I cleaned the optos and now it's working, so hopefully that was an easy fix!

Cool. May well have been many years of crud. I suspect maybe cold solder on the optos as well. I had similar on my Earthshaker drops. Consider that if it happens again. Glad you're sorted though.

Having an issue with stand up target moving into cellar opening. I just got this pin. How can i get this target secure so it doesn't have side movement? I ordered a new one since the plastic is broken but need to understand how to secure it so it doesn't have side to side movement.

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Want to eliminate the batteries on my board. Can someone help me with finding the proper parts and instructions on how to do it? I want to go with NVRam chip? Thanks in advance.

this is a good place to start

http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Looking for a picture of how to wire the plug for the fan motor. I need to know which pins to use on the fan board and how wire the plug. I assume if you hook up the fan motor backwards it will run the opposite direction. Thanks

I have an original display that works, but has some fade on the bottom right. It's not as bright as a new one, but it works. If someone wants it, make me an offer. I have no use for it so let it go to a good home.

CHECK THE MARKETPLACE .......SOMEONE IN MEXICO IS PARTING A WHIRLWIND

Seller ended the ad so it's probably gone.

he has listed all of the boards separately and the fan topper so far.

I would totally buy that dude's partial WH20, but the shipping nightmare is so not worth it.

Today I rebuilt my left flipper and now hitting the toll way ramp is now very difficult compared to how it was before I did the rebuild on the flipper. The new flipper is now stronger making it hard to hit that ramp. Any way to make the flipper not as strong?

thunder001 , about all I can think about is to use a weaker coil. Pinball life lists the coils by strength. So could look up which coil is supposed to be used , then use the next weaker one

Just play it for a while before you make any changes. Your timing will adjust to the rebuild and you'll be nailing it again in no time.

Figured I would show my project that I purchased a couple weeks ago. Thanks to all that sold me parts that I needed to get this beast up and running. Still looking for a display and the board behind the display. I still have to fix some hacks in the wiring harness and some other small issues. This was a grail pin of mine so I'm proud that I played my first game today. Glad to be in the club!

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What display and board are you referring too? Your display appears to be working in the pics?

Only part of the display is working, missing segments on 2nd player and 4th player. The board that sits behind the display had a bunch of traces burned at one time, lot of a bad trace repairs. The board may very well be the problem with the display. I'm having some other issues with callouts that is related to the rottendog board that I installed. I can use the mpu out of taxi and everything works fine for the callouts. This may have something to do with the display also. Maybe I can find a Williams mpu and get rid of the rottendog.

I have a working display if you want it, a little faded and a little out gassing on right side, but not too bad. I have no need for it. If you want it, make me an offer.

The MPU is not causing your display issue (or vice versa), if it was, you'd have nothing on the display. Are you opposed to converting to an LED display? or are you trying to stay original? I have a minty complete original display assembly that is in perfect condition and 100% razor sharp. The going rate ive seen around here is about $100, so I would sell it for that, plus $14 for Priority Mail shipping. PM me if interested.

I don't know if you're into LED displays or not but I have the blue rottendog display in mine. Used to $150 plus shipping from Keith over at ksarcade.com I'm. It sure if they are still that price. It Eliminated the high power section on the board too. I love it.

Other posts are right it's just a bad display not the MPU. They can be fixed sometimes but to me it's never worth the headache.

Thanks for the info.

Pm sent

Does some have a link or instructions on adding a shaker motor to spinning discs? I would like to do this if someone has a parts list and instructions.

This would be interesting. I would like to have the list also

Getting ready to take on a big WW restore and joining the club. I am looking for the lift ramp for the right ramp. Part B-13233. I've searched but can't find any in stock. I'd need one with the rivets and hardware attached as pictured here: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-13233

Thanks for any help you can do

i ve bought a very nice one made by a pinsider have a glance in the before pages u will find him easily.

Get in touch with Freeplay40. He made us some awhile back. Unfortunately they may be all gone, but it's worth a try.

I make those. Info here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lift-ramp-needed

What I don't provide is the hinge on the ramp. Mine would be complete except for that hinge. So provided your hinge is good, I can help you. Mine is not only a little thicker than the original, it is made of Lexan (Polycarbonate)

There he is!! Outstanding product highly recommended!!

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Can anyone supply a picture of how the cliffy ramp protector should be installed. I have my cliffy set installed but can't figure how to install ramp protector.

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Just picked up a ramp from Freeplay40 last week. Looks great, shipped incredibly fast and packaged excellent. Do not hesitate to buy a ramp from him. What an outstanding service he provides to all of us who need this hard to find part,

he makes a really good job indeed i ve received it till France with any damages.
plus it is better than the original in quality

Im getting this message today. I'm new to this and wondering what i should do to find the problem.

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Wish I could help you. I would assume there may be a short somewhere in the switch matrix. I would start with switch 45 and work back to the board. I've never seen this before, maybe some one else will chime in.

I went through the service menu and can't find the option to run the swich check to cycle through them. Where is it? How do i access it? Thanks for your help. Newbie pin owner.

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According to the manual switch 45 is the R ramp score bot. If you can figure exactly which switch this is then you could use a volt meter to try and locate where the short is. The drawings in the manual can also show you which other switches are tied in to that same circuit. I'm not quite sure how to read the switch matrix table so I don't know if you looking for a grn-blue wire or a wht-grn wire. You may find a bare wire touching a piece of metal somewhere from rubbing or it may have come loose. I will try to narrow down exactly which switch it is on my machine here shortly.
You can also use the test buttons on the inside of the corn door to help tell you which switches are messing up. Make sure the center button is in the down state. Press the right button once to enter test mode. Press center button to release to the up position. Use the right button to cycle the test modes to switch edge test. When you manually press the switches on the playfield it show that it's registering. I included a picture of the switch matrix to show you what I see. We need someone else here that has more experience to help you better. Good luck

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Switch 45 is this switch. Start at looking at that switch and the wiring. The wiring runs the length of that ramp then goes through the playfield. Look for a loose wire or a bare wire rubbing somewhere. This should give you a start

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Do you have the manual for your game? Check out page 38. It explains the error message in greater detail.

Basically, that error indicates when there is a switch short circuited to ground. Go to a switch test; it's labeled either switch edges or switch levels. Switch Levels "scans" the matrix, and will report any closed switches. I.e. If the ball trough is full, it'll scan through all 3 switches and report them to you. Switch Edges is simpler. It simply reports only a single switch as you activate it, and does so quickly. So, again, if your ball trough is full, it'll only report the last closed switch, and not all 3.

What I'd suggest you do, is open up your settings to Switch LEVELS, and activate switch 45 (which is the bottom right ramp switch) or any other switches you might think are responsible. The faulty switch will report a "WHT-xxx ROW x SHORT" message. Visually inspect the switch to see if there's a shorted, a leaf spring touching something metal, the insulating material has been worn or punctured, or if something got knocked loose.

Keep a careful eye for other switches. Switch 45 might be a red herring, and your short may lie elsewhere in the game. Often, the slam switch on the coin door is responsible.

Thanks mbaumle for giving him a better explanation. I was hopping he had already read the manual. Hope I didn't confuse him to much.

Thanks for all the help. So i checked to make sure the switch is getting power and it seems to be getting the same amount as the same type on the ramp. I went into the switch testing tool and when i activate the switch it is not registered. Since i have power could this mean i just have a bad switch?

Short the 2 wires on the switch and see if it registers, if so, bad switch, of not, wiring issue.

Thank you that is what it is. Thank you for all your help!

Can someone maybe help me on this problem I'm having. Thanks to all

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-sound-coming-from-sound-test-on-whirlwind

Just received my game from Lermods and is beautiful. Thanks again man. Pumped to be in the club.

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Awesome, now get to work on my high score!

Hi all,

I'm having an issue where the ball is getting ejected from the trough into the shooter lane, but bouncing back into the trough. It really doesn't happen when three balls are present, but when I am down to two it sometimes happens, and once I have locked two balls, it can take so many tries to get a ball in the shooter lane that the ball search may kick on.

I checked the coil and that is correct (AE-2300-800), I replaced the coil sleeve (03-7066) and that didn't help. I played with the positioning of the coil retaining bracket when I replaced the sleeve, and no luck there. Comparing what I have to the drawing in the manual, it doesn't look like anything is missing.

The arm of the cam assembly (A-8247) looks a little worn, but nothing too bad; I will probably order a new one though. Basically, it looks like the ball is ejecting a little too high into the shooter lane and when there are no balls in the trough to act as a backstop, the ball just falls back in. Anyone run into this before? Any thing I can adjust with the assembly? Thanks!

Holy crap, you have overanalyzed the crap outta this bro! All you gotta do is adjust the deflection tab on the ball guide by bending it. Yours is very likely bent to far toward the top of the PF, the angle of it should be really close to this... Just keep bending it a tad until it deflects the ball toward the shooter everytime... That is its function!

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yup this.

Thanks theOnlyest! Looks like some idiot installed the drywall screw on the wrong side of the ball deflector. In their defense, that screw isn't in the manual (and is mssing on yours), so maybe they just didn't realize their mistake

All kidding aside, I did wonder why the f*ck someone put a drywall screw next to the shooter lane. It turns out the trough is busted at the screw mounts, so that ball deflector wiggles loose. The screw holds it in place, and it holds it closer to the proper alignment with the screw on the other side. I'll have to ask CPR to put a dimple there on my new playfield. And no, of all the things I looked at, I'm not sure why I didn't pull the apron off and look closer at the ridiculous screw.

Anyone got a spare trough?

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