"300"
Gottlieb, 1975
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
Big Deal
Williams, 1977
Black Jack EM
Bally, 1977
Boomerang
Bally, 1974
College Queens
Gottlieb, 1969
Duotron
Gottlieb, 1974
Flip-A-Card
Gottlieb, 1970You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dgampguy.
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Quoted from Peruman:Just finished up this Skylab. It's going to a friend's house who loves the space theme. Last thing to go on it are black legs, for now I'm letting the kids run as many "test games" as needed.
Alberto[quoted image]
Very nice! We’re picking up one of these tomorrow. I hope that it comes out as clean as yours. The backglass has some flaking in the blue area, so I’ll probably be learning the cellophane trick.
Dave
Gottlieb Jack in the Box that we bought out of a storage shed last month.
I started with serious vacuuming and mean green on the cabinet.
Then a fuse check. Surprisingly only one 15A where there should have been a 10.
Then a new 3 prong cord (I find it’s much easier to do this when the playfield is out and the box is sitting on the ground.
My curiousity got the better of me, so we put it up on its legs, reassembled the head, and plugged it in. Given how long it appeared to have sat, I wasn’t expecting anything. To my amazement, it powered on and didn’t go into the endless score motor spin. I pushed the replay button and it reset. Dropped in a new ball and it kicked it out to the shooter lane and showed ball 1. All the basics work, so now I can get cleaning. Nice to not have to crawl through every step of the startup sequence for once . Told my wife that I was shocked.
Plenty of cosmetics and overdue maintenance, but a great start.
Quoted from o-din:I screwed up and forgot to cover the post hole between the flippers that doesn't belong there again. Oh well.
The dead bumpers use specially printed caps that are not available and mine did not come with them. Can anybody make stencils or what would be the best thing to do? I don't really need them, but it would be a nice touch to complete the game.
From IPDB-
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What a coincidence, I’m finishing up a 1959 Williams Tic Tac Toe Woodrail and somebody added a center post on that one too. It’s far from perfect, but it plays as designed and looks pretty good with the pinball rescue plastics.
Great job on your game, looks like a fun one.
Quoted from EMsInKC:If you have some kind of anvil you can tap that down with a hammer to straighten it. Take your time and go easy.
Fine scratches use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Keep going up to maybe 3000 grit. Takes some work.
I use a couple of C-clamps and a flat piece of angled steel to flatten out bends where the door was pried open.
Quoted from John_in_NC:McFaddens lacquer.
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I tip my hat to you, John. That’s the good stuff, and in line with the original.
I have heard that it is no longer available.
Great work!
Dave
Quoted from Peruman:Got the Top Score setup. It’s on saw horses since the leg tees are stripped. Backbox turns on but the PF is out. It’s stuck on Tilt and the scoring motor keeps spinning.
Checked the backbox and all 10 bonus balls are there.
Debug starts tonight, check all of the Tilt switches and go from there. Fortunately it came with the schematic and manual.
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Nice game. I helped someone fix the 4 player version. I like the 2 player glass much better. Good luck with the troubleshooting. I keep a set of leg tees on hand for just that situation where you get a new game and they’re messed up...
Dave
Quoted from arcadekid-51:hey guys on my 58 williams p&b theres a buzzer on the board that makes a weird noise ,i think something is missing ,can you see anything??thanks
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I’ve never seen one like that in a pinball, but that looks like a standard buzzer. The coil is wired through the switch such that when it pulls in, it breaks the connection. Then when the relay lets go, it makes contact again. Do it over and over and you get a buzz 
Dave
Quoted from TimMe:That fake digital art on the score reels! That was so goofy when the game came out, but now I just love that look. John Osborne was always kind of embarrassed that Gottlieb decided to try using that style of score reel on his game. A rare wedgehead that is well worth saving.
- TimMe
I’m missing those reels on my neptune.
Mine has come a long way from how it looked when I got it. Wedge head woodwork repair, playfield swap, backglass swap, new shooter bezel, etc.
Congrats bicyclenut !
Dave
Quoted from Murphdom:I remember someone picking up a game with the Neptune reels in it a short time back. I wish I remember what game it was and when so you could hunt them down for them and trade. I just remember it looking really odd.
I saw one on the Facebook EM group and asked the person who posted it if they were interested in working out a deal for those reels, but didn’t hear back after they responded saying they didn’t have the game yet.
The one that got away
Quoted from sizteves:Bought this 1969 Williams Paddock some days ago. Cleaned all contacts and switches I could find, and now it resets and starts. The playfield is dirty but in good condition. The "A" bumper makes one of the backbox relays hang up, otherwise it seems like everything is working.
