(Topic ID: 92948)

WTB Paul Drabik's playfield support rails for Safe Cracker?


By Pinballer22

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 44 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by retrosys
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Looking to buy a set and haven't been able to track down the way of ordering them....anyone know?

#2 5 years ago

Wannapinball.com has his contact number

#3 5 years ago

Thanks njg

#4 5 years ago

Bump....paul is out so does anyone have any they would sell?

#5 5 years ago

Did he give any indication that he might do another run down the road?

Mike O.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Did he give any indication that he might do another run down the road?
Mike O.

He said if he had enough interest he would make some in 6 months

#7 5 years ago

Bump...having my pf cleared and would really like to install these prior to that.

Anyone have multiple pictures of them that I could possibly remake a set for myself?

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Bump...having my pf cleared and would really like to install these prior to that.
Anyone have multiple pictures of them that I could possibly remake a set for myself?

I made some myself for my game before Paul did his but his were an upgrade so when swapping my playfield I went with his. You can repopulate the playfield before installing them so once your ready for them just map out the screws and nuts and drill accordingly. Hell, at that point a new run may be ready to go.

not as fun as it looks..
84.jpg

2 weeks later
#9 5 years ago

Are those simple boxes?

If so, what material, and what size?

Can't be all that hard to get the material and simply cut to size/length.

All you really need is a saw and a drill press.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from litz:

Are those simple boxes?
If so, what material, and what size?
Can't be all that hard to get the material and simply cut to size/length.
All you really need is a saw and a drill press.

The layout on these is critical. And there is some machining that has gone into getting them to fit just right.

I hesitated on the first run Paul did due to the price. I made sure I got in on the second run. To see the front to back playfield bow disappear as you install them is a thing of beauty.

Mike O.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from litz:

Are those simple boxes?
If so, what material, and what size?

The rails need to be machined (notched) to clear playfield assemblies and brackets. The aluminum tube Paul used has a heavier wall thickness than what's typically available.

I'll PM you if I can find any information from my installation.

Steve (in Escalon, CA)

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

The layout on these is critical. And there is some machining that has gone into getting them to fit just right.
I hesitated on the first run Paul did due to the price. I made sure I got in on the second run. To see the front to back playfield bow disappear as you install them is a thing of beauty.
Mike O.

I think I bought his last set in Allentown this year. Paul did a great job planning and constructing to avoid any under playfield obstacles. Hopefully he does another run for those who need them, quality product for a pin that really needs them. As MikeO said, to see the bow disappear is amazing (and mine was pretty bad)

#13 5 years ago

Would love to find a set asap. Made some for the cc process of my pf and pf should be back this week and want to wait until I find some before I put the back together

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

Would love to find a set asap. Made some for the cc process of my pf and pf should be back this week and want to wait until I find some before I put the back together

Contact Paul. I already had a friend of mine get on his wait list. If the list grows faster he may be motivated to put out a batch sooner than later.

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Contact Paul. I already had a friend of mine get on his wait list. If the list grows faster he may be motivated to put out a batch sooner than later.

Already did and should be on the list. Did that before starting this post in hopes of someone having a set laying around they did use

#16 5 years ago

morning bump...pf should be here in the next couple days but afraid to mess with it until I have the braces in fear of cracking the clear

#17 5 years ago

I did message him, but haven't heard back yet.

The notching/machine doesn't bother me ... was really just wondering the size of the box (3/4, 1 inch, etc) and wall thickness, and the overall total length.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from litz:

The notching/machine doesn't bother me ... was really just wondering the size of the box (3/4, 1 inch, etc) and wall thickness, and the overall total length.

I'll try to measure tonight from my game.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

morning bump...pf should be here in the next couple days but afraid to mess with it until I have the braces in fear of cracking the clear

Keep in mind these were designed to be installed after the underside is populated.

#20 5 years ago

I think he's just concerned with the Cc cracking before the rails arrive.

Have you ever looked into small support blocks attached to the cabinet? Not sure if it would work but seems like a better option if so

#21 5 years ago
Quoted from tilt-master:

Keep in mind these were designed to be installed after the underside is populated.

However if you have a blank pf and install them to make it perfectly flat it would be the same result or better I would think. That way it would not start bowing once it gets repopulated

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

I'll try to measure tonight from my game.

Thanks!

I'm not that bothered by the material itself being "thicker" that what is "commonly available" ...

To me, commonly available = whatever McMaster-Carr stocks ...

(not what's @ home depot or lowes)

There isn't much, period, that McMaster-Carr doesn't carry.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from litz:

The notching/machine doesn't bother me ... was really just wondering the size of the box (3/4, 1 inch, etc) and wall thickness, and the overall total length.

Material appeared to be 3/4" OD square aluminum tubing with 1/8" thick walls.

Most of the connections are a big hole on the bottom side through which you can approach the screws into the playfield.

On both sides are a couple of notches to avoid the spinner assembly or a rollover switch bracket or a tnut.

They run basically the full exposed length of each side.

#24 5 years ago

Cool .... that's enough to work with ...

Looks like this is the material ...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#88875K52

#25 5 years ago

How would you contact Paul directly ? Thanks Shane

1 week later
#26 5 years ago

I was alerted to this thread and truly appreciate the compliments on the product.

I did work with a machinist friend with a business to cut these professionally, so there is a middleman that holds the program to cut these. I don't get involved with purchase of material but his selection has been very good as all the positive feedback indicates.

I will admit that pinball is my living to pay the monthly bills ...
8 yrs as a genuine business now. Yeah! and it is growing.

So, at this point I will start to make a list as I a few did contact me.
Please confirm your interest, if you would... even if you have already contacted me and I will find out
my options to produce more. I have already done 3 runs of these and so he will know that I am a
good customer.

