(Topic ID: 71596)

Which wax for the playfield?


By Nepi23

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 140 posts
  • 72 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by CNKay
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

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    There are 140 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
    #51 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yep, Novus2 to remove the tracks, then a solid layer of hard paste wax (I'll suggest Blitz 1 Grand as a super long lasting choice).
    If you keep it waxed on a regular basis, hopefully you won't need any more Novusing for a long time.
    Replace your balls 2x a year on games with multiball or heavy play. Cheap way to keep playfield wear down to a minimum.

    Thank you for the clarification.

    One more (dumb) question (and possibly slightly off topic): How many times should one attempt to rub off the ball tracks with Novus 2? I attempted one of the drain areas just above the apron twice, but can still see a bit of the track. Then on the inlane feed to a flipper where there is more wear, I did the same thing but the area is still pretty hazy. Almost seems like the Novus 2 isn't really doing anything on that part. I just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I put a layer of wax on to finalize it, or is there the possibility the game has been dirtied to the point of no return (it was a location game for a year and a half before me owning it, and I don't think it ever got a Novus 2 cleaning or a wax. Modern Stern game)?

    #52 5 years ago

    *double post.

    #53 5 years ago

    I ordered "Meguiars Gold Class Paste Wax Car Wax 311 g". Let's see how it performs!

    #54 5 years ago
    Quoted from akm:

    How many times should one attempt to rub off the ball tracks with Novus 2? I attempted one of the drain areas just above the apron twice, but can still see a bit of the track. Then on the inlane feed to a flipper where there is more wear, I did the same thing but the area is still pretty hazy. Almost seems like the Novus 2 isn't really doing anything on that part. I just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I put a layer of wax on to finalize it, or is there the possibility the game has been dirtied to the point of no return

    A nicked ball can do A LOT of damage in a short amount of time to a playfield.

    If the damage is deeper than Novus can remove, just keep it waxed, keep new balls in play, and forget about it.

    1 month later
    #55 5 years ago

    Whatever you use, make sure it does not have petroleum distillates in it. I read in the Bally WPC era manual that you never want to use a wax with petroleum distillates in it as it can attack the plastics and other finishes used in those machines.

    #56 5 years ago

    This is the stuff I use. About $25, but it's worth it and the tub lasts a long time. First coat I put on and take off a few minutes later. This seems to make the second coat buff out easier. Next coat I leave on until cured, but not so long that it's a workout. I find leaving it on too long can result in a bit more dust left behind. Timing is everything.

    A tip, if you get wax on posts it won't wipe off easily. Let it dry, then use a toothbrush to remove it instead, works like a charm.

    My pins play very fast after Mother's wax and a good buff.

    image-439.jpg

    #57 5 years ago

    Ok so i have a newbie question too. After you have the playfield waxed, do you need to remove the wax the next time? Or do you just wax over top of the old? If you do need to remove the wax, what product do you use that wont mess with the clearcoat?

    #58 5 years ago

    I use simply green before I put on a fresh coat of wax. Clean it up really good and then wax and buff.

    #59 5 years ago
    Quoted from Rickwh:

    Ok so i have a newbie question too. After you have the playfield waxed, do you need to remove the wax the next time? Or do you just wax over top of the old? If you do need to remove the wax, what product do you use that wont mess with the clearcoat?

    Think of wax as the protectant, not a cleaner. So next time around you must clean it. I wipe down first - which removes some of the dirt, then follow up with Novus 2 and a thorough buffing. Then I proceed with the waxing regiment. I do this maybe once every hundred plays or so (reachable playfield only, no a complete teardown ... Save that for a rainy day). More frequently for my non-diamond plated/clearcoat playfields.

    #60 5 years ago

    I disagree, I think if you keep your games waxed, and keep waxing before they get dirty, they will stay clean. The wax does clean quite a bit, you can see that when you wax a dirty playfield.... Just keep putting more wax down, more layers are never a bad thing... Novus 2 is good to use the first time you wax, to polish it nice and smooth, but after that, more wax is all you need... Even if you let the pf get dirty, if it was waxy to begin with the dirt will wipe right off easily with more wax.

    #61 5 years ago
    Quoted from pinBilly:

    I disagree, I think if you keep your games waxed, and keep waxing before they get dirty, they will stay clean. The wax does clean quite a bit, you can see that when you wax a dirty playfield.... Just keep putting more wax down, more layers are never a bad thing... Novus 2 is good to use the first time you wax, to polish it nice and smooth, but after that, more wax is all you need... Even if you let the pf get dirty, if it was waxy to begin with the dirt will wipe right off easily with more wax...

    I wouldn't want to rub the wax right on top of the dirt. You're just encapsulating the dirt into the wax. After a hundred plays rub your finger across the playfield and you'll see how much dirt has built up. A light cleaning with Novus 2 ... Or Novus 1 even is all it takes. Then have a field day with more wax.

