Start a game with the glass off.
Stick one end of your jumper wire inside pin 8 of the J5 connector so it's touching the red-black wire crimp terminal.
Put and hold the other end of the jumper wire on the metal tab of Q16.
Knock all the drop targets down. Does the drop target coil now reset the drop targets?

Please ignore my previous post and wait for me to come back.

I need to find more info on the Alltek board - they use MOSFET transistors, not the TIP102 transistors as used on the original Bally solenoid driver boards.

Just checking, if you didn't know which tab I was talking about in your previous post #52, then which tab did you check for continuity (and discovered a lack of) to J5 pin 8 on the previous page? Just want to make sure you checked the right thing.

Q16 only has one tab which is at the top. The other two Q16 connections at its bottom are legs.

The picture linked below I posted, points to the Q16 tab you needed to test continuity to pin 8 of J5.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-side-to-hook-up-wires-on-a-coil#post-5045337

Cool, ok you can try what I mentioned in post #51 above. Let's see what happens. Jumper wire inside pin 8 of J5 and the other jumper wire end on the top metal tab of transistor Q16. Does the coil now activate when it should?

Great, you found the problem!
Pull that solenoid driver board out and have a look on the back for an obvious burnt trace going to pin 8 of J5.

Can you post some pictures of the back of the board and draw an arrow to approximately where Q16 is? The top metal tab of Q16 connects to J5 pin 8 via traces that run on both front and back of the board so need to see where those traces run.

Looks like you found it.
If you have a desoldering station, suck the solder out of that burnt hole. Scrape the green paint off the front and back area of that burnt through hole joint. Insert as thick a single strand wire that you have through the hole and solder on front and back of the board. This is the neatest least obvious way to fix it.

If this sounds difficult, then find a way easiest for you to reconnect the top metal tab of Q16 to pin 8 of J5 (I just noticed Alltek call the connector P5 not J5, grrr)

Interesting read. I'm surprised they didn't run multiple vias on high current traces.

Alltek will also replace your board at a discounted price. But you have come this far and you have done a rectifier board so this should be simple. Then you can stand back and be proud as you watch your wife enjoy her pin.

And to Quench with all the good information and the pics with the stuff written on them was top notch.

Those through hole vias look tiny. Not made for the average Joe to service.
Bally didn't use that many jumper wires with their single sided design in that area..

Solder a jumper wire (use same gauge as going to coil) to the transistor leg and then the other end to the under side of the jumper pin effectively replacing that entire trace via and all. Route it neatly and use a dab or two of hot glue.

Its more hacky looking but will get you running and really, how often to you stare at your boards? If it bugs you enough, when you later on get a desoldering iron you can easily undo it and repair neatly with Quench’s method.

Check for continuity from J5 to the coil (game off of course). Also it may be that the transistor was also bad so with good continuity confirmed you’ll want to recheck that.

Do all the targets register a hit then producing a signal to reset?

Oh ya, easy stuff first lol... also what about coil test?

I'm still feeling like it's a signal thing. But I don't know which wire and there is no chip on the new boards. I'm just an apprentice at this stuff hopefully a journeyman like Quench chimes in.

I'm having similar issues with my drop targets on Contact and wondering if its a setting issue also. They drop and register hits, just don't reset after all 4 have been dropped. They do reset after each ball/start of game tho.

After everything proved I would think it's got to be a signal issue

Maybe push or reset the chips or one got damaged with the voltage. Unfortunately past my level

I was thinking the same. There's design guidelines for via current handling (via size, thickness of metal plating, is the hole filled?). When I'm working on a design, I always toss in extra vias for redundancy just in case the board vendor doesn't quite get the plating right...

You might be able to see if there's a pulse on the base of Q16 (see blue arrow). Really need a scope, but maybe it's slow enough to catch on the DMM. ~0.7V will turn on Q16.

If your DMM has a diode setting, you can check CR16 (power off). ~0.7V one way, open when reversing the leads. Sometimes tricky 'in circuit' since you can get false readings.

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That proves the coil has power and is good, but doesn’t demonstrate the path to the transistor is good. Sounds like you did good getting from the transistor to the pin. Now just continuity test all the way from the pin to the coil to get the rest of the circuit. Then you can rule out that whole path and focus on the transistor up. Mbwalker’s suggestion is what I would look at next if I had a logic probe. Otherwise maybe its configuration as someone else suggested. The software may not even be trying to fire that coil using that pathway.

Sometimes when it something blows it takes out a whole chain of things unfortunately and sometimes a problem is a culmination of issues. Defeating the tricky ones is always a rush tho.

So now with all you have done does the coil work in diagnostic test?

I believe he said it still doesn’t. Knowing the pathway is good, was the transistor itself ever confirmed ok?

To rule out config I’d be halfway tempted to try connecting to different open coil pins to see if maybe the game is driving it with a different than expected driver.

I don't think he did it after continuity fix.

Get a new coil if it locked on too long. Send your board back to Alltek and it is a fraction of cost for a new one.

In fact get a new coil

I don't think I would go down that path yet. But I won't be able to go thu all the postings until the morning. No need to order a board yet. At the end of the day, it's just a switch (Q16) that turns on the coil. We'll help you sort it out. A lot of good help here.

Strange. Earlier when you ran the jumper wire from the top metal tab of Q16 into the J5 pin 8 connector test I mentioned, you said the coil activated.
I presume the Q16 LED is now flashing indicating a short circuit failure?

For no, check the coil. Grab your multi-meter and put it on low resistance mode. With the machine Off, connect each meter lead across the drop target coil. You should get a measurement around 22 ohms.

Ah, so that's where the confusion was. Hopefully the turnaround from Alltek is quick and you can finally enjoy playing Dolly