I have this board, and I couldn't get it to work with my Williams 11A (Fire!), and thus I will be getting the new Rottendog board, which is SUPPOSED to actually work. AIUI, the design for my board works fine with some other systems, just not 11A; of course, I can't verify if there is anything wrong with it, since it doesn't work in my 11A. It looks like the new Rottendog boards for 11B & 11C go for about $350, so presuming my board works with those systems, that should be a pricing reference.

I bought it brand new, and at the time, I didn't have the time to test it right then, so I let it sit for a year. Then I tried it, and couldn't get it to work, did a few things, and just put it aside. I can't even remember who I had bought it from, and Rottendog is unlike Alltek, who gives a lifetime warranty. AIUI, this MPU011A design has had some issues, and the new MPU9211 is supposed to work fine, so I will have no use fo the MPU011A. Of course, I could have other issues with my pin, but who knows? I have always thought that a new board should be plug & play, so yes, I am pissed.

I also have the OEM 11A board that has some corrosion, and as well some early Bally MPUs that look a little off, so I'd be interested in selling those too.

I wonder why that is. Is it just sloppy design? There really should be no excuse for a new board design not to perform perfectly. At the very least, it would be a copy of the original, and with better parts.

I suppose that if I could get the $300 that I originally paid for the MPU011A, I'd let it go for that and simply get the MPU9211, as that would be like trading it in, and not diddle around trying to get it to work in my Fire!

I suppose that if I could get the $300 that I originally paid for the MPU011A, I'd let it go for that and simply get the MPU9211, as that would be like trading it in, and not diddle around trying to get it to work in my Fire!

So what would be the value if I could get it to play?

It looks like I should try to get it to play then - but be mindful that any time spent trying to get it to work would be a waste if I can't get it to work. I think that at the very least I need to get a diagnostic button board (i.e., to isolate that, which I seem to remember being a problem before I gave up on it) and a switch tester to simulate a game. If it still doesn't work right, then after checking the voltages on the power board, and doing some grounding work (I seem to recall someone saying that there is a grounding fix that should be attempted), then it will be time to throw in the towel.

And of course, it could very well be that I've got other issues that might have blown out this board, so I would want to fix those before getting the new board. Maybe I should get a new power board to ensure that it doesn't fry my new board? Ugh!

Thanks. I'll have to keep this is mind when get back home to it.