(Topic ID: 143516)

What did you learn from your last repair?


By swampfire

4 years ago



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  • 215 posts
  • 88 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by MrWizzo
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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#55 4 years ago

Careful inspection of a coin door GI lights can prevent direct cabinet switch problems.
Ground short feedback into the switch matrix due to a broken wire.
I missed it on the first inspection, because of improper lighting.
Caused complete havok with the MPU with switch "ghosting" when the wire touched metal.
No major damage however.

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

In the last couple days and with the game I just picked up - I need to find a way to get rid of mouse pee smell FAST!!!!!

Coffee grounds and orange peels.
Grounds absorb the smell, the peels will freshen the machine.
May require several treatments of each for several months, but just leave each in the cabinet.
Make sure all feces are out of the machine and the cabinet is fully vacuumed first, triple check this...
This method works well for smoke as well, but if tar residue is on the circuit boards that is not going away...

#79 4 years ago

Here is another one.

I once had a Haunted House main playfield that was not secured properly, fell forward, and hit me on the back of the head when I was working on the "cellar" playfield.
Knocked me unconscious with my arms inside the cabient for 5 minutes.
Woke up with blood on my face and a nasty headache as I struggled to lift the playfield back up.
Remember these Gottlieb System 80b games have no locking rails to ride on, and they are heavy in that awkward position.

ALWAYS secured non-locking playfields with bungee cords to the backbox and a towel from that point on.
No exceptions.

It could have been a lot worse.

No, the game was not "on", thank god, I was at least smarter than that with old games and no power interlock.

#82 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I feel inspired to invent something better than a bungee cord for holding playfields up. Probably using 2x2, and adjustable so it can work with any pin. I still have a scar on my head from Centaur's under-playfield raceway slamming down on it.

If the game is a "keeper", I use "hooks" installed underneath the playfield attached to a removable temporary slide mount (backbox size adjustable with screw clamps) with rods on the backbox with towel to protect the playfield. Never moves an inch, cannot fall, full upright locked position.
I do not like to use improvised "cheater bars" because of the potential to flex and warp playfields.
It gets so much worse with age of the playfield.
I do use the same "double bar" system for an extended service position for some games by attached them to the front of the cabinet, but it does not work for all manufacturers.
NOTE: I STILL use the bungee cords as a secondary lockdown, phobic now..

#90 4 years ago
Quoted from CNKay:

Is that for real?? I have this vison in my head of it happening to myself what a gut buster. I am rolling.
Them damn system 80 widow makers!
oh if it really happened sorry and glad you are all right.

Yes, and I was I stupid, and I knew better.
Lesson learned the hard way.
Carry the scar.

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Hence to wearing of the Knights helmet?

Full suit of medieval armor.
There is more truth to that statement which some people know.
A lot of it.

#106 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I learned that I can calm down a too-powerful trough kick out coil by putting a 10W 3 ohm resistor in series with it. No more ball hitting the glass when it kicks out of the trough.

There are positions that that's not enough. A small piece of foam weather stripping in the right place can do wonderful things.

#115 4 years ago

From my VERY EARLY days (over 25 years ago), "Polarity counts!"

#123 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Try replacing a glass in a DMD. 32+128 pins.

And using a jeweler's glass...

#144 4 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Learned this today.
Had a small screwdriver in my hand while testing the continuity of a fuse I had removed.
If you put one lead of the meter on one end of the fuse, and the screwdriver on the other end of the fuse, it will test bad every time.
When I finally realized what I was doing it took about 5 min. Just to stop laughing at myself.

Better than shorting out a game WITH your screwdriver...

#148 4 years ago

If you want spinners to score really "hot" all you need is a little force, patience, and needle nose pliers...

#164 4 years ago
Quoted from anthony691:

4) buy a freaking crimper.

Best learned early, less wasted money, time, and finger agony.
In fact buy BOTH MAJOR TYPES of crimpers, for every common set of pins, and don't forget about investing in proper extractors as well.

Right after that lesson, a collector should be lining up his next purchase of saving pennies in the piggy bank of a proper solder/desolder station which is temperature controlled.
Radio Shack is not going to get you that far...

1 week later
#175 4 years ago
Quoted from Fishbeadtwo:

You can never have too many spare parts......

Actually you can.

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#178 4 years ago
Quoted from Fishbeadtwo:

Do you need my address?

"What do you need" is the better question.

#185 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I learned that, given the option, a Bally playfield will always come crashing down on your head. I outfitted all of mine with bungie cords screwed into the back after learning that painful lesson for the third time.

Deja Vu Round #2 - ONE MONTH AGO.

"Here is another one.
I once had a Haunted House main playfield that was not secured properly, fell forward, and hit me on the back of the head when I was working on the "cellar" playfield.
Knocked me unconscious with my arms inside the cabient for 5 minutes.
Woke up with blood on my face and a nasty headache as I struggled to lift the playfield back up.
Remember these Gottlieb System 80b games have no locking rails to ride on, and they are heavy in that awkward position.
ALWAYS secured non-locking playfields with bungee cords to the backbox and a towel from that point on AT MINIMUM.
No exceptions.
It could have been a lot worse.
No, the game was not "on", thank god, I was at least smarter than that with old games and no power interlock."

#194 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I learned a new cause to weak flipper power on a Fire pin about a month ago. The left flipper would not even bit a ball half way up the playfield. I found nothing mechanically wrong with the flipper assembly and even changed the coil sleeve as there was a decent difference in how much resistance there was when compared to the right side. The flipper test showed no difference in how quickly the left flipper engaged/sprung back compared to the right. Upon pushing down on the flipper bat during the flipper I noticed the issue.

This machine desperately needs new flipper rubbers. If the rubber maintain its shape when removed, well...

1 week later
#210 4 years ago
Quoted from NicToria:

AS always. Thank your Pinball Partner/Helper...... When you take stuff apart and "Forget" to pay attention... She and or He is always watching your every move..

Or just take photos, and use your hand.
(Drum roll)

#211 4 years ago

Related really OLD tip for new EM collectors.

Always remove the backbox from the machine while transporting for many reasons.

The most important other than protecting the backglass?

It makes carrying the machine up or downstairs 100X easier.
The backbox is over 40%+ weight of the entire machine.

Your lower back will thank you immensely.

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