(Topic ID: 62621)

Whirlwind Club... Members Only!


By mof

5 years ago



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There are 2940 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 59.
#551 4 years ago

hmmm
just went home and squeezed the wire into j11/1. No respose from the machine. Maybe relayboard is kaput..
How can I easily check for broken relay board. How is this board powered or controlled? What voltage should I measure and see on my multimeter?

BTW:
can anyone tell me what that relay board does for the game? Is it just blinking the lights at random, or is it interactive with gameplay?

#552 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeroen:

hmmm
just went home and squeezed the wire into j11/1. No respose from the machine. Maybe relayboard is kaput..
How can I easily check for broken relay board. How is this board powered or controlled? What voltage should I measure and see on my multimeter?
BTW:
can anyone tell me what that relay board does for the game? Is it just blinking the lights at random, or is it interactive with gameplay?

Looking more into the manual - I'm citing the pages so you can verify:

J11/1 and J12/1 below it are both BRN/GRY wires on the interconnect board (pg 94) and supply 25V to solenoid 16 (pg 95) of which there are two. One is inside the back box insert board and the other is under the playfield (pg 42). I can't tell without opening up my game which BRN/GRY wire goes to which relay. The relays switch the power on and off to the GI lights in the back box and lower playfield - there's another solenoid (Sol 11) under the playfield, with a different power connection, that handles the upper playfield.

So if J11/1 is connected you should see problems in the GI lights not switching in either the back box or lower playfield (whichever one connects to J11/1). The GI light switching is connected to gameplay.

Hope this helps!

#553 4 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Posted in another thread talking about what a HEP Wwind may cost, but figured worth sharing number in the owners thread.
Here is the parts tally for a nice base Wwind that was restored

crazy low on the 'bondo/paint estimate'

#554 4 years ago

I saw that on J11/1 a small piece of the brown/grey wire was still left in there. After prying it out, I reconnected it and switched it back on. No light flashing whatsoever...
I think i'll start testing the board itself by jumping 25V directly onto the board terminals. Just have to figure out where to pick that from...

If the relay switches then the problem lies deeper....

#555 4 years ago

The Sol 16 relay really just switches the GI lights on and off - a good example of this is at the end of game while the little controlled lamp light show happens and the music plays - the GI lamps are off for that and then switch back on at the end of the show with an audible click and the game goes into attract mode. This would be for the back box, upper playfield and lower playfield from their respective solenoids (16 and 11). So I'm guessing that either the back box or lower playfield GI lamps are not switching for you - so then it's either the relay itself or the Q6 transistor on the MPU (which would affect both Sol 16 relays).

#556 4 years ago

Just became a member of the best system 11 machine ever produced. It is the family favorite right now!

image.jpg
#557 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Just became a member of the best system 11 machine ever produced.

I love system 11 games.

I agree, Whirlwind is THE best.

Congrats!!!

#558 4 years ago

Gentleman I need some help please. My Northeast target is not registering. There are two solid yellow wires and one has broken loose from another connection. I cannot figure out where that other connection is supposed to be soldered to. Here are two pictures. The two yellow wires are soldered to the point on the north east target but one wire is left dangling. Can anyone please post a picture or explain where that dangling wire is supposed to be Soldered to? I greatly appreciate all the help.

image.jpg
image-619.jpg

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Gentleman I need some help please. My Northeast target is not registering. There are two solid yellow wires and one has broken loose from another connection. I cannot figure out where that other connection is supposed to be soldered to. Here are two pictures. The two yellow wires are soldered to the point on the north east target but one wire is left dangling. Can anyone please post a picture or explain where that dangling wire is supposed to be Soldered to? I greatly appreciate all the help.

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its either the northwest target or the switch for the right side spinner.

#560 4 years ago

Great point! I just looked in the Northwest target and it does not have any yellow wires going to it however the spinner target does. My spare target only had one yellow wire connected so I re - soldered The loose wire. That did not fix the problem and My spinner target also does not work/register. I Cannot remember if it worked before though. Does anyone know if the spinner target has two solid yellow wires attached to it? I may just have a bad switch?

#561 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Great point! I just looked in the Northwest target and it does not have any yellow wires going to it however the spinner target does. My spare target only had one yellow wire connected so I re - soldered The loose wire. That did not fix the problem and My spinner target also does not work/register. I do not know if it worked before though. Does anyone know if the spinner target has two solid yellow wires attached to it? I may just have a bad switch?

