(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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There are 2940 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 59.
#651 4 years ago

Per an earlier post, can someone tell me what the standard right side ramp movements are? For example, is the ramp up or down when you start a game? What action will then move it to the opposite position?

Secondly, when the ramp changes positions do the coils fire multiple times or just once? (On my game, the arm that moves the ramp up and down will fire several times, with nothing happening. I'm just trying to determine if this is normal...as in the system sends the signal multiple times to ensure it is at the proper state)

Thanks

#652 4 years ago

One coil raises the ramp and the other releases the catch to let it fall back down. They should only pop once when going either direction. And only one of them should pop.

#653 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Per an earlier post, can someone tell me what the standard right side ramp movements are? For example, is the ramp up or down when you start a game? What action will then move it to the opposite position?
Secondly, when the ramp changes positions do the coils fire multiple times or just once? (On my game, the arm that moves the ramp up and down will fire several times, with nothing happening. I'm just trying to determine if this is normal...as in the system sends the signal multiple times to ensure it is at the proper state)
Thanks

Your switch isn't working. When mine wasn't working it would continually fire the solenoid to make sure the ramp was down when a new game was started. With the glass off you could hear it, and you can see the ramp move slightly. Mine needed the switch blade adjusted. It took a few bends to get it working. It's a PITA to get that assembly apart and then re-installed.

Pull the switch out of the assembly and make sure it works in the switch edge test. If it does, put it back in the assembly and keep adjusting the switch blade until it shows activated when the arm that lowers the ramp is in the down position.

#654 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

Your switch isn't working. When mine wasn't working it would continually fire the solenoid to make sure the ramp was down when a new game was started. With the glass off you could hear it, and you can see the ramp move slightly. Mine needed the switch blade adjusted. It took a few bends to get it working. It's a PITA to get that assembly apart and then re-installed.
Pull the switch out of the assembly and make sure it works in the switch edge test. If it does, put it back in the assembly and keep adjusting the switch blade until it shows activated when the arm that lowers the ramp is in the down position.

Yeah, I've tried bending it about a dozen times and can't seem to get it. I'm thinking the tongue isn't long enough. It seems I need to have it run parallel and close to the switch, then go upwards to catch the pin on the plunger of the solenoid. However, doing that results in the pin not catching it. It appears that I should have three bends: one parallel, second rising up to catch the pin and the third parallel to the first. That having been said, for some stupid reason, I haven't done the switch edge test for that one...done it for others...not sure why I didn't think to do that. Thanks

#655 4 years ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

One coil raises the ramp and the other releases the catch to let it fall back down. They should only pop once when going either direction. And only one of them should pop.

Yeah and the fact it works properly in the coil test makes me think it has to be the switch

#656 4 years ago

It sounds like your ramp lifter switch may be busted. Mine the arm was cleanly broken off before a 45 or so degree bend that it's supposed to have and mine did the same thing.

PB resource carries em(only ones I could find), I believe the part number is W-56471200100 and as of last Dec the price was $9.04.

And since I don't think anyone else answered the questions, ramp should be down at the start of the game, then every time you hit the cellar door the ramp reverses position. then it will always come down when it's time to lock the ball for 3 ball multiball, and up for 2 ball multiball along with the 3'rd ball to initiate the 3 ball multiball. If that makes any sense.

#657 4 years ago
Quoted from FParker185:

It sounds like your ramp lifter switch may be busted. Mine the arm was cleanly broken off before a 45 or so degree bend that it's supposed to have and mine did the same thing.
PB resource carries em(only ones I could find), I believe the part number is W-56471200100 and as of last Dec the price was $9.04.
And since I don't think anyone else answered the questions, ramp should be down at the start of the game, then every time you hit the cellar door the ramp reverses position. then it will always come down when it's time to lock the ball for 3 ball multiball, and up for 2 ball multiball along with the 3'rd ball to initiate the 3 ball multiball. If that makes any sense.

Thanks. This is exactly my problem. When you look at the manual, it shows the bend in the arm. Mine lacks that, so it is just barely long enough to contact the post on plunger when fully engaged, forget about it being long enough to trigger the switch. I had looked at Marco but could not find this part, so thanks for the head's up on PB resource.

#658 4 years ago

So amusingly enough, I saw the T-Shirt promo offer on attract mode last night, which I surmise to mean my WW has the original release game ROMs. What was changed on later ROMs, and is a replacement a worthwhile upgrade? I'm just getting started with this title so it's not like I feel I'm "missing" anything per se... but I *am* curious as to what if anything is different? If it's not much for gameplay's sake, to be honest I kinda like the T-shirt ad as a nice throwback of sorts. Kinda marks this game as a true original survivor, too

#659 4 years ago

Just to close out my ramp issue. I received the switch from PBR this afternoon and, viola, everything works fine. Thanks. Interestingly enough, when I first got the machine, there was another microswitch in the bottom of the cabinet. I also found two pieces of metal, about 3/4 of an inch long and 3/16" wide. I thought 'hmm, what could these be... I wonder if they are shims for some adjustment' I kept them in case I needed them for adjustment. Well, wouldn't you know, they are the exact size as the tongue on the microswitch from the point of the bend. Makes me think I maybe ought to buy another one the next time I order some things from PBR.

