So what are you running on your 1992 windows computer now?

I don't use one because computers have gotten better.

Then I suppose you don't use old pinball machines from the 90s because they have gotten better too?

That exchange reminded me of this.

Comet has a flex fisher iv used before that tones stuff down. I just bend it to face away from the player toward the back of the machine. You get a really good flash effect with out it being right at your eyes

This cracked me up, Windows was pretty shit even then, totally get the point though. I run full LEDs except flashers under a clear dome or in direct line of sight then I stick with incandescent.

Hey, I still have my Windows 1.0 something Beta Discs!

They haven't, but the bulbs have

Maybe you are rich. Like those who dug up all of those games Atari buried in the landfill.

How about throwing a finger cot over the flasher, looks like Walgreens stocks them.

Not to mention new incandescent bulbs are ass with the lifespan of a mayfly.

Best diffusers for LED flashers are incandescent flashers.

Amazon sells "stencil paper" which are thin sheets of plastic that are opaque. Depending on where you want to place it this could work. It's cheap and thin.

Have you tried other bulbs? The $.99 bulbs here are still quality but less output

https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/12v-bulbs

Oh doh, that's a tough one. Glad you're getting it worked out.

There is a 4+1 SMD flasher with a bayonet base in that link

A 12V 5 SMD Flasher is about as bright as an incandescent. However because they are completely differently, a 5 SMD, depending on Location, Cap, and eyes, can appear brighter if a diode is direct in place. If a 5 SMD is too bright, Id stick with Incandescent.

(There are also Conversion sockets from a 15mm Bayonet Base to a 10-15mm Wedge, allowing any 12V Wedge bulb to work, which has more choices. See if Ryan still has some, if it helps)

Yup, I mentioned this 9 days ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-to-use-to-diffuse-led-flashers#post-5258689

The 5 LED tower will be fairly dim for playfield insert mounted flashers as you are effectively only seeing the top single element of the flasher.

Anybody tried applying a dab of hot glue over the led part? Or maybe mixing a drop of white acrylic with 2 part epoxy and put a blob of that on top?

Sorry about that. I didnt realize that was the position of use specifically in topic.
What do I know, anyway?

Easy enough to miss in the rush of posts and I phrased it a little different.

I love experimenting with LED's, I bet I have dropped at least $500 on them in the last 3 months. Easy enough to do when some games have upwards of 200 lamps! Haunted House has 55 in the backbox alone.

That sounds like a good idea. I'm going to have to try this also.

If they are SMD based bulbs there are SMD lens covers that go right over the SMD. I haven't used them, but have seen them and was curious.

https://www.amazon.com/Hukai-100PCS-WS2812-APA102-WS2811/dp/B07HYXKKKC/ref=sr_1_4

I tried this . Not sure if it will.difuse the brightness but will definately change the color.

20191027_171153 (resized).jpg

I don’t mean any disrespect, but why pay a-lot more for brighter LED flashers? Then spend time/money to dim them to match cheap incandescent bulbs. I love LED bulbs. I put them everywhere. But LEDs are not ALWAYS the answer.

Good question. I wish I knew where to buy less bright LED flashers. One good reason for switching might be if a transistor locks on, a LED probably wont melt a hole through a insert. But I think maybe the point of the thread is if the LED flashers were made with domes like 555 's , they would be perfect .

I linked to comet's bulbs, they have 12v bulbs which use different elements, diffuse the light differently and have different lumen output. You could replace your flasher sockets to use wedge or bayonet.

https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/12v-bulbs

I've used almost all of those and they are all great.

Another option is modifying the spots/flashers to use lower voltage and then you can use regular lamps. I've done this on JJP games, I assume it would be similar on most other games that use 12v but I can't say for sure on flashers, only really done it on spots. Just use a DC buck board inline or at the source. I don't know enough about electronics to say for sure, maybe someone can chime in to confirm.

I’ll probably get some eye rolls for my fix but I can assure you it works fantastic and is about as easy as it comes. I cut a strip of printer paper and doubled the thickness and then scotch taped it under the insert. It cuts the brightness down but doesn’t affect the color. Only takes a couple minutes and completely reversible.

03370557-D086-4561-ABE0-07E14E9EA9B2 (resized).jpeg

B8F708B2-B2BC-4D65-9F88-8C48B76B1F56 (resized).jpeg

This. Less melting and FAR less frequent replacing of bulbs

I agree. I was not going to do LEDs on any game, then I got a few and saw the results. They just look crisper, as you said. It's the whole LCD / LED debate on colorDMDs... personal preference.

I think that is as good of a solution as any. I have used the opaque stencil sheets (plastic) to do the same in other uses. The nice thing with the plastic is you can spray paint it so you can use any number of tinted or semi-transparent sprays to affect the result.

Good idea

IT seems like a gigantic hole in the market to provide a solution like this - either build into /glued onto the bulbs themselves, or as an aftermarket choice. Somebody mentioned bulb condoms for flashers - that's pretty much what this would amount to, but generally you could just sell a one-size-fits-all opaque, colorless cap.

Could probably print something. Would have to test it for a while and see what the heat buildup is like. Sadly, not all flashers are the same size/design so it would be more than one size.

I stumbled on this thread while trying to decide how to fix two issues I had with the led flashers in my NGG. The ones over the ramps were too bright, especially at the beginning of multiball, and most of the ones under the playfield were dim and hard to see because they are mounted parallel to the insert. I printed clear and white caps and they make a world of difference for both issues. My upper flashers are now more in line with the brightness of an incandescent but with the crisper white I like and my under playfield flashers show up. Here are some results from my playing around.

Intensity of the light at different angles from the face of the bulb. The lenses do a good job of making the led bulb act like a traditional.
LuxChart (resized).png

Overhead Comparison_smallersize (resized).png
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20191223_132024 (resized).jpg
Trap insert before lenses
NGGTrap_BeforeLens.gif

Trap insert after lenses
NGGTrap_AfterLens.gif

If anyone else wants to print some to try out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4081423