Might be easiest to buy one from JJP first - if they'll sell you just the SMT LED. Not sure if it would have some identification marks on it, but it might...

I replaced one for a friend, and he bought them from Mouser. They're not in stock now, though:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/AAAF5051-04/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugliyn2FzUcZq839xaPMqTuhfWQU%252bJttn%2fwHgSh20JsMA%3d%3d

Edit:
Looks like Digikey has them, but a good bit more expensive:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kingbright/AAAF5051-04/754-1828-1-ND/4898058

Bit of a bummer, but understood. Not sure why JJP would assign a part number to it unless they're refurbishing returned boards themselves.

Probably won't take long for Mouser to get them.

Herg - any issues with the replacement or was it smooth sailing?

I haven't talked to JJP about replacement yet, but I have about 10 single board 7.5v GI boards that either have 1 color out, or 1-2 colors that start flickering and then mostly go off after the game has been on for a few minutes. I think a few have been bad for a long time, but they were under the mini playfields or in back by the emerald city where they're not very noticeable. It wasn't until a couple of the sling GI's started acting up that I went in test mode to try and tally them up. Must be heat related, as none of the same P/N board LEDs on the inserts have any issues. 3rd party replacement of the LEDs might be nice for someone to do in the future.

Since there is a slug under the LED and lot of copper on the board, it takes a lot of heat to flow the solder. The LED body is plastic, so it doesn't take kindly to a lot of hot air. I used hot air to remove the old LED and completely destroyed it in the process. To solder the new LED, I scraped away a small area of the solder mask on the ground nearby the part. I then used an iron on that exposed area and let the heat flow over to the LED pad. The pins were easy after that.

The parts are super small so you will need some skill/experience with the hot air station to do them. Make sure to have a magnifier. After seeing experienced Herg do mine I don't think I will ever be trying to do them myself.

The forward bias voltage IS lower on the red, but the controller ICs are constant current controllers. It's still possible that they are being over driven, but it's not like they're just giving all three colors the same voltage and hoping for the best.

The Lumex are all discontinued or out of stock, so I don't see any benefit there.

The SunLED ones seem like they might be worth trying. All the specs are the same other than the brightness (mcd). The color wavelength is the same, but due to the different brightness output, they might end up not matching as well.

I think if I were buying, I'd get the Kingbright, even though they are a bit more expensive. If I couldn't get them, the SunLED would be my next option.

Just for reference, this is a typical means of inventory control in electronics. We do the same thing here. Database with our part numbers is cross referenced to manufacturers part. This means if a vendors part number changes, or we decide to buy an equivalent part elsewhere, our part number remains consistent. In some cases we can have up to a dozen vendors with their own part numbers on an approved vendor list (AVL) for a single part that is used in our assemblies.

It's pretty much random which color doesn't work or flickers then stays out. Two or three boards seem to have 2 colors acting up. I tried to make a concrete list of what color is out on which board but sometimes certain ones will work then not work, so it's confusing. In test mode immediately after power up, only LEDs which are totally dead will be out, so in white mode, I get almost everything white. But within 2-4 minutes, colors start flickering and dropping out, to where at least 10 boards have something out. But again, all the inserts stay white and work perfectly, despite being the same exact board. fyi, I bought my WOZ new direct from JJP in Nov 2014 and it is only on when we're playing it and it's on a UPS. I would think games on location would fare far worst than mine, unless there was a group of bad boards at that time.

Gotcha. Thanks!

Nice work.

FWIW, with a steady hand, you can do down to 0805 at least, and sometimes 0603 components with a (small, low power) iron, and don't need to do hot air rework. Stuff like this I do with a Weller WM120 and a set of SMD tweezers. Sometimes that can be a lot easier than trying not to blow half the components around the one you're replacing off their pads.