(Topic ID: 100610)

What repairs did you do today?

By Atomicboy

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by tamoore
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 9 years ago

    Me, got home early from work today, thought I’d play some TZ. The opto for the left orbit has been acting up, but really started going tonight $&#*%!. Easy left side emitter that is accessible? Nope, reflowed, still intermittent, take of right ramp and a bunch of other crap, opto pads for right side of opto look suspect, reflow, working again. 2 hours gone (dicked around with everything not wanting to remove the ramp...).

    ...then I get a reset. *&$#%&@&#@&@*! 4.6v instead of 5. Already changed out the caps and bridges a couple years back, but knew I had been losing voltage from the driver board to cpu. Replaced both connectors and the Z, 4 in total, consistent across the board. Sweet back in business, 3 hours at this point.

    ...then I notice the lower gumball flasher is locked on &@@&*#@&$&@*#*#*#&$&@! Tested all tips and everything else on the driver 8 board, eventually noticed there is no voltage output from the J4 for this flasher. Tip good, but eventually (long time) find a suspect pad for a resistor, reflowed, no longer locked on. Ok, can I finally play now? Almost 5 hours at this point.

    ...no sooner do I turn the machine back on, sound is f’ed, realize left speaker isn’t working, are you serious – bloody hell !!!!!!!!. After investigating notice little wire from lug to inside cone is broker free at the cone... no way to fix that, swap it out with another new better speaker, but it’s not as loud as the stock one (still haven’t figured out that whole replacement speaker thing yet). Go back to the old, desolder the wire from the lug that is broken off, run a knife along the inside of the cone where the wire is rubber glued in, free it up, solder them back together, thread through the cone and solder back to the lug, reconnect, hot glued the wife on inside of cone back tight and boom, good sounds back. Over 6 hours in total at this point...

    ...thinking maybe luck is not on my side, and I should turn it on again tomorrow, but decided to brave it, three games played and every f’ing ball drains down the left outlane asap after plunging. Sweet 5 min of play, and it’s almost bedtime. FU TZ!

    #2 9 years ago

    cool story, thanks for the read.... except for the bit where you hot glued your wife!
    ..and got good sounds back. What? her screams from the hot glue?? LOL

    (I know, you meant wire)

    #3 9 years ago

    I repaired a Seawitch MPU200 board. It was not booting up. LED never came on.
    Turned out to be two part failure. 555 timer and U15 IC.

    #4 9 years ago

    Not really a repair but I've been shopping out a Banzai Run for atleast a week now. Almost done with the playfield stuff but there's still plenty to do after that. Good stuff.

    John P. Dayhuff
    Battle Creek, Mi.
    269-979-3836

    #5 9 years ago

    Adjusted the Tri mech on Playboy, then went to the bar and replaced a broken coil stop on Family Guy and replaced the plunger linkage screw and bolt that came off on south park.

    #6 9 years ago

    New LEDs yesterday, new powdercoated armor today. And might I say that removing 20-year-old Williams side rails is an absolute bitch of a job?

    #7 9 years ago

    Fixed a dead CPU System 11 board for a friend.

    Testing the PIAs was a PITA!!!

    #8 9 years ago

    Space Station: replaced a bad t-nut, repaired a broken wire on a feature lamp.

    #9 9 years ago

    Worked on trying to get coin mechs going in my Black Knight, but no success yet. Also got a few new LEDs installed as I work on slowly replacing the old bulbs.

    #10 9 years ago

    Replaced all the coil sleeves on my Gottlieb Atlantis to give it a little more zing. Removed the pop bumpers, put down new mylar platters and re-installed the the pops with new sockets. Also, rebuilt the chime unit to get rid of that horrible clunking. Not sure how people live with that!

    #11 9 years ago

    I tried to repair my jockstrap.Junk still don't fit.

    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I tried to repair my jockstrap.Junk still don't fit.

    #13 9 years ago

    Re-soldered my targets back on ,along with jet bumper contact assemblies.

    #14 9 years ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    I tried to repair my jockstrap.Junk still don't fit.

    Maybe your cigar is just too big? Oughta just give it to the dog...

    #15 9 years ago

    I didn't do it today, but after moving my Pinball Magic this weekend, it refused to power on. It looked like something might be going on with the power supply board.

    I started messing with connections, and noticed that when I held the bank of bridge rectifiers a certain way, the game would power up.

    I took the board out, and noticed a pretty bad solder job. I reflowed the solder on each of the points, put the board back in, and it fired right up.

    #16 9 years ago
    Quoted from Hyperball91:

    except for the bit where you hot glued your wife!

    Wrong place at the wrong time!

    Turned it on this morning just for a sec, clock error on a replaced clock board (mind you, 4 years old). There's my Tuesday night...

    #17 9 years ago

    Ugh. I am so far behind on repairs. I've got 4 games that feel almost unplayable due to various issues. Various switch issues, lights, connectors (all 4 are old Bally games). So I guess I need to get off my butt and actually do some soldering and connectors tonight?

    #18 9 years ago
    Quoted from tamoore:

    I started messing with connections, and noticed that when I held the bank of bridge rectifiers a certain way, the game would power up.

    I took the board out, and noticed a pretty bad solder job. I reflowed the solder on each of the points, put the board back in, and it fired right up.

    Did you also check the solder joints on the big capacitors as well? The tall capacitors sure do create downward weight and stress the solder joints. I had this with my PM, where as the solder joints were ok on my bridge rectifiers.

    #19 9 years ago

    Small fry stuff but last night I adjusted 3 kicker switches as the right barely went off,
    Removed, cleaned up and changed a resistor on a kickout coil (been acting sporadically and thought it was a mechanical problem. The change has worked so far but measured ok so I reckon it was the old flux buildup on the lugs)

    And shamefully replaced a 'fuse breaker' with a proper fuse as I noticed that I forgot to remove it when fixing my GI short...

    #20 9 years ago

    Was just bitching about my TZ issues, but this might be a good thread for kicking people in the ass to get stuff done, and brainstorming general issues and posting whatever that might assist others.

    6 months later
    #21 9 years ago

    99 cent part and a one and a half hour job to swap a bumper skirt. First time looking under a pin. Pop bumper light leads (tin?) are stapled to the playfield. Why didn't they just use insulated wires?

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    #22 9 years ago

    I soldered a loose wire.

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