someone sell me a whirlwind already. you guys hold onto these like grim death.

Because it's such a great game! They are around, one was for sale for 2500 locally not long ago on pinside I think.

As a matter of fact, I think that 2500 one is in PA

i know the one. it sold.

Having some problems with my Whirlwind, I would be very grateful if someone has any suggestions?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-switch-row-dead

Axl

I'll never sell mine, but there's this turd... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-whirlwind-williams-1990-2002
Ive certainly seen much worse, and its overpriced, but he seems desperate and says its negotiable.

Noooo was just playing and this happened. Anyone know where you can find the plawtic piece that connect the upper ramp and the lower lift ramp. Looks like 3 bolts hold it in place? The ramp lift bolt is pretty worn as well...

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Hmm, by the looks of it, it seems liks it's already had a repair job. Not positive, but that upper ramp seems like should jut out more but looks like it had broken off at some point. Anyone have pics of the correct connection/setup?

Contact freeplay40, $45 for new one including flap and guide

Marco sells the metal lifter piece.

Is that all I need is the new flap and guide? To me it looks like the right ramp assmbly is broken as well, or was previously, and they had bolted the new guide onto it but further in... if that makes sense. And yeah just saw marco has the lifter piece gonna order that up! Thanks

I think you need a new ramp.Theirs nothing left to attach the assembly to.

That's what I'm thinking as well. So then how do you connect them? Do you have to drill the holes in the new ramp? Doesn't like like there are any. I'd hate to take a drill to a brand new ramp and risk cracking it.

Meh, back in action at least!

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Oh I hadn't seen that the mounting on the arched ramp was cracked too. I would still buy the replacement uplight ramp from freeplay. His is thicker and more likely to last.

I do make the lift ramp and it is thicker than the original as well as it's Lexan, however in your case the ramp it attaches to is busted up.

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You say turd, I say surprisingly nice condition.

Man... You guys should see the playfield on my Whirlwind. Talk about beaten to hell and back. Paint is wearing away, insert decals are faded, ripped, torn, planking, you name it. Not an inch of it is mylared. I did, however, secure it at what I thought was a fair price, but in hindsight, I'm fairly certain I overpaid. Oh well. It's a grail game of mine, and the guy was local. I've got a brand new playfield, and ramp set waiting in the wings, I just have to build a rotisserie, and convince myself I'm capable of the swap.

Lol I know the feeling man and it truly sucks. I waited four years to finally jump on one until I just couldn't take it anymore. I held out for the going price to drop on them but it just wasn't happening. I overpaid eventually, but I'm happy so it was worth it. I'll never sell it.

He states that it's clean but I see ball trails in the in lanes lol

Hey Everyone "BIG DADDY" has the LED blue displays back in stock...

Almost done. Just waiting on a few misc parts and some leds to arrive.

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My WW just started resetting and figured out it's happening when the thunder sound is triggered. Start a game, "Uh oh, looks like rain", then the thunder starts and it flashes and resets. Same in test mode when it gets to the thunder. Any ideas? Going to try and reseat the sound roms...

Edit: Went to pull the rom chip and the socket itself lifted with it... think that might be the issue...

Annnd that did NOT fix it. Tried reseating all cables and the sound roms...

CPR (http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html) has our new playfields in production...

finally....

Any idea how long it typically takes from this point?

Not really...sorry...

I ordered a backglass once including plastics for my Earthshaker and that took about two months or so.... The proces was already underway when I glanced upon it so I dont know exactly... And that was a backglass and not a playfield...

maybe some one else has more detailed info...

I hope they rerun the plastics with the playfields

Whirlwind is test cutting now and will be in production within the week

Mike

I just finished a full restore on my whirlwind and have a ton of parts for another restore if anyone is interested. Please PM if you are interested. Local pickup for the cabinet and will ship the rest. Make me an offer.
-playfield
- cabinet
- back glass with translight
-blue topper
- both plastic ramps

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i'm interested in you building me one .

@ Pmaino
PM sent

Don't

I don't think I want to do that again.

It came out awesome though, plays XtremeIO fast on a new CPR playfield.

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Ahhh, when something old becomes new again... Looks fantastic bro!

Great news, are you running plastics as well now or in future?

Beautiful job. From your experience, what was the toughest part of the project?

Beautiful job. From your experience, what was the toughest part of the project?

During the playfield swap some of the holes were off and I had to drill new ones into the playfield. Never a fun thing to do. Measure twice...drill once

Nice cards in the apron. Custom or something you buy somewhere in the net?

Does anyone have any strong opposition on what aux power driver board to choose?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-what-aux-power-board-to-buy

Axl

Playfield ordered, plastics needed CPR

www.pinballdecals.com

Just joined the club! Got it for an amazing deal from a little old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays.

One quick question. Has anyone ever purchased this pinion gear for the discs from Marco?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8343

Mine is broken, and missing one of the set screws. Does the one from Marco come with the set screws?

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A little old lady hauled a 300# pinball to church on sundays??

Has anyone used the whirlwind spinner decals from pdi? I am just asking because something was going around pinside about decals that were too small? Just want to make sure I get the good version.

i do have trouble to adjust mine from marco do not think it was too small but what is sure, any mistakes is permited

anyone know where to get the hardware pictured below with the red rubber on it? My machine doesn't have a threaded post or hex spacer at this location. I'm pretty sure the hex spacer is readily available, but I don't know the length. Also not sure where to get the post with the threaded top for mounting the hex spacer. Thanks for your help.

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im referencing the post at the bottom of the left ramp with the attached right ramp support

That is not the original setup, its custom. You can obviously do it with a sleeve post with a top stud and a hex spacer like in the pic, but the original setup is only a solid hex post all the way down to the PF, with a post sleeve rubber on it, sitting at the bottom. Obviously it has at least a 9/16" male thread at the bottom and a female tap on top. You should be able to find the part# in your manual and look it up on Marco.

Heres a pic I found on google, zoom in on that post in this pic and you'll see what I mean... This PF is 100% original, the one in your pic is a restored and modified one... and a helluva a good one too I might add!

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Do you mean the post cover is custom? If so, yes. I have the same setup on my machine as what he's referencing but with a red Cliffy post sleeve. It's a German reimport though so that may be why.

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The hex post is 2": http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358
The sleeve post (This has the #6 you need for top and #10 for the bottom. You "may" have to open up the hole for the #10: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1935

Then you just a #10 nylock nut, washer and a post sleeve of your choice. And a #6 PEMS screw and washer for the top should do what you need.

Sorry, but that is so NOT the way to do this... you want a standard post with a #8-32 threaded stud on the bottom and a #6-32 female thread on top. Then a 2" #6-32 hex post, male on one end and female on the other. And if you want it to look exactly like the OP's pic, don't forget a #6 flat washer for on top of the rubber sleeve. You could also go with ALL #8 stuff across the board, which I'm nearly positive is what was used in that pic.