Yeah that 3 way should have a million point bonus attached to it. I think I can count on my hands the number of times I have done it.

Looks fine to me. Maybe not the cleanest install, but so long as it it soldered to the lugs it's fine

Ok, similar trouble again. I don’t have a switch error anymore. My drop target will not reset at all. Not when a new game starts or during a game if you get Extra Ball, you basically cannot get one because it won’t come up.

I’ve tested voltages across pins on opti, done solenoid test and it works perfect, there was a shitty repair done on a pin on a male pin on opti, but I re-shitty repaired it, all voltages test across all pins, maybe just a bad board now? I see they are $26 to replace but out of stock on Marco.

Does the switch involved work in switch test mode? If not, look for a break in the daisy chain.

I have had that opto just go bad several times on different games. You can get them for a dollar or two at Great Plains electronics. I have a gut feeling it was just on its last legs. Test the opto in switch edge. If nothing test the continuity on the board to make sure your connections are good. Look for broken wires on the connector or cold sold on the pins. If all are good I bet the opto itself is bad

Those things have tiny lead wires and it seems that repairs made to them are always done poorly.

Can someone snap me a picture of the diverter mechanism. It's there supposed to be a spring on the coil rod? What is the default position? Thanks for any help.

Edit: I am starting to think this is not the original mech. It looks nothing like the one in the manual.

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Here is another pic.

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Yup...this is definitely a hack job. Fortunately, I found the correct parts at Action Pinball. Phew!

You are correct, but nowhere near the worst hack ive seen. Seems like a lot of effort to avoid just buying the proper inexpensive link. But i'll bet your ramp is pretty beat up where the diverter hits it. The amazing thing is how the diverter returned to home position with no spring on the plunger!

Thanks for the feedback.

I bought this machine non working so I highly doubt the diverter worked properly without the spring. Surprisingly, once I added the spring, it does work quite well. I have restored this machine to darn near new condition (lots and lots of time invested). Just a few more bugs to work out...VERY excited to start playing.

somebody have topper for sale?

I wish.

What plunger spring is used in whirlwind? The one that came in mine seems weak. It did have a data east shooter rod in it too so I'm sure the spring is wrong. I couldn't really find it in the manual. I put a red one in and it almost seems too powerful.

Red is the highest tension available. You either want silver (low) or white (med-low).

Will that be strong enough to plunge the ramp skill shot?

The skill shot is the drop targets.

The skill shot to the drops is so dangerous lately I've been doing the loop to the ramp shot and hope to hit that.

Did you use a CPR playfield in your restore? If so, how noticeable is the line in the halftone dots on the lower playfield? I have one that I'm considering swapping into my game, and I'd hate to do so, then regret it. My original playfield isn't too bad, but it does have some wear and is covered in mylar.

Sneak peek eye candy......HUO Whirlwind!

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Thanks for clarifying, that was what i meant.
What spring to go for to make it perfect?

Not sure what you are talking about. I will investigate when I get home tonight and report back. Hard to believe my OCD didn't notice that.

Crap! Sorry for pointing it out.

The insert doesn't bother me. The line does, though. I was just wondering if anyone had done anything with it or maybe if it's not as noticeable once installed.

Officially back in the club! Might be for good this time....

It’s a true HUO game. Picked it up from the daughter of an 86 year old lady who passed away recently. She bought it and Lights Camera Action brand new in 1991. Family kept that one.

Couples of questions:
1) LED?
It’s totally original. Just needs a shop job and deep cleaned. I’m a big originality guy, so it’s pretty cool in its native glow. But will the heat cause issues later?

2) cliffys?
the balls were original and dirty. Thus, there is some ever so slight in the cellar hole scoops. Should I install cliffys? Mantis doesn’t make inside hole protectors. Other option to protect? Cliffys on the switch slots? Cliffy on ramp?

3) slow drop targets
All drop targets move verrrrrry slooooww, if at all sometimes. How best to lubricate?