Thanks.
- Paul Today is July 8 2014

#27 5 years ago

Count me in for two sets

#28 5 years ago

I'm good for two sets

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from WannaPinball:

I was alerted to this thread and truly appreciate the compliments on the product.
I did work with a machinist friend with a business to cut these professionally, so there is a middleman that holds the program to cut these. I don't get involved with purchase of material but his selection has been very good as all the positive feedback indicates.
I will admit that pinball is my living to pay the monthly bills ...
8 yrs as a genuine business now. Yeah! and it is growing.
So, at this point I will start to make a list as I a few did contact me.
Please confirm your interest, if you would... even if you have already contacted me and I will find out
my options to produce more. I have already done 3 runs of these and so he will know that I am a
good customer.
Thanks.
- Paul Today is July 8 2014

Any idea of when you will be running them? That will give me a better idea if I am in....hate waiting No I have bought some part to make my own but am sure yours are a lot better and would prefer yours

#30 5 years ago

Btw...Paul is one of the best tech's out there. Can't say enough good things.

#31 5 years ago

I will ask my friend who owns a SC (that I am babysitting) if he wants a set, and if so I am in.

Talked with the owner, I am in

#32 5 years ago

I will buy a set.
Thanks

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

I will be a set.
Thanks

See the rails, be the rails.

#34 5 years ago

For all interested ... I was able to confirm that additional sets of rails can be produced.
It will probably be a smaller run, depending on the number of people on the pre-order list.
This would mean that the priority at the machine shop will be lower and the cost a bit higher, I am told.
He said over the next 2 months should be doable but I will need to put up a deposit. Of course, that is my responsibility.

Anyway, sending me a PM would be best for me to track who is who. (MadMaxDad...are you Jeff?
Providing your shipping address for me to track would be helpful too along with email.
Thank you!
- Paul

#35 5 years ago

How much does a set cost (rough estimate).

I do not even own a SC but will likely get one at some point in my collecting.

I would be willing to buy in now if the price is right and it willl help bring the cost per set down a little???

4 weeks later
#37 5 years ago

To all ...
I am placing a small order for more sets today.
A few have reserved some and so I PM'ed you the details to confirm.
I will have about 5 remaining sets for those that might be interested.
Let me know.
- Paul Today is Aug 8 2014

2 weeks later
#38 5 years ago

Manufacture completed ... so these are now available for those that may be interested.
Thanks.
- Paul Today is Aug 23 2014

4 weeks later
#39 5 years ago

Do you have any of these left? I would like to buy a set for my safecracker, please let me know asap, thank you, Jordan

4 months later
#40 5 years ago

I finally got around to installing my Safe Cracker rails the other day. I posted pics and story on my blog and website.

https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/installed-safe-cracker-pinball-support-rails/

http://www.pinballsupernova.com/safe%20cracker%20side%20rail%20install.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Website: www.PinballSupernova.com

Blog: http://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pbsupernova?ref=hl

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYkP5URZoS8NApETWc7uBmA/feed?view_as=public

7 months later
#41 4 years ago

After reading the posts on this subject, I picked up some SC rails from Paul Drabik last weekend. At usual, Paul was a pleasure to deal with. When I got the rails home and unpacked them, I could see the excellent fit and finish, with obvious attention to detail.

The pictures and comments that others have posted served as a good reference for me. Having said that, here are some additional observations and notes on my installation experience.

I've seen mention of some people removing the playfield from the game, in order to install the rails. I didn't find that necessary, using the method outlined below.

I used a pair of clamps with rubber pads to set and hold the rails. When I added the first clamp at one end of the rail, I looked at the other end and could see the playfield had a bow of around 5/16". Not bad, but not something I wanted to leave as-is.

Clamping that other end brought the playfield flush with the rail. When clamping, only pick spots with a wood rail, leaving some clearance around the screw holes. I hope this is obvious, but don't clamp on any playfield plastics.

Before going any further, triple-check placement of the rail and make sure the spot labelled for the short screw is actually below a spot where no wood rail is above it. It is marked but verify everything, as this is an installation that you want to get right the first time.

If you are experienced with wood projects and hand drills, I recommend pre-drilling the holes with a 3/32" drill bit, using masking tape 3/4" from the tip of the bit, to act as a depth gauge. Do one hole at a time, then install and tighten the screw before moving on to the next hole.

Do the short screw last, and make sure not to drill that hole as deep!

YOU MUST DRILL STRAIGHT. Any side-to-side angle may cause the screw to poke out! If you are not handy, get help from someone who is.

Use a nut driver to start the screw and follow-up with a small rachet, especially in hard-to-reach spots. Fully tighten, but don't over-do it.

When all done and lowering the playfield, check to see if the playfield fully seats in the lock bar. If it doesn't, one of the plastic cable-management loops on the left-side wall of the cabinet may be in the way. Unscrew it and let it hang, then try again. If the playfield sits well, you can either screw the loop in a lower spot in the cabinet or just leave it unattached.

This is a highly recommended item to add to your game and one that should be done earlier rather than later, as the playfield bowing will likely get worse over time, without the rails.

Minor critique: It would be good if the left-side rail, which has an indentation for the adjustable outlane post, extended that indentation a bit, to accommodate any post setting. I'm sure a bit of work with a Dremel could fix that.

Steve

1 year later
#42 2 years ago

Anyone have a set of these for sale? Thanks.

2 weeks later
#43 2 years ago

I also want to buy a set for my safecracker .Thanks in advance
Willem

1 year later
#44 5 months ago

please contact him, maybe he makes a rerun ...

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