(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,901 posts
  • 317 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by Pinball_Gizzard
  • Topic is favorited by 149 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 774 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20190710_221746 (resized).jpg
A0991078-054B-4A19-B0D0-0A64F7BF39D2 (resized).jpeg
F93A6D28-181A-4650-A5E5-98C1D564E272 (resized).jpeg
5F598813-083C-42E4-A2E4-5EBFA4469040 (resized).jpeg
CB10B11C-9E94-4452-A8F8-0F167117EEA2 (resized).jpeg
FE7B8DA1-5247-4EA5-9C2F-619E887D6431 (resized).jpeg
AB636ABB-FD96-4B09-939E-700FEE24595C (resized).jpeg
53A212A6-28B0-43D5-9244-BE1F0C74C6D8 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5837 (resized).JPG
IMG_5836 2 (resized).JPG
sQbiNvY (resized).jpg
GTNhZcN (resized).jpg
YUGa8v0 (resized).jpg
9ffrp32 (resized).jpg
fOH9mMy (resized).jpg
uni1Ogz (resized).jpg

There are 2901 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 59.
#601 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

Mine is hard, can go a few games and miss it every time. But I wouldn't say it requires a perfect shot.

Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

Mine is a tough shot too, takes a well timed flip to get it up and all the way around. Should be a tough shot for what you get rewarded with by hitting it.

Thanks for the verification guys. I have Whirlwind sitting next to my Funhouse, and it's so much easier to make the cellar shot on FH than it is to make the WW ramp. I can hit the cellar all day long and twice on Sundays!

#602 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

Believe it or not mine became more difficult "after" restoration. I'm guessing that had a lot to do with everything being newer, tighter and/or cleaner and that the game plays much faster. Trying to adjust to the new speed I find I have more trouble firing the shot earlier vs. later and I often send the ball around the inner orbit than up the ramp.

3 weeks later
#603 4 years ago

Got my new side art on today...IMG_0214.jpgIMG_0215.jpg

#604 4 years ago

Looks very nice Zip...
Especially along that Earthshaker machine...

#605 4 years ago

I just sold my Wwind (pending pickup) and have a decent cash of parts available which I will be selling.

Brand new set of ramps with decals > never installed
Pretty nice translit with minor scuffs on back
Decent but a bit yellowed cloud topper
Various old plastics in decent condition
extra wireform on right side that drops balls on spinning disks

Message me if you are looking for any of this.

I will put up an official for sale thread for these parts once the game is officially picked up and gone.

edit:
I did not expect such a huge response of messages so quickly. I will start a thread with pics and prices in a few days/ after the game officially leaves. Sorry for jumping the gun on this one by posting. I really thought there would not be a ton of interest in these parts.

2 weeks later
#606 4 years ago

Just picked up a whirlwind yesterday. My second pin (first is an EM). Anyhow, I'm pretty sure the balls were never changed nor was the playfield ever cleaned. It's incredibly dirty so I'm in the process of clearing out the playfield. I am stuck with the ramp that is on the left side and then wraps around the back. I'm sure there is some easy trick to removing it. I've removed the two screws at the end and the couple on the side. It feels like it must be held on the back side and I feel like I can feel a couple of screws. However, I have no idea if there really are a couple of screws and, most importantly, how one would be able to get to them to remove them. So, what is the secret to removing that ramp?
Thanks

#607 4 years ago

^you need to prop the pf up on the hinges or remove the pf. I think there is a total of 4 screws on the plastic ramp.

#608 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

^you need to prop the pf up on the hinges or remove the pf. I think there is a total of 4 screws on the plastic ramp.

I tried to prop up the pf but that didn't seem to allow access. Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and remove it

#609 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

I tried to prop up the pf but that didn't seem to allow access. Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and remove it

You need long arms, a beer, and the ability to swear . It's not easy but can be done. You will need to remove the Lightning plastic and the board behind it to reach

#610 4 years ago

I Don't know if this helps cause I am not at home and cant look, but try taking out the 2 screws that hold that rear cloud plastic with the flashers in it. That might give you the access to the ramp.

