I used some of the little squares that come on the PF glass I cut one in half and put the two pieces between the wood rail and the ramp and a small piece on top of the post above the two stand up targets to take the flex out of the ramp.
I put one in the pic so you can see it
Adjusted the shooter and the forks on the autolauncher now it makes it every time and the ball doesn't do the rattle.
I made some protectors out of PET-G for the plastic behind Hulk and the one behind the T cube.
I took the clears off the BW ramp and adjusted it so the ramp that lifts planes out with the stationary ramp.
Relocated the spotlight and removed the reflectors and used 1/2" shrink tube to lower the profile so I can see the pop bumper cap behind them
Moved the target to the right on the Hawkeye loop to open it up a taste by loosening it and putting a shim under the right side.

cartmod_013.jpg cartmod_014.jpg cartmod_015.jpg

Couple more pics.
I also adjusted the switch under the floorplate in front of Hulk and adjusted the spinner switch and lubed the spinner.

cartmod_017.jpg cartmod_019.jpg

You just bend them a little.

In this game, you absolutely want to avoid the pop bumpers unless you're in multiball. The number one drain sequence is out of the pops, bounce off the right rubber, out left outlane. I don't get why people want the auto launcher to go "all the way". If anything, never let the game auto launch - nit when locking balls, not on ball save. Always short plunge and shoot an actual flipper controlled shot.

Tweaks I did for game play :
- move lock targets to back to free up fury target
- fix and drop target banks that won't reset properly
- spacer up bw ramp plastic about an inch to avoid rejects
- slow the ball dropping from bw hole into hulk saucer to prevent bounce outs
- raise the left ramp plastic to prevent ramp shots bouncing into outlane
- add LEDs under inlane switches to I can see lane change lights easily
- regapped the flippers using the white flipper gap tool

My hulk worked great and I didn't have to adjust that. The entire list above can be completed in about 45 minutes minus the moving of the lock lights. That takes about an hour.

I also added some mods but I don't consider those necessary for game play. But zdoor's tesseract mod is really a nice enhancement.

This is the only issue I have left, but in my case it looks like the auto launcher was installed too close to the wooden lane. It's actually denting the wood and completely jumps the ball sometimes (before it even gets to the ramp). Plunger is no longer an issue, but auto-ball launch is only about 60% success rate.

Hoping this is a minor adjustment but if anybody else has had this issue with AV or any other Stern any suggestions would be appreciated.

Great notes, tracelifter.

I tested with the BW bridge plastics off, but the ball was too wild. I found as long as I raised them (with 4 washers I think, whatever I could fit), it gave me the clearance I needed for nice smooth BW shots.

I'm also testing the Loki lights moved to on top of the hellicarrier on the left side of the game. Which clears the view of all 3 SHIELD shots and Ironman. With Loki moved there, he is in front of the red flasher, but you can still see the red glowing all around and behind him. I'm just trying to decide if its a good spot. I can't put him in the left corner like a Pro since there is nowhere to mount him and I don't want to make permanent changes to the game by drilling holes or something. I think the red flasher will be less important once my teseract mod has arrived, since that red flasher is used mostly during teseract.

I bought the replacement plastics for the Loki inlanes, from this thread:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-avengers-sling-shot-mod-see-your-inserts-clearly

Also, I moved the outlane posts in, and placed an extra one on the right side so there are no balls getting caught.

I also reduced some of the difficulties of the modes, like BW is now easy/easy, ironman is easy/easy. They still take a lot of shots to start and complete, but at least I have a fighting chance.

This is basically where I put him also and like it that way. I think you made a good choice. I think I used the right screw on the flasher dome (right when looking from the front of the machine) to mount the loki lock.

This is what I did with the Loki Lock plastic, I can see the Ironman and shield target inserts and it is still by the lock.

lokilock_007.jpg lokilock_010.jpg

Relocated the light boards for the Avengers inserts so they light up fully and evenly.

HInserts_004.jpg HInserts_006.jpg

I saw my old hulk today, now tracelifters lol. I can attest to this adjustment. Looks better and you can actually read the character names clearer. The biggest difference I noticed tracelifter did was loosening the BW spinner. That thing flies forever like a spinner should.

The spinner was a brick and I was getting too many rejects, it screams now and the ball jams up the BW ramp.

It played fine with them off until I tweaked the spinner then the ball went wild off the ramp, I had one trap between the cab side and the left ramp sidewall.
I put them back on with the spacers.

What exactly did you do to the spinner?

Tweaked the actuator arm on the switch and lubed the axle and face of the arm with Eezox.

