Overland Park, KS
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:Working on the Mystery Game.................. [quoted image]
It clearly is a Gottlieb.
(Topic ID: 255737)
Linked Games
"300"
Gottlieb, 1975-
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
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Big Deal
Williams, 1977
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Black Jack EM
Bally, 1977
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Boomerang
Bally, 1974
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College Queens
Gottlieb, 1969
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Duotron
Gottlieb, 1974
-
Flip-A-Card
Gottlieb, 1970
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1 week later
Quoted from Murphdom:Mine is dark wood in the areas you sanded.
I attributed the clear wood areas darkening to moisture exposure. I've changed that opinion due to a few games that have come through my hands in the last couple of years. Now I attribute that darkening to excessive smoke exposure. Which makes sense for many of the games we encounter.
Quoted from pinwiztom:Though Team One looks to be the easiest to reach and get out.
I contributed a couple of games to a big tournament a few weeks ago here in KC. When I mentioned I had a Team One handy in the garage the tournament director jumped at the opportunity to have it in the tournament lineup set on novelty mode. I always thought the novelty mode was lame,.....until the concept of tournament play came into the picture. All of a sudden it made total sense. When I was going through it before sending to the tournament I was practicing to see how high a score I could get. It was a lot harder to put up a big score than you might think.
Quoted from Murphdom:I almost lost it today. I recently acquired a Gottlieb Drop-a-Card that’s in pretty nice shape. I went to shop it out today and upon quick visual inspection it looked pretty clean on the inside. It didn’t have the expected dirt and it appeared like someone had taken some care with it. Upon further closer examination I found that the previous owner had oiled almost every single switch and every other moving mechanism for that matter quite methodically. The oil wasn’t noticeable for the most part unless you widened the switches manually or found the occasional drip. I just took lots of deep breaths and spent forever removing oil. It’s shocking that thing worked 95% when I got it.
I appreciate that most games I encounter are unmolested from an internal workings standpoint. The workings were mysterious enough that people left them alone for the most part.
1 month later
Quoted from boilerman:this is a first.. someone tried to re tune the chime box?[quoted image]
And my guess it just doesn't sound "right".
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I'm trying to finish up a Bally Safari, but I need one damn switch that I can't seem to find anywhere on the planet. I ordered what we thought was the correct switch from PBR on two separate occasions, but no dice.
Why don't you buy loose switch blades and points from PBR and make the one you need? The biggest issue would be to define the blade thickness you need, which takes a micrometer.
And the switch that is in place looks like it was already replaced so, to me, following it as a guide could be misguided. So who knows if that configuration is correct. The schematic should give you an idea whether that should be a high voltage contact.
Quoted from o-din:Not quite the effort I put in on Arrow Head, but close enough for government work.[quoted image]
Where does this rank compared to Big Daddy gameplay?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Blutarsky:Added a few pictures of my cave and North Star/modified 0-9 match unit.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Kent, when can I invite myself over?
1 week later
Quoted from goldenboy232:Top Card! Almost ready for TPF in March![quoted image][quoted image]
I'm looking forward to playing it too!
4 weeks later
Quoted from EMsInKC:That's a Wade playfield. It's been in the game awhile.
Mike O and I swapped cabinets. He took my original cab and I took one he had bought that was horribly nicotine stained. Unbelievably, it was maybe the most solid cabinet I've ever worked on. Very little filling and no gluing needed at all. And the inside was just pristine.
Mike may have pictures of it. I didn't take any before I got started on it. It was almost orange, it was so bad. Never seen anything quite like it.
Before pictures of Scott’s repaint.
3589DCB9-BC93-4A9F-9D01-C9373EE11D36 (resized).jpeg996633E7-D939-452F-94EB-62D7199E3D87 (resized).jpegA72FA479-A6C9-43AE-9C5D-6441960785C3 (resized).jpegE78E4092-931E-4B66-AA57-5BAF21F4A482 (resized).jpegF57F8B72-7F4A-40E3-8AA5-BC5C828C2794 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mopar:I was already aware of it not having a backglass, but years back when this showed up on a trade in,
I knew I didn't get the best of the deal with it having no back door, and the coin door lock was jig-sawed
out. But bit the bullet. Turned out to be a harder bite after opening it up earlier this month.
Already seeing the surprises on the outside, I should have expected.
