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(Topic ID: 116675)

Where to buy/get this board fixed?


By Kahanaohana

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Robotoes
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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There have been 8 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

DSCF2817.JPG
DSCF2816.JPG
DSCF2815.JPG
2010-05-09_173951_Solder_issue.JPG
connect3.jpg
bi-driver1.jpg
DSCF2814.JPG
DSCF2810.JPG

#1 5 years ago

my Indy poa doesnt work. The motor isnt getting power. This small board under PF has a red light that isnt lit up, I assume it should be lit up. I stuck my probe in the pins and the gry/yellow has 11.9v, the other 4 pins have nothing. Does that mean the board is getting power and is bad? im new to this. Where can I buy this board? If I cant buy where can i send it? I know of Clive but hes usually backed up, any other suggestions? thanks, Scotty on Kauai.

DSCF2810.JPG DSCF2814.JPG
#2 5 years ago

I've had my BSD soundboard done by Keith at ksarcade.net
He does good work and has a quick turn around time. I assume that's something he could handle no problem, but email him and ask. I always got a quick response from him with any questions I had.

#3 5 years ago

Can you do the same measurement but now with the black pen on the black wire. (see pic)
If black GND is not connected, it won't work too.

bi-driver1.jpg

#4 5 years ago

zaza, yes I just tried it your way and it gets 12v. What should those other two wires read?

#5 5 years ago

those other 2 (blue) are from powerdriverboard J126 and when activated, should be zero volts.
It is possible to use a jumper from black to blue (disconnect 126) and cheat the board but be careful because the motor will not stop when the mechanical limit has been reached.

But the LED should be on if there is 12Volt present on this board, I would take it out of the machine and reflow the solder because the LED is almost directly connected to the 12 Volt and a resistor.

#6 5 years ago

ok thats past my comfort level. Can I buy this board somewhere, or get it fixed?

#7 5 years ago

If possible, can you check if the solder of this header is cracked. It would be a simple repair.
Not sure if it is still for sale, part. nr. is A-15946

#8 5 years ago

"header" where is that on board? sorry im new to this.

#9 5 years ago

Chris Hibler is great for board repairs (he's on pinside)

#10 5 years ago

this is what I meant

connect3.jpg

#11 5 years ago

not my photo but this should give you a good idea of what to look for in cold/cracked solder joints.

2010-05-09_173951_Solder_issue.JPG

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotoes:

not my photo but this should give you a good idea of what to look for in cold/cracked solder joints.

2010-05-09_173951_Solder_issue.J... 11 KB

It might not even be that obvious

#13 5 years ago

it looks ok to me, but i dont know anything, heres some pics.

DSCF2815.JPG
DSCF2816.JPG
DSCF2817.JPG

#14 5 years ago

Homepin makes a replacement - if you want to get it from Aus:

http://www.homepin.com/poa.html

viperrwk

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

check if the solder of this header is cracked. It would be a simple repair.

Seeing these pictures, I think it's not an easy repair, looks like it has a history of its own

#16 5 years ago

yup hard to tell from the photos honestly, and I agree with 27 - sometimes not that obvious. better to just re-flow them all.

i would just really encourage you to do a little research and start dipping your toes into learning how to fix stuff. i know from your previous posts that you're in HI, and that it's really hard to get anyone around you to come out/with knowledge.

This forum is a fantastic resource, the people are patient, and will help.

keep your head up!

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