I think he bent the switch leg a little to allow more breathing room for the spinner to spin. Then greased it up for speed. What was the stuff called you used tracelifter? I want to order some.

Funny I was about to ask the same question.

For the Loki lock, I tried the top screw but ball launches would hit it. Does this only work with the shims on the ramp? Or maybe the lower position just works better.

http://www.eezox.com/

A micro drop is all you need of this stuff, a wet toothpick does it.

If you watch it you will notice the ball doesn't actually hit it, the flex in the ramp just makes it look that way.
Use a longer screw to raise it and a Cliffy post sleeve for the riser.
I bent the mounting tab to the back to move it closer and to hide the screw.
Wrap the Jaws of the pliers with electrical tape so you don't scar the rivet or plastic when you make the bend.

Would you mind posting pics of the wiring you did under the playfield and of the mount in the new location? This is my next project.

Aside from previously mentioned performance adjustments , I switched the white and red pop bumper caps, so the red is visible and the white is the one not visible. I preferred this to the pop bumpers mods that are for sale. I get the red and blue lighting, which was more important to me than the CA shield art. And my mod only cost a few minutes, not $50.

Another tweak you may want to do is adjust the mag pole under the floorplate if it isn't flush with the PF.
This one is almost punched through so if your MP is high you may want to adjust it before this happens to yours.

HFP_001.jpg HFP_002.jpg

Tonight's MAJOR tweak:

image.jpg

Tracelifter, I see where the the one piece goes above the 2 stand up targets but I'm not clear on where the other goes. Is it against the plastic ramp on the other side? I'm having a heck of a time with rattle and inconsistent ball travel and wanted to try this.

Thanks.

The other two go on the wood rail under the ramp between the plastic and the rail.
Look at the pic, they are black on one side and white on the other you can see the white line on them in the pic.
I took the one off the post in front of the targets and pulled the sleeve and slid a spacer down on the post and replaced the sleeve so now the plastic rests on the sleeve.

Ok, got it, thanks for the clarification. I see the ones in the photo now. And this solved your issues with the shooter lane huh? Hopefully it will work for me. I've tried everything I have found on Pinside, but nothing really worked that well. I was starting to think the metal ramp in the shooter lane was the problem, as the ball kept coming off of it inconsistently, hitting the left side and such. I will give yours a try and see what happens. Also going to try your trick with the spinner.

Thanks for your help!

Thanks Tracelifter, your trick with the pads really helped. I also put some nylon washers under the post rubber to bring that up and support the bridge plastic. Thanks for posting your fix.

Now I'm waiting on Eezox to try on the spinner. I'm hoping that makes a difference to the smoothness of the ramp shot.

Thanks again!

One last tweak before I load this game up for PAGG I heated the legs on the flasher domes and bent them so the domes don't flop around on the plastics.
Stern really dropped the ball on this game and rushed it out the door without enough testing and attention to detail.
Some tweaking is to be expected but this is over the top for a 7K game.
They had to know about the problems but chose to box them and ship them as is.
Doesn't get me too exited about the next games coming down the line.

I know, I really don't get it. They could have had a hit if they would have taken the time to make sure it was good. It should be common sense that you put out a good product and word of mouth will spread raising the bottom line. Of course, I don't have all the info, but that's my opinion.

how do you get 550M on an avngers?
I can't get 100M

You've mentioned this a few times Mark, but I can honestly say I have played 100s of games on my LE and this has never happened. The ball has never gone anywhere near the left Outlane.
It just rolls down nicely down the face of the right sling. If it does hit the post, it comes to the right flipper.

My mate has a Hulk and it doesn't happen on his either.

Are you sure your back right leg isn't adjusted a little low?

I'm constantly hitting the pops for CA and have never had a problem.

Anyone else have any feedback for Mark?

rd.

It happens on mine a lot, too. I'm always prepared to nudge. Thing is, the pops are only useful for collecting CA and bonus X, otherwise you short plunge. Seems strange that as hard as it is to get bonus from the top rollovers via 6 lights, they give it away like candy at the NF. A better idea for that award is increased pops value or just "complete bonus X." so it finishes the current rollovers. Hopefully the next software update tames the bonus insanity.

You basically keep the ball from draining and hit all the shots. Had 120M in bonus on one ball. About 80M of it carried over in a bonus hold. After you complete characters your bonus starts getting crazy. I was also raping the nick fury target for random awards, many which increase your bonus.

Could have been alot more. I made a stupid decision and drained. Don't get cute (post pass) when you've been playing a game for a loooong time, have a great score but you're already frazzled. At that point, roll with the game, which is going your way. I rocked the boat and sunk it.