Fortunately I had another machine I wasn't so sure what I was going to do with, but for sure it's a parts machine
now.. It plays fine, just need to do a little more cosmetic work..
[quoted image]
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What were they thinking?????
I started working on a game for myself this weekend. The first two are before pictures. The last is an after picture. The worst part of the game was the backglass and it is done as you can see in the last photo. I sent the glass off to BGResto last summer and got it back last fall. This was the first time he had done this glass.
I've heard this is a challenging game to play and am looking forward to it when done.
IMG_6650 (resized).jpgIMG_6651 (resized).JPGIMG_9682 (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from mark532011:I think I may be in too deep on my Miss-O....
Why did you do that?
Quoted from mark532011:lol, I have dreams of a beautiful full restore, with polished switches and contacts, shiny coils, clean wires and smooth playfield... I am a little (ok a lot) worried about the put-back-together phase of the restore though.
Sorry for the snarky remark.
When I strip a playfield I remove the staples and ground braid and leave all the solder joints in place. Even if I was planning to put new ground and light sockets in place I'd leave the original intact and then transfer them over one at a time.
Don't sweat it too much. I'm sure you numbered/mapped every single solder point and it will go back together without a hitch.
Quoted from mark532011:I don’t want to hijack the thread, but I would love to hear of how you map/number the gi circuit....I am worried about that as it could lead to shorts if done wrong..
First off, hope you took lots of photos of that side of the pf before you started taking it apart.
What I do to map it is serialize each position on the playfield/solder point with a number in sequence. ie 1, 2, 3, etc. Then I would make a small flag of tape wrapping it around each desoldered wire making a flag and marking the number on each flag to match the serialized numbers on the pf. If you don't actually write on the playfield you can take a picture of it and write on that or even make your own representative diagram and mark it. There are lots of ways. The key is to make sure you have a clear record of what goes where.
1 week later
Quoted from goldenboy232:Picked up a Gottlieb jungle this morning, which will go into the “restore to sell“ queue.
Play field is in nice shape and will clean up really well. Dirt is the main problem on this game. The back glass and the playfield both look nice. Some cabinet scratches of course. Not sure yet if I’ll do any cabinet painting on this one or not.
One question, though, look at the serial numbers on this cabinet: is the “S“ serial number on the left side something that an operator would’ve added? Or is this a sample game? I’m assuming it’s the former. Maybe "SN" is serial number and they had their own numbering system at the operator.
68840 caption=""][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
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The one with the SN prefix looks to be an operator number.
What serial number is stamped on top of the head?
1 week later
Quoted from ckcsm:Both look nice, which is your preference?
I love my Quick Draw; I'm on Wade's list for the second remake, but's it's been a while and I was starting to think of restoring the one in my game; I've done others prior.
For now the Wade playfield is the preference because it is playable. The other is a game I am doing for a friend. He restored the playfield himself and I am just putting it back together and have not gotten to play it yet. I posted it to show how good a job he did on the restore. He has a body shop so touch up and auto clear is a daily thing for him.
Quoted from stashyboy:Yeah, nice job on the kick out hole touch-ups. Barely a trace if you didn't know it was there. If I had an original play field that looked at nice, I don't think I would need to upgrade to a Wade Playfield. This game on the other hand really needed one. Just starting a playfield swap on game #298 (2001)
The restored playfield is a friend's and he did do a very good job on the kickout hole repair. He had well more than kickout hole repair to address on this playfield.
I'm in the same boat on the 2001. I'm going to have my friend autoclear it before I put it in my game. I had the Wade QD playfield autocleared before installing it also.
Quoted from John_in_NC:I’m getting tired of waiting on Wade to rerun this one. I have a quick draw Playfield that could easily be restored but wanted a new one. If I finish and recover from doing my Cowpoke ground up before he gets them going I may just go for it.
The wade playfield has only been in my Quick Draw since last fall. Before that the original playfield had an OK restore to it from about 10 years earlier. I will admit that the gameplay was great on that only OK restoration. I attribute that to the more consistent playfield surface where much of the insert cupping was overcome. I got in on the original run of Wade QD playfields so I had it sitting around for 6-7 years before I installed it. Both the restored playfield and the Wade playfield are worthy of this great game.