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There is a relay that corresponds to the A pop bumper that gets pulled closed when the bumper pops. There’s an end of stroke switch that is opened when the pop bumper pulls all the way down. When the EOS switch opens, it releases the relay. As long as the relay is closed it’s going to keep the 1 point or 10 point (when lit) score relay in the back box energized. So, either your pop bumper isn’t popping or the EOS switch is shorted.
You’ll probably want to start a new thread on this.
Good luck, it’s a great game.
Dave
Quoted from Peruman:The latest project out of storage next to the current one. I have only worked on one Bally machine before. I’m looking forward to getting this Hokus Pokus up an running.
Alberto
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Great game. I’ve brought 2 back to life. The first one had a lot of playfield wear, so we found a better example and I gave the worn one to our son.
Good luck. Feel free to reach out if you’ve got questions.
Dave
Quoted from txjlh:Just picked this Bally Space Time last week from an antique shop, going to start going through it and cleaning it up. It is in pretty good shape already, though it has a few issues I need to work out. I was pleased as to the condition it is in.
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Thats a great game, I recently finished one up including major playfield paint issues. There are some unique features that make it one of those games where you end up with 15k points at the end or 70k
Good luck,
Dave
Quoted from BleacherBum:Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
It has been a lot of work. Nothing worked when I got it and there was lots of rust. More time spend de-rusting and polishing metal than I care to remember. Also, the playfield is a complete repaint. The original playfield paint was too far gone for touch up.
I spent a lot of hours on one last year to get it from sad to pretty decent looking, but it pales in comparison to yours. I figure that I can always do another pass in the future to do more in-depth restoration, but I doubt I’ll ever reach your level. Congratulations, well done
Dave
Quoted from Peruman:Same Groovy from above. Previous owner used a sheet of 3/4” plywood to cover the vandalized cabinet. Time to repair this in a slightly nicer way
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I’ve replaced the bottom boards on 2 cabinets. It’s amazing how nice it comes out and makes you feel like you got a new box. It also gives you the opportunity to form up any other bad glue joints and get the mech board cleaned up.
Dave
Quoted from Sea_Wolf:It looks nice. Some games just don’t have enough lighting or good light placement and benefit from LEDs and some do and look great with 44s.
My solution to the former problem is Warm white frosted LEDs from Comet. I tried the Sunlite bulbs from Comet but they are a tad too bright and white.
I like the sunlights for the score reels. It makes them pop. I’ve also used them on the darker BgResto backglasses.
In general, I do stick with incandescent 47s or 44s.
Dave
Quoted from DanMarino:Time Zone is in the house.
Got it from dead to working within 4 hours. Still trying to figure out why the center post isn’t going down. Also, looks like this one has 2 sets of back legs on it. The front is too high up.
Edited to add: Looks like it has 31 inch legs on all 4 corners. My Fireball has 28 inch legs. I'm thinking about swapping the back legs from the Fireball and putting them on the front of the Time Zone. That way I'll have 28 on the front and 31 on the back. Does anyone else do that with their EMs?
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That game should have 28.5” legs all around.
I believe the down post relay should fire the down post coil to cause it to drop. That should happen due to the rollovers or on the next ball.
It’s a fun game, enjoy.
Dave
Quoted from Flipsteen:My Bowling Queen one’s score reel started sticking and after pulling the reels in and out to rebuild them, the plastic channels that hold the score reels in place started cracking and breaking apart which is known to happen on these older Gottliebs. Often the top or bottom channel edge where the cotter pin holds the score reel will break and if you’re lucky only one of them will crack so you can have at least one pin holding the reel. But these were totally gone and had to be replaced.
Until recently these channels were impossible to find. Fortunately John at Space Coast Pinball has made very nice replicas of the plastic channels (I guess with 3D printing) and sells them on Pinside. I drilled out the old rivets and bought new 3/32” x 7/32” brass rivets from Pinball Resource. The base of the new channel is a little thicker than the original so you’ll need 7/32” rivet length rather than the original Gottlieb 5/32” length. Since the rivets are tiny and relatively soft they were easy to bang in place using a steel nail punch and hammer on top of a steel vise. (A number of threads on Pinside discuss various methods for riveting.) You can also use #2 screws and nuts to secure the channels but the rivets are easy to install and I like to restore to the original.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the rivet info. I’ve replaced several of the newer style guides with the tabs that break off and used screws and nuts. I’d prefer the original look.
I submitted a full scan of the manual to the IPDB earlier this year. I guess it never got posted by them. 
Dave
Quoted from A_Bord:More aprons. Surf Champ today.
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You are the master with those stencils! Great work.
Dave
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Memphis, TN