(Topic ID: 269053)

Surf n' Safari, my first machine! (Maintenance and Care Progress)

By HydrogenHuman

3 years ago


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#2 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Superband Rubbers for the playfield (At minimum I need flipper rubbers because the seller said the left one broke)

I would also get some Titan silicone to try as well as regular rubber. Lots of people have different preferences for these options and they all play differently. My opinion is that super bands look cool, but play like shit.

Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Replacement flipper coils/parts

Unless you know the flipper coils on this game are bad, skip the coils. Get rebuild kits for sure.

Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Replacement Bumper parts

Pop bumper parts? Are these broken? If not they are probably fine and can be improved by simply cleaning. If broken you should be able to get rebuild kits for these too.

Since you’ve purchased a gottlieb the best place to order game specific parts is the pinball resource. They are the gottlieb experts. Call them and they will help you our with anything you need.

#4 3 years ago

Email is what I use. I’ve never called them once. Email is super easy and they always respond quickly and help you find parts if you don’t know the part number.

#15 3 years ago

For gottliebs there is minimal GI. There’s probably less than 20 of them.

#17 3 years ago

Yep. So GI is always on and the lights sit above the playfield. controlled lights are typically all the inserts that are in the playfield and lit from underneath. Then you have flashers. Definitely leave those incandescent. They are too bright in LED.

#20 3 years ago

Flasher incandescent bulbs look great, are cheap and I don’t think I’ve ever seen one burn out.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

So I'd have to get GI LEDs and the controlled light LEDs?

Same LEDs. The game just uses them differently. All the bulbs in your game should be the bayonet type but it’s possible some are the wedge type.

#25 3 years ago

Yes. I believe all the lights in your game are the bayonet type. Those links you posted are right. Not all insert lights need the nonghosting bulbs, but it never hurts haha to get them. Inserts are always the most susceptible to ghosting.

All ghosting is relates to an issue LEDs can have in controlled lighting. Sometimes there’s a small amount of voltage that will go to the bulb when it’s not supposed to be lit and it will cause the bulb to light up slightly. But it’s not enough voltage to light up an incandescent bulb, that’s why they don’t have this issue. Non ghosting bulbs fixes this. Not all games will have this issue though making getting the more expensive non ghosting bulbs pointless. But if you’re unsure, get the non ghosting to be safe. I’m not sure if this games controlled lights will ghost or not, if you were to put regular LEDs in the controlled sockets. But either type of bulb will work in this game everywhere.

#39 3 years ago

Sounds like a good starter pin. Take your time and enjoy!

#42 3 years ago

Removing the balls from these 80s gottliebs is a little weird since the ball release mech is under the apron. What I do it take the glass off, start a game, lock a ball, start MB then grab all the balls and pocket them.

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

What is recommended for lubricating metal to metal on a pin machine?

I use this as it’s the only stuff I’ve used that seems to be a once application and it lasts forever.

Supco CE441 Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8JK2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OfUXEbX55124F

Particularly great for getting spinners to really rip!

But simply cleaning a mech really really well and replacing worn parts is the best thing you can do.

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

2. Clean the entire playfield, ramps, and plastics (if needed) with naptha

I’d skip this and just use novus. A bit overkill and overly conservative to use naphtha. And if I remember right this game has Mylar all over the playfield so novus will work well.

#59 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Would Novus 2 be good at getting rid of the grimy dirt trails along the ramps that are really dug in?

Yep. Don’t expect anything from o make it look like new. You just want all the dirt and grim up and then wax it to protect everything. Anything covered in Mylar is already protected. Just needs the dirt cleaned off with novus.

Naphtha is a good way to remove previous wax and grime to get it ready for new coat of wax.

#62 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I was only nervous about using Novus 2 because since it's arbasive it may wear away the paint on areas where the mylar isn't present.

It won’t. It’s barely an abrasive. Don’t worry.

Use novus 2 everywhere. Novus 1 will clean the actual plastics and ramps well. If they have extra dirt on them that 1 won’t get, use 2.

#65 3 years ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I don't think there's much I can do except try to clean it all with Novus 2 then wax it afterward.

This. Unless you want to do alcohol with ME, repaint, then clear coat, it is what it is. Clean it up good, wax, and enjoy.

#69 3 years ago

Some of the stains in the playfield may remain, but the novus should get everything smooth and clean again.

I agree you should be able to get those dirt trails off the ramps.

#73 3 years ago

2. New rubbers and adjusting the contacts should improve your slingshots.

1 week later
#77 3 years ago

I would’ve done frosted everywhere, but that’s just me.

#80 3 years ago

Enjoy! Remember you can get to most bulbs by going from underneath and unscrewing their sockets from the bottom of the playfield.

3 weeks later
#82 3 years ago

Sounds like it’s coming along! Well done.

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