Quoted from wxforecaster:
Capper, if you have detailed instructions, PLEASE feel free to post them here, on a separate site, etc... LOVE IT! Very realistic effect.
Here ya go. BTW i highly suggest you paint the front of the lightning board white while you are in there, it makes it look a ton better.
Ok, here we go.. Keep in mind that this is how I installed the flashers, you can do it many other ways and many on the forum will suggest that you solder the lamp directly to the board but I am not great at soldering and I dont want to risk screwing up a PCB board that you cannot replace easily.
18 gauge wire
44 Style sockets with 2 lugs
Wedge Style Sockets with 2 lugs (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5026-01)
box of 18 gauge Ring Terminals
Insulated Alligator clips
Short screws to attach the sockets to the top of your machine
- Lightning Effect: Ok first remove the topper and set it aside. Measure your wire from the fan unit on top to the lightning board in the back of your playfield (that flashs when you hit a target) Make sure to allow room for cable management in your backbox. Ok cut two strands of 18 gauge for this length. Attach one end of each piece to a wedge socket using your solder iron. Attach a red ring terminal (the smallest type one) to the other end of each wire. Ok you are going to mount the socket on the top and feed the two rings down to your lightning board. Ok, ID which flasher you want to light up, remove the plastic twist that the flasher goes in from the lightning board, and put the ring terminal "around" the metal tab that connects the flasher lamp to the Lightning board and twist it back in. Basically you sandwich the ring to the PCB board and the twist flasher, but make sure that there are no exposed wires or that the ring could touch another lead (it shouldn't). So one ring goes to one metal tab and the other goes to the other metal tab. What this does is send the current up to your flasher and then completes the loop back down.
I have used this method on Whirlwind and also CFTBL for lighted pop bumpers and they seem to stay put, I have not had one cause issues yet.
- Red/Blue Effects: That takes care of the lightning effect, now for the red/blue effects you solder up a wedge socket up top like before and run the wire down to the flasher socket under the (5000 when flashing) bulbs under each set of pop bumpers. I used insulated aligator clips for this piece but you could also solder the wires directly to the lug if you are good with soldering a soldering iron. Same rules apply, make sure you complete the circuit. Make sure you allow slack for lifting and lowering the playfield for these.
- Fan Lamp Effect: Now for the Fan lights, Mount two 44 style sockets on top, solder a wire onto one of the lugs of the first socket and then solder the other end of the wire to one of the lugs on the second socket. Basically you are wiring the sockets together. You should have one free lug on each lamp socket now. Solder another piece of wire on the free lug and connect an insulated alligator clip on the other end. Do this for both lamps. You now clip the alligator clips to each lug on the fan where the wires attach to the motor to complete the circuit. This circuit runs at a higher voltage, so you cannot use any old LED bulb, it will burn out. Use the "Balrog" flasher for these (that are sold via CT for use in LOTR)
This is my LEDS i have selected for this project.
2x Warm White LEDs 44 bulbs each attached to a GI rear lamp (might switch to UV)
2x CT "Balrog" Flasher 44 bulbs attached to the fan motor (higher voltage LEDs)
1x CT 9 stack Coolwhite 906 flasher on first lightning lamp
1x CT 9 stack Orange 906 flasher on second lightning lamp
1x CT 9 stack Coolwhite 906 Flasher on third lightning lamp
1x CT 9 stack Red 906 Flasher on the High Pressure flasher insert
1x CT 9 stack Blue 906 Flasher on the Low pressure flasher insert