First post on a new thread.

For those not familiar with my old thread with a similar title this thread is to help show owners of machines what can go wrong ,what to look out for and possibly help to solve and repair an issue.

Will be working on location machines part time for an operator that chooses to remain anonymous.

There will be many machines covered as his route contains nearly 60+ machines and they rotate and get updated as new machines are added.

Went on one location visit to get familiarization with the establishment and machines. It was not a service call per say as much as orientation.

Did not have tools or camera on hand. the operator did have tools that he had me use.

One huge difference working on location machines that I forgot about was that you have to be very vigil about staying close to an open machine not only for possible patrons injuries and or accidents but because there is money in the coin door and there are cash boxes filled with coins. Leave a tool in the car make sure you close up the machine before you try to retrieve it. No I did not do that I'm just stating an extra step required while working out on location.

11/3

X Men…. Trough VUK due to wire detaching from coil Lug.

SM…. Lamp out due to coming loose in socket it was a #44 bulb not an LED.

RS… Bill acceptor never had ground wire attached to ground.

and so it begins…………………………………………….

11/4

Sopranos.. Trunk not activating due to wire coming off of left switch lug.

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Ball Hops due to Drop target down position being out of adjustment.

The Drop target remained about an 8th of an inch above the playfield in its down position.

A height adjustment screw is located on the bottom of the assembly as it is for I believe most drop target assemblies.

You want to adjust the height of the top of the target so that it is as flush as possible with the playfield surface.

Too High and you get ball hops or odd deflections too low and you can get stuck balls in the drop target channel.

Here I am pointing to the height adjustmeant screw it is the one with the Hex Head.

Turn it clockwise to raise the target in its resting position and counter clockwise to lower it in its resting position.

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11/5

Sorry no time for pics

RIBON… VUK due to switch actuator being deformed from ball strikes. Readjusting it was all that was required.

SM… Changed insert lamps to LEDs cleaned the playfield up and tuned it. Location owner after playing it said "This really rips now:

RS….. Display letters cut off on the bottom of display. Vertical adj on the Color DMD was too low. A few second adjustment with the menu buttons set the correct height.

11/10

Have to remember to take camera from the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CFTBL.. Both EOS switches out due to a wire coming off of each of their lugs.

Left Flipper stuck up..... Due to return spring breaking at one end. Knowing how to repair a spring when you dont have a replacement in the field is priceless . If I had the camera I would have shown the steps involved. The Spring will be a tiny bit shorter and may have more tension
when done. Just something to think about for its application.

Breaking flipper rubbers replaced with Titan rubbers. I like Titan for rings but for Flippers I prefer Super Bands.

The machines owner just goes with Titan all around.

Ball guide loose.... Due to screws coming loose in playfield. Required the removal of some plastics to get access to them.

Many loose assembly fasteners.

Very dirty playfield cleaned with Novus 2 and followed with Brillianeze.

11/11

Failed to take camera again. I guess after hunting for a parking spot for well over an hour it was easy to forget.

TZ…. Both Eos Switches out due to wire coming off one lug . IF I am correct that is 2 location machines so far with non functioning EOS switches with the cause being a wire or wires coming off of a lug . I will have to look into what the cause of this is.

Proximity board …due to it being installed with the board connector on the wrong side from the MFG. Causing trough switch actuator to catch on it and hang up. This also caused the board to be mounted to far from the ball in the trough to register correctly.

I went into detail about the new proximity boards with the backwards connectors on my What failed Modern thread. Post # 151 then later on in the same page.

ST LE loose fasteners throughout.

Haven't been keeping up as I am still trying to figure the best way to have things set up for location work. I did manage to get a few pics in

but nothing really interesting.

There is no time line of this and last weeks work but I will try to get it more together soon and post as I have in the past.

Wh20…….. 1 Eos wire off of 2 different switches. 1 coil wire off of 4 different coils. One switch out of adjustment and one opto pair too dirty to function. One Lock light out due to loose 555 socket.

1 of four coils with a wire off . Whats with the pink tape hack?
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1 of two eos switches with a wire off and this one is from the upper playfield.