The ne, nw, and spinner switch are all in the same column in the switch matrix. They should all be daisy chained together. You may be missing another wire between the nw target and another switch in that column

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Great point! I just looked in the Northwest target and it does not have any yellow wires going to it however the spinner target does. My spare target only had one yellow wire connected so I re - soldered The loose wire. That did not fix the problem and My spinner target also does not work/register. I do not know if it worked before though. Does anyone know if the spinner target has two solid yellow wires attached to it? I may just have a bad switch?

Oh no!!

Ah, Rob...the move must have that wire loose. Darn

I had gone through switch test yesterday and made sure all the coils and switches were working. They were all working. It must have just jarred loose.

#563 4 years ago

No worries Todd. This is all part of the fun of getting a new game in the house . It's a 25 year old machine, if I was to bump my old lady around like a pinball machine , shit would get knocked loose on her too! Haha!

#564 4 years ago

Ha. Yeah, well, I know 25 yr old machines have brittle wires...but I also know you want to be playing it rather than fixing it. I'm definitely sure those targets and spinner were working....I checked them and then played a few games. They have to register for the machine to know to lock for multi ball.

Did you check all of switch column six? It could be one of the other switches in that column...

#565 4 years ago

I guess the good news is...the wire looks like it isn't terribly long. Hopefully that will help...

#566 4 years ago

Awesome! It was perfect when I rolled out from your place and I will fix that pesty wire that got bumped loose en route. This has been the best pin transaction I have ever had. I'll track her down In the morning!

#567 4 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

The ne, nw, and spinner switch are all in the same column in the switch matrix. They should all be daisy chained together. You may be missing another wire between the nw target and another switch in that column

That was it exactly Dsuperbee! The yellow wire broke away from the nw target (the lug with the 2 green wires). It is back to working perfect. You Pinsiders rock! Thank you for all your help.

#568 4 years ago

Found out that relay pcb on the inside of the backboard works. It clicks and clacks wildly when I enter the the right ramp for miles.
Its just that the lamps are still not flashing along. Think now that printlanes are maybe faulty or just bad connections on the connectors...

to be continued..

#569 4 years ago
Quoted from Jeroen:

Found out that relay pcb on the inside of the backboard works. It clicks and clacks wildly when I enter the the right ramp for miles.
Its just that the lamps are still not flashing along. Think now that printlanes are maybe faulty or just bad connections on the connectors...
to be continued..

You can try swapping it with the same relay from under the playfield to see if you get different results.

#570 4 years ago

I should've mentioned to check the solder joints on the pins when you check those connectors on the relay board - it could be as easy as cold (cracked) solder joints on those male pins.

#571 4 years ago

tearing down my whirlwind...ordered parts and then wondered? does the ring list in the manual account for the locations with doubled up rings as i have seen on most machines including mine? or was the game originally only single rings everywhere?

#572 4 years ago

does anyone have any extra plastics?.......a few of mine are off color repro's or broken.....let me know what you have please.

#573 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

does anyone have any extra plastics?.......a few of mine are off color repro's or broken.....let me know what you have please.

Probably quicker if you post what you need...

#574 4 years ago

I will post pictures tonight.......Thanks

#575 4 years ago

This was asked earlier in this thread, but I don't think it was answered. Has anyone used any type of dry lubricant, or wet lubricant for that matter successfully on the gears to quiet them down?

Also, the same question for the fan. When mine is spinning, it's got a "chatter" to it like the shaft has some play in it. I'm wondering if something like some Remington Drylube would work? It's supposed to leave a Teflon film behind. I've also got some SuperLube that I may try.

#576 4 years ago

I used some white lithium grease on my wheels and it definitely quieted down a bit. That said, not worth it, as all the dirt stuck to the wheels and ended up being a mess. I would just leave them if you can tolerate the noise. Im still looking for Dynamat on the cheap, its really the best shot at quieting this thing down (ive got two little ones in the house and i need to be quiet at night, lol).

#577 4 years ago

So I made some sideboard decals for EATPM in the past that turned out pretty good:
eatpm_sideboard_decals.jpg

Decided to do the same for whirlwind. Here's a photoshop of it installed:
whirlwind_sideboard_decals.jpg

Who'd be interested? Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

#578 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So I made some sideboard decals for EATPM in the past that turned out pretty good:

Decided to do the same for Whirlwind. Here's a photoshop of it installed:

Who'd be interested? Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

eatpm_sideboard_decals.jpg 97 KB

whirlwind_sideboard_decals.jpg 196 KB

I'm in Joe. Mike

#579 4 years ago

Second that!