    #62 5 years ago

    synthetic or natural both waxes are good. Peoples drop ridiculous money on ''higher end'' waxes for prestige if anything. turtle wax, mothers or new finish is great. I use whatever car wax I have laying around. Synthetic waxes last longer tough. I know that from a car pro.

    #63 5 years ago

    Don't use Novus 2 as a regular "cleaner". It is an abrasive, and is sanding down your playfield finish every time you use it.

    Don't use water based products (like Simple Green) as cleaners. If they get into the pores of the wood or into screw holes, they will swell and plank it.

    Between waxings, simply do a quick wipe with Novus1 or slightly damp rag, then wax again.

    Examine your balls and replace any with nicks or scratches.

    #64 5 years ago
    Quoted from The_Director:

    I use Mequiers Gold Class Carnuba Plus as well, have been for a couple years.

    Ditto

    #65 5 years ago

    Will Novus 1 remove light ball tracks in the drain lanes and light, ground in dirt in the middle of the playfild or do you need to use Novus 2 for that?

    Also, how often do you need to wax?

    #66 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Will Novus 1 remove light ball tracks in the drain lanes and light, ground in dirt in the middle of the playfild or do you need to use Novus 2 for that?

    Novus1 usually does not remove really ground in dirt (where the dirt is inside scratches), but it would be worth a try 1st.

    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Also, how often do you need to wax?

    Depends on how much play you give the game.

    On route I waxed monthly.

    #67 5 years ago

    I like Vid's advice (I know - captain obvious here), it seems like people forget about the existence of Novus 1.

    When I worked at an arcade for a couple years in the mid 90s there was always plenty of both Novus #1 and #2 on hand. My instructions back then from the regional manager (very experienced guy in the arcade business) were to use #1 as the 'regular' cleaner and use #2 as the 'heavy duty' cleaner, basically only to be used when a dirty game came in for the first time. That seems to correspond exactly with what Vid just said here.

    #68 5 years ago
    Quoted from EricR:

    I like Vid's advice (I know - captain obvious here), it seems like people forget about the existence of Novus 1.

    Quoted from pinster68:

    Or Novus 1 even is all it takes

    Ehem....

    #69 5 years ago

    Some posts or sites I have read say Novus 1 is glorified window cleaner. Seems like you guys believe is it better than window cleaner...

    Does it only clean plastics or does it polish (improve the gloss)?

    #70 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Depends on how much play you give the game.
    On route I waxed monthly.

    Thanks Vid. So in an active home environment (50-100 plays per week), once a quarter seem reasonable?

    #71 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Some posts or sites I have read say Novus 1 is glorified window cleaner. Seems like you guys believe is it better than window cleaner...
    Does it only clean plastics or does it polish (improve the gloss)?

    I gently wash plastics in warm soapy water, dry and then use Novus 1 with a clean terry cloth towel to polish them. Makes them a bit shinier and they'll resist dust better.

    #72 5 years ago

    For me:

    Step 1 - Simple Green
    I spray on a rag first to make sure it doesnt run into switch holes. This gets most of the dust/dirt sitting on top of the pf.

    Step 2 - Novus 2
    I belive this gets rid of old wax and grimier dirt and set up for a good waxing.

    Step 3 - Wax
    I use Mothers California Gold (same as Pinster68 above...)
    It was the only carnauba wax I could find in my small town. It works ok, but Id like to find Pro Yellow and Collinits to compare next.

    Just to note... I used the same simple green to clean my glass. It left the glass really blurry and messy. I had to reclean the glass with windex to get a perfect clean. This makes me question just how clean my pf really is.

    When it comes to following up with novus 2, its not a problem, but for a light dusting clean job, it worries me.

    #73 5 years ago
    Quoted from maddog14:

    I think I prefer the Meguiar's Gold Class Carnuba Plus over the blitz.
    Not sure yet though.

    ^^This^^

    #74 5 years ago

    I use "Yellow wax" and I think people wax way too often especially if you have a pin with good clear…...

    #75 5 years ago

    This will go over like a brick but after a good cleaning, I've never had a problem with millwax. It's never...

    1. Eaten through paint.
    2. Melted playfield plastics.
    3. Warped boards.
    4. Given me tumors.
    5. Destabilized the middle east.

    Below, you'll find an extensive litany of the dangers of millwax from actual chemists.

    #76 5 years ago

    It's a scientific fact, that if you've ever used millwax, you're going to die.

    #77 5 years ago

    I use Millwax also without any problems. Never used carnuba so I cant say which is better or if there is any real difference.

    #78 5 years ago

    Just remember any "wax" that is a liquid "wipe on, wipe off" is probably just silicone.

    Silicone is great for water beading, but is not going to protect your playfield from wear.

    You want a hard paste wax that can build a protective finish, not water protection (although all that silicone will help protect your playfield from Simple Green).

