Pictures??

Are you sure? I've always remove assemblies for roll pin work. Though sometimes you may have to disassemble and leave the coil hanging inside the game.

Do you have a roll pin punch set?

Do you have a short handle or stubby hammer?

If you can avoid removing the roll pin complete from the assembly, that can make things easier when you tap it back in.

Same. What game? All slingshot assemblies are removeable.

I've had to remove roll pins occasionally, but with a proper sized punch, it's not a huge deal. clamp it to a vise or bench and a few taps typically pops it out. Going back in should be the same.

I received a Bally flipper rebuild kit last month from Macro that did not have the roll pins installed. Glad we had a small arbor press at work!

A cotter pin that is exactly the right size might work. Anything that fits sloppy will egg out the hole over time.

As others said, this is one of those jobs where you have to pony up to get the right tools. That and some penetrating oil will work 99% of the time.

I've seen seemingly factory installed cotter pins here but I might be thinking of a non-pinball solenoid application. Jam it through and spread the pin arms. Probably not great for the link though.

Sling parts without slop are a HUGE factor in how tight the stuff operates, and makes the games respond so much better.

Here is what I use. Roll pin punch set to get the right size. Metal block with rubber surround to help hold in place on work bench or table. And hammer.

The metal block has a grove to lay plunger in. And a hole to drive roll pin out, or solid area to drive the roll pin back in.

If you are just replacing the plastic link between the plunger and kick arm, no need to remove the roll pin. Half way will do it, slip our broken link, slide in new one. Pound the roll pin back in.

LTG : )

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...for an emergency fix. However it will not last very long. It's too soft and it's shear strength is inferior to the roll pin.

All box stores should have spring pins and punches all sizes.

Issues I had was when both ends were punched. They can get mushroomed both ends and won’t budge. Fix is to grind the entry with a dremel and stone bit for a few seconds lightly. Tap out simple. I agree this is easier if you remove the part to a bench.

Hmmm?

Fixed the word to dremel. Hope that helps

Chunk of wood. If soft wood bang the plunger into it a little to hold it. If hard wood, cut a grove in it to lay the plunger on. Drill a hole in the wood if you like for the roll pin to drop into. If not, pull the roll pin out of the wood with a vice grips.

Not rocket science. Anything will work.

LTG : )

Did you try a c-clamp that you can screw tighten?
Normally you have to squeeze the roll pin with a pair of pliers to start it and then have the clamp push the pin in .

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I’ve done exactly that with the block of wood.. I should get the little base that you showed.
I’ve also used a finish nail of exactly the right size in a pinch to drive the pin out before I got the set of punches. I’ve also used needle nose pliers to keep the pin straight to drive it back in while the other part sits on a partially open vise. Now I have the hollow shaft pin inserters used for firearm work and they’re awesome.

I like the small c-clamp with washers method. I will try that sometime.

Dave

Where did you get that?

I've never seen a slingshot assembly that had to remain attached to the playfield to have the roll pin installed. I can't imagine they installed them like that at the factory either.

https://www.amazon.com/Real-Avid-Smart-Bench-Block/dp/B01LXE01KU/ref=sr_1_26

LTG : )

Is this the assembly?

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Punching roll pins has been my least favorite job on flipper rebuilds, mainly because I didn't have the right tools. Glad I stumbled on this thread.

I went with this complete kit. Make sure you you buy the set designed for roll pin removal, with the dimple at the end of the punch to keep it centered on the pin. Shouldn't have any more problems or knocked pins rolling off my workbench.

https://www.amazon.com/Real-Hammer-Punches-Bench-Block/dp/B084Z9N2ZQ/ref=sr_1_2

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