(Topic ID: 257317)
Ann Arbor, MI
I assume 6-32
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-32-acorn-nut-natural-nylon.html
But personally I would switch them all the chesterfields, can't stand acorns on SS games.
Quoted from undrdog:What was original ? Chrome?
No crappy plastics ones that strip out.
Quoted from wdennie:No crappy plastics ones that strip out.
I've never had a plastic strip out yet.
Personal preference, but I to color match on most of my machines. (especially my Bally's)
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-32-acorn-nut-natural-nylon-colored.html
I have not tried the metal colored nuts yet... bit too high-priced for me.
Stainless would at least match the posts that show chrome above their rubbers.
$20 for a box of 100 at Amazon. Plus 7 shipping. Also comes in nickle.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Cap-Nuts-Box/dp/B00AM0XGJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Quoted from undrdog:Stainless would at least match the posts that show chrome above their rubbers.
$20 for a box of 100 at Amazon. Plus 7 shipping. Also comes in nickle.
amazon.com link »
You could do yourself a favor and get the Titan post caps in any color you want!
Those things are fantastic.
You’ll regret those stainless the second you have to remove your plastics and they get all jacked up...
Depending on the game/art/plastic, and any protection used,
the decision would be between plastic and metal.
When I use nickel or Zinc plated acorn nuts, I never over tighten, and have disc protection below, and
sometimes a washer on top.
Ebay has a nice bag of 50 for $6.95 including shipping.
With Wikibuy and Ebucks, $6.80
ebay.com link: Fifty 50 6 32 Nickel Plated Acorn Hex Cap Nuts BCP240
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:You could do yourself a favor and get the Titan post caps in any color you want!
Those things are fantastic.
You’ll regret those stainless the second you have to remove your plastics and they get all jacked up...
Can you give me a link for the Titan post caps, please? I see star posts and double star posts and the silicone rings and lot of other items but I cannot locate post caps at Titan.
Thanks.
I couldn’t find it there either.
Was all set to get a bunch of stainless, but I didn’t think about them getting stuck on he bolt. Maybe I’ll stick with nylon.
Quoted from cottonm4:Can you give me a link for the Titan post caps, please? I see star posts and double star posts and the silicone rings and lot of other items but I cannot locate post caps at Titan.
Thanks.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52
Or PBL for cheaper
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-post-cap.html
I think that the rubber push-on style of plastic retainers is the correct style for this era of Bally. I also like this style as they are quick and easy to remove and the rubber will allow the plastic to "flex" a bit as opposed to coming up against a hard nut.
I personally prefer the look of whatever was original to the games. While I hate the aggravation of taking off the Palnuts on Gottlieb games (using the Palnut removal wrench helps tremendously), the chrome nuts look best and most appropriate to me.
Quoted from TheLaw:But personally I would switch them all the chesterfields,
CF (resized).jpgQuoted from GSones:I think that the rubber push-on style of plastic retainers is the correct style for this era of Bally. I also like this style as they are quick and easy to remove and the rubber will allow the plastic to "flex" a bit as opposed to coming up against a hard nut.
I personally prefer the look of whatever was original to the games. While I hate the aggravation of taking off the Palnuts on Gottlieb games (using the Palnut removal wrench helps tremendously), the chrome nuts look best and most appropriate to me.
1979 Bally = 6-32 plastic nuts
1981 Bally = Rubber Barrels
If it already had the plastic nuts I suspect that is OEM, bag of them is cheap enough at PBR. Most pictures I have looked at show the white plastic nuts.
To add onto what many have said, 6-32 was original, but I change them to the rubber cap that way when an errant ball whacks the plastic from underneath, all that happens is the nut gives way instead of the plastic corner chipping. It also makes it extremely easy to change rubbers and clean under the plastics.
Quoted from slochar:To add onto what many have said, 6-32 was original, but I change them to the rubber cap that way when an errant ball whacks the plastic from underneath, all that happens is the nut gives way instead of the plastic corner chipping. It also makes it extremely easy to change rubbers and clean under the plastics.
yup, what he said!
But the stainless looks so good! Maybe just not tighten them down all the way.
At this point I only have one machine, so the prospect of having to get out a nut driver to change an occasional rubber or lamp isn’t so bad.
1 week later
Quoted from undrdog:But the stainless looks so good! Maybe just not tighten them down all the way.
At this point I only have one machine, so the prospect of having to get out a nut driver to change an occasional rubber or lamp isn’t so bad.
Never had one come loose on any of my games, just tighten snuggly, and I usually put a washer under then.
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