I almost completed everyone. I was a couple shots away on two characters from qualifying Battle for Earth. It was quite exhilarating. I honestly cannot understand how anyone can think this game sucks.

Mine will hit the right sling about 1/2 the time. It can drain left if it does...but a nudge an stop that.

I agree that code needs to change on the pops. Not worth anything before or after CA is qualified/collected.

That's the strategy for Avengers at present.

Rape Nick Fury. Now that sounds wrong .....

Seriously though, that's the strategy. Hit the mystery for bonus X and bonus hold.

As TFA says, when you collect Avengers the bonus increases massively for huge bonus collects.

rd.

Yea but you still have to do something to earn bonus to multiply. Completing the avengers really is the key. Plus shooting nick fury is sort of a sucker shot.

I agree 100%. I do try for it more during multiballs now, after that input by phishrace. Just so happened I had a massive game too, but I was collecting and completing everything like a mad man, which is what I attribute the bonus to mostly. Still no idea how it calculates. Stern should really explain this clearly. Have they?

Im having an issue with post lane hang ups now. Does the screw fix impact the post at all? Can that post move? Or can the lane plastic move to be narrower? Never had a problem, and now routine hang ups there.

No point having huge Bonus X when you have no bonus to X.

25 x nothing = nothing ...

rd.

rotordave - I don't have that issue either but I do have a pro so it may be slightly different.

TFA - The screw fix doesn't do anything to the post itself. It's just is a sticker that goes over the screws.

I got a sticker but it doesn't appear to match that area. It's rectangular with a notch out of it?

I got a sticker but it doesn't appear to match that area. It's rectangular with a notch out of it?

Sounds right.

First pic shows what that piece should look like installed (mine was done at the factory).

Second and third is to try and help with your ball hanging issue (everyone keep your mind out of the gutter please). I never noticed how tight that lane was above the post. The ball touches both sides of the lane. I'm betting your problem is the plastic that I'm pointing to is not sitting flush anymore with the shooter lane ramp and it causing your hanging issue. That piece is lose on mine and over time I could see it bending out a bit due to the ball hitting the tip of it on Loki shots. Check that plastic and the one to the left of the post to make sure they are spread apart as much as they should be.

post_4.jpg post_5.jpg post_6.jpg

Actually, the post lane hang-ups are caused by the blue plastic to the left of your finger being shifted to the right. Loosen the screw where the thumb is in the picture and push the plastic to the left and re-tighten. That will open up the width so the ball will not get trapped.
You have to hold the lock-nut that is underneath the plastic with needle nose pliers (or something similar) while loosening and tightening the screw.

I am really thinking of trying to purchase The Avengers. But all these modifications are giving me cold feet. It least There are many of you pinsiders to learn from if I end up getting this very cool pinball. But it looks like a pain in the ass.

Possibly. Possibly not.

My blue LE had no major issues at all. I do want to tweak the BW ramp though to make it smoother.

Oh yes, I did tweak the ball shooter too. That was just loosen three screws, adjust, tighten. No different from what you need to do on most pins.

Even if you had to do **everything** in this thread, they are all simple tweaks. Nothing major at all.

And if you buy a late model NIB one, Stern probably tweaked them in the factory.

All the above posters (including me) got LEs from the first batches.

rd.

Man I love you dudes! I'm gonna see if I can fix that lane in the morning! I looked and looked but wasn't sure what to try. Vette and DC, thank you!!

Btw, if you love pinball and are pretty decent at it, I think you'll like Avengers LE and it will be a long time keeper. I haven't played ACDC in a week, cos I just can't stop pushing start on Avengers. For me, it's that good.

Think about it this way...my hulk has broke twice, my shooter lane needed adjustment, I installed the plastic to help with saucer bounce outs...and yet I'm clamoring for help on my latest issue because I don't want to have to stop playing it. Even though i have 4 other games including tfle and acdc. It's that good.

And until this recent ball hang issue, it was playing sweet. No problems after all the tweaks. Hopefully DC and Vette have fixed my lane issue and ill be back in the saddle, jamming on Avengers.

I went with 2" rubbers on the slings and adjusted the switches now no ball hangups on the inlanes and less outlane drains coming down from the pops.

Hulk_Slings_003.jpg

"Jealous of my Mod Spiderman!"

image.jpg

I added a Hulk button today, the light taps into the coindoor lights and switch wires to the floorplate switch.
Works great, just push the button when the ball goes behind his arms.

Hulk_Button_006.jpg