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Disaster drop opto pair best way to clean is to remove rom playfield.

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Jet arena switch out of adjustment

Its the switch going up through the playfield to the right of the pop bumpers under a mountain.

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TZ …...filthy subway. One wire from 2 coils off,

Clean those subways!!!!!!!!

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Subway removed shows embedded dirt on the underside of the playfield. On location just wipe off as much as possible with alcohol and rags. In the shop sand this off with fine sand paper 800 grit is good.

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Here the subway is cleaned as best as could be on location with Novus 2 and Brillieaneze follow up.

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ST Stern dirty playfield and loose fasteners

Wrestle mania dirty playfield and loose fasteners.

This issue was really from Tues of last week but I didn't mention it as I knew I would have to do the repair in my shop over the weekend.

I could also take some pics.

Bally Playboy, Failed Power supply due to to dead Bridge Rectifiers. Not shorted but non conducting internally.

I took the unit out of the machine and brought it to my shop for proper repair.

The machines owner had a new Rotten Dog replacement board so I simply installed that and decided to rebuild the old one for the owner to use as a spare.

In the process of installing the new board it was apparent that the old wires had to be cut back close to 3/4 of an inch to get fresh copper
as there was wire corrosion from years in the elements. Ideally new wires all around is the way to go. I don't have matching colored wire on hand and it wouldn't be cost effective to order all the different types for just this one job.

Here is the Unit from the machine

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Close up of the failed board and burned header pins.

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Rotten Dog replacement board. I think replacing the old boards with new is really the best way to go.

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Solder side of old board note the odd electrical tape insulation.

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Another shot and you can see the state of the board. Its dirty covered in Nicotine stains and uncleaned flux.

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Some pics of the wiring connections and the state they are in.
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More pics of the solder side just for those that may be curious. The wire insulation is so old that all measures to clean them did little.

I used the wire insulation closer to the transformer that was still vibrant to properly ID the color code.

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First thing was to take the unit apart and clean and polish the base. I did not remove the transformer as this wasnt a restoration.
I installed new PCB standoffs as there was only one fairly good original the others had melted!

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I didn't get to take pics of the reassembly procedure but this is the result. Had it been a restoration I would have painted and polished the transformer housing as well

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Here are the 2 failed Bridges.

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The bridges were removed from here but now everything will be removed for a rebuild.

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Here is the old board bare of components with the test point loops remaining.20.jpg

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Board after initial cleaning

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Solderside before

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After initial cleaning

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Test loops cleaned of old corrosion

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Just awaiting the components and the reassembly can begin.

The Power supply will be installed back into the Playboy and new Molex connecters will have to be installed in the machine while on location. Rebuilding the power supply on location would have been possible sure but would never have been done properly without the correct tools and lighting. Everything needed to be cleaned up from old tar and nicotine to old flux. It is a job that you just don't do on location the right way.

Yes I know its been awhile since I have posted here but damn Location work in NYC is rough and leaves little time to take pics etc.

Anyway thought I would at least share my new Location caddy set up that I have finally found to take care of up to 90% of field issues and its light weight. Along with the caddy I also bring a back pack for nothing but cleaning supplies. IE Windex with vinegar, Novus 2,Brillianeze and Chamois cloths. All go in a small tupperware style box for ease on location.

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http://us.essentracomponents.com/shop/en-US/essentracomponentsus/pcb---electronics-hardware-44556--1/supports-73567--1

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/electronics/pcb-standoff.html

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=77&pg=1

Pic says it all!

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Took a good 1/2 hour using alcohol and a lot of clean microfibre cloths to get it off.

After it was removed I could see that it had left its shadow in the clear coat.

I figured not much too lose so I tried novus2 to see if it would polish it out and boom shadow is gone.

The lockdown bar looks like new again all shiny too.

The cloths look like I bled all over them as they were saturated.

I am not the operator I just repair his machines. The operator Al Cihak (Pinaholic) has machines on location throughout NYC I tech for him 3 nights a week. This location is in Bushwick, Brooklyn and it has four machines in the line up.