#580 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

In

#581 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So I made some sideboard decals for EATPM in the past that turned out pretty good:

Decided to do the same for Whirlwind. Here's a photoshop of it installed:

Who'd be interested? Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

eatpm_sideboard_decals.jpg 97 KB

whirlwind_sideboard_decals.jpg 196 KB

Oh yes, well done!
-mof

btw -- before you install these beauties -- do three things:

1. Check the current swing of your PF and learn where it now already scrapes occasionally with the sides of the cabinet.

2. Consider installing felt along the sides of your PF.

3. Examine all components that "can" rub the edge, and ensure they are all bolted down and bent the way you want them.

Last thing you'd want to do is install these neat things, and then scratch them.
-mof

#582 4 years ago

Sure, why not, I'm in.

#583 4 years ago

Im in too! This looks sweet! Please let us know the details!

#584 4 years ago

finally got pictures of the plastics that i am looking for....some are homemade reproductions and some broken.....any help with nice used plastics would be great ......also some help with the proper brackets for the right ramp sign.......thanks

FullSizeRender3.jpg FullSizeRender4.jpg IMG_1568.JPG FullSizeRender2.jpg FullSizeRender.jpg FullSizeRender5.jpg IMG_1569.JPG
#585 4 years ago

I'm in. First machine i bought, currently my only pin. Remembered playing it at a local mini golf place as a kid. Not in the best shape, not in the worst shape. Getting it fixed up piece by piece. Would love a new PF if anyone knows where to find one. Some pics:

IMG_8880.jpg IMG_8609.jpg
#586 4 years ago
Quoted from tommyp:

Would love a new PF if anyone knows where to find one.

There's one on EBay but prepare for $$.

#587 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Decided to do the same for Whirlwind.
Who'd be interested? Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

Yep...

i'm in as well...

where to deliver funds?

#588 4 years ago

question about the rubber pieces used ....the quantities listed in the owners manual is different than the quantities listed in the Williams red parts manual on PPS.....which is correct?

#589 4 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Who'd be interested? Looking at about $30/set plus shipping.

Any word on this? (you stirred up a hornets nest!)

#591 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Another set of blades here. Tough choice between the two options.
-mof
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-pinblades-pinball-inner-cabinet-decals

Missed that post!

It is a tough choice for sure. I like them both but am leaning towards the ones toyotaboy has.

#592 4 years ago

Just wondering if this problem has happened to anyone? My single drop target drops and resets repeatedly during a game. Sometimes with a little time in between and sometimes one after another. I cleaned the unit thinking dirt build-up was causing it and that seemed to work for a while, but it started up again. The same thing happened this time last year and gradually went away as the warmer weather returned. I'm thinking the cold, dry air is causing the parts to contract and not hold the target up as it should even though the machine is in a climate controlled space. Anyone else in a colder climate ever have this happen?

#593 4 years ago

I like the wheat field blades better for sure.

#594 4 years ago

Anyone with any answers on the rubber pieces required for whirwind......since the owners manual and the Williams parts manual are different?

#595 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

Anyone with any answers on the rubber pieces required for whirwind......since the owners manual and the Williams parts manual are different?

In my experience neither of them will be right. A kit is a good start, but I guarantee you'll need more. Buy extras, they're not that expensive.

#596 4 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

In my experience neither of them will be right. A kit is a good start, but I guarantee you'll need more. Buy extras, they're not that expensive.

What he said. I have a organizer box with every size rubber ring. If I need one I am out of, I order a dozen or so, label the extras and throw em in the box. Having extra rings on hand is not a bad thing when you have more than one machine.

#597 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

This was asked earlier in this thread, but I don't think it was answered. Has anyone used any type of dry lubricant, or wet lubricant for that matter successfully on the gears to quiet them down?
Also, the same question for the fan. When mine is spinning, it's got a "chatter" to it like the shaft has some play in it. I'm wondering if something like some Remington Drylube would work? It's supposed to leave a Teflon film behind. I've also got some SuperLube that I may try.

Update: sprayed my fan assembly with some Remington Dry Lube last night, and it did quiet the fan noticeably. Tried the same on the gears, not a big difference.

#598 4 years ago

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

#599 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper?

Mine is hard, can go a few games and miss it every time. But I wouldn't say it requires a perfect shot.

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

How hard is everyone's ramp shot from the upper flipper? Mine takes an almost perfect shot to make it. Everything was rebuilt when I restored the pin. Just wondering if this is typical.

Mine is a tough shot too, takes a well timed flip to get it up and all the way around. Should be a tough shot for what you get rewarded with by hitting it.

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