Find a donor cabinet like Pete said. This is probably the most prolific Gottlieb cabinet size/style out there in the donor market.

I actually salvaged a Gottlieb Gemini this way about a decade ago. I didn't even get the body cabinet as it was so waterlogged it was mush. Besides the complete head and playfield, the rest of the parts came to me in a box. Still got it running.

1967 to 1975 will be safe. You're looking for where they eliminated the ball lift and had the broader neck. From King of Diamonds (1/67) on to about Gold Strike (11/75).

The few exceptions to this would be the baseball/football theme games in this era that had the auto plungers and even then all you would have to do is install a hole for the shooter rod. Otherwise single or multiplayer bodies are basically the same.

Well done so far.

Painting is all in the prep. So if you have the cabinet solid and flat then defects won't show through the paint, even though the company(ies) that Gottlieb got their cabinets from were not always perfect.

The next part is to get the sheen to look right. Often when painting it might look like you have coverage but when viewed in the proper light you may see that the coverage and the sheen is inconsistent. The sheen is based on the paint you select - semigloss is what I would choose and assume you did as well.

What your picture shows is you have the prep and paint application/sheen down correct.

Unless there is damage to the red star play field inserts I would leave them alone. This is one area where the enemy of good is better.

And I saw only one mylar pop bumper ring. You have two pop bumpers and need two of these.

He has both the red playfield inserts and the white stars included on his list.

The reason to leave the red star inserts in place is more the chance that you damage the playfield along the way or the new ones don't go in well. Why mess with it?

Unless one or some of the tabs that keep the star rollover pin in the insert are broken off and the insert does not actuate well. That would be a reason to consider replacing them.

Again, the concept of the enemy of good is better.

For the effort you are going to rebuild the pops and flippers.

For pops you need two each of coil sleeves, metal links, fiber links and plungers.

For the flippers you want two each of coil sleeves, coil stops, and plunger/link assemblies. Inspect the flipper bushings and replace if the flange is split. If not you should be fine with the originals.

One special touch I apply to flippers is to throw away the 1/8" head set screws and replace them with 8-32 x 3/8" socket head cap screws. Not sure if PBR sells them but you can get them in the specialty drawers at your local Ace or True Value hardware store. Once you break off one of the originals in the crank arm you will swear off using the originals ever again.

This is the minimum that will insure best operation.

I have one if it turns out you need one.

I'm with Ken on this one. They aren't so precision that you can't bend both of those back into place.

You may have to disassemble that flat plate to get to it but you should have no issue getting both of those straight. And I would not hesitate to address them with this approach if they were in my own game.

Is it a right hand or left hand?

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Way to go, Mark. I bet it works fine for you.

The fuse you solder to the breaker doesn't matter since it needs to be an open fuse. So a blown 15A is fine to use.

PBR sells them. Called "Nylon Gliders" for $0.25 each. Listed under tools/supplies on their webpage. Or you can by something similar intended for the base of kitchen chair legs at the big box home improvement stores or hardware stores for $2-$3.

Regarding the pop bumpers its your call. Does it look good to you? Then that's good enough.

I'm interested in your opinion on the playfield protector. I thought about trying one until someone commented that you have to remove the bagatelle wire forms to install it. No way am I pulling those to protect the playfield. Pulling them can damage the playfield and they never go back in as snug as they were originally.

And in the picture of your pop bumper coil brackets - I would invert the position of the solder tabs so they are away from the stop end which I believe would match the orientation from the factory. You don't want the solder tabs near the stops to minimize vibration. Granted, the flipper coils do not comply with this approach. If there were enough length on flipper coil wires I would flip them around but there is not.

The perfect paper would be a card stock with a slight gloss. You will probably have a hard time finding the slight gloss.

Color would be an off white. Keep in mind the cards you see on games have aged.

Print with laser jet.

Two fiber washers underneath each bar at the base of the post.

Above the top left corner of the coin door.

E2E looks right. An extra coat would dial it in if needed.

I don't know how you could get those colors closer. Well done.