(Topic ID: 186631)

What to look for when buying Jurassic park Issue wise


By rtotans

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by rtotans
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#1 2 years ago

I'm about to buy a Jurassic park. Is there any known issue to watch out for? Or any common pinball issue ? Also, is there a test you can do on the pinball. ( I just don't know how to test. I see the test button, just don't know what to do after hitting test, what to look for. ) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Pinside. Also was wondering the same for Mnemonic pin as well. (Obviously the glove)

#2 2 years ago

T Rex functionality, broken ramps plastics, pf wear, board issues (especially the board in the cab below the pf. Almost all of em have had rework done to the pf falling on em)

#3 2 years ago

If the power supply board hasn't been replaced plan on doing that and reflowing solder on the boards for t-Rex!

#4 2 years ago

def. check if trex works correct, pita!

#5 2 years ago

make sure t-rex will move side to side. many people have it disabled in software as the gearbox is often damaged and expensive

#6 2 years ago

T-rex should self test at power up. Check to see that all coils work, corrosion on CPU from battery leaks, burnt GI connectors, voltages and connectors on power supply, shaker motor functionality...

#7 2 years ago

All of the above and bad fuse clips. Best to replace all of them and be done with it. More of something you'll have to do if it hasn't been done than an issue to look out for.

#8 2 years ago

Understand and research DE/Sega Version 3 board sets based on manufactured games of the 1991-1994 period. The DE CPU 3 board is a non-reflexive board is much different than previous versions on several coil driving transistors for switchable coils. This is beyond standard TRex motor assembly and it's PCB control board which is one of the game's Achilles heels. More than the side to side action, other components break in the jaw. Too many amateur repairs and bad operator hacks at this point since 1993. All other standard game "watch outs" apply, such as outgassing displays, plastics, ramps, scoops, and kick out saucers. The kick out Trex saucer is generally equally chewed from scoops. Other areas including the motor brush wear out and the shaker motor fuse board which gets colder solder joints due to vibration. The gun handle assembly is hard to find and the I don't know if the "smart missile" button has been reproduced. People sometimes used this handle as a "lift assembly" and unlike BLY/WMS gun handles, it just immediately can get cracked.

I can list a lot more, but that was a baseline.
PM if you have more questions or require a game assessment.

This is includes the other title, JM, that I have owned since 1996.
That is a great game, with a handful of completely different problems, but usually beyond the glove and X/Y nuts, and motor, including cracked ramps due to speed shots and missing components such as signage, Crazy Bob and the Phone Matrix board which classifies as plastics. The cabinets are generally nuclear blasts of yellow versus red.

#9 2 years ago

Look underneath the cabinet for missing wood.

#10 2 years ago

trex
plastics
boards and conetors

everything is fixable, but rex motors cost
plastics are reproduced but in a too dark color i believe
boards are most of times power suply issues but replacements available and fuse holders

if the price is right and the playfield nice go for it

#11 2 years ago

Thanks for everyone's responses. I did buy it. Of course I was changing all bulbs to LED 's. As I was doing it, (with the machine on) I hit some medal and short circuited some bulbs on the PF. Any suggestions? Could it be a blown fuse, or something else I need to look at.

#12 2 years ago

You will be fortunate, if it was just a fuse.
I hope it works out.
First rule people seem to break upon owning machines.

#13 2 years ago

Check fuses.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from rtotans:

Thanks for everyone's responses. I did buy it. Of course I was changing all bulbs to LED 's. As I was doing it, (with the machine on) I hit some medal and short circuited some bulbs on the PF. Any suggestions? Could it be a blown fuse, or something else I need to look at.

hi there, not to be mothering you or annything...just wanna keep you save
be careful underneath the playfield and backbox there at some high voltages that can shock you and destroy stuff!

#15 2 years ago

Been there, done that - working under the pf with the power on.

I actually knocked out a GI column. I was able to trace back to a blown transistor. Turned out to be a 5 min, $0.25 fix. A pretty cheap fuse when you think about it. Could have been much worse.

Do you have schematics and a digital voltmeter? Hopefully a very simple fix for you.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

Been there, done that - working under the pf with the power on.
I actually knocked out a GI column. I was able to trace back to a blown transistor. Turned out to be a 5 min, $0.25 fix. A pretty cheap fuse when you think about it. Could have been much worse.
Do you have schematics and a digital voltmeter? Hopefully a very simple fix for you.

I bought one a while back, must learn how to use and fix things, lol. I'm a rookie, lol. I learned my lesson, and will now keep my game off while doing things. Hopefully not an expensive lesson.

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