(Topic ID: 199617)

Where do you stand on removing the mylar trim platter from around pops

By spinal

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by balt
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    Topic poll

    “Where do you stand on removing the mylar trim platters from around the base of your pop bumpers?”

    • Keep them. They are factory original and don't want to change. Plus they must be better than having nothing even for home use. 22 votes
      61%
    • Remove them. They collect dirt, are hard to clean and wear rings into the playfield. For home use not necessary plus looks cleaner as I can see the playfield better. 14 votes
      39%

    (36 votes)

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    #1 6 years ago

    A recent post by the venerable Vic Camp got me thinking about those clear plastic rings around the base of my EM pop bumpers:

    Quoted from Vic_Camp:

    "The clear plastic on the bottom of pop bumper fell apart (dry and brittle) Do I need to find that part?"
    If it is the clear "Mylar Trim Platter" you are taking about.....then I wouldn't worry about installing one. If the game is going to be used for HUO use then it not really necessary since it not going to be played as if it were on route or in an arcade.
    I removed all of these clear plastic Mylar Trim Platter on all my games because I found out through all my years of experience that the ball when rolling over and making contact with the outer edge of the Mylar Trim Platter it ends up presses down and pushes through the clear plastic outer edge into the playfield leaving a ring wear mark that is horrible.

    I was about to order more new ones but then thought... why? Dirt gets trapped underneath, they cover up the playfield art, they are hard to clean and the dirt and edge of them wear the playfield.

    Q: Where do you stand on removing them for good for home use?

    Here are pics from my Abra Ca Dabra showing the wear from the edge of the ring:

    image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

    image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

    #2 6 years ago

    Since my games are at my house and not on location, I remove them. They will never be played enough to have a problem

    #3 6 years ago
    Quoted from spinal:

    Here are pics from my Abra Ca Dabra showing the wear from the edge of the ring:

    Now just imagine the amount of ball wear you'd have there if the rings had never been applied at all. It would likely be bare wood all around them.

    I *might* not replace them on a freshly clear-coated pf on a game I thought would only receive a few hundred plays in the next ten years... no wait, A) I don't own games like that, and B) I'd sleep alot better knowing they were protected.

    On an original EM pf without clear-coat, never.

    #4 6 years ago

    I get rid of them whenever I overhaul the pop bumpers unless it is on a very low play, or home use only from the beginning collectable machine.

    #5 6 years ago

    Being able to buy solid ones would be nice, I've been saying that for ages. Protects and makes games with solid colors around the pop-bumpers (or not!) with wear look amazing. Even if it covers a design it's hell of a lot nicer than wear and would look like it was meant to be there.

    #6 6 years ago

    Are these the adhesive or non-adhesive ones we're talking about?

    #7 6 years ago

    Non adhesive I say remove them ...adhesive I say each to there own but I would probably keep them as probably do more damage removing them

    #8 6 years ago

    I had a collectable pin that I didn't want to use the adhesive type on. I experimented with non-adhesive Mylar protectors and rubber cement. Time will tell, but so far so good.

    Begin reading here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-1970-double-up-minimalist-restoration/page/3#post-3074972

    If the pop bumper protectors are adhesive and coming up, then I might remove them. I don't like the non-adhesive variety but if you feel like experimenting, buy some new non-adhesive pop bumper protectors and try the rubber cement trick. I doubt if rubber cement would hold up on route, but it just might in home use.

    #9 6 years ago
    Quoted from Pecos:

    I had a collectable pin that I didn't want to use the adhesive type on. I experimented with non-adhesive Mylar protectors and rubber cement. Time will tell, but so far so good.
    Begin reading here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-1970-double-up-minimalist-restoration/page/3#post-3074972
    If the pop bumper protectors are adhesive and coming up, then I might remove them. I don't like the non-adhesive variety but if you feel like experimenting, buy some new non-adhesive pop bumper protectors and try the rubber cement trick. I doubt if rubber cement would hold up on route, but it just might in home use.

    That thing is so rare you don't need mylar pop-bumper protectors you need grandma's couch protectors.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from Otaku:

    That thing is so rare you don't need mylar pop-bumper protectors you need grandma's couch protectors.