1 week later
Quoted from SteveinTexas:I have my Slick Chick in perfect playing condition. It can be really tough if you play it without thought. You got to hit the top lanes to get points and need to hit the top target as often as possible. Then concentrate on lighting the Slick and Chick for bonus points. There is other rewards for replays but hard to get. Last thing you may need to remove some wire from the bumper coils to keep them lively. If not your game will not be long. Love the game.
Steve has it spot on regarding game play. The pops need to be active enough to provide proper balanced action. On my game I removed 2.5 to 3 full wrap layers from all of the pop bumper coils and it brought it back into balance. Not so much of an impact that the game plays itself, but to the point that you get a hit to the top center target once or twice a game. I suggest you play your game first to define if the play is adequate. Once the pops power is in balance the game is a blast to play.
Quoted from undrdog:Less coil makes it stronger?
Less wire equals less resistance = more power.
Compare it to a flipper coil: the end of stroke switch on a flipper is jumpering out a portion of winding when you flip so the flipper has power. Once the EOS opens up it brings into the circuit the hold winding(more wire) to keep low power on the flipper and keep the coil from burning up.
1 week later
Quoted from stashyboy:Wow! The Playfield looks excellent underneath. Lot of work and patience to remove that mylar but worth it!
More amazing is the fact that mylar was installed basically day one.
How common was that in France? That never occurred in the US.
Quoted from kangourou:Look at around the bumpers.
I saw that. But that game came with the dry mylar protectors from the factory. So the red adhesive is something someone applied later on to keep it from getting worse. Maybe the dry mylar rings got damaged.
But the rest of the playfield looks like they put it on day one. That never happened here.
Quoted from pinhead52:Of course if you know the right people then you can get it shined up really good
[quoted image]
Are you chrome plating stainless now?
3 weeks later
Quoted from EMsInKC:More Gigi progress. I need to shine the lockdown bar receiver a bit more and the coin chutes so the receiver is just sitting in place. Once the receiver is done I'll get the shooter in place too
Also got the 0-9 disc back in place. MikeO did some nice soldering work on some worn rivets. 26 wires to desolder. Fun!
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The soldering should be routine now with your new Hakko station.
You should be able to run a start test once you put the relay boards in the body and head.
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from EMsInKC:That's been restored to a point or it's a very low play playfield. There's quite a few hints there. The kickhole holes have little to no damage. The white areas until the slings are still very white, those tend to yellow badly. There's no ball track in the upper arch. No damage under the bumpers that can be seen and no wear near the kickout holes. There is the usual fading under the flippers and there is a definite change in the upper arch in the natural areas. Appears to be the usual small divot that appears under the rebound rubber. There is the typical damage under the posts from the post screws.
My vote is this is a very low play playfield or it was meticulously maintained. That is extremely nice assuming it's an original playfield.
They exist.
image2 (resized).jpegQuoted from boilerman:wow that is nice and blonde mike. almost all have a great tan.
I like that analogy. I like blondes.
Speaking of blondes, this is the blondest blond I've ever dated.
DSC09691 (resized).JPGQuoted from tyking:I got a ‘76 Royal flush when I bought a house and the previous owner left it behind. I always loved pinball and now I am in heaven. I didn’t know how much I would enjoy the restoration too. the thing is, it looks like the machine was hacked to play in free place by bypassing a switch on the ball # motor (I’ll try to attach a photo). As a result I’m thinking that the extra ball / replay function is not working. I hear the knock when I reach the # of points, but when the ball drains, it either advances to next player or when playing one player it just sits in the drain with extra ball light flashing.
So I’m wondering how is the extra ball supposed to actually work both in the mechanical sense and the game play sense. Is “replay” the same as extra ball? I think there is a difference between adding a credit and adding a ball, where the credit is a new game, versus adding a ball to an already existing game. So I want to clarify whether replay means adding a credit or adding a ball.
And also, I’d like to know whether there is a better way to put a RF on free play, so that all the functionality stays intact. Any feedback would be great. Thank you.
[quoted image]
Royal Flush does not have extra ball capability.
4 weeks later
Quoted from dr_nybble:Man I can see a lot of trash in the paint with that high resolution picture....just like looking in the mirror, don't look too close! Have to paint outside unfortunately. Get the overspray look and no discernible ridge between colours.
The art is a little quirky which is replicated in the stencils (stuff being a bit crooked).
You're being too hard on yourself. You have achieved the perfection you were looking for - factory appearance regarding splatter and overspray. The slight misalignment is no different than the factory either.
