My neighbor operates three large computerized CNC machines, mainly producing small-batch aviation and military contract custom aluminum parts. He just finished a batch of drone prop hubs for a military contractor.

I introduced him to pinball, and he offered to produce any rare or hard-to-find parts that would help the pinball community.

So my question is: What parts do we need produced? Keep in mind he only works with aluminum. That being said, he can produce very complex parts with extremely high tolerances.

Please share any ideas or concepts you may have. I hope we can make good use of his experience and equipment.

Thanks for your thoughts!

#2 4 years ago

WOT

Atari_Daze

Spd

Houston, TX

7y 141K 10,052 7

What a considerate offer, he does understand his return on investment for pinball parts would be orders of magnitude smaller than for aviation?

#3 4 years ago

BJW

PghPinballRescue

PGH Pinball Rescue

New Kensington, PA

10y 72,800 1,497 145

Anodized aluminum habitrails would be bad-ass.

#4 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

His machines sit unused 90% of the time. This would be a labor of love for the most part. I just thought it would be great if there were some un-obtanium type parts, or custom mod parts that he could make for the community. I've already had a PM for a custom mod part for Batman 66. We'll see how it goes!

#5 4 years ago

KOZ

KozMckPinball

Pinside member

7y 85,300 4,082 3

Does he work off of an existing part or does he need CAD files?

#6 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from PghPinballRescue:
Anodized aluminum habitrails would be bad-ass.

I'll ask him, but realize he starts with a block of aluminum. There would be a great amount of wasted metal in creating habitrails, I would think.

#7 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from KozMckPinball:
Does he work off of an existing part or does he need CAD files?

CAD files are best. When he gets sent requests from contractors, they always send a CAD file. I understand that not everyone can do this, so the other way would be to send a part in to be copied. Understand I know very little about the process, other than having watched him work.

#8 4 years ago

LXL

Isochronic_Frost

Saratoga Silverball

7y 221K 9,389 108 1 1

PLEASE HELP ME MAKE THE BRACKETS FOR MY ORBITOR 1 SPINNING BUMPERS!!!
These things are freaking impossible to find. I’m pretty sure they can be CNC’d

#9 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:
PLEASE HELP ME MAKE THE BRACKETS FOR MY ORBITOR 1 SPINNING BUMPERS!!!
These things are freaking impossible to find. I’m pretty sure they can be CNC’d

Drawing?

#10 4 years ago

BLY

MrBally

Pinside member

Paradise, NV

12y 141K 13,926 22 1

Game Plan drop targets.

#11 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from MrBally:
Game Plan drop targets.

Would aluminum drop targets operate properly? I would imagine they'd be a bit heavier. I have a Game Plan Coney Island in the resto que. If only my buddy could make an MPU-2!

#12 4 years ago

SMM

dr_nybble

Pinside+ Frequent

Ottawa, ON

10y 114K 3,540 15

Metal 2” flippers? Metal flipper buttons and start button for Williams EMs? Paging Odin for ideas.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metal-flipper-bats

#13 4 years ago

???

KenLayton

In Memoriam

Olympia, WA

12y 83,400 5,965

The coin reject button for classic Bally solid state games.

#14 4 years ago

237

slochar

Pinside member

7y 86,550 6,882

Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).

The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

#15 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Great ideas, one and all! If you're serious, get me drawings or an example to be 3-D scanned. I'm liking these ideas! The BM66 mod is gonna be sweet once I get the drawings, which my understanding is they are on the way!

#16 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from slochar:
Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).
The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

While I love the concept, a CNC machine wouldn't be the right tech to produce something as large as a stencil. A laser-cutter with sheets of metal would be another thing altogether...

#17 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from dr_nybble:
Metal 2” flippers? Metal flipper buttons and start button for Williams EMs? Paging odin for ideas.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metal-flipper-bats

Yes, THIS. It seems perfect for a CNC application. And the word "FLIPPER" wouldn't get PPS lawyers in a tizzy. Understand I will reproduce parts, but I won't be able to add anything that would infringe on a trademark.

2 inch Williams flipper (resized).jpg

#18 4 years ago

DAD

PinPilot

Texas Pinball

6y 43,550 260

Quoted from KenLayton:
The coin reject button for classic Bally solid state games.

I had no idea there would be a need for this, but it would very simple to reproduce.

#19 4 years ago

???

KenLayton

In Memoriam

Olympia, WA

12y 83,400 5,965

The aluminum dummy coin entry plate for the center chute on Williams silver coin doors.

#20 4 years ago

SMM

dr_nybble

Pinside+ Frequent

Ottawa, ON

10y 114K 3,540 15

Quoted from slochar:
Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).
The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

I cut stencils with a laser cutter in 1/8” MDF, produces great results. I can cut it for free at my local library makerspace.

#21 4 years ago

TFS

tominator

Pinside member

Ottawa, ON

7y 44,300 352 7

There is a cad file for cutting four or five sets of mirror blades from a single 4x8 sheet...try that?
Would make for some affordable mirror blades...

1 week later

#22 4 years ago

BJW

PghPinballRescue

PGH Pinball Rescue

New Kensington, PA

10y 72,800 1,497 145

Custom shooter rods?

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