These were in for 2 days. I've tried longer in the past and never seemed to see any difference past a day or two

The wheel is on order, if amazon ever gets around to shipping it...

They seem to never even ship my order for like 4 days. Once it's shipped its always here quick though. I think they're just artificially delaying my order since I don't have prime

Hard to up sell your free prime 2 day shipping vs the 5-8 day free shipping if USPS just goes and delivers in 2-3 days no matter what otherwise...

Second order from PBR arrived today with a ton of lamp sockets. Looks like I'll have a fun weekend ahead.

Found that pinball plating has a side ramp habitrail already on hand, so I can do an exchange for my rusty one pretty quick. Had to take the riveted on plastic off first; somehow managed to crack it nearly in half when not even working on that rivet. Probably salvageable, and bayarea amusements has spares at worst, but annoying

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Starship fantasy has all the ramps, but they're pretty expensive

Switches arrived. Installed 12 and then realized that they'd sent me the wrong ones for one type Replacements are on the way, but that's another thing I've got to wait for. And of course they're the ones that are buried under the mechs in the back, so I can't reassemble the PF at all until I have them.

Some corn media should arrive tomorrow so I can try the tumbler with that.

Ordered a rottendog orange led display since mine seems to be dead.

While I wait for the switches I'll do all the lamp sockets, then see to the ramps (namely the ramp flaps). Sadly replacement flaps don't seem to be available, so I'll have to try to either clean these up, or cut some new ones (but I'm not a fan of that)

Went through about half the lamps+switches today. A lot of these are really buried in there. Had to unmount the wiring harness and remove more mechs to get to them. Removed everything at once since it some sockets were in the way of others, so will be fun figuring out how the wiring all worked again.
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Couldn't get a good angle at the bottom stuff, so I lifted the playfield up and set the back wall on the pivots, and strapped it to the head for easier accessIMG_20191026_105842 (resized).jpg

Realized I should do the pops while I had everything off, since those are always a pain, which mean that, before installing the new pop bodies, I'd need to clean the playfield, so I switched gears and started on that. Did the unmylared areas first, since I'm still worried that the moisture and chlorine will have ruined the playfield somehow. All the wood has a weird feel to it, but after a few vigorous passes of novus and buffing, it cleans up and feels normal. Not sure what's up with that... In a few places it also looked like there might have been a very thin layer of mold or something, but it also came up easily. IMG_20191026_202328 (resized).jpgIMG_20191026_202318 (resized).jpg

One other weird thing is that there seems to be paint loss around all the gi lamp sockets. Not sure why that would be since none of the places the ball actually rolls are wornIMG_20191026_195800 (resized).jpgIMG_20191026_195756 (resized).jpgIMG_20191026_195806 (resized).jpg

Corn cob media also arrived today, so all the playfield metal is now polishing again. Interested to see how it compares to the walnut
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Putting shiny new white plastic on stuff always makes it look so much better
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No rotisserie. I've borrowed one a few times but don't like them much. Usually if I was going to be doing this much work I'd just put the playfield on a table and work on it. Didn't realize I'd have all this stuff to fix when I put the playfield in the cab though, but don't feel like taking it all the way out again now that all the wiring is threaded back to the head, etc

I removed the plastic on top of the right ramp, then the metal walls of the entry way, then the ramp itself.

Yes

Took off the drop target mechs. Both were nearly frozen, could barely move up and down. On disassembly the washers were predictably rusty, and someone seems to have put some kind of lubricant in the mechs which is now just making it worse. Cleaned them up with alcohol and a dremel, then installed new washers and springs.
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Was able to figure out how to test the 3 bank opto board on the bench, and verified the optos were working. The one bank opto board seems to have a different circuit design though, so either I wasn't testing it right or the opto is bad. Looked like it'd already been replaced once (unlike the 3 bank which seemed to have had no work done on it), not sure if that's a good or a bad sign. Will reinstall for now and test it once I get the machine running; it's not too hard to remove.

