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I bought a roll of 0.007" 301 stainless spring steel from Amazon (made by Lyon Industries so good stuff). It is more rigid than the blue tempered steel of the original (which I measured at 0.006"-0.007") but still thin enough I think. Cuts pretty well on the paper cutter at work. I'll trim the corners with some titanium scissors and use my #5 Junior punch for the holes: https://www.roperwhitney.com/our-products/no-5-jr-hand-punch-in-kit/
Punch works great, makes a clean perfect cut without deforming the metal. I got a knock-off one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02612A-Multi-Purpose-Power-Punch/dp/B0002T87CW). Hard to argue with the price.
Scissors could not cut my steel although the guillotine paper cutter worked great. I ended up using some heavy duty wire cutters to nip the corners and then sanded them smooth. I didn't get up to a mirror finish on mine - - how did you polish yours? I used 0.007" I might have gone thinner.
Quoted from GreenMachine19:So the stainless spring steel I reference above is 0.010”. Just wondering what the max thickness this will cleanly go through. I use the harbor freight kit that comes with an arbor and polishing wheels with the green rouge. I use the shears available on pinrestore. They work great. I went with 10 mils because that’s what I mic’ed out stock to be
According to the specs it will punch 16 gauge mild steel. Should easily do any ramp flap material.
Quoted from Lamprey:It can be done by hand using a die set and a hammer. Although, that methods works, I'm not a fan of it. Probably because I'm no good at it. You can use a press or a hand clincher/squeezer.
Here is an example of a hand squeezer:
ebay.com link » Hand Rivet Squeezer 3 Reach W 6 Rivet Sets New
I'm using a rivet squeezer it works beautifully. Note though that you need dies for semi-tubular rivets, the ones shown there are for solid rivets.
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