After. Makes it easier to remove it the next time it needs to be replaced...which could be never...

Never unless it is going on location

Not true. Even in home use unprotected (that includes clear coats) high-impact areas can be damaged. Around magnets, in front of kickers, around pop bumpers, at ball drops, in front of eject saucers, etc., etc.

The myth that wear doesn't happen on HUO games, is dangerous misinformation.

This.

You might end up with an adhesion problem putting mylar over a waxed playfield.

As long as it's real wax and not some liquid silicone "wax" it will be fine.

Every playfield I have is waxed, then Mylared.

Just looking at it from a bodymans point of view. We don't do anything to a car over wax.

I use Blitz wax. Then Mylar. Works great.

You want to be able to remove the Mylar in the future.

If you don't wax first, you may not be able to do so without damage.

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Just like on a truck, you wax before you apply the graphic wrap - so that the wrap can be easily removed for the next promotion.

That's totally different from what a body shop does.
If we waxed before we put those transfer stripes on, they would peel off while you were driving down the road.

Sure, because you want those stripes to be permanent.

We DON'T want the Mylar to be permanent, because it wears out and needs to be replaced.

Ok, you guys are worrying me now. I have a clearcoated TAF and Pinbot. I only put Mylar spots under ball drops.

I'm now considering putting Mylar rings around the pops. Should that be sufficient, or should I get the game specific Mylars that go in the pop bumper areas?

I have Mylar in all of my games that have pop bumper nests. You don't need game specific, you can buy your own Mylar and make your own patch, it is not hard

I am going to politely disagree with this. I have been collecting games for 16 years. I have high end restores from some of the finest in the hobby. Some of these games have a couple thousand of plays. I host leagues and have kids. I have no damage that occurred because of lack of mylar. Cliffy protectors for ramps, ball drops, eject holes need protection. However, I feel mylar has its own set of issues as time progresses. For home use, it is my opinion that if the balls are changed and the game is kept relatively clean it is not needed. To each his own. I realize others experiences may differ.

All those people with WOZs in their homes that wore around the pops sure wish that JJP had installed Mylar.

Yes, they sent out decal kits to "repair" the damage - but all the new WOZ have Mylar.

WOZ_Wear_(resized).jpg

WOZ_repair_(resized).jpg

When it came out Monopoly did the same thing at that first bumper the ball hits coming out of the orbit loop. Not as bad though.

My question had more to do with whether the rings sold on the parts sites cover the potential damage area or whether a larger piece is needed to cover the entire pop bumper area, regardless of whether I make it or it's game specific.

I would cover the entire pop pit area.

Those pre-cut Mylars are for quick and dirty protection.

I'm reassembling my HEP restored Indiana Jones playfield(s). Will I apply 3-mil mylar around the high wear areas of the game? I think so, regardless of the quality and hardness (or suppleness) of the clear coat.

Reason: I want to protect my investment and increase the longevity of my playfield(s).

To each their own.

Greg

I mylared the entire playfield of a panthera. It looks good but plays a little slow. I havent had to take mylar off of an entire playfield yet but I gave it a few coats of wax first so I hope when it needs to be changed it comes off nicely.

20160530_213231_(resized).jpg

Ahh Panthera. Nice job. Some would say extreme but gotta have protection around that gal for sure!

Damn fine job, OKarcades! My Black Hole and Mars God of War were full playfield mylared when I bought 'em in 1983. Wish I could say the same for my Haunted House(s) and my Spirit.

Would have saved a lot of expense down the road.

Greg

3 MILs is pretty thick. It doesn't want to contour to any dips the field might have or develop. If any of the inserts sag, or dish, or whatever you want to call it that thick mylar is going to develop a 'bubble' or rather an unstuck place over the sagging insert. I like 1 MIL because it is thin enough to form to any variances in the playfield surface. However, the fields I do are probably a bit worse for wear than a collection piece.

If you would have rubbed some flour and goo gone or alcohol around the edges of the Mylar it would have pulled that dirt right up. I did a police force like that.

As for the Mylar I wax first for certain.