    I've got a friend's Abra Ca Dabra at my place currently and he put a full playfield protector on it. Looks and plays great, no concerns about further wear.

    #11 6 years ago

    Since your playfield is already worn around where the outer edge of the ring is, you could replace them with new ones. Either the adhesive ones or the original style. Depending if you are planning to remove the pop bumper assembly. The adhesive protectors are in 2 pieces and can be placed on the playfield with the pop bumper in place.

    There use to be adhesive wood grained ones, they didn't really blend in. They were a light tan not really a yellowed playfield match.

    #12 6 years ago

    I replace them while rebuilding the pops. The line is already there and this helps hide it if anything.

    #13 6 years ago

    I replace with non adhesive when I rebuild the pop bumpers on Gottlieb games. I keep my games clean so there is no dirt to get under them.

    #14 6 years ago

    Where do I stand?

    Usually on one side of the game or the other while I rip those suckers out.

    #15 6 years ago

    Speaking of Vic Camp, he cut colored mylar to put over the wear around the pops so he didn't have to paint them. Could hardly tell until he mentioned it. Genius!

    #16 6 years ago

    Remove non adhesive ones. Clean play field,wax,then install adhesive ones.
    Play field clear coat? No trim platters.

    #17 6 years ago

    I definitely remove the old ones if they are all dirty and worn. I will probably replace them with something, I think new non adhesive or adhesive ones depending on if I want to take the bumper assembly apart.

    #18 6 years ago

    If they are non-adhesive, remove the mylar trim platters and do not replace them. Clean the area under the pop bumper and then apply two or three coats of wax. The machine will play faster and with regular waxing, you won't see any playfield wear under the bumpers.

    If they are adhesive, and the mylar trim platters are in good shape, just leave them. Clean them with Novus 2 and they should be fine... If they are in bad condition, heat the mylar trim platters with a heat gun and slowly pull up on them. Clean the area under the pop bumpers. If the paint lifted, touch up the paint and do not replace the mylar. Apply two or three coats of wax under the pop bumpers.

    The machine will never see as many plays as when it was on route, so there won't be an issue with playfield wear under the pop bumpers with regular maintenance...

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from Otaku:

    Being able to buy solid ones would be nice, I've been saying that for ages. Protects and makes games with solid colors around the pop-bumpers (or not!) with wear look amazing. Even if it covers a design it's hell of a lot nicer than wear and would look like it was meant to be there.

    First choice - touch up and clear.
    If too far gone - I use the adhesive ones - spray paint them, then rattle-can clear for added color protection.
    Like you said - looks better than the damage they cover.

    #20 6 years ago

    If they are loose floating rings they are gone. I don't care how clean you think your game is if they are loose it would likely be better you had nothing at all. Put the adhesive ones on once and your done.

    And yes the ring is needed imo.

    #21 6 years ago

    I remove loose ones, wax and then apply adhesive ones.

    If I'm restoring a playfield, I always put new adhesive Mylar around the pops, or the pop pit.

    #22 6 years ago

    On a case-by-case basis, I have often removed full playfield mylar but kept the pop rings. In either case, if the mylar is in great condition I leave them be.

    #23 6 years ago

    I really don't think it matters which type of mylar you use in the home setting as, worn or not, it will no longer get commercial location type usage.

    I prefer using some type of clear mylar after cleaning as there is some reflection, (pop-bumper lite on or off), which helps in hiding minor imperfections from touch-up or wear.

    #24 6 years ago

    So does that help, Andy? You got every answer and some in between.

    #25 6 years ago

    Hi Mike, yes thanks for all your responses everyone! Very helpful to know where the community stands on this topic especially when there are different viewpoints.

    I'm just into my 2nd year now so learning from you all one thing at a time, one day at a time (thanks). Case in point... Just noticed the bumpers are incorrect for my ACD should be green circular rings on them - ARG!

    2 years later
    #26 3 years ago

    I had trouble finding this thread, so here are some additional key words to help the search engine:
    acetate shield, trim platter, mylar full circle, pop bumper playfield mylar.

    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFC
    https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8246

    mylar (resized).jpgmylar (resized).jpg

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