(Topic ID: 244397)

What's a fair price for a very lightly used Rottendog MPU011A?


By swampwiz

4 months ago



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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by swampwiz
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    #1 4 months ago

    I have this board, and I couldn't get it to work with my Williams 11A (Fire!), and thus I will be getting the new Rottendog board, which is SUPPOSED to actually work. AIUI, the design for my board works fine with some other systems, just not 11A; of course, I can't verify if there is anything wrong with it, since it doesn't work in my 11A. It looks like the new Rottendog boards for 11B & 11C go for about $350, so presuming my board works with those systems, that should be a pricing reference.

    #2 4 months ago

    Anyone near you that could test and verify it in a proper game? Also won't whoever sold you the board take it back?

    #3 4 months ago
    Quoted from chad:

    Anyone near you that could test and verify it in a proper game? Also won't whoever sold you the board take it back?

    I bought it brand new, and at the time, I didn't have the time to test it right then, so I let it sit for a year. Then I tried it, and couldn't get it to work, did a few things, and just put it aside. I can't even remember who I had bought it from, and Rottendog is unlike Alltek, who gives a lifetime warranty. AIUI, this MPU011A design has had some issues, and the new MPU9211 is supposed to work fine, so I will have no use fo the MPU011A. Of course, I could have other issues with my pin, but who knows? I have always thought that a new board should be plug & play, so yes, I am pissed.

    I also have the OEM 11A board that has some corrosion, and as well some early Bally MPUs that look a little off, so I'd be interested in selling those too.

    #4 4 months ago

    I have several sys 11's and would possibly be interested.

    #5 4 months ago
    Quoted from swampwiz:

    I also have the OEM 11A board that has some corrosion

    I would be interested in seeing that board, as most are repairable. I prefer a repaired OEM board over Rottendog any day.

    A new board does not guarantee to be problem free.

    #6 4 months ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    I would be interested in seeing that board, as most are repairable. I prefer a repaired OEM board over Rottendog any day.
    A new board does not guarantee to be problem free.

    I wonder why that is. Is it just sloppy design? There really should be no excuse for a new board design not to perform perfectly. At the very least, it would be a copy of the original, and with better parts.

    #7 4 months ago

    I suppose that if I could get the $300 that I originally paid for the MPU011A, I'd let it go for that and simply get the MPU9211, as that would be like trading it in, and not diddle around trying to get it to work in my Fire!

    #8 4 months ago
    Quoted from swampwiz:

    I wonder why that is. Is it just sloppy design? There really should be no excuse for a new board design not to perform perfectly. At the very least, it would be a copy of the original, and with better parts.

    Too much involved to get working properly to work in all the different games. I am sure the design could not have been tested in every possible game.

    #9 4 months ago
    Quoted from PinballManiac40:

    Too much involved to get working properly to work in all the different games. I am sure the design could not have been tested in every possible game.

    This shouldn't have been an issue. The system 11 games don't have anything out of the ordinary to keep multi-game platform from working. Just not paying attention to the very minor differences in the 11/A/B/C/DE variants. (the major hurdle being the sound system on the 11/11A/11B, so if 11B games work, then they should all work)

    Special solenoid inputs/outputs are different between the DE and Williams games. I think he remembered that the outputs were different but maybe he forgot the inputs (11B and 11C don't use the inputs, 11 and 11A do) otherwise 11A and 11B are functionally identical (the unused switch opto circuits on 11 and 11A get deleted on 11B, and the sometimes populated audio amp on 11A's was only used on the first three 11(no letter) games and not needed for the 11A titles.

    11 and 11 A difference are almost as simple. 11A has the diodes already installed on the special coils so that's not an issue going backwards. Only real differences are the audio section has an amplifier that is needed on 11 but not on 11A and the 7 segment display instead of 3 diagnostic led's.

    The system 11 boards all shipped with 6116 RAM installed and only the first DE had that sized ram. 11B and 11C had extra pads and jumpers to install the 6264 that all the rest of the DE games needed. AFAIK you can run any of the system 11 games with the 6264 RAM.

    If you are saying that you can't get the rottendog board to work/boot in your FIRE pinball sounds to me like you have a currently dead board. For a dead board I'd price it at $100-$150. You should be able to get the board to boot and play and the only issues you might have would be the special solenoids and/or sound.

    #10 4 months ago

    I suppose that if I could get the $300 that I originally paid for the MPU011A, I'd let it go for that and simply get the MPU9211, as that would be like trading it in, and not diddle around trying to get it to work in my Fire!

    Quoted from kbliznick:

    If you are saying that you can't get the rottendog board to work/boot in your FIRE pinball sounds to me like you have a currently dead board. For a dead board I'd price it at $100-$150. You should be able to get the board to boot and play and the only issues you might have would be the special solenoids and/or sound.

    So what would be the value if I could get it to play?

    It looks like I should try to get it to play then - but be mindful that any time spent trying to get it to work would be a waste if I can't get it to work. I think that at the very least I need to get a diagnostic button board (i.e., to isolate that, which I seem to remember being a problem before I gave up on it) and a switch tester to simulate a game. If it still doesn't work right, then after checking the voltages on the power board, and doing some grounding work (I seem to recall someone saying that there is a grounding fix that should be attempted), then it will be time to throw in the towel.

    And of course, it could very well be that I've got other issues that might have blown out this board, so I would want to fix those before getting the new board. Maybe I should get a new power board to ensure that it doesn't fry my new board? Ugh!

    #11 4 months ago
    Quoted from swampwiz:

    I suppose that if I could get the $300 that I originally paid for the MPU011A, I'd let it go for that and simply get the MPU9211, as that would be like trading it in, and not diddle around trying to get it to work in my Fire!

    So what would be the value if I could get it to play?
    It looks like I should try to get it to play then - but be mindful that any time spent trying to get it to work would be a waste if I can't get it to work. I think that at the very least I need to get a diagnostic button board (i.e., to isolate that, which I seem to remember being a problem before I gave up on it) and a switch tester to simulate a game. If it still doesn't work right, then after checking the voltages on the power board, and doing some grounding work (I seem to recall someone saying that there is a grounding fix that should be attempted), then it will be time to throw in the towel.
    And of course, it could very well be that I've got other issues that might have blown out this board, so I would want to fix those before getting the new board. Maybe I should get a new power board to ensure that it doesn't fry my new board? Ugh!

    Power on your cabinet without the MPU and check the 5V and 12V power. If that's ok then test teh board.
    Put it in your game, Connector the power connector. Then the displays and or playfield controlled lamps. Also attach the ground cable and coin door diagnostic cable. Essentially everything except the coil ouputs. Then you can boot up the board into either test mode or attract mode and see that the board boots and plays.

    it's worth $300 only it it's fully working, otherwise someone can simply buy one from Rottendog with a guarantee. Otherwise selling an unknown board that's possibly non working it's worth significantly less.

    #12 4 months ago
    Quoted from kbliznick:

    Power on your cabinet without the MPU and check the 5V and 12V power. If that's ok then test teh board.
    Put it in your game, Connector the power connector. Then the displays and or playfield controlled lamps. Also attach the ground cable and coin door diagnostic cable. Essentially everything except the coil ouputs. Then you can boot up the board into either test mode or attract mode and see that the board boots and plays.
    it's worth $300 only it it's fully working, otherwise someone can simply buy one from Rottendog with a guarantee. Otherwise selling an unknown board that's possibly non working it's worth significantly less.

    Thanks. I'll have to keep this is mind when get back home to it.

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