Well done.
1 month later
A customer's game is cleaning up nicely. There are good and bad points to shopping a Bally of this era. The main relay board was pretty easy to go through since you can swing it up and forward to service it without removing it from the game. The top arch was a total pain in the ass puzzle to reassemble including one pair of wires through the arch and playfield for a switch as the top right gate. Cleaned up well though.
IMG_0492 (resized).JPGIMG_0559 (resized).jpg 3 months later
Quoted from stashyboy:In the middle of a Gottlieb Pin Up restoration Before & After playfield touch up just completed the head.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice.
How is it there wasn't wear at the top kickout holes?
4 weeks later
Quoted from koji:Sys1 flipper mech in golden arrow?
Yes. The new style flipper mech started around Surf Champ.
Quoted from boilerman:proto type flipper assembly on the right compared to assembly from surf champ on.
[quoted image]
Did they use a conventional EOS switch on the prototype mech instead of the newer style EOS? The mount is about the only thing I can see as different but I can't visualize the switch they may have used there.
Quoted from Dono:Yet another add a ball with a single coin chute. Can someone give me a reasonable explanation of why anyone in their right mind that's trying to maximize earnings with a machine on site would want a game with a single coin chute? A downed coin chute and your machine is making nada. When I was playing back in the day, all games had at least 2 and sometimes 3 chutes. I remember many times at least one chute jammed or not working... because of this why have a game with only one chute? Makes 0 sense.
One coin slot was the way the AAB games shipped from the factory.
1 week later
Working on a Flip a Card for a friend. This came with the shooter lane and top arch coated in shellac or varnish. After I stripped the playfield he sanded the coating off and cleared it. His plan is to clean up the center area of the playfield as well after I'm done.
Surprisingly the mechanics and rest of the game are decent condition other than the varnish and wear abuse it has seen. Something tells me it will play well when I'm done.
IMG_0913 (resized).jpg
Quoted from EMsInKC:So now I'll follow you and call it the bottom board. I sometimes go back and forth calling it the bottom or motor board.
I've always used main relay board vs. head relay board to distinguish them. An old timer that I know calls the relay board in the body the "floorboard" and is quite adamant about that name.
Quoted from TimMe:Wow Mike, that is a new one on me! Funny, I wonder if all these different names were regional variations.
He is a retired aircraft mechanic. So who knows where he got his terminology.
Quoted from TimMe:OK, one more cabinet repaint posting on this Gottlieb 300 I'm rebuilding. Today I did the stencils for the head. Here are pics showing first the orange stencil, and then the addition of the black stencil to complete the artwork of the woman bowling. If you look closely at the left-hand pic, you can just barely see some remnants of the original black stencil underneath the new cabinet base coat.
After all of that abstract cabinet art in the 1960s, I really liked it when Gottlieb started putting art on the cabinets in the 1970s that represented the theme of the game. Anyone know who did the stencil artwork for these 70s Gottlieb cabs? I think they're very well done.
[quoted image]
The bottom board and head insert for this game are already rebuilt, so next week I start stripping the top of the playfield to do the PF artwork restoration.
- TimMe
Gorgeous work, Tim.
Quoted from Vic_Camp:Shopped out all 25 wedgeheads in my basement collection. New rubbers, clean playfield glass channels, clean and adjust switches where needed, new balls, wax playfield, replace any bad bulbs, polished chrome posts, clean playfield glass inside and out, wipe clean all metal and more.
Some games needed more attention than other due to the longevity of the years in my collection. Started in Nov 2020 and finished in Jan 2021. Man.. they are playing spectacular!
I also started shopping my other games in my collection including my Bally Bingos, Williams games and my Solid State games. Card Whiz,Countdown,Joker Poker,Blue Chip,Lite a Line,Gay Time are completed and l plan on getting to the others soon.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You’re the man, Vic.
1 week later
Quoted from Dono:Old Chicago - playfield swap complete. A few minor issues but she's playing! I did some experimenting with LEDs under the inserts - special/extra ball/double bonus. If you decide to use LEDs in this game, you'll need the non-ghosting. Reds and green look great (photo doesn't do it justice), while pink under the extra ball inserts looks terrible; will need to try orange. The Comet 1SMDs are nice and not too bright. Metal trim and cabinet work to follow.
