(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,415 posts
  • 477 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 minutes ago by Gunner007
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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There are 5,415 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 109.
#1251 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Sorry, but that is so NOT the way to do this... you want a standard post with a #8-32 threaded stud on the bottom and a #6-32 female thread on top. Then a 2" #6-32 hex post, male on one end and female on the other. And if you want it to look exactly like the OP's pic, don't forget a #6 flat washer for on top of the rubber sleeve.

I'm going off what is offered from PL. Not what I would prefer. Or what you prefer either lol! Don't get me wrong, but I don't agree with you.

#1252 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

No, the custom "2-piece" post setup used in the OP's pic, versus the one piece full hex post the game came with originally, like yours... The sleeve is supposed to be there.

Yes, I changed the black sleeve to red. I don't see the custom "2 piece" you describe. It's multiple pieces.

#1253 7 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I'm going off what is offered from PL. Not what I would prefer. Or what you prefer either lol! Don't get me wrong, but I don't agree with you.

Suggesting someone to drill or otherwise modify their playfield unnecessarily to accommodate your obviously extremely limited knowledge of parts availability and sources is a VERY bad idea! And regardless of whether you agree with me or not, you clearly should not be giving repair advice to anyone, EVER!!! But hopefully this guy i'm just trying to help, figures that out on his own!

Now, to the guy who i'm trying to help, hopefully this very simple pic will explain what i'm talking about, and for certain others, illustrate the difference between the original ONE piece ramp support post, and the CUSTOM TWO piece ramp support post in the pic that was posted by the guy who i'm trying to help, that asked the question!!

The left "thing" is the ONE piece, hex post that was original to the game when it was manufactured, as Pat Lawlor intended.
The right "thing" is the TWO piece CUSTOM post that is in the picture that the guy i'm trying to help, POSTED! These are all the pieces you will need to replicate THAT style of ramp support post.
PLEASE NOTE that the hex posts I used in these pics are NOT the correct length, and used only for illustration purposes.

IMG_3384_(resized).JPGIMG_3384_(resized).JPG

#1254 7 years ago

I have worked on several Whirlwinds over the years, and I own a DP one with the C translite as well, and I have never seen a WW with a single hex post, they all had the two part design. Chris Hutchins has pictures of several Whirlwinds on his page, and none of them show the single post either.

#1255 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Chris Hutchins has pictures of several Whirlwinds on his page, and none of them show the single post either.

if anyone knows what's "correct", it would certainly be Chris. His photos of teardowns are like gospel.

#1256 7 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

if anyone knows what's "correct", it would certainly be Chris. His photos of teardowns are like gospel.

I use the pics on his site for reference fairly often. I am very glad he keeps them up.

#1257 7 years ago

Excellent! Thanks for your help gentlemen.

#1258 7 years ago

My Whirlwind has the long hex post with the rubber on it.

#1259 7 years ago

just got the stuff for a two piece setup from marco. 8/32 post with 6/32 stud on top and 2 inch hex post with 6/32 female thread on both ends.

#1260 7 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

My Whirlwind has the long hex post with the rubber on it.

As it should, as does mine. Ironically, in 1990 when I trained at Williams HQ to become a factory certified pinball technician, most of the training was done on a Whirlwind, and also Funhouse and BOP. But yet again, that experience and the 26 years since working on these machines has proven useless, as I clearly don't know shit... Speaking of teardowns, working on this as we speak, pics taken yesterday... Lord help me, how will I EVER get this back together?????

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#1261 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

just got the stuff for a two piece setup from marco. 8/32 post with 6/32 stud on top and 2 inch hex post with 6/32 female thread on both ends.

That'll work, good job. Just beware that the stud on that post is more "snapoffable" the longer hex you attach to it, so be careful, this was the reason I suggested the female internal threaded post, but that should work out fine for you. Good luck, wish I could have been more help.

#1262 7 years ago

anyone have a very high end restoration they are looking to part with?

PM me.

#1263 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

you clearly should not be giving repair advice to anyone, EVER!!! But hopefully this guy i'm just trying to help, figures that out on his own!

Easy now tiger. I've purchased 3 machines that were restored by dmacy and they are all gorgeous. He does phenomenal work and is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to these machines. He's went along with me to look at machines and has never steered me in the wrong direction. He's also helped me out on countless occasions nail down an issue and has never once been incorrect in his assessment of a problem.

So just because you don't agree with him, or maybe in the off chance that he made a mistake, you don't have to be a dick about it.

