are just for coils 1-9, the A and C coils. If you run on test mode or look in the manual you will see that during coil test you will have 1A then 1C repeat to coil 9. The relay switches between the two. This would not be your issue.

Is it intermittently firing or firing in succession, 1, 2, 3, 4...

#1940 1 year ago

I've been thinking of swapping out the yellow pops and red flasher domes with blue. I hate the way the red flashers look and thought it might be nice to try and incorporate some more blue on the PF. I really dug the Blue Moon BSD. I wouldn't go crazy with blue LED's, but just a few plastic changes. The yellow gives it a nice contrast, so I am a little hesitant that going blue may just mute everything. I would to hear everyone's thoughts.

IMG_9087 (resized).jpg

d9fd2d1bef730f578a20f0e963e89d584228c61f (resized).jpg

#1941 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I've been thinking of swapping out the yellow pops and red flasher domes with blue. I hate the way the red flashers look and thought it might be nice to try and incorporate some more blue on the PF.

Blue definitely fits the theme well, and I've seen it done before, but the game already already is washed heavily in shades of blue. Adding blue would defeat the purpose of the flash lamp's design to stand out.

I'm making a bold assumption here, but I'm going to say they chose red because it was the closest color they had to orange, which is blue's complementary color. Complementary colors make the color it's complementary to really stand out. In optics, shadows of objects sometimes to appear to contain the complementary color of the object that is casting a shadow.

If I were you, I'd try putting in orange or amber flash domes. I think doing so will give the greatest effect of flashers in the game.

#1942 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Blue definitely fits the theme well, and I've seen it done before, but the game already already is washed heavily in shades of blue. Adding blue would defeat the purpose of the flash lamp's design to stand out.
I'm making a bold assumption here, but I'm going to say they chose red because it was the closest color they had to orange, which is blue's complementary color. Complementary colors make the color it's complementary to really stand out. In optics, shadows of objects sometimes to appear to contain the complementary color of the object that is casting a shadow.
If I were you, I'd try putting in orange or amber flash domes. I think doing so will give the greatest effect of flashers in the game.

You are spot on, it's such a tough call as oranges and reds are not my fave, but do have that contrast. Maybe I will leave the pops yellow and swap the red domes out with yellow instead?

#1943 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I've been thinking of swapping out the yellow pops and red flasher domes with blue. I hate the way the red flashers look and thought it might be nice to try and incorporate some more blue on the PF. I really dug the Blue Moon BSD. I wouldn't go crazy with blue LED's, but just a few plastic changes. The yellow gives it a nice contrast, so I am a little hesitant that going blue may just mute everything. I would to hear everyone's thoughts.

I have really liked installing these pop caps over the stock williams ones. Using the Sega/Data east caps.

IMG_2709 (resized).JPG

#1944 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Maybe I will leave the pops yellow and swap the red domes out with yellow instead?

That's what I would probably do. I'm going to be doing a swap on my game soon, and I was planning on keeping both the high pressure and low pressure jets the same red and yellow colors, but change all the flasher domes to orange.

Another thing I've considered doing (but I probably wouldn't do) is keeping the high pressure jets red, but changing the low pressure jets to green--again keeping with the complementary color scheme, and matching the dichotomy of the high and low pressure zones, and also matching that green southwest target under them. Might be a neat experiment, but something tells me it would look terrible.

Ultimately, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so as long as you like the way your game looks, you can do no wrong. Let us know what you end up doing!

#1945 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Ultimately, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so as long as you like the way your game looks, you can do no wrong. Let us know what you end up doing!

Yeah, it's hard, I prefer muted, but ordered up some yellow flash domes last night to test out. It can't be any worse than the red.

On an aside I was rebuilding my drop targets last night. When I took them apart I separated all of the drop target hardware (e-clips, 7/16th flat washers, 1/2 flat washers...) Inside the bag with the drop target stuff were two flat washers measuring .62 across with a .25 interior diameter.

I don't recall these being a pat of either drop target assembly. They are not in my pics or the manual diagrams. Can anyone confirm or deny.

26913840_10155872805931271_2011356724_n (resized).jpg

#1946 1 year ago

Hey Guys, it looks like the lack of topside dimpling on the last run of Whirlwind PF's is pretty extensive. If you bought a PF, you may want to check it now to see if the topside has been dimpled. Anyway, I have been slowly making my way through this for the last week. I wrote up a step by step guide with a few different options on how to dimple. I hope it lessens the stress and makes the process a bit easier for you.

Thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nerdygrrls-guide-on-what-to-do-if-your-new-pf-isnt-dimpled

#1947 1 year ago

Hey all, which spinner assembly for WW is on marco? there is a few and I searched the spinner assembly from the manual, but don't know which one for sure, mine effin' blew up the other day! Parts came flying down the PF during gameplay

#1948 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Hey all, which spinner assembly for WW is on marco? there is a few and I searched the spinner assembly from the manual, but don't know which one for sure, mine effin' blew up the other day! Parts came flying down the PF during gameplay

Do you mean the spinner disc unit?

I hit a little snag with my repopulation. Does anyone know what sized post goes where? The pics I took with a ruler are total rubbish. Each of these little round guys is just a hair smaller than the next. Any help would be much appreciated.

IMG_9037 (1) (resized).jpg

#1949 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Do you mean the spinner disc unit?
I hit a little snag with my repopulation. Does anyone know what sized post goes where? The pics I took with a ruler are total rubbish. Each of these little round guys is just a hair smaller than the next. Any help would be much appreciated.

Yes, the spinner square with wireform from top left spinner (the only one)

#1950 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Do you mean the spinner disc unit?
I hit a little snag with my repopulation. Does anyone know what sized post goes where? The pics I took with a ruler are total rubbish. Each of these little round guys is just a hair smaller than the next. Any help would be much appreciated.

Do you mean the three tall posts that the ramp goes on in the picture?

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