Mystic
Bally, 1980Both of the slingshots on Mystic are missing one one those white posts. Can’t buy replacements until I know what they are called.
What size fin screw? Flat or threaded (or does it matter?)
Piece of plastic broke off a flipper today. Still seems to work well, though.
6B0E5FF5-AD23-41B7-964F-0A322EAD5B38 (resized).jpegF8D25D6E-6595-4187-A46A-3E715AE733AE (resized).jpegFlipper needs a "flipper bat", they're inexpensive. By the looks of the rubbers, might be time for new and a PF cleaning.
Quoted from tomdrum:pper needs a "flipper bat", they're inexpensive. By the looks of the rubbers, might be time for new and a PF cleaning.
New rubbers are already on the way from Marcos.
Cleaned the pf with naphtha & waxed, all the places I could reach without taking it all apart. Don’t have the space or time right now to totally do it.
The flippers work real well. Old sleeves & other parts. I read the thread about rebuilding flippers. Seems to want all old flippers redone on principle, stroke being too long, due to old parts. Uber Geeky or a good idea?
Quoted from LTG:Since you have a broken one. I'd say good idea.
Does it all have to come apart to replace the bat anyway?
Quoted from undrdog:Does it all have to come apart to replace the bat anyway?
Bat/base/shaft has to come up and out.
Can't quite tell if your flipper is just a plastic bat, or has the metal base screwed to it. If just the flipper bat, then that and the shaft need to come straight up and out.
LTG : )
You'll need a 1/8" hex socket driver or a key to free the 2 screws securing it to the flipper pawl. Replacing other parts is your call. If your flippers were never rebuilt and this is a game you plan on keeping spend the money and get the flipper rebuild kit from The Pinball Resource (PBR). You might think they work well but adding new EOS (end of stroke) switches, the other parts as well as new flipper bats will make it play better.
Turns out, the flippers have the metal plates.
Got new rubbers and plenty of #47 lamps to replace the cool white GI LEDs. Two new flipper bats are on their way from Pinball Resource. Decided to just replace the bats for now. The flippers are mighty powerful and responsive.
Also have new pop bumper caps from PR coming, as well as new lamp sockets for the pop bumpers, two new spool spacers for inside the slingshots, and some PF lamp sockets.
Once I get the new sockets in the pop bumpers I’ll revisit the idea of rebuilding the flippers. Still considering spending the $ on new drop targets so they have the correct artwork.
Still have to work on raising up the Special insert, which is barely not flush with the PF. Just enough to catch and divert a slowly moving spinning ball.
Step one: finish moving the business to our new space. Step two: work on Mystic.
Quoted from undrdog:Spool spacers won’t stay attached to play field.
Been filling the playfield holes with toothpick slivers & rescrewing.
Considering filling with wood filler or going to T-nuts.
Thoughts?[quoted image]
I've been converted to using t-nuts, they hold better in my opinion.
You'd have to recess Tnuts in that sling area. It's odd that they're loosening up, that's a zero impact area, although the sling mech would cause some vibration.
You need to use hardwood toothpicks and glue. Without the glue there's no point, it won't hold. I got a bunch of cheap hardwood dowels at Michaels and use those, but the key is to always use glue. Overfill it then cut it off with wire cutters.
Quoted from slochar:It's odd that they're loosening up, that's a zero impact area, although the sling mech would cause some vibration.
My bad. Wrong picture. The problem is with the spool spacers behind a bank of drop targets.
Probably still have to recess the tnus depending on where the drop bank frame is sitting, but yeah, that's a high impact area.
Just looked under the playfield. Too much gadgetry in that area. Will have to go with wood & glue. Too bad. T nuts seemed like the stronger solution.
The screws on these posts are only a half inch longer than the posts. Should I get longer screws so it goes deeper into the playfield?
There's no room for t-nuts, but I’m thinking that a plain set of #8 bolts and nuts ought to work. Then again, you don’t really see nuts below the playfield. Too much vibration for them to stay tight? Could do double nuts to keep it tight. Could eat into the wood, but so do t-nuts.
Quoted from undrdog:The screws on these posts are only a half inch longer than the posts. Should I get longer screws so it goes deeper into the playfield?
There's no room for t-nuts, but I’m thinking that a plain set of #8 bolts and nuts ought to work. Then again, you don’t really see nuts below the playfield. Too much vibration for them to stay tight? Could do double nuts to keep it tight. Could eat into the wood, but so do t-nuts.
Washer and blue loctite should do it if you have the room for a nut.
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Port Matilda, PA
Collingwood, ON