Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lyonsden.
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I have a dead red channel on one of my satellite LED boards for my woz (7.5V). I'm wondering if anyone knows where to buy just the LED. I send in a support ticket and talked to Vic (where I ordered a new board), but he didn't know the part number for just the LED. Given this extra board, I'd like to try my hand with a hot air station to replace the LED.
EDIT: By part number, I mean something other than the JPP part number so I can try to find it on digikey, mouser, etc.
Quoted from dtowndobe:Might be easiest to buy one from JJP first - if they'll sell you just the SMT LED. Not sure if it would have some identification marks on it, but it might...
I asked, they don't sell them individually (comes from their board manufactured pre-assembled.)
Quoted from herg:Since there is a slug under the LED and lot of copper on the board, it takes a lot of heat to flow the solder. The LED body is plastic, so it doesn't take kindly to a lot of hot air. I used hot air to remove the old LED and completely destroyed it in the process. To solder the new LED, I scraped away a small area of the solder mask on the ground nearby the part. I then used an iron on that exposed area and let the heat flow over to the LED pad. The pins were easy after that.
Quoted from herg:I replaced one for a friend, and he bought them from Mouser. They're not in stock now, though:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/AAAF5051-04/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugliyn2FzUcZq839xaPMqTuhfWQU%252bJttn%2fwHgSh20JsMA%3d%3d
Edit:
Looks like Digikey has them, but a good bit more expensive:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kingbright/AAAF5051-04/754-1828-1-ND/4898058
Thanks for the info! The cost of the new board is $20 plus $10 in shipping, so being able to replace the LEDs for ~$6 a pop make sense (assuming it is a crazy hard job to do). With a broken board, I figure it is worth trying.
Quoted from DCFAN:The parts are super small so you will need some skill/experience with the hot air station to do them. Make sure to have a magnifier. After seeing experienced Herg do mine I don't think I will ever be trying to do them myself.
Wise words.
Quoted from louvnj:I haven't talked to JJP about replacement yet, but I have about 10 single board 7.5v GI boards that either have 1 color out, or 1-2 colors that start flickering and then mostly go off after the game has been on for a few minutes. I think a few have been bad for a long time, but they were under the mini playfields or in back by the emerald city where they're not very noticeable. It wasn't until a couple of the sling GI's started acting up that I went in test mode to try and tally them up. Must be heat related, as none of the same P/N board LEDs on the inserts have any issues. 3rd party replacement of the LEDs might be nice for someone to do in the future.
Curious to know which colors are out on yours. Looking at the data sheet, the red channel is rated for a lower voltage than the other two.
Screen Shot 2017-05-02 at 1.57.55 PM (resized).png
From: http://datasheet.octopart.com/AAAF5051-04-Kingbright-datasheet-22122279.pdf
Quoted from herg:The Lumex are all discontinued or out of stock, so I don't see any benefit there.
The SunLED ones seem like they might be worth trying. All the specs are the same other than the brightness (mcd). The color wavelength is the same, but due to the different brightness output, they might end up not matching as well.
I think if I were buying, I'd get the Kingbright, even though they are a bit more expensive. If I couldn't get them, the SunLED would be my next option.
Thanks, Herg.
I ordered 5 Kingbright LEDs and will try my hand a replacing them on my extra board. Also, I noticed a second board with a bad LED (no blue). I'm happy that I hung onto my stereo vision micro-dissection microscope from 20+ years ago and all my forceps (used to have to dissect caterpillars for my undergraduate research job).
Just replaced the LED on two boards and it was much easier than I expected. I'd even put it in the easy category. (This was also my first SMD repair.) Having a hot air rework station,a pair of forceps, and solder paste was all that was needed.
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Tuscaloosa, AL