#611 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

You need long arms, a beer, and the ability to swear . It's not easy but can be done. You will need to remove the Lightning plastic and the board behind it to reach

I surprised I'm having difficulty with this. I have fairly long arms, am a fan of the golden elixir and while I am no match for Ralphie's father, I have been known to toss out an expletive or two or three while working on my pinball machine

#612 4 years ago
Quoted from Pugsley:

I Don't know if this helps cause I am not at home and cant look, but try taking out the 2 screws that hold that rear cloud plastic with the flashers in it. That might give you the access to the ramp.

Yeah I have that piece loosened but it doesn't seem to help much

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Yeah I have that piece loosened but it doesn't seem to help much

You gotta remove them, then angle the pf using the bracket. You should be able to reach the screws then. If worse comes to worse, remove the pf.

#614 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

This shot is supposed to be difficult. It's notorious. Try for the 3-way siren combo ending with this shot. It doesn't pay well in points but it sure does in satisfaction. Left orbit between the pops, upper flipper around the small loop, then finally the millions ramp. You'll be paid in bacon, tits and beer.

#615 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Yeah I have that piece loosened but it doesn't seem to help much

Quoted from dsuperbee:

You gotta remove them, then angle the pf using the bracket. You should be able to reach the screws then. If worse comes to worse, remove the pf.

You will have to move the pf but you don't have to remove it completely. With the pf in the up position carefully lift the pf up and off the hinge studs/bolts in the side cabinet and then set it back down with the rear of the pf brackets resting on top of the studs/bolts. When you lower the pf you will now be able to slide the pf out an extra 6-7" giving you enough access to the ramp screws. Two things to the mindful of: 1) When sliding the pf on the studs make there are no wires, switches or lamp sockets in the way (one of my g.i. sockets was very close) and 2) put a piece of foam, pillow or a couple of towels on the front of the cabinet before you set the pf down. With it slid out the extra 6-7" some of the mechs would be hitting the front of the cab so want some type of protection there.

#616 4 years ago

Dsuperbee's suggestion to prop it up did the trick. That being said, it's a lot easier to feel around and find the screws while somewhat blind than it is to reinstall when things have to be lined up right. So, I may well be using mac622's suggestion when it comes time to reinstall.

#617 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Dsuperbee's suggestion to prop it up did the trick. That being said, it's a lot easier to feel around and find the screws while somewhat blind than it is to reinstall when things have to be lined up right. So, I may well be using mac622's suggestion when it comes time to reinstall.

Honestly.....I would just pull the PF. Some of the SYS 11 games (WW and ES in particular) are VERY difficult to get things done in the back part without removing it. Besides, gives a good excuse to build/buy a rotisserie!

#618 4 years ago

Another question. The playfield is dirty as the devil. One piece of mylar (left side by the yellow jets) had some significant lifting/bubbles, so I tried the freeze it with air technique and it worked surprisingly well. The playfield underneath it looks great. It only picked up part of the decal over the 50000 insert. (In the bottom of the box was the piece of mylar that is supposed to go over the compass area. Since it was never applied, several of those directional decals have warn off, so, I know I'm going to have to get new decals regardless. Meaning...if a decal lifts, it's no big deal.)

Anyhow, since this machine seems to fall in that midpoint (i.e., per Vids restoration thread, 90's and beyond go for it...pre 90's try at your own risk), I'm not sure if I should go ahead and try to remove the rest of the mylar or not. I'm guessing several of you have had this same dilemma. What did you do?

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

I'm guessing several of you have had this same dilemma. What did you do?

Not to be hyper-critical, but the artwork over the inserts was silkscreened on with the rest of the paint, they aren't decals.