Anyhow, thanks FParker185. (down to only one problem...GI lighting posted in the general tech thread. But I can at least play the game fully now)

#660 4 years ago

Miss mine. Anybody have a WW for sale in So. Cal?

#661 4 years ago

Does anyone make metal protectors for the ends of these two plastics to protect right above the targets? My WW will be on location and I just got a new plastic set. I have a feeling these will be broken within a week even if I had the pinbits plastic shields.

Screen Shot 2015-04-19 at 10.36.30 AM.png

I was thinking something like what is being sold as two-piece set by Mad Amusements to protect the boulders on Whitewater.

Screen Shot 2015-04-19 at 10.42.28 AM.png

#662 4 years ago

I've been trying to figure out an issue I have with the GI. It appears to be the 4 pin connector at the transformer for the GI wires. One of the pins is a lovely coffee color. Pretty fried to say the least. I've looked in the manual but can't seem to find part listed. Does anyone happen to know what the correct part number for this is?
Thanks

#663 4 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

Does anyone make metal protectors for the ends of these two plastics to protect right above the targets? My WW will be on location and I just got a new plastic set. I have a feeling these will be broken within a week even if I had the pinbits plastic shields.
Screen Shot 2015-04-19 at 10.36.30 AM.png (Click image to enlarge)
I was thinking something like what is being sold as two-piece set by Mad Amusements to protect the boulders on Whitewater.
Screen Shot 2015-04-19 at 10.42.28 AM.png (Click image to enlarge)

Just get the Pinbits plastic protectors for everything.WW plastics are prone to a lot of breakage.

#664 4 years ago
Quoted from jhanley:

Just get the Pinbits plastic protectors for everything.WW plastics are prone to a lot of breakage.

Even though the CPR plastics are made of PETG and are stronger, I don't think that that coupled with Pinbits plastic protectors is going to save these two from being broken. They hang out a little over the targets. I'm no machinist so I really don't have a choice but to give it a go, but I was checking here to see if anyone has done anything as drastic to save these plastics.

#665 4 years ago

Ok, I did a test print for my "realistic" version of the side decals
P1040123.JPG

Let me know if it needs more hay flying by, or more lightning strikes. Those that contacted me I'll be PM'ing for email addresses to confirm and I'll be placing an order early this week. Again, these are effectively stickers so your cabinet needs to be non-porous (cleared).

#666 4 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

Even though the CPR plastics are made of PETG and are stronger, I don't think that that coupled with Pinbits plastic protectors is going to save these two from being broken. They hang out a little over the targets. I'm no machinist so I really don't have a choice but to give it a go, but I was checking here to see if anyone has done anything as drastic to save these plastics.

I have them on mine and so far no breakage.They hang out at least a 1/4 inch .

#667 4 years ago

Dang Toyotaboy, that looks awesome! Put me down for a set...!

But, since you ask... it is actually kind of hard for me to tell what the orange stuff on the right of the image is: is that a debris field, or a contrasted afternoon light effect?

If you're going for realism, my experience storm chasing by proxy via my brother, and watching hundreds of videos, is that in general a debris cloud from a "cone" tornado is not as far out, especially at the distance implied by the scale of the wheat field in your image. At closer range, a cone might have a debris cloud seemingly attached to it. A monster Wedge-style obliterator can sometimes be hard to separate from the debris field at any range.

I'm not meaning to pick on semantics, because your image is awesome and really fits the pin well. I like the lightning strike and in fact, one of the DVD's my brother produced and sold has a very similar image (cone funnel with a bolt) on the cover. The precip wall looks awesome as well. Just thought I would share some observations, since you asked. Either way, you can count me in as a buyer.

What does the other side look like? Might be neat if it was another view, or a different storm... maybe something more "urban" to tie into the tollway ramps on that side...?

#668 4 years ago

Looks great Joe. If I'm not on the list put me on. Mike

#669 4 years ago

I have developed a ramp up down issue of my own as of last night. I started a tech thread about it but thought I would post it here as well

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-special-solenoids-blow-fuse-on-start-up

The ramp would click several times periodically for the last couple of times I played it. However last night I lost all power to the ramp up/down mechanism as well as the upper pop bumbers. It is blowing fuse F3 on the Aux Power Board on start up. I tried it with a known working power board to ensure that a bridge or other component on that board had not failed. It blew the fuse on start up there as well. I am just looking for a starting point as I cannot stand for it to not be working. Any and all help will be appreciated.

