(Topic ID: 94743)

What LED is best for inserts for classic sterns?

By Atomicboy

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

I'm doing a Seawitch for someone, and trying to find something that works for the inserts, as every bulb I have and have tried is flickering really bad, worse than I have ever seen. The only older game I have LED'd is system 6/7, and I used CT mini's. Although there is some ghosting (minor), it's nothing like the flickering on and off fast that is happening with this machine. Not sure if this is common for classic bally/stern.

The problem is I don't want some high power LED, which most of the strobe/ghost free ones are, as there are clear inserts. Any ideas?

#2 9 years ago

Classic Sterns and Bally need either an Alltek LED lamp board ($99) or a resistor soldered to each lamp socket in order to use LEDs in the playfield inserts.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#alltekmpu

#3 9 years ago

Thanks vid, never knew that before, glad I didn't just order LED's. Do you know if this incorporates complete behind the scene control over ghosting and flickering, or do ghost free LED's still make a difference?

I'm not sure which way the person I'm doing this for will want to go, but if we have to get this board AND the more expensive ghost free LEDs, especially since for the clear inserts, it might be too much.

I would like to simply go for the concave older style, but less bright ones, we might just have to stick to incandescent for the inserts.

The GI seems solid when I tested, I'm assuming no issues there known?

#4 9 years ago

Not every lamp will need a resistor either. I use the LED's from comet pinball and add resistors (470ohm) where needed. The ghost busters don't help on this era of game because of the way the lamp is driven by the board. GI is always fine in this era when using LEDs.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

The GI seems solid when I tested, I'm assuming no issues there known?

No problem using LEDs in the GI, just the controlled lamps.

#6 9 years ago

You should not need rectified or "ghost free" bulbs for feature lamps since they are all individually driven by an SCR and not matrixed. Once the resistor is added (to keep the SCR turned on) they should light solid (to your eye).

#7 9 years ago

Learn something new every day on pinside !

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

You should not need rectified or "ghost free" bulbs for feature lamps since they are all individually driven by an SCR and not matrixed. Once the resistor is added (to keep the SCR turned on) they should light solid (to your eye).

I didn't think of that, that makes sense. I really want to get away with the concave cheap ones, not for cost, but just because they are not going to be blinding through the clear inserts. I guess that board, and their cost would equal doing the inserts in more expense leds on another game in ghost free anyway.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I didn't think of that, that makes sense. I really want to get away with the concave cheap ones, not for cost, but just because they are not going to be blinding through the clear inserts. I guess that board, and their cost would equal doing the inserts in more expense leds on another game in ghost free anyway.

Yeah. The rectification happened already for the feature lamps on the transformer assembly. Only downfall is you would just have to make sure the bulb gets put in the right direction / wired the right direction. Shouldnt matter on bayonet as long as no one has monkeyed around with the sockets.

If you want to do LEDs in the GI, use rectified LEDs there or else they will flicker 60 times a second and bug my eyes. GI is AC, without rectification they will only be on half the time.

Have to assume the no flicker plus ones have a cap in there too smoothing things out even more?

#10 9 years ago

Most common misconception on Pinside regarding LEDs = Flickering and Ghosting are the same.

Actually, they are NOT the same things AT ALL!

Folks will purchse the ghostbusting leds and then wonder why they flicker??? Because they don't eliminate flicker, they only eliminate ghosting (ghosting=lamps being slightly lit when they are not supposed to be lit).

#11 9 years ago

I am aware of the difference, and the flickering is the main concern with this. Ghosting I have seen and dealt with all the time, but these classic sterns have the worst flickering I have ever seen with leds.

#12 9 years ago

Have you tried a No-Flix, or Optix Super Flux in this application?

#13 9 years ago

I'm going to fire in that board first and then test some randoms I have to see what works. I'm worried about ordering LED's first before installing this board.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

I am aware of the difference, and the flickering is the main concern with this. Ghosting I have seen and dealt with all the time, but these classic sterns have the worst flickering I have ever seen with leds.

That flicker is from the SCR on the lamp driver board being unable to latch because the LED does not draw enough current. The fix is to add a resistor to increase the load so the SCR stays latched. This can be added anywhere, just go between feature lamp bus and the ground wire of each lamp. 200-500 ohm is a good resistor choice.

#15 9 years ago

But again, that is what the Altek LED board too right?

#16 9 years ago

No, the Alltek board latches fine with the low load of the LED.

#17 9 years ago

The Alltek lamp driver board works great in classic Sterns and Ballys for reducing the flicker.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The Alltek lamp driver board works great in classic Sterns and Ballys for reducing the flicker.

I always use them for powering LEDs in my classic Stern/Bally games.
http://www.allteksystems.com/

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

No, the Alltek board latches fine with the low load of the LED.

The alltek board has you hack, i mean alligator clip, to the feature lamp bus, so they can load each SCR with an on board resistor.

The alltek board does the same thing adding a resistor does. Alltek is just doing this on the lamp driver.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/images/Alltek%20Lamp_Driver_Picture.JPG

See the instructions on the top left and the resistor networks by the output connector pins are what loads up the SCRs so they dont blink.

#20 9 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The alltek board has you hack, i mean alligator clip, to the feature lamp bus, so they can load each SCR with an on board resistor.

Yep, it works great in all my classic Bally and Sterns.

Highly recommended.

#21 9 years ago

I have the Alltek lamp board in my Flash Gordon (and yes the aux lamp board too). This is in conjunction with an Alltek MPU. It still strobes some of the LEDs and has a highly flickery character overall. Not sure why. I'm considering adding the resistors as I've seen a different FG done with them and LEDs and it was rock steady, much more like the steadiness of incandescent (only much nicer colors). Maybe the Alltek isn't giving me quite enough current draw.

#22 9 years ago

If you want to go LED, but not get the LED brightness issues, I highly suggest cointaker frosted LED's under inserts. The warm white frosted are extremely close in appearance to incandescent under an insert.

But to be honest, I see now they are advertising a 2-led style which is different from the ones I've used in the past. I don't know if this would change my opinion. If they are brighter, I may start making a different suggestion. When I tested the older ones with a lux meter, they had an identical reading to incandescent bulbs in a bayonet mount.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from heckheck:

I have the Alltek lamp board in my Flash Gordon (and yes the aux lamp board too). This is in conjunction with an Alltek MPU. It still strobes some of the LEDs and has a highly flickery character overall. Not sure why. I'm considering adding the resistors as I've seen a different FG done with them and LEDs and it was rock steady, much more like the steadiness of incandescent (only much nicer colors). Maybe the Alltek isn't giving me quite enough current draw.

How bad is it? Have you had to use any particular bulb above the LED lamp board that seems to work better in conjunction?

So what I'm hearing is the LED lamp board does not solve this issue...?

#24 9 years ago
Quoted from heckheck:

I have the Alltek lamp board in my Flash Gordon (and yes the aux lamp board too). This is in conjunction with an Alltek MPU. It still strobes some of the LEDs and has a highly flickery character overall. Not sure why. I'm considering adding the resistors as I've seen a different FG done with them and LEDs and it was rock steady, much more like the steadiness of incandescent (only much nicer colors). Maybe the Alltek isn't giving me quite enough current draw.

Did you run feature lamp voltage to the lamp board like instructions say printed on the top left of the board?

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