(Topic ID: 78072)

What should I start on first? Elektra restore

By Aladdin

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

Pinsiders, where should I start on this Elektra? The good news is that the electronics work, so I know what I'll be coming back to if I start disassembling it.
Here's my post with photos on the condition:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-description-of-elektra-ever

I'm thinking I need to pull the PF out, empty the cab and head, order stencils from Twisted Pins and restore the cab first. Keep in mind, I'm not going to "rebuild" the cab, I'm going to sand the sh%& out of it once I glue it back together.

This will be my most challenging pin yet, but I can see the end result in my head and it looks great!

Thanks!

#2 10 years ago

Look for parts on the machine you would like/need to replace. Nothing like starting to get your hands dirty and you find out you have to order a part.

#3 10 years ago

As for parts, I'll need the translucent targets.
The biggest item (of course) are the plastics. These plastics must have been made with shrinky dink plastic!
I hope someone makes repros soon on these plastics, I don't have the time to make my own.

#4 10 years ago

good luck finding the plastics.....

#5 10 years ago

Yeah, when you search Pinside and RGP for Elektra, all that comes up is people wanting plastics!

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from Aladdin:

Keep in mind, I'm not going to "rebuild" the cab, I'm going to sand the sh%& out of it once I glue it back together.

All that lead paint on the cab means you are going to have to sand it outside (it will poison your garage forever), wear a bunny suit ($8) and a real respirator ($25) (don't even think of only wearing a dust mask).

If you are buying stencils already, I'd just get a brand new cab for $250.

The results will be much better and you will not create your own Superfund site.

#7 10 years ago

Thanks VID, I didn't even think about the lead paint.

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from Aladdin:

Thanks VID, I didn't even think about the lead paint.

It's dangerous stuff once it is sanded.

A brand new flat pack cab will save you about 25 hours of labor, have no lead, and will look much better:

http://www.xtremepinball.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67&products_id=191

#9 10 years ago

That's jut the cab right? Still need to buy the head too right?

-Jim

#10 10 years ago

Holly farrrrrrr......k. Just seen you pics.

Get you plastics off the machine straight away. So you don't crack or brake them.

Then do the glass trick squash them between two sheets of glass in the sun. That's if it's not winter there. Hahaha.

#11 10 years ago

I came across a guy (with help from a pinsider) with plastics see this thread.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/elektra-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/2

Not sure what he has left maybe email him see what he has. Keep in mind I'm in need of a shooter lane plastic.

#12 10 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

That's jut the cab right? Still need to buy the head too right?
-Jim

Head and cab = $250

#13 10 years ago

Yes, holy farrrrrrrrr
LOL

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Head and cab = $250

I've been sanding the crap out of my taxi and filling to no end. That seems so much easier.

#15 10 years ago
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:

I've been sanding the crap out of my taxi and filling to no end. That seems so much easier.

It really is.

Sometimes you sand and fill the grain, only to have it pop again when the paint dries.

New is so much better (and smells better).

#16 10 years ago

At this point I'm 90 percent done so it makes more sense to just finish it. I look forward to my next one where I just start fresh and give some one a free cabinet.

-Jim

4 years later
#17 6 years ago

What can I do about this? Someone screwed up threw the pf. Not trying to do a full restore or anything crazy like that...just want it to look a little less like shit and play the best it can...any advise would be followed...

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