    #79 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    Thanks Vid. So in an active home environment (50-100 plays per week), once a quarter seem reasonable?

    yes.

    #80 5 years ago
    Quoted from motorbreth77:

    I use Mothers Pure Carnuba Wax, the non cleaner/non abrasive kind.
    Any autopart store will have it. Not cheap but one container lasts a long time.
    It works great for me, game is crazy fast after a fresh wax.
    And like Vid said, you are prob using too much wax.
    The idea is to apply a 'thin' invisible coat of wax on the playing surface.
    Helps if you wet the applicator as well.
    -matt

    +1

    #81 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Just remember any "wax" that is a liquid "wipe on, wipe off" is probably just silicone.
    Silicone is great for water beading, but is not going to protect your playfield from wear.
    You want a hard paste wax that can build a protective finish, not water protection (although all that silicone will help protect your playfield from Simple Green).

    Not sure that is true unless you dont consider this "wipe on, wipe off":
    41jgX637brL._SY300_.jpg

    #82 5 years ago

    I think he is referring to this type of "wipe on / wipe off" "wax".

    http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g12824-nxt-generationreg-spray-wax/

    #83 5 years ago

    Carnuba Wax is hard as a rock, and very expensive.

    So you can't ever have "100% pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax", or you could not spread it, let alone squirt it out of a bottle.

    Liquid waxes are mostly silicone and maybe .01% Pure Carnauba .

    Don't let them lie to you, look up all those "pure Carnauba" liquid waxes on their Material Safety Data Sheets and see that they are all solvents, silicone and abrasive clay.

    #85 5 years ago

    For a deep wax job,maybe once or twice a year I use Meguiars Caranuba.I use this Eagle One once a month otherwise,it does the job for me,when I want to do that fairly quick wax job down the middle and all of my easy to reach places.-Kirk
    Eagle One.jpg

    #86 5 years ago

    Where is the best instructions video on YouTube or similar showing how to wax a pinball playfield? Possibly with pre cleaning instructions too.

    #87 5 years ago

    Ralph Macchio does a good job showing wax technique in an hour and half video that also teaches excellent karate techniques. Not only does he show putting wax on, he covers taking wax off, with the help of a man who is a black belt in waxing.

    ( sorry but I could not pass up this joke )

    #88 5 years ago

    I use the blitz wax from PBL, the trick is to apply it and take a hair dryer to soften up the grainy wax as it melts on the PF. I then let it dry 30 min to an hour then buff with microfiber towel. The key thing when your done and I noticed no one mention it is with any wax, use a Swiffer duster it will get everything off the PF and works great! My high Speed has no mylar or clearcoat and this Blitz leaves it glossy and playing is lightning fast. The key is the Swiffer duster to get residue and dust off the PF!

    #89 5 years ago

    This is what 100% Carnauba looks like. thCA4E8N21-115.jpg
    So if the say it is 100% Carnauba, you should not be able to pour it, or spray it on to any thing. These companies are writing that the carnauba they are using is 100% pure. What is inside the bottle is not 100% carnauba. Even the paste waxes will have some small amount of solvent in them to make the wax spreadable.

    wax.png
    Here is a raw sample.

    #90 5 years ago
    Quoted from Darcy:

    This is what 100% Carnauba looks like.

    174064[1].jpg

    I've been shreddin' 100% pure Carnauba on my pasta for Years now!

    #91 5 years ago

    You may have indeed eaten carnauba wax. Some chocolate companies use in their products.

    #92 5 years ago

    edit: posted in wrong thread. OOPs if you saw it and wandered WTH?

    #94 5 years ago
    Quoted from pinBilly:

    It's a scientific fact, that if you've ever used millwax, you're going to die.

    And all persons who have eaten a carrot will die or is already dead.

    #95 5 years ago

    Ok here is my brand new blitz wax. This isn't right is it?

    IMAG0447.jpg

    #96 5 years ago
    Quoted from aobrien5:

    Ok here is my brand new blitz wax. This isn't right is it?

    IMAG0447.jpg 274 KB

    That's fine.

    You can warm up a spoonful in the microwave if you want it smoother.

    #97 5 years ago

    Hmm. Any tips for not making a huge mess? Warming it will prevent it from clumping so much?

    #98 5 years ago

    Using Mother FX Synwax (synthetic polymer as name suggests), works well, and super easy to put on/take off. In between I use a prepackaged wax cloth called "the glosser" they come 5 to a resealable bag, lots of products available out there....use these same products on my cars so its like one stop shopping.

    #99 5 years ago

    I like to use Novus 2 two coats, then 2 coats of meguiars carnuba and watch the ball fly off ramps

    #100 5 years ago
    Quoted from aobrien5:

    Hmm. Any tips for not making a huge mess? Warming it will prevent it from clumping so much?

    Just put a small clump in one of those little sauce cups you steal from Red Lobster, and micro for 3 seconds.

    It is clumpy because it has so much wax and so little solvent.

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