4) code
What is latest/best code to install?

5) other
Any other words of wisdom?

Notice the shine on the Mylar on playfield that shows the reflection of the wireform from above.

The scratch on the top of the backbox is the worst mark on the game.

When the fan blows, it smells like old lady house! Lol

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Has been a top want of mine for a while. I was pretty happy when a buddy dropped me a line about one he had come across while looking at some vintage cars. Solid player's cab. PF is in good shape with mylar, cab could use some love. I ordered up a full CPR kit, new spinner decals, rubbers, etc. It's beginning to look like Whirlwind Christmas.

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indeed it looks not so bad i will say it looks good.
welcome in the club

Thanks, yeah, it should clean up real nice. I can't wait to get started.

Has anyone done a playfield swap with the new repros? I’m getting close to doing mine and would love to see pictures of what it looks like installed!

I'll be doing mine over the course of the next week.

Does anyone have a clear playfied protector on their whirlwind? Cleaning one up right now and want to stop the wear as much as I can. Is there any issues around the spinning discs?

PM me if anyone in socal has one they would sell, serious buyer.

Can anyone who has replaced the spinner decals tell me where they got them and and how they like them? I’ve heard that someone is selling decals that are too small and the psi ones look rubbery and shiny. Would prefer the closesest to original.

Is anyone parting out a whirlwind or know someone who might be? I’m looking for the ball guide that is directly above the low pressure pops that leads to the side ramp. Whoever had mine made a dreadful and beat up replacement that is way tall and covers part of the broken ramp entrance.

I got a set from Marco haven't installed, but do seem a hair smaller and the colors seem kind of me. The texture seems ok though. I can take some measurements/pics tomorrow uninstalled

Well I went from no display to some display. I guess that is an improvement!? Replaced R1 and R4. From reading I'm assuming this is a chip issue. Any insight on narrowing it down or other things to check first? Thanks

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I haven't been following what you have done, so I could be way off base, but Is it just one segment that is missing? If so it could be a broken leg on the display. My F14 was missing the left side of a segment, opened it up and sure enough broken leg, made a bridge and boom full display.

Here are some pics I took today, I had no other options, but to go with them I feel the colors are slightly off and I think they are just a hair too small (my calipers are MIA so could not do exact measure).

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Be glad they are made at all.I waited years for plastics to be made for my Whirlwind.

Oh, I am trust me, I am. I just wish PPS would license to folks that had better quality control. Classic repros from PA does a great deal of their printing and their quality issues have been known for years.

I realize how lucky I got not only to have this cab dropped into my lap, but done so at a time when all of the parts I needed were available.

Thanks Nerdygrrl! I really think the ones you have are more true to the originals. The pdi decals just look rubbery and shiny.

Those look pretty nice.The ones I got were from Classic Arcade on Ebay and one of them was a eighth smaller.

I had two sets of these that were both ordered from Marco, albeit at different times, one set was what is shown above. The other was a light blue color. I kept the dark ones as the color was closer match but I didn’t even look at the size. Ugh. Now I’m going to have to go look. I have had all of this stuff sitting to go through my whirlwind for years but I can stop playing it long enough to tear the thing down. Maybe this summer lol

It's not a major biggie.They still look nice on my DP playfield.

The bottom half is dark and the top half is stuck on. You can see the middle changing though

Marco has them in stock now

I’m new to the forum, having just picked up a pretty beat Whirlwind project over the weekend. I think it will clean up nicely.

I have an issue that may have been discussed previously, if so I apologize for the repeat.

When i finally got it to power up the displays were dim and only partially visible. Kept working on other parts of the game and got it to play but now displays are totally dark.

I’ve reseated all the connectors, which is the limit of my capabilities without guidance. Where should I start? Any ideas and guidance greatly appreciated.

Were they dim and flickery? If so its probably the resistors.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#display