Assembled all the necessary sockets for the big swath I'd removed before getting sidetracked by the pop bumpers and playfield, and reinstalled them. I had planned to wire them up as I went, but realized I needed to at least lay them out to visualize how it all goes back together. My pictures of it before hand are pretty useless since the harness is such a mess of wires. Will reconnect them tonight, using the manual as a reference.
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New display came, so once I get the playfield reassembled to a point where I'm not afraid of all the dangling wires shorting stuff I'll reinstall the boards and display and see how far I can get

Gotta save em all if we can...

Reconnected all the lamp sockets last night. In the process I also needed to reinstall the ramp lifter and right eject mechs, since the coils (zip tied to the harness) were dragging the whole wire loom down. Ramp lifter went fine, although the clearance between it and the lamp board next to it is scarily small.

The eject hole is giving me some weirder issues though. I fished the parts out of the tumbler and installed a new plunger+link, but when I assembled everything, it wouldn't work. The kicker arm seems to be misaligned with the coil, causing it to bind. Spent probably an hour playing with it, but it seems like the mounting holes on the playfield are just in the wrong place. Except that I took the mech out of those holes last week....

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Besides from that, there's a few more GI sockets to do, and then I think I can actually get the game booting and check all the new lamps and switches, then rebuild all the remaining mechs

No way I could wiggle this would make it not bind. It seems so far off from where it should be...

Is yours a repro playfield? It looks like those weren't drilled for the coil bracket, so they could be aligned properly. I'd like to align mine straight above the link but I'd have to do new holes

Finished installing all the new lamps and switches, and put the playfield back down. Hooked up the MPU, interconnect, and new display, and flipped the switch

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Then I realized that I didn't have the coin door installed yet, because it's also rusty and I need to figure out what to do with it (is it safe to just stick the entire metal piece in evaporust? or will that affect the paint?). Luckily toggling the switch fast got me past the factory settings warning.

Next I replaced the lamp rectifier and fuse holder, and was able to confirm 18V
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Plugged in the lamp matrix connectors, and viola
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Next will connect the door somehow so I can actually get to the tests to check the switches. I definitely have some lights out, but they don't seem to follow any real pattern, so hopefully it's just wiring issues on those individual sockets

As I should have expected, the diagnostic switches are rusty and don't work. Will need to track some of those down. Looks like none of the normal parts places carry them

Was able to get into test mode by manually shorting pins on the board together. Had a few switches that need adjustment, but besides from the single drop opto, they all work. Not sure if the drop opto is bad, or if I'm missing some connector needed for the 12V yet.

Thanks for the offer! It looks like it has a different mounting technique though, and I'd like to try to find the proper three button one first. If I can't find any, I'll PM you...

Yeah, I was going to just put the main... door part and frame in. Ordered two more gallons in that buy one get one sale, so I've got plenty to play around with now.

Also got that that wheel for polishing guides that was suggested earlier. Haven't even looked at the guides yet though. They're all sitting in a pile waiting.

This weekend I'm going to drop by my parents', who have a drill press and a rivet tool, and try to work out the ramp flaps.

Rebuilt the flippers and replaced the cab switches.

Repinned the burnt GI connectors with new crimp Trifurcons. GI all works, no bad wiring thankfully. With that put of the way I just need to figure out the drop optos and then I can finish up the bottom without fear of covering something.

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I think they'll be straightforward. One thing I could use a picture of though is of the 12V inline connectors on the bottom left of the head. Mine has 2x 2 pin connectors with black-yellow and grey wires, and one 3x pin connector, but I've only been able to find the mating ends for 1x 2 pin and 1x 3 pin, still have another 2 pin left hanging. Not sure where it goes.

Found that one of the wires has come out of the IDC connector for the single drop, so will need to repin that.

Sandblasted and painted the trim for the display panel.

Removed all the ramp flaps. Thankfully the hinge isn't riveted. The right ramp is in good shape, no cracks at all, but the side ramp entrance is really beaten. Not only cracked but seems a bit melted. Made new flaps out of sheets of material from Marco. Going to screw the flap onto the hinged ramp with Nylon nuts since it should have clearance, but can't do that on the side ramp. Am going to try something different, and use round-top wood screws through the flap and ramp, two holes instead of four.

Disassembled the coin door and put it on the evaporust

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