What are you plans for the playfield? I would plan on a lot of the artwork over the inserts to come off with the mylar. If you are buying a decal set, it will include all of the artwork for the inserts. If you don't plan on clear coating the playfield, make sure your decal set already has the mylar. If you are planning on clear coating it, I would make water slide decals. You could by a decals set and scan those in to make your decals.

If you have bubbled mylar over inserts, I'd bet that paint is going to come up with the mylar.

#620 4 years ago

Interestingly, (or maybe this is the norm), all of the bubbles appear over the inserts. (There are also a couple of edges that are coming up.) I don't plan on clearcoating. The playfield appears to be in really good shape, so I am confident I would end up making things worse. Thanks for the info on the decals, as I was thinking a decal is a decal and was actually wondering if they were waterslide. So, can I infer you are recommending to leave it as it is and only attack it if, after cleaning, it looks like crap. Related to this, as I mentioned many of the directional arrows on the compass have worn away in whole or in part. Is there a best way to remove the residual bits and pieces on some of the inserts?

#621 4 years ago

Probably mentioned elsewhere but just wondering on people's skill shot, is it possible on your machine to shoot straight in to the upper flipper ramp from a new ball? On pinball arcade you can plunge and get up there, on mine the closest I can do is go through the top lane which puts the ball in line for the upper flipper to take the ramp shot, no way to plunge straight up it.

#622 4 years ago

Yours is set up correctly.

#623 4 years ago
Quoted from pinmanguy:

Probably mentioned elsewhere but just wondering on people's skill shot, is it possible on your machine to shoot straight in to the upper flipper ramp from a new ball? On pinball arcade you can plunge and get up there, on mine the closest I can do is go through the top lane which puts the ball in line for the upper flipper to take the ramp shot, no way to plunge straight up it.

Mine goes up the ramp 95% of the time if I pull the plunger back all the way. Might not supposed to be that way, but makes playing the game a lot more fun.

#624 4 years ago
Quoted from swenny:

Mine goes up the ramp 95% of the time if I pull the plunger back all the way. Might not supposed to be that way, but makes playing the game a lot more fun.

Is it more fun, or just easier?

#625 4 years ago

I sold my spare set of new ramps.

I have a reasonable condition topper (a bit yellowed and some cracks at screw tabs) and nearly complete set of use plastics. I also have a spare wireform that dumps balls onto the spinning discs also.

If anyone is going to MGC or VFW shows I can bring them to you. I will put up a thread with photos of the stuff later today.

#626 4 years ago

Both!

#627 4 years ago
Quoted from TunaSled:

This shot is supposed to be difficult. It's notorious. Try for the 3-way siren combo ending with this shot. It doesn't pay well in points but it sure does in satisfaction. Left orbit between the pops, upper flipper around the small loop, then finally the millions ramp. You'll be paid in bacon, tits and beer.

I think I've figured out why my ramp shot was proving so difficult. I put a cliffy on my ramp entrance, and the left edge was not flush with the edge of the ramp. A ball could hit that edge of the cliffy and bounce as the cliffy flexed, killing its momentum. I loosened the ball guide on the left and tucked the edge of the cliffy behind it and now I have a nice clean shot up the ramp.

#628 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

Interestingly, (or maybe this is the norm), all of the bubbles appear over the inserts. (There are also a couple of edges that are coming up.) I don't plan on clearcoating. The playfield appears to be in really good shape, so I am confident I would end up making things worse. Thanks for the info on the decals, as I was thinking a decal is a decal and was actually wondering if they were waterslide. So, can I infer you are recommending to leave it as it is and only attack it if, after cleaning, it looks like crap. Related to this, as I mentioned many of the directional arrows on the compass have worn away in whole or in part. Is there a best way to remove the residual bits and pieces on some of the inserts?

Post some nice detailed pictures of the playfield and I'm sure you'll get more advice.

I think Vid recommends using a chisel in his playfield restoration thread. You don't "chisel" the paint off so much as put the chisel perpendicular to the insert and use it to scrape the paint off.

