(Topic ID: 209353)

Galaxy GI Relay woes


By Collin

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 80 days ago by Eric_S
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Galaxy Stern Electronics, 1980

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#1 1 year ago

My Galaxy was missing the relay; I got a relay installed, and it worked as expected but it seems to be burning up a little bit ; the plastic base of the relay has melted slightly. And it smells a little Sulphury when the game is on.

Is this likely just a tarnished relay socket causing excess heat? Or....?

#2 1 year ago

Basically just need the relay part #.

Also, I'm assuming I can just move the blue wires back to the rightmost tabs & remove the jumper - if that's wrong, please set me straight

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#3 1 year ago

Socket looks like a standard "2 Form C" layout for 10 Amp relays.
Can you determine what the coil voltage is?
I have 24VDC and 48VDC coils for relays of this size. But you're probably looking at a 120VAC coil.
If it's a 120VAC coil then that would be something like a P&B part number K10P-11A15-120.

And... the more I look at it, it can't be an AC relay -> it has a back-EMF diode on the coil.
Need the relay coil voltage either from manual or measured voltage to get part number.

#4 1 year ago

Ah -- found photo.
*Stern* Galaxy with relay near rectifier board - GI Relay.
Powered from A2J2-2 --> solenoid power.
Use 48VDC relay:
Omron LY2-DC48 or Rayex LB2-48DS

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Ah -- found photo.
*Stern* Galaxy with relay near rectifier board - GI Relay.
Powered from A2J2-2 --> solenoid power.
Use 48VDC relay:
Omron LY2-DC48 or Rayex LB2-48DS

Awesome, thank you!

Where'd you find that info, just for reference? I didn't see it on the schematics.

Great Plains doesn't sell that one by chance, do you?

#6 1 year ago

Bottom of socket shows it to be a 10 amp, "2 Form C" type footprint.
Found connections in Galaxy's standard cabinet wiring diagram. This only shows coil hookup and is hooked to the solenoid board A2J2-2 --> rectifier board's solenoid power output.

I do have both Omron and Rayex relays in stock on the relays page. Since it is socketed, you want the lug lead version.

11 months later
#7 5 months ago

So, I got a relay installed, but it seems to be burning up a little bit ; the plastic base of the relay has melted slightly. And it smells a little Sulphury when the game is on.

Is this likely just a tarnished relay socket causing excess heat? Or....?

#8 5 months ago

Could be wrong coil voltage?
Measure the voltage across the diode.

#9 5 months ago

Having the same issue with a Galaxy I just bought and not sure what to source to replace the relay. GI worked for a month and then one night just stopped. The relay in mine (which is old and inside a cracked plastic case that shows burning - but not sure if this is original part or not) says this on the top:

275-206
Coil 12VDC
Contacts
3Amps 125VAC

I can see there's a wire that's lost its solder and is not connected to anything... but I also see a spot on the plastic box that is melted.

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#10 5 months ago

12V coil. I thought those were supposed to be 48V coils.
Trace back the wiring on the supply side and see which voltage that's connected to.

Also with 3 amp rating on switching. What size fuse is feeding that circuit?

#11 5 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

12V coil. I thought those were supposed to be 48V coils.
Trace back the wiring on the supply side and see which voltage that's connected to.
Also with 3 amp rating on switching. What size fuse is feeding that circuit?

And there is why the relays are burning up. Overheated coils.

#12 5 months ago
Quoted from MrBally:

And there is why the relays are burning up. Overheated coils.

That's what I thought as well.
But -- if you look at the photo, it looks like the contacts wire is burning.
I'm thinking that the coil being the wrong voltage AND the contact rating may be too low as well.

#13 5 months ago

I'll need to see a high quality scan of the schematic from (for example) Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6).....

#14 5 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

12V coil. I thought those were supposed to be 48V coils.

Yep 48V coil relay. See post #4 above.

#15 5 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yep 48V coil relay. See post #4 above.

Yes - that was me that posted #4 above... I wanted to make sure but could not find that picture again.
So I did go through the connection diagram for Galaxy. The relay gets its power from A2J2-2 which is rectifier board, J2, pin 2 --> 48VDC.

Relay needed for replacement:
Omron LY2-DC48 or Rayex LB2-48DS

#16 5 months ago

Friend of mine in another state has a Galaxy that is in awesome condition... I asked him what he had in his, and it is a 48 VDC from Guardian. I assume the Omron is basically the same thing?

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#17 5 months ago
Quoted from JohnEverson:

I assume the Omron is basically the same thing?
[quoted image]

Yup.

#18 5 months ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Yes - that was me that posted #4 above... I wanted to make sure but could not find that picture again.
So I did go through the connection diagram for Galaxy. The relay gets its power from A2J2-2 which is rectifier board, J2, pin 2 --> 48VDC.
Relay needed for replacement:
Omron LY2-DC48 or Rayex LB2-48DS

So, I used the Rayex LB2-48DS from GPE, but had the relay get toasted.
Does seem like you've pointed me towards the correct relay.

I'm wondering if I rewired things wrong.

Anyone got a picture of the wiring going to the socket that the relay plugs into?

#19 5 months ago

Does the relay turn the GI off and on during gameplay? I have a Galaxy and have nevee seen the GI change.

#20 5 months ago

What toasted on the LB2-48DS? There are two sections -- coil and contacts.
Look at the wrapper on the coil -- does it say "48VDC"? It's not like I ever grabbed a wrong relay before...

1 week later
#21 4 months ago

Update on my issue: I put the Rayex LB2-48DS in a week ago and got my GI back! After several hours of gameplay since, everything is working great! Thanks G-P-E!

#22 4 months ago

Hey, just curious. Where did you get your Rayex LB2-48DS from? Great Plains Electronics who comes up on the Google search results says they aren't taking orders currently.

Thanks,
MacJedi

#23 4 months ago

That would be because that Ed character gets overwhelmed with orders from time to time and has to close up to catch up on orders. January/February tend to be the busiest months. Should be back up and running in a few days.
Another option would be an Omron LY-DC48. These cost more but tend to be easier to find.

1 month later
#24 80 days ago

I dug into why my GI relay never worked in my Galaxy. Long story short, the ground wire for the coil was never tied into the wiring harness at the factory. I had to dig into the harness to find that the green wire just loops back to itself. Almost 40 years out of the factory before it finally worked once I correctly wired it.

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