(Topic ID: 310277)

What to think about Mylar on a CC'ed playfield?

By GILV

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by GILV
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

Hey everyone.
I bought a clearcoated TZ a few months ago and I was wondering if I should or not apply mylar on different parts of the PF.
I'd like your thoughts on the question because I'm really not sure I should do it or not.
Here's what I wanted to buy:
ebay.com link: itm

Thanks.

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from GILV:

Hey everyone.
I bought a clearcoated TZ a few months ago and I was wondering if I should or not apply mylar on different parts of the PF.
I'd like your thoughts on the question because I'm really not sure I should do it or not.
Here's what I wanted to buy:
ebay.com link: itm
Thanks.

I'm not a fan of using mylar on a new or cleared playfield. Mylar is difficult to remove, is obvious to the eye, and sometimes makes play less smooth, depending on the thickness of the mylar. New or cleared playfields that are cleaned and have balls changed with appropriate frequency will last a REALLY long time in a home environment.

If there are specific areas prone to wear, consider Cliffy's / metal protectors for high wear areas. Lastly, if you're really concerned you can get a protector that covers the entire playfield. They're made by a German company and can be removed. It's a bit of work to install them, but at least they're removable.

This is a personal preference - there is no absolute right or wrong. Enjoy the new playfield!

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from GILV:

Hey everyone.
I bought a clearcoated TZ a few months ago and I was wondering if I should or not apply mylar on different parts of the PF.
I'd like your thoughts on the question because I'm really not sure I should do it or not.
Here's what I wanted to buy:
ebay.com link: itm
Thanks.

You will get mixed reactions on this one. I personally have put down mylar on 7 year cured CPR clear coated playfields, but only in specific spots I knew were subject to wear and very carefully. Specifically, I put down mylar around the pops in the Attack From Mars I did a playfield swap on, and in the Stroke of luck. I wouldn't mylar everything.

#4 2 years ago

I would. Those are still high wear areas. You can always remove them but you can't walk back surface damage without a lot of headaches.

#5 2 years ago

Unless it is going on route dont do it. It has ample protection for home use.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

You will get mixed reactions on this one. I personally have put down mylar on 7 year cured CPR clear coated playfields, but only in specific spots I knew were subject to wear and very carefully. Specifically, I put down mylar around the pops in the Attack From Mars I did a playfield swap on, and in the Stroke of luck. I wouldn't mylar everything.

I agree.
And quality material mylar is almost invisible, and removal is not as hard as original mylars.

#7 2 years ago

Curious about responses.
Recently picked up a diamond plate Rollergames that had new mylar applied.
Did a damn good job but probably didn’t need it.

#8 2 years ago

if you prep the areas where you are placing mylar shouldn't be an issue!
thinking the paint comes off when applied to an uncured playfield !

#9 2 years ago

Nope, no way on a home use machine.
It’s like putting 2 condoms on for your wife.

#10 2 years ago

I personally mylar around the pop bumpers, as this is an area that usually isn't highly visible, and consequently can also be a difficult area to keep clean. With a quality cured coat, even this is probably unnecessary. A search of pinside will tell you most new PF issues (even repros) are with chipping and pooling, and not wear which mylar is designed to address. A nice NOS playfield will already have mylar, and probably doesn't need it.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Nope, no way on a home use machine.
It’s like putting 2 condoms on for your wife.

Well, in the case of my ex-wife, that would have been a smart idea!

#12 2 years ago

Thank you everyone for all of the advice, I sincerely appreciate it, but, I'm still at the same point I was in the beginning because of the 50/50 , yes/no inquiries I got from you guys. I think I'll just wait a few years to see what will happen and then I'll decide.

#13 2 years ago

I put mylar in the high wear areas. Wax first before putting it down, so it can be removed easier later.

Personally, I do everything I can to protect against damage and wear for as long as possible.

#14 2 years ago

If it’s cc then I don’t

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I put mylar in the high wear areas. Wax first before putting it down, so it can be removed easier later.
Personally, I do everything I can to protect against damage and wear for as long as possible.

Second.

#16 2 years ago

I doubt it’s necessary on a new cc in a home environment. But myself being anal retentive I probably could not resist a little bit on high wear areas like ball drops etc. certainly not a whole pf Mylar though

#17 2 years ago

I would put mylar in select areas, such as where the ball drops from the ramp on the left inlane, at the scoop entrances, and the rocket launcher. I would put cliffy's on too.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

I doubt it’s necessary on a new cc in a home environment. But myself being anal retentive I probably could not resist a little bit on high wear areas like ball drops etc. certainly not a whole pf Mylar though

I picked up funhouse some years back with a cleared playfield, but it had developed an unfortunate dent with cracks in it from a ball drop before I had gotten my hands on it (the steps exit in the left orbit). There was no mylar there, unfortunately.

#19 2 years ago

You mention clear coat on your TZ but not what level or by whom. The clear coat provided on reproduction or NOS playfields is essentially Diamond Plate. It is better than nothing but will wear accordingly. Aftermarket or professional clear coat that was applied by HSA, Kruzman, HEP, myself and others is much different and will last indefinitely without mylar under home use.

I have been using professionally clear coated playfields for about 20 years, my first being a TAF done by Playfield Renovations. With 20 years of home use, it still looks as good as the day I installed it. I have had similar luck with my HSA playfields and now do them myself. It may not be necessary, but I do still use cliffy protectors on games with drop holes.

I usually put a small circle of mylar on areas that balls drop onto, i.e. wireforms that drop near slingshot areas. I don't think it's necessary but I do it out of habit. Otherwise, there is no need for mylar anywhere.

#20 2 years ago

It's automotive clear coat, 6 coats. I have a few small spots with mylar, mostly where the ball drops, the rocket shoot, and in front of the scoop but I wanted to add mylar in front of the slings, the pop bumbers and maybe in front of the flippers as well.
I'm still thinking about it.
Keep them coming in......

#21 2 years ago

I wouldn't do any more. It's amazing how durable that stuff is and 6 coats is plenty.

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from GILV:

but I wanted to add mylar in front of the slings, the pop bumbers and maybe in front of the flippers as well.
I'm still thinking about it.
Keep them coming in......

In my opinion - Don’t do these. Not necessary and will negatively affect ball travel and game play.

#23 2 years ago

In every restored or brand new clear coated playfield I have installed in my games, I always make sure to install Mylar on known high traffic areas: pop bumpers nests, ball drops under ramp exits, scoop ejects, and other areas known to wear quickly.

It’s cheap insurance and provides an easily removed sacrificial barrier down the road.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from akvgc:

I wouldn't do any more. It's amazing how durable that stuff is and 6 coats is plenty.

Thanks. I'm leaning more on keeping the PF as it is and your comment helped a lot, I use Ninja chrome balls, so I'm not that worried about wear, and up to here, I have'nt had any magnetized issues yet, so I'll keep the Ninja balls in there.
Thanks for all of the comments.

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