#629 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

Post some nice detailed pictures of the playfield and I'm sure you'll get more advice.
I think Vid recommends using a chisel in his playfield restoration thread. You don't "chisel" the paint off so much as put the chisel perpendicular to the insert and use it to scrape the paint off.

Well I had to remove part of another one since a good 1/2" was coming up from the edge already. Removing it back until I hit decent tack results in damage to one insert label plus a bit of paint. So, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that the rest of the mylar holds up.

Interesting on removal of the old decals. Since woodworking is my main hobby, I actually have a variety of scrapers and good bit of experience using them so I can control it fairly well (with scrapers, the blade is held at an angle beyond perpendicular to allow the tiny hook to cut/catch at the correct angle). Now that I think about it, seems like a reasonable approach to use. Thanks

#631 4 years ago

I'm thinking of installing wood playfield rails along the side of the cabinet, when I paint and decal the cab. The metal hinges just seem horrible to me. Is there any reason wooden support rails would be considered bad? I can screw or bolt them in easily, then fill and sand any holes before I paint and decal. That's what I'm thinking, anyway.

Imagine being able to lift your WW playfield up, and then lean it against the backbox, system 7 style. That just has to be better.

#632 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I'm thinking of installing wood playfield rails along the side of the cabinet, when I paint and decal the cab. The metal hinges just seem horrible to me. Is there any reason wooden support rails would be considered bad? I can screw or bolt them in easily, then fill and sand any holes before I paint and decal. That's what I'm thinking, anyway.
Imagine being able to lift your WW playfield up, and then lean it against the backbox, system 7 style. That just has to be better.

Well it is not original, so if you ever have to sell you would take a hit (and probably a sizable one). Second, the pf still needs the hinges to support the game when the pf is down, so they would still be in the game.

#633 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Well it is not original, so if you ever have to sell you would take a hit (and probably a sizable one). Second, the pf still needs the hinges to support the game when the pf is down, so they would still be in the game.

Why would the hinges still be needed, if the rails are supporting the playfield? I don't get this. As far as the rails not being original...well yeah, but almost none of the game will be original. The playfield, plastics and cabinet art are CPR/Planetary repros. I assume that people who don't mind that the game is essentially a "kit" rebuilt, won't mind that there's something out of view that makes it much easier to maintain the game.

#634 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Why would the hinges still be needed, if the rails are supporting the plafield? I don't get this. As far as the rails not being original...well yeah, but almost none of the game will be original. The playfield, plastics and cabinet art are CPR/Planetary repros. I assume that people who don't mind that the game is essentially a "kit" rebuilt, won't mind that there's something out of view that makes it much easier to maintain the game.

So the rails will act as the support when the PF is down instead of the hinges, OK I did not get that.
As for the rails being unoriginal, it is not how the game was designed, so it will be a harder sell (at least for me, I would rather have hinges than the rails.) The rails make it a lot easier to accidently drop the entire PF in the game, causing damage. (Just ask almost anybody who has a DE how easy it is.) The side rails will also cause damage to the under PF over time after being slid over the rails over and over.

While I agree the hinges leave something to be desired, I personlly like them much more than the simple wood rails of yesteryear, and would see it as a step back, not a step forward.

#635 4 years ago

So in between fighting an issue with the special solenoid for the top right jet (thread in the tech forum), I am cleaning up plastics. I have a replacement for one (broken) that has the sign riveted to it. I'm curious to know if people rivet or just use screws and nuts to attach the sign to a new plastic.

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

So in between fighting an issue with the special solenoid for the top right jet (thread in the tech forum), I am cleaning up plastics. I have a replacement for one (broken) that has the sign riveted to it. I'm curious to know if people rivet or just use screws and nuts to attach the sign to a new plastic.

Depends if you have access to a riveter or now (it is one of the tools I REALLY need to buy, but they can be expensive.)

