(Topic ID: 24656)

What Molex Connector Is Needed Here?


By jrolson

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by pdman
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    100_0867.JPG
    molex.jpg
    1.JPG

    #1 7 years ago

    What type/size of 2-pin molex power connector is needed here to fit in this 2-hole socket on a Williams power board? And where can I get one?

    1.JPG

    #2 7 years ago
    Quoted from jrolson:

    What type/size of 2-pin molex power connector is needed here to fit in this 2-hole socket on a Williams power board? And where can I get one?

    i'd personally just get a 2 pin connector from the shack. or 4 single replace both male and female.

    other option is to look on ipdb for the game and manually and order it from marco. I'd still replace both male and female sides. tracking down that exact # is kinda a pain imo and it's going to take a week to arrive anyway. it's really just a 2 pin connector.

    if it's a comet, it's on pg 37 on the manual. connector 3j9 part number 5791-09436-00

    #3 7 years ago

    When I replaced mine I used a two pin molex male housing, not the PCB mount. I crimped 2 wires to the molex contacts and soldered the wires to the PCB. Worked great.

    #4 7 years ago

    Found one on ebay that looks like it will fit but I dont know if it's the right size...

    Says it uses .093 pins

    molex.jpg

    #6 7 years ago

    If it's the one one the board itself, here it is:

    http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=153

    #7 7 years ago
    Quoted from Tommi_Gunn:

    i'd personally just get a 2 pin connector from the shack.

    Quoted from pdman:

    When I replaced mine I used a two pin molex male housing, not the PCB mount.

    Seriously? You're advising someone to hack their board rather than repair it properly?

    #8 7 years ago

    I get the correct header from GPE as linked above and install it.

    I like to keep my boards close to original, and in a fashion such that if a board goes bad, an 'original' or 'rebuilt to original' board will be plug and play in its place.

    #9 7 years ago
    Quoted from terryb:

    Seriously? You're advising someone to hack their board rather than repair it properly?

    Not a hack at all. I had the Molex male housing and contacts in my stock. I didn't have a PCB mount connector. The only difference is the molex male connector flies off the PCB about 2 inches. It mates perfectly with the female connector. I can easily desolder the wires from the PCB and install a PCB mount molex when I have one. I'll try and post a pic.

    Again I wouldn't call it a hack, just using a little innovation!

    #10 7 years ago

    Actually I used a 3 pin Molex male and female connectors as that is what I had on hand. Easily reversible at any time. I extracted the female contacts and put them into the 3 position female housing. Next time I make a parts order I can order the correct PCB molex connector.

    100_0867.JPG

    #11 7 years ago
    Quoted from terryb:

    Seriously? You're advising someone to hack their board rather than repair it properly?

    You're telling me out of your 3 games, everything is 100% factory original? Everything??? Every single component and part? Nothing was repair with a lateral equivalent. You bought all those games nib, and no one else worked on them but you without factory parts? Right.

    It's a Comet, not a MM. It's a repair, not a museum piece. We're talking about a 2 pin connector. Are you going to be showcasing the pcb with velvet ropes? I'd love to hear someone say HELL NO I'm not buying that game after you soldered a new connector on that board. OMG it's not an original Williams part! Some of us know how to make a repair without butchering a board.

    What about a off board battery pack. Is that a hack too? How about a speaker upgrade? What about adding electrical mods to a game? Or taping into the gi to add lighting? Is that a hack?

    I'm not going to wait a week for a part, if I can pick up an equivalent in 5 min. It does the same thing. Complete waste of time imo. Unless you have plenty of time to waste, go for it. I'm sure if you get the exact same connector the game will be worth so much more, and it will seal the deal on the big sale in the future. I'm sure it will run more efficient, and play so much better. It will definitely be worth a week of downtime. Sorry, your game is not ready yet. I'm waiting for a 29 cent part. It will be ready in 7-10 days.

    #12 7 years ago

    .

    Quoted from Tommi_Gunn:I'm sure if you get the exact same connector the game will be worth so much more, and it will seal the deal on the big sale in the future. I'm sure it will run more efficient, and play so much better. It will definitely be worth a week of downtime. Sorry you games not ready yet. I'm waiting for a 29 cent part. I will be ready in 7-10 days.

    LMAO,.
    .

    Quoted from johnwartjr:

    I get the correct header from GPE as linked above and install it.

    I like to keep my boards close to original, and in a fashion such that if a board goes bad, an 'original' or 'rebuilt to original' board will be plug and play in its place.

    John totally understandable and the right way to do it. But in a pinch you know something can be substituted until the correct part comes in.
    In my case I fixed my Space Shuttle. It is going nowhere. But I will order the correct part on my next order and will return the PCB and harness connectors to original stock.

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