#670 4 years ago

Can you guys check your backbox speakers and see what they are, or at least confirm if mine are correct?

I was all set to do the in-cab subwoofer upgrade described on this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-add-a-cheap-sub-under-40-that-sounds-awesome-to-your-wpc-game

Everything in the instructions makes sense, based on the assumption that the BB speakers are each 4ohms. Others in that thread mentioned Sys11 with no issues.

But to my surprise, the left backbox speaker is the same 8-ohm woofer as in the cabinet! Which means I may need to replace it as well. Should have checked that first, but either way I'm wondering if it's the original one to begin with?

WWspeaker.jpg

Oh, and does anyone know what ohms that flimsy tracing-paper wafer tweeter (right speaker) is...?

#671 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Can you guys check your backbox speakers and see what they are, or at least confirm if mine are correct?

My speaker looks like yours and is 8 ohms as well.

#672 4 years ago

Thanks for checking!

What's interesting is, the manual lists it as a 4 ohm speaker. I wonder why the change or discrepancy, and if they are all this way?

#673 4 years ago

I am still looking for a little assistance on this ramp up down issue. I am getting ready to order some parts and want to make sure I order enough things. The ramp up/down coil is bad. It measures around 65 ohms across. I removed it from the game and will be replacing it for sure.

However, I am not sure on the proper readings of the relay coil beside of it. It reads 5ohms. I powered the game on with the ramp up/down coil removed and the fuse still instantly blew. How do I check this relay and is there anything else that could be causing it. I cannot see any broken wires or shorted diodes. I appreciate any help that I can get.

#674 4 years ago

OK, I have a very odd problem that comes up occasionally, let's say once every 5 games or so:

After draining a ball, the machine will kick two into the shooter lane. (FWIW, most of the time this occurs, it happens to be for the start of Ball2). This seems like a free, cheese multiball, but obviously the game thinks there should only be one in play... the scoring is as per one ball, and when the first of the cheese balls drains the game gets confused (since it only detects two in the trough); while that second ball might still score in play, you pretty much have to drain it to restore the game logic. Tellingly, it all only counts as "one" drain and Ball 3 will start as normal.

I've tried to "cause" this to happen but haven't been able to discern a pattern as to when or why or how it happens. Just every now and then it's "SURPRISE two balls in the shooter lane!" time. It's kind of amusing when it happens, as it lends its own odd gameplay challenge element to the situation, but obviously that's not right. What could cause this to happen so sporadically?

#675 4 years ago

TO ADD TO THE ABOVE: Went home for lunch to introduce a friend to the machine. Played about a dozen games, and the "surprise double shooter balls" issue only happened once: after a Ball 1 storm lock. So the "trigger" is not exclusive to a drain.

Is there a sensor for the eject kick-out I need to look at? I've noticed the kickout linkage is fairly worn (more so than on my Space Shuttle) but I can't recall what it's connected to for logic.

#676 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

OK, I have a very odd problem that comes up occasionally, let's say once every 5 games or so:
After draining a ball, the machine will kick two into the shooter lane.

Mine was randomly doing this too but it turned out to be a break in one of the metal trough pieces.

1 week later
#677 4 years ago

i need the whirlwind owners help.....i need a hi res scan of the center plastic behind the targets( the one that is always broken)......but could you send it to

Joe Kace
Laseriffic Inc.
708-650-4421
www.laseriffic.com

he is going to make me one for my machine

thanks

Mike

#678 4 years ago

is the anyone with this plastic still in one piece for scanning?

#679 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

with this plastic still in one piece for scanning?

mine is broken as well

#680 4 years ago

how's this

scan0001.jpg
#681 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Just became a member of the best system 11 machine ever produced. It is the family favorite right now!

347776-i.jpg

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Hey saw in the background a JAWS poster .... Whirlwinds cool theme because Tornado's are real and scary.. Just like Sharks. Hopefully someone eventually makes a JAWS themed pin... As I wholeheartedly agree whirlwind is the best system 11 pin & I certainly love mine... I really think JAWS could be such an epic theme / pin if done right. It's the 40th Anniversary this year and I thought it was going to happen but who knows maybe for the 50th ?

#682 4 years ago

thought for a minute there you were going for "sharknado"

#683 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

thought for a minute there you were going for "sharknado"

haha yeah not a bad combo either... that really took people by storm... see what i did there ?

saw this floating around on the net...
BpKm_7cCAAAq5Qk.jpg

but in all seriousness I really want someone to finally pay homage to JAWS !