#637 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

So in between fighting an issue with the special solenoid for the top right jet (thread in the tech forum), I am cleaning up plastics. I have a replacement for one (broken) that has the sign riveted to it. I'm curious to know if people rivet or just use screws and nuts to attach the sign to a new plastic.

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

#638 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

So how hard was it to build? I know the instructions from them are not online, but if possible could you scan and send them? I want to see if I can build it, or if it is over my head and better off buying the completed one!

#639 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

I bought the kit from Pinrestore that turns a Harbor Freight press into a rivet press. It works well, but I'm very close to getting the longer die. The shorter one that comes in the kit will work in 90% of the jobs you need to do, but there are times that it doesn't. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Definitely get the longer die as well - you will use it particularly if your replacing any ramp flaps. If you don't to spend the $53 for both long ones then at least get the head die for $29

1 week later
#640 4 years ago

Officially a member

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/picked-up-two-sys-11-grails-today

Question, I was playing this morning and a small part of one of the Yellow Oblong Target Faces broke off... I've been looking for a replacement and can't find. The closest is this - but all I really need is the plastic target itself (and not sure this is even the right part, might be for newer Bally/Williams):

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6

#641 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Question, I was playing this morning and a small part of one of the Yellow Oblong Target Faces broke off... I've been looking for a replacement and can't find. The closest is this - but all I really need is the plastic target itself (and not sure this is even the right part, might be for newer Bally/Williams):

I ordered this exact part from Marcos, then drilled out the rivets and reversed the bracket. Only took two minutes as i had some extra screws to put it back together.

#642 4 years ago

I need some expertise/info on the right ramp. Often, when I go into the diagnostics it will produce a right ramp err message. However, the coil test for up and down ramp work fine. I've only played a few games on it so far; however, the right ramp mechanism will click three or four times at the start of the game and occasionally during game play as if it is trying to raise the ramp. I've only had the ramp raise once or twice. So my question is whether this is normal, i.e., the ramp is down 99% of the time. I did look at the mechanism and tried to adjust the micro switch since it looks to me as though the 'bar' on the plunger is supposed to engage the microswitch when it is pulled in. (Not sure if I was completely successful and if there is a technique to adjusting the switch) My guess is that the micro switch engages the second coil, which locks the first but when the coil test occurs, it fires both coils without relying on the microswitch. Thoughts?
Thanks

#643 4 years ago

Any recent word on the second run of playfields?

#644 4 years ago

HERE IT COMES!!!

When I fell into the pinball rabbithole with Space Shuttle last October, one of the first discoveries of "other" machines was Whirlwind... and from the theme, to the art, to the little easter eggs (Chicago Skyway / I-80 / crashing minivan / hillbilly callouts / color scheme) I knew I HAD to have this one... little did I know what a great game it is to boot!

So I put out a APB a couple weeks ago for it and a couple other titles... a great pinsider in southern Indiana said he was the 2nd owner of a WW and was getting ready to shop it a bit, but could let it go to a good home... perfect timing...

...so here it is now in our living room, wife getting schooled... much more to come... once I dial in the flippers and a few other things, should be a beast!

LucidArcade.jpg

Ironically enough, after setting up WW I turned on Shuttle and promptly had my best game ever on that one. Pinball gods are fickle, or she needlessy worried about pending neglect? That's juct crazy, ha ha...

#645 4 years ago

I need some help/confirmation on some parts. First, I'm having an issue with the general illumination and have isolated it to the relay board on the backside on the backbox (the part that swings out). After fiddling with it, I think replacement is the way to go. Here is where it gets interesting. The board in the box is 5768-12243-00. On Marco, this is 12VDC board. According to the manual, the correct part is C-11902-1, which is a 24 VDC board. Hmm. Before I go ahead and order the C-11902-1, I thought I'd ask if anyone knows what they are running?

