(Topic ID: 255809)

What Part Would You Make With a CNC Machine?


By PinPilot

22 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by SarverSystems
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    2 inch Williams flipper (resized).jpg

    #1 22 days ago

    Dear Pinsiders:

    My neighbor operates three large computerized CNC machines, mainly producing small-batch aviation and military contract custom aluminum parts. He just finished a batch of drone prop hubs for a military contractor.

    I introduced him to pinball, and he offered to produce any rare or hard-to-find parts that would help the pinball community.

    So my question is: What parts do we need produced? Keep in mind he only works with aluminum. That being said, he can produce very complex parts with extremely high tolerances.

    Please share any ideas or concepts you may have. I hope we can make good use of his experience and equipment.

    Thanks for your thoughts!

    #2 22 days ago

    What a considerate offer, he does understand his return on investment for pinball parts would be orders of magnitude smaller than for aviation?

    #3 22 days ago

    Anodized aluminum habitrails would be bad-ass.

    #4 22 days ago

    His machines sit unused 90% of the time. This would be a labor of love for the most part. I just thought it would be great if there were some un-obtanium type parts, or custom mod parts that he could make for the community. I've already had a PM for a custom mod part for Batman 66. We'll see how it goes!

    #5 22 days ago

    Does he work off of an existing part or does he need CAD files?

    #6 22 days ago
    Quoted from SarverSystems:

    Anodized aluminum habitrails would be bad-ass.

    I'll ask him, but realize he starts with a block of aluminum. There would be a great amount of wasted metal in creating habitrails, I would think.

    #7 22 days ago
    Quoted from KozMckPinball:

    Does he work off of an existing part or does he need CAD files?

    CAD files are best. When he gets sent requests from contractors, they always send a CAD file. I understand that not everyone can do this, so the other way would be to send a part in to be copied. Understand I know very little about the process, other than having watched him work.

    #8 22 days ago

    PLEASE HELP ME MAKE THE BRACKETS FOR MY ORBITOR 1 SPINNING BUMPERS!!!
    These things are freaking impossible to find. I’m pretty sure they can be CNC’d

    #9 22 days ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    PLEASE HELP ME MAKE THE BRACKETS FOR MY ORBITOR 1 SPINNING BUMPERS!!!
    These things are freaking impossible to find. I’m pretty sure they can be CNC’d

    Drawing?

    #10 21 days ago

    Game Plan drop targets.

    #11 21 days ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    Game Plan drop targets.

    Would aluminum drop targets operate properly? I would imagine they'd be a bit heavier. I have a Game Plan Coney Island in the resto que. If only my buddy could make an MPU-2!

    #12 21 days ago

    Metal 2” flippers? Metal flipper buttons and start button for Williams EMs? Paging odin for ideas.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metal-flipper-bats

    #13 21 days ago

    The coin reject button for classic Bally solid state games.

    #14 21 days ago

    Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).

    The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

    #15 21 days ago

    Great ideas, one and all! If you're serious, get me drawings or an example to be 3-D scanned. I'm liking these ideas! The BM66 mod is gonna be sweet once I get the drawings, which my understanding is they are on the way!

    #16 21 days ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).
    The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

    While I love the concept, a CNC machine wouldn't be the right tech to produce something as large as a stencil. A laser-cutter with sheets of metal would be another thing altogether...

    #17 21 days ago
    Quoted from dr_nybble:

    Metal 2” flippers? Metal flipper buttons and start button for Williams EMs? Paging odin for ideas.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metal-flipper-bats

    Yes, THIS. It seems perfect for a CNC application. And the word "FLIPPER" wouldn't get PPS lawyers in a tizzy. Understand I will reproduce parts, but I won't be able to add anything that would infringe on a trademark.

    2 inch Williams flipper (resized).jpg
    #18 21 days ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    The coin reject button for classic Bally solid state games.

    I had no idea there would be a need for this, but it would very simple to reproduce.

    #19 20 days ago

    The aluminum dummy coin entry plate for the center chute on Williams silver coin doors.

    #20 20 days ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Does it have to be metal? I'd like to see wood stencils for repainting cabs. It seems like a lot of the fuss and bother of repainting cabs centers around stencil peel, and the lack of the proper overspray (which no one seems to want to replicate, because you really can't with a stick on stencil).
    The factory used stencils made out of brass AFAIK and just held it up to the cab and sprayed away. I made a prototype a long time ago for the front of a countdown cab out of 1/4" plywood and just sprayed right through it, worked great, correct amount of overspray. Only problem is that I used semi-gloss so it didn't match the sides of the cab. (I'd prefer to use flat/matte paints when doing a cab anyway, and if you wanted the gloss, apply a clearcoat afterwards. I like original look, though.)

    I cut stencils with a laser cutter in 1/8” MDF, produces great results. I can cut it for free at my local library makerspace.

    #21 20 days ago

    There is a cad file for cutting four or five sets of mirror blades from a single 4x8 sheet...try that?
    Would make for some affordable mirror blades...

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