(Topic ID: 64846)

What's the best riveting option (quality and value?)

By westofrome

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Dewey68
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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    Topic poll

    “What's the best value in riveting tools?”

    • Pinbits pressless riveting kit ($10) 2 votes
      9%
    • Arbor Time Third Hand Rivet Tool ($80) 7 votes
      30%
    • Action Pinball Factory-Style Hand Rivet Tool & Die Set ($190) 3 votes
      13%
    • Pin Restore Rivet Press ($198) 5 votes
      22%
    • Other 6 votes
      26%

    (23 votes)

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    #8 10 years ago

    I have a Tatco clincher (the best but pricey), a press (modded Harbor freight) and made a tap punch out of round stock to hold the rollover die for large pieces.
    When I see pop rivets that is a sure sign a hack has been working on the game.

    http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&ProductID=185&List=1&SortField=ProductName,ProductNumber

    #10 10 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    I love you too.

    I hate removing those things when I restore games especially when the plastic is made of unobtainium.
    I always cuss the person that did it, you have to hold an ice cube on them while you grind since you can't drill them.

    #13 10 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    Wasn't aware of that, but that's a lot better than calling me a hack when I have no other option because I can't afford a ridiculous rivet press, or have ANYWHERE to put it.. =|
    So far, the only thing I've used it on was the standup clear plastic behind the STTNG drop target and the Command Decision plastic, so haven't had to remove any, and shouldn't for a good long time..
    I did learn about melting plastics though, my drill bit got hot enough drilling the old rivets that the old crappy plastic started to melt LOL.

    If you hold the drill at a slight angle sometimes the rivet won't spin and the ice cube trick is the way to go when you have to grind them.
    A pair of Vise Grips or Channelocks works with tape on the jaw that goes on the face of the rivet works in a pinch, the rollover doesn't look pretty but it works.
    I think quite a few of us have melted a plastic removing them the first time so welcome to the club.

    #26 10 years ago
    Quoted from cpsystem3:

    I unfortunately need to poo-poo on the Pinbits tap-riviet kit. It was IMPOSSIBLE to get those stupid rivets to hold. I tried "light taps with a small ball hammer", as recommended by pinbits. NADA, no "roll over" on the rivet coller. I then upgraded to WAILING on the rivet (fearing the entire time I'd crack the NOS ramp I was installing light domes on). Wailing got it to stay in place... until you sneezed on it. Seriouly, if I even touched the "attached" rivet, the stupid thing would let go. I tried using a good 5 or 6 different rivets thinking I had one or two defective parts... not the case.
    I can absolutely NOT recommend these to anybody. If you don't want a rivet press, stick with pop-rivets.

    Add another push nut to the rivet if they go on crooked or you beat them on too tight and deform them they won't hold.
    Pop rivets look like ass and can break your plastics there is no control on the pressure.
    You can use a drill bit or center punch to start the rollover and finish it with a flat punch if you don't have a clincher.

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