Second, per my previous post, the ramp doesn't always work. I'm pretty certain it is the microswitch. I've tried to adjust the leaf to make it work properly but with limited success...plus the switch appears to be a bit flaky anyhow. In any case, first, if anyone has a picture of the microswitch for the ramp, I'd love to see how it is supposed to work. Second, I can't seem to find the correct replacement part so was wondering if anyone had suggestions on an alternative switch that I can modify to fit.
Thanks

#646 4 years ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

I need some help/confirmation on some parts. First, I'm having an issue with the general illumination and have isolated it to the relay board on the backside on the backbox (the part that swings out). After fiddling with it, I think replacement is the way to go. Here is where it gets interesting. The board in the box is 5768-12243-00. On Marco, this is 12VDC board. According to the manual, the correct part is C-11902-1, which is a 24 VDC board. Hmm. Before I go ahead and order the C-11902-1, I thought I'd ask if anyone knows what they are running?

There are two additional 24 VDC relays under the playfield that are part C-11902-1, different from the backbox. C-11998-1 seems to be the correct part number for the backboard relay - using a 24 VDC relay.

Check the solenoid table on page 32 of the manual, Sol 16 and note 4a. Here's another confirming source on C-11998-1:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/sy11rb1_a.html

Are you sure it's not a cold solder joint or a bad connector either on the relay board or at the interconnect board?

#647 4 years ago

I had first checked the reerence on page 32; however, I found the footnotes to be confusing. So, I went by the reference or Solenoid 16 on page 53. It lists the part as C-11902-1. Now when I went back to doublecheck, I see a second reference to Solenoid 16, which is the C-11998-1 you have noted. So, I guess C-11998-1 is the correct answer. I have checked the solder on the relay board and all seems fine. The fact that I can get the lights to work by placing a jumper across two pins makes me think that the issue is not at the interconnect board or the pins. However, this may be flawed logic.

#648 4 years ago

That table is confusing the way it combines the two relays into one entry.

Another thought, when you run the solenoid test does the lower playfield relay switch as expected for Sol 16? I suppose that would rule out the driver transistor.

#649 4 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

HERE IT COMES!!!
When I fell into the pinball rabbithole with Space Shuttle last October, one of the first discoveries of "other" machines was Whirlwind... and from the theme, to the art, to the little easter eggs (Chicago Skyway / I-80 / crashing minivan / hillbilly callouts / color scheme) I knew I HAD to have this one... little did I know what a great game it is to boot!
So I put out a APB a couple weeks ago for it and a couple other titles... a great pinsider in southern Indiana said he was the 2nd owner of a WW and was getting ready to shop it a bit, but could let it go to a good home... perfect timing...
...so here it is now in our living room, wife getting schooled... much more to come... once I dial in the flippers and a few other things, should be a beast!
LucidArcade.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Ironically enough, after setting up WW I turned on Shuttle and promptly had my best game ever on that one. Pinball gods are fickle, or she needlessy worried about pending neglect? That's juct crazy, ha ha...

I wish my wife would let me put pinball in my living room! great scores.... on both the games and the wife!!!

#650 4 years ago
Quoted from hootowls:

That table is confusing the way it combines the two relays into one entry.
Another thought, when you run the solenoid test does the lower playfield relay switch as expected for Sol 16? I suppose that would rule out the driver transistor.

When I run through the coil test, both relays fire when testing sol 16. However, when I turn the machine on, they don't appear to fire. Is there is a different logic path used when running the diagnostics as opposed to normal startup? If so, where could I determine the source of the difference is and, therefore, a good place to start my search?

As I type this, I realize that I am moving from a Whirlwind specific question of 'what is the correct part?' to 'I have a technical question, which relates to any system 11' so I think I'll try to pick this thread up in the alpha-num technical section
Thanks

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 30.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Crofton, MD
3,900
Machine - For Sale
Gardner, MA
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
From: $ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 399.95
There are 2901 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 59.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside