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(Topic ID: 277325)

What should I use to fix this?

By Silverstreak02

11 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Silverstreak02
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 11 days ago

I stripped the finish off my lockdown bar today. I’d like to use it for my restoration, but it has some character that I would like to cover up. The small scratches are easy enough to fix. I’m needing help with the cigarette burns and the deep gouges in the ends. I’m thinking about wood filler for the gouges, but would like other suggestions. I have no idea how to get rid of the cigarette burns. Can someone help?

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#2 11 days ago

When restoring wooden boats I mixed 2 part epoxy and sawdust from a like-colored wood to make a paste, works really well!

#3 11 days ago

I was considering this stuff to fill the gouges. What do you think?

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#4 11 days ago

I have not used that flavor of plastic wood but i have used that brand.
I found it hard to sand and it shows when you stain or polyurethane it. I would do a test on something else to see how it finishes.

#5 11 days ago

What do you recommend?

#6 11 days ago

You could try the epoxy and saw dust method.
You can also try the plastic wood but jut try them on scrap before you commit to that piece.
I am sorry to say, when i have run into deteriorated pieces like that, i just make them using the original as a template.
Examples: I remade the trim on my 1956 crossfire and made new legs for my 1959 Bally monarch shuffle bowler.
I am sure there is something that will dress up that piece but pretest. Once you commit , if you are unhappy, you will be forced to get another one.

#7 11 days ago

I've found the only way to get deep a scratched out of wood is to completely sand out the defect. I was never happy with the results from using any kind of filler and stain. It will take a lot of time to do it, but believe me you are going to spend a LOT more time trying to correct when you want to try another material.

#8 11 days ago

I would try what others have suggested. If these efforts fail try asking people in this forum if they have an extra lockdown bar. Also see if one of the Pinball Resource replicas matches yours.

#9 8 days ago

Well I tried my filler and although it is easy to work with it was a failure due to the color. It was a different brown than the wood.

I elected to start hand sanding the top to see if I can get rid of the scratches and the burn marks. So far the scratches are gone and some of the burns have faded although they are still there. I’m encouraged and will break out the electric sander tomorrow. The benefit of the hand sanding was that I was able to collect some of the sanding dust. I’ll use it when trying the epoxy method mentioned above.

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#10 8 days ago

What type/ brand epoxy should I use?

#11 8 days ago

The pc looks a lot better just sanded,I wouldn't use the epoxy/dust. Just coating the wood with 5 to 1 epoxy would look really nice and protect it. The scratches/gouges are not deep enough to warrant putty, and even though it is made from dust from the same wood it will dry slightly darker.
I use West System but it is pricy. Good news if you invest in a quart/pint kit with pumps it doesn't go bad.

#12 8 days ago

Nothing wrong with a little character here and there. Sanding and finishing would be all I'd do.

#13 7 days ago
Quoted from AlexF:

Nothing wrong with a little character here and there. Sanding and finishing would be all I'd do.

I decided to continue sanding until all the burn marks and gouges were gone. I broke out my electric sander with 60 grit and went at it. I’m happy to say I was able to get out all the marks and gouges. Unfortunately I also exposed some voids from termite damage. I had the machine fumigated before bringing it home, but that doesn’t change the damage from those little buggers. Although the sanding was intended to eliminate the need for filler it looks like I’ll be headed in that direction anyway. I’m thinking of the epoxy and saw dust method or using fiberglass resin and saw dust. Does anyone know if the fiberglass resin will work as well as the epoxy?
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#14 6 days ago

Unfortunately no. Fiberglass resin is cheaper but will look like crap using sawdust as a filler.

#15 6 days ago

Easier than resin is to mix sawdust in with wood glue. I believe I have done this with Titebond (it has been awhile), but you'll have to see if the glue will take stain evenly before you commit to using it. Try your mix on a scrap piece of wood to see how it takes a finish. If you pack a lot of sawdust into the mix you may never see the glue on a small repair anyway.

#16 6 days ago
Quoted from phil-lee:

Unfortunately no. Fiberglass resin is cheaper but will look like crap using sawdust as a filler.

Unfortunately this comes a couple of hours too late. I filled the holes with resin and saw dust during lunch today. If I can’t live with it I’ll have one made or post in the forum for one. I need to get new rails made so I can have this done at the same time.

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