#1264 7 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Easy now tiger. I've purchased 3 machines that were restored by dmacy and they are all gorgeous. He does phenomenal work and is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to these machines. He's went along with me to look at machines and has never steered me in the wrong direction. He's also helped me out on countless occasions nail down an issue and has never once been incorrect in his assessment of a problem.
So just because you don't agree with him, or maybe in the off chance that he made a mistake, you don't have to be a dick about it.

It's ok, maybe I'm wrong. I have found it hard to locate these posts with 8 bottoms hence the 10 and I personally prefer PL. I like the extra meat in a post that can get direct hits by the ball from flipper. The opening is minimal and hidden but I understand some don't like to do that. Personal tastes. I was trying to post some insight in my experience on my machine is all.

#1265 7 years ago

Finally got around to taking a few pictures of my newly restored Whirlwind. This was my first restore and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. As per usual it just took way longer than I thought. Here is everything I did.

-New Gold CPR Playfield
-New Cabinet and decals from Virtuapin.net
-All NOS plastics with pinbits plastic protectors
-Cointaker LEDs
-All 3 flippers rebuilt
-new drop targets, standup targets
-all new ramps
-new spinner decals
-new white topper and fan
-new alltek powersupply and interconnect board

Here are a few pictures.

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#1266 7 years ago

Wow, gorgeous! Nice work!! Now order new skyway ramp switch covers and decals (Marco has both in stock), and it'll be almost too minty perfect to play!

#1267 7 years ago

Not sure what you are talking about. Skyway ramp switch covers? i have switch covers and decals on the sky ramp.

#1268 7 years ago

when do i pickup?

#1269 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

when do i pickup?

Haha. This one is never leaving. Plus I put way more into it that I could sell for.

#1270 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Haha. This one is never leaving. Plus I put way more into it that I could sell for.

not sure it's an addicted game plus as nice as your someone will probably able to pay the work

#1271 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Not sure what you are talking about. Skyway ramp switch covers? i have switch covers and decals on the sky ramp.

Sorry, I couldn't help but notice that a couple of the skyway ramp switch cover decals are in rough shape, you might get away with removing and replacing just the decals. Its just kindof a "finishing touch" that you missed... I'm a bit of a perfectionist, and you did a really fantastic job for a "first timer"!!

#1272 7 years ago

I actually put new switch covers and decals on. One of them got caught as I was putting the playfield in. The other one is in good condition.

#1273 7 years ago

Does anyone know how to adjust the kickout from under the right ramp? Mine comes out very hard and bounces of the wall and doesn't give me a clean feed to my flipper.

I know there is a spring on the kicker arm but I'm not sure how to make it soften the kick.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

#1274 7 years ago

Beautiful job and gives encouragement for us who will roll up sleeves for the first time.
How long did it take to get what you need including the coveted new plastics?
I'm concerned going "all in" and getting hung up -thanks!

#1275 7 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Does anyone know how to adjust the kickout from under the right ramp? Mine comes out very hard and bounces of the wall and doesn't give me a clean feed to my flipper.
I know there is a spring on the kicker arm but I'm not sure how to make it soften the kick.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.

Verify the proper coil is being used there. If so, take apart the mech and give it a good cleaning, and make sure it is aligned properly to hit the ball right.

#1276 7 years ago

I got lucky on the NOS plastics. When I bought my beater game the owner had an unopened bag in the cabinet. Offered 150 bucks and they were mine.

1 week later
#1277 7 years ago

Anyone have any plastics they would like to part with?

#1278 7 years ago

Or do yo know of a place to buy them other than Ebay?

#1279 7 years ago

.......Crickets chirp in the background

On another note, would someone mind posting a pic of their service switch inside the coin door or take a look at mine. Mine won't cycle through the menu. Can't get past music test. I would like to make sure mine is wired correctly.

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#1280 7 years ago

The chirp is the only available response. If anyone knew where to find any, they would already be gone.

#1281 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

.......Crickets chirp in the background
On another note, would someone mind posting a pic of their service switch inside the coin door or take a look at mine. Mine won't cycle through the menu. Can't get past music test. I would like to make sure mine is wired correctly.

20160817_094211_(resized).jpg20160817_094211_(resized).jpg

#1282 7 years ago

Thank you!

So looks like mine is wired up correctly. I have a new switch I could solder on. Guess I could start there?

#1283 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Thank you!
So looks like mine is wired up correctly. I have a new switch I could solder on. Guess I could start there?

Dumb question, but are you sure you're toggling the middle switch correctly to navigate the menu's?

#1284 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Dumb question, but are you sure you're toggling the middle switch correctly to navigate the menu's?

I had the same thought since it really isn't intuitive that you have to change the switch to get it past the music test. I'm sure there is some logic there but I don't want to invest the brain cycles (too few to waste) to figure it out. I just toggle and fiddle when it is "stuck" in a given test mode

#1285 7 years ago

Yeah. I read the instructions and toggled and pressed about every combo I can think of. My advance button works so maybe I'll just start by resoldering my toggle button connections.

#1286 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

Yeah. I read the instructions and toggled and pressed about every combo I can think of. My advance button works so maybe I'll just start by resoldering my toggle button connections.

Your issue is clearly with the middle switch, either user error, or switch/wiring failure. You can also test the switch by manually shorting and unshorting the 2 pins with an aligator clip and see if you can go through the programming. If not, its a wiring issue. You may also try pulling power and batteries to do a hard reset. I had a Pinbot that was doing the same thing and all the programming switches magically started working again after a RAM-clear, and have worked fine ever since.

#1287 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Your issue is clearly with the middle switch, either user error, or switch/wiring failure. You can also test the switch by manually shorting and unshorting the 2 pins with an aligator clip and see if you can go through the programming. If not, its a wiring issue. You may also try pulling power and batteries to do a hard reset. I had a Pinbot that was doing the same thing and all the programming switches magically started working again after a RAM-clear, and have worked fine ever since.

Excellent. Thanks. I'll update once I get a chance to take another look at it.

#1288 7 years ago

Jumpered the toggle switch and now I'm scrolling through menus like a boss. Problem solved. Thanks guys.

#1289 7 years ago

I hooked up a psw10 external sub and results are underwhelming. Same sub is hooked to funhouse and it's a major improvement. Is whirlwind just not really a game with an active sub? Anyone have a different experience?

#1290 7 years ago

Interesting, I was about to add a sub to WW as well. Thought it would be a great addition. I know t2 is super boomy opposed to Fishtales. Might need to match it to a different pin to get the levels right.

#1291 7 years ago

actually, my ft sounds better than my t2 with a sub. T2 sound overall is prett bad.

#1292 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I hooked up a psw10 external sub and results are underwhelming. Same sub is hooked to funhouse and it's a major improvement. Is whirlwind just not really a game with an active sub? Anyone have a different experience?

Well you are comparing a WPC and a Sys 11. Earthshaker sounds good with one, but yeah, Whirlwind isn't mind blowing

#1293 7 years ago

I had a powered computer sub hooked up to mine and it made quite a bit of difference. Not trying to sound facetious, but have you tried cranking it up? I had mine up pretty high. The "Feel the power" quote sounded awesome.

#1294 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Is whirlwind just not really a game with an active sub?

Quoted from dsuperbee:

Well you are comparing a WPC and a Sys 11.

Not only that, but the sound chip in those System 11 games is nearly identical to the sound chip found in a Sega Genesis, so it's not going to really have that great of a bass response.

#1295 7 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Not only that, but the sound chip in those System 11 games is nearly identical to the sound chip found in a Sega Genesis, so it's not going to really have that great of a bass response.

Think maybe I'll take it off ww and put it on wwfrr instead

#1296 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Think maybe I'll take it off ww and put it on wwfrr instead

I remember at the York White Rose Gameroom Show, someone brought an incredible BK2K and had it hooked up to an external sub. That thing sounded incredible. I'm not sure how they did it, but it sounded brilliant, so your quest for bass boosted goodness shouldn't be impossible.

#1297 7 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

OK so lets try to break this down into smaller problems
no voltage on F2A below or on pin 4 of J11 on aux power driver board. went upstream to W6 before the relay and have voltage there. So does this indicate a bad relay?

Screen Shot 2016-08-28 at 5.51.12 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2016-08-28 at 5.51.12 PM (resized).png

#1298 7 years ago

a separate problem seems to be that whenever the play field is lowered into normal position and powered on fuse F4 below immediately blows.

if play field is up it doesn't blow. If I lower the play field it begins to hum and the fuse will blow. Also, sporadically when I power on the machine the cellar coil locks on immediately.

#1299 7 years ago

look all around the edge of the playfield. My guess is that a coil lug is touching something it shouldn't when pf is lowered. This often happens when a coil is installed backwards with wires/lugs facing out instead of in. Have you done any work on coils recently? It's either this or the playfield is simply pinching a wire.

#1300 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

look all around the edge of the playfield. My guess is that a coil lug is touching something it shouldn't when pf is lowered. This often happens when a coil is installed backwards with wires/lugs facing out instead of in. Have you done any work on coils recently? It's either this or the playfield is simply pinching a wire.

I did recently do some work to a few coils but lugs are clear. Ground wire going from cabinet to backbox may have been getting pinched. Still don't have voltage on fuse F2A or on pins 1 and 2 of J8 on interconnect board

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