#684 4 years ago
Quoted from mrclean:

finally pay homage to JAWS

That would be cool. There's a long list of great ideas for pinball machines. I've always thought a Scooby Doo pinball that is actually good would sell like crazy...pull in the family pin market as well as boomers etc.

#685 4 years ago

Okay, probably a Noob question... My upper flipper isn't going fully back all of a sudden. It works fine otherwise, but when I release it - it's sitting about a centimeter short of its resting position, which is causing trouble when I launch the ball and also partially obstructing the far right shot.

Does it need lubrication possibly? Or adjustment (when I open the glass it can be easily pushed back).

#686 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

My upper flipper isn't going fully back all of a sudden. It works fine otherwise, but when I release it - it's sitting about a centimeter short of its resting position

Either clean / replace the coil sleeve, or see that the return spring has enough force and isn't binding against something. In fact I would manually move it with the machine off, and see how much it resists returning under the playfield.

Or there's the possibility the flipper bat isn't set at the right angle (sometimes the nut loosens). I would also try manually pushing the flipper back all the way, then tighten down the nut.

#687 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Either clean / replace the coil sleeve, or see that the return spring has enough force and isn't binding against something. In fact I would manually move it with the machine off, and see how much it resists returning under the playfield.

Okay - thanks!

#688 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Either clean / replace the coil sleeve, or see that the return spring has enough force and isn't binding against something. In fact I would manually move it with the machine off, and see how much it resists returning under the playfield.
Or there's the possibility the flipper bat isn't set at the right angle (sometimes the nut loosens). I would also try manually pushing the flipper back all the way, then tighten down the nut.

It was the spring - easy fix. Thanks again.

#689 4 years ago

I'm in the club!

image.jpg
#690 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Does it need lubrication possibly?

As a rule of thumb nothing on a pin needs lubrication, they are made to run completely dry.

1 week later
#691 4 years ago

I'm in arrived today and its like NIB, man what a nice pin. Cost me 4K delivered but I never bought a restored older game in this quality, worth every cent. I need to change some lights to a better match for the pin but otherwise she's perfect.

DSC01733.JPG
DSC01734.JPG
DSC01735.JPG
DSC01738.JPG

#692 4 years ago
Quoted from Hazoff:

I need to change some lights to a better match for the pin but otherwise she's perfect.

I'm digging the yellow and blue

#693 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I'm digging the yellow and blue

+1

2 weeks later
#694 4 years ago

Hazoff Do you have flashing led 455 bulbs or did they just put normal leds in those sockets in the backbox?

#695 4 years ago

I am having a problem blowing the F3 fuse on the auxiliary power board. It controls the solenoid group for the upper pops and the ramp down cool. I have checked all of the coils and they are between 3.5 and 5 ohms. I have replaced the diodes. I have tried a known working auxiliary board out of my BK2K. I have checked continuity of the wires and examined the interconnect board for burnt connectors or pins. I am struggling and really want to play the game. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help.

#696 4 years ago
Quoted from Droptargets:

Hazoff Do you have flashing led 455 bulbs or did they just put normal leds in those sockets in the backbox?

I will check that out, I actually had no idea they were a different kind of bulb. If I remember they are just frosted 44's

#697 4 years ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I am having a problem blowing the F3 fuse on the auxiliary power board. It controls the solenoid group for the upper pops and the ramp down cool. I have checked all of the coils and they are between 3.5 and 5 ohms. I have replaced the diodes. I have tried a known working auxiliary board out of my BK2K. I have checked continuity of the wires and examined the interconnect board for burnt connectors or pins. I am struggling and really want to play the game. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help.

I fixed the issue. I isolated it to the left upper pop. I then checked out the tip122 transistor (q75) on the MPU. I replaced it and all is working fine again. Hopefully no one else ends up with a similar issue but maybe this will help if you do.

#698 4 years ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I fixed the issue. I isolated it to the left upper pop. I then checked out the tip122 transistor (q75) on the MPU. I replaced it and all is working fine again. Hopefully no one else ends up with a similar issue but maybe this will help if you do.

It's great that you worked this out and then followed up here to close it out. I had my schematic out and was trying to learn by following your troubleshooting but I obviously was of no use. I had a transistor for a set of controlled lamps that took me the better part of a year to a) figure out that the lamps weren't behaving properly and, b) that it traced back to a flaky transistor. Thanks again for posting!

1 week later
#699 4 years ago

Can someone take a pic of their raise/lower ramp switch?
I tried replacing the switch but still not working. The switch I got is not the same one but its very similar. I got it from frys.
Anyway, on the original switch there is a second piece with a prong and the wires and diode ran off of that and the diode ran to the switch.

#700 4 years ago

I miss you guys!! I finally got to play one in the wild the other day and put up a pretty decent score. It was nice being back with it for a bit.

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