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(Topic ID: 77715)

Which clear coat to use?


By flashinstinct

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Sheprd
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    So I've made up my mind and will get a turbine sprayer to clear my playfield. Now only thing remaining is to find a great clear. Does anyone have any suggestions? I've started looking into chromaclear but they have a gizzilion options...not sure which one is good???

    Thanks

    #2 6 years ago

    I use Dupont Chroma-Clear 7776S...snap dry....works great, very durable....

    #3 6 years ago

    finitek-3000.

    #4 6 years ago

    Would finitec-3000 yellow overtime?

    #5 6 years ago
    Quoted from flashinstinct:

    So I've made up my mind and will get a turbine sprayer to clear my playfield. Now only thing remaining is to find a great clear. Does anyone have any suggestions? I've started looking into chromaclear but they have a gizzilion options...not sure which one is good???
    Thanks

    I have used both Dupont Chroma clear and now using PPG3000 system. I think over time I am going to like the PPG better. I seems to be alittle softer and I believe it will have better properties between the insert and the plastic. That being said preparation is everything and I have changed alot on how I do my fields. Probably the biggest single change is pulling all inserts and re-glueing with 2 part epoxy and also putting super glue around every edge of every insert as to keep from having both separation and sealing the plastic to the wood.

    This has helped alot especially on classic stern fields which can have problems in these area's. They are both excellent material and you can't go wrong with either. I was first using the longer time hardener and now went with the really fast hardener on the PPG and it works great.

    I went ahead and added a Xenon and Lost World pictures I did with Dupont Chroma. Look at the roto area of the Xenon. Here I did not remove inserts and reglue and super glue edges. Notice alittle "crazing". I did this in 2007.

    If you come to the TPF you will see my Stingray I did with this product.

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    #6 6 years ago
    Quoted from flashinstinct:

    Would finitec-3000 yellow overtime?

    not at all,very durable,better than varathane.

    1 week later
    #7 6 years ago

    Ok so I finally got around to getting my fuji systems Mini-mite 3 Turbine Sprayer. Apparently these guns generate lots of heat. With that said does anyone know how that affect the type of clear you put through the gun. I know PPG offers three types of clear that react and cure to different temperatures. Should I be calculating the room temperature or the temperature that comes out of the gun?

    #8 6 years ago

    I got suggested this product at the autobody shop... anyone ever used this?

    Dupont Nason SelectClear 2K 462-00 with a 483-84 Mid Temp Activator. I used createx opaque colors to do my touch ups and the guy at the store warned me that some acrylic will wrinkle under the stress of the activator...anyone now if createx is stable with this clear?

    http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/nsn/Nason/462-00.pdf

    #9 6 years ago

    I have never used that one, but the most important thing to look at from "my" experience is whether it dries from the bottom up or top down. If it dries from the top down, it gets a skim on the outside and it traps the vapors underneath longer and stays wet against the acrylic longer. May not be enough to hurt it but it could. That is why you always spray a couple super thin coats to seal the acrylic.

    The other problem with drying from the top down is that it can trap the vapors long enough that you get "solvent pops" which are like funnels made in the clear when the vapors build up and escape and make a hole.

    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from BadBrad97:

    I have never used that one, but the most important thing to look at from "my" experience is whether it dries from the bottom up or top down. If it dries from the top down, it gets a skim on the outside and it traps the vapors underneath longer and stays wet against the acrylic longer. May not be enough to hurt it but it could. That is why you always spray a couple super thin coats to seal the acrylic.
    The other problem with drying from the top down is that it can trap the vapors long enough that you get "solvent pops" which are like funnels made in the clear when the vapors build up and Escape and make a hole.

    My intention was to do a very quick spray....wait 7-8 minute of flash time and then do another real light coat. To start and seal the acrylic like you mentionned. The guy said it had a really quick dry time. Not sure about the top down - down up.

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from flashinstinct:

    My intention was to do a very quick spray....wait 7-8 minute of flash time and then do another real light coat. To start and seal the acrylic like you mentionned. The guy said it had a really quick dry time. Not sure about the top down - down up.

    depending on the temperature it may be longer or shorter. I usually check a spot (on masking tape) every few minutes with my finger. When it stops sticking enough to make strings (you will see what I am talking about) then I wait another minute and shoot it again. and keep doing that until I am happy with it.

    1 week later
    #12 6 years ago

    Ok so I got a response back from Dupont about these two products
    Dupont Nason SelectClear 2K 462-00 with a 483-84 Mid Temp Activator
    I've been told to not add Fish Eye Remover to the mix is there any logic to this? or at the very least an explanation?

    #13 6 years ago

    I have never used the fish eye remover. I find Dupont Chroma-clear sprays very well and I haven't had problems with it over acrylics either. I would definitely test it on your playfield first before spraying.

    #14 6 years ago

    I've used the Nason with " Marson Smoothy" over acrylics with no issues. Thin coat first, then another thin, then I let it cure for a day, light skim sand, then heavier coats.

    #15 6 years ago
    Quoted from Sheprd:

    I've used the Nason with " Marson Smoothy" over acrylics with no issues. Thin coat first, then another thin, then I let it cure for a day, light skim sand, then heavier coats.

    When you say thin....you mean just enough to cover the playfield? Like two passes? Then let it flash dry for like 7-9 minutes and then do two more light passes?

    #16 6 years ago
    Quoted from flashinstinct:

    Ok so I finally got around to getting my fuji systems Mini-mite 3 Turbine Sprayer. Apparently these guns generate lots of heat. With that said does anyone know how that affect the type of clear you put through the gun. I know PPG offers three types of clear that react and cure to different temperatures. Should I be calculating the room temperature or the temperature that comes out of the gun?

    The reducer you add to the clear will control how fast the clear will dry depending on the room temperature, just make shure you get the right heat range in reducer for the temperature your going to spray in, I don't think that turbine sprayer will heat up much just spraying a playfield, or do I think hot air would have any effect on your painting results anyway. Are you spraying indoors or out? If you store your clear outside and its cold bring it in the house to warm up to room temp before spraying because when the clear is cold it does thicken causing the gun to clog when you spray it will orange peel beause it wont atomize enough before it lays down.

    #17 6 years ago

    Yeah I intend to spray in my heated garage keeping the temp to about 20-22C or 68-71F. I got myself a half face mask and goggles with a coverall. Can't wait to try this and hopefully I won't mess my NGG playfield :S Will do a few test patterns piece of maple wood before I try it on the playfield. Want to amke sure to get things right before I go on to the main event.

    #18 6 years ago

    I used to paint cars with an HVLP turbine system that blew hot air. Make sure the guy selling you the clear reducer/activator is well aware of the fact that you're using one so you get the proper temperature product. Most pros that they deal with over their counter do not use a turbine. Take the unit in with you if you have too. It drastically changes the temperature of the product being sprayed and will affect your end results. It was a bit of a learning curve for me and my paint guy. Eventually I went back to a standard compressor/HVLP set up.

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from flashinstinct:

    When you say thin....you mean just enough to cover the playfield? Like two passes? Then let it flash dry for like 7-9 minutes and then do two more light passes?

    By thin, I just do one pass. It may be a bit "dry" looking, but don't worry about that. It will flow out and become glossier later when you put on the heavier coats. The initial dry coats give the top coats something to bite into. I let it dry until it's not tacky to the touch, which is more like an hour in warm temps. Then the second thin coat, and then over night. One other thing. I let the acrylic dry for a week or so to make sure it is completely dry. You don't want anything half baked trapped under the clear coat.

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