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The teal posts and skirts put it over the top, Don. Nice work.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Head of the Merry Go Round I'm restoring has the base coat and silver spatter on. Waiting on some paint to arrive to start the design.
Also final clear on my Gigi playfield. Touchups were done and then clear. Not done by me, a local guy who does fantastic work. Playfields aren't my strength so I go where the talent is.
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It’s going to be amazing. The 4 Square pf next to yours is mine. I’m looking forward to it.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jrpinball:The AAB version is much better.
DAC was the game in college in 1974 that hooked me on pinball. It was the one game in the dorm game room that was three games for a quarter where the rest were only 2 games for a quarter. Being able to win games and keep playing was perfect back then. Had no idea that AAB was a thing.
But based on opinions here I let my DAC go because I was able to find a nice PAC. Now to get it shopped to really experience it. I hate it when work gets in the way of pinball.
1 month later
Quoted from stashyboy:Refresh on the C-37 pinks.
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Way to go.
I redid the faded purple on a Strange World many years ago and it was a dramatic improvement, similar to what you just experienced with C37. One of the simplest restorations out there.
Quoted from Playdium:What did you use for the purple?
It was a rattle can purple that was as close to original that I could find. It was a shade darker/richer than the original that still matched well with the backglass. I called it a win.
Quoted from Playdium:I would like to do mine someday, but I haven't seen the color in Rust-O-Leum. Do you still have the paint info?
I looked up my records and it was over a dozen years ago. I haven't seen any leftover can on my paint shelf in that time so my suspicion is I used it all up.
I do recall not being able to find a tone that was close to the original. The original has its own personality. What I was able to find was definitely more/richer purple than the original color. It bugged me at first but not as much as the faded color. It would not surprise me if there are less choices on the shelf today.
Good Luck.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Silverstreak02:Wow that cabinet looks brand new. That old Chicago also looks great. Show us the rest of your games.
And Old Chicago hasn't even been repainted yet.
4 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from vec-tor:3) Note: I like to reclinch/repair old lamp sockets...
... I have a picture essay on this website on repairing old bayonet lamp sockets with out soldering...
Where might we find your picture essay on reclinching these lamp sockets? I searched and couldn't find it.
2 months later
Quoted from joshmc:Does anyone know how I might be able to remove scratches to side rails. I have a table
mounted buffer with a sisal attachment but it didn’t work
[quoted image]
Get one of these, chuck it in your cordless drill, and you will be done with nicely refinished side rails.
https://skygeek.com/3m-051144-80799-combi-s-wheel-3in.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=3m-051144-80799-combi-s-wheel-3in&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CjwKCAjwhaaKBhBcEiwA8acsHGJVlwQTGUePAPnMdcAyDSU5Cppe2uQSUjso2Tgb2gYTMoiKBv338hoC9KIQAvD_BwE
Quoted from MikeO:Get one of these, chuck it in your cordless drill, and you will be done with nicely refinished side rails.
https://skygeek.com/3m-051144-80799-combi-s-wheel-3in.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=3m-051144-80799-combi-s-wheel-3in&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=CjwKCAjwhaaKBhBcEiwA8acsHGJVlwQTGUePAPnMdcAyDSU5Cppe2uQSUjso2Tgb2gYTMoiKBv338hoC9KIQAvD_BwE
I meant to say you will be able to redo the grained finish on two side rails in less than 10 minutes with this flapper.
3 months later
Quoted from Mopar:T.W. up next.
I'm primarily AAB, but I've heard
good things about this pin..
[quoted image]
Rightly so.
1 week later
Do not interpret soap pads to mean 3M scrub pads. 3M scrub pads are abrasive and will scratch the door. Mothers with a blue paper towel will get you polished about as much as you can get. Or a buffing pad with Mothers will also work.
1 month later
Quoted from EJS:Not looking forward to this one
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One bite at a time.
Quoted from Vintage-Pinball:I'm making cab stencils for a '64 WMS River boat. Doing them to the original pre-production drawings although there's no view of the head's face, so I'm going with the flyers picture. If anybody knows if the head's face differed, please let me know.
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Three photos from IPDB say different from the flyer.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1965&picno=47916&zoom=1
2 weeks later
Brought this home last weekend.
All I could say was ugh when I opened up the body. Williams decided to fill every open inch of this game.
29271A47-D4AC-40DB-90B0-F63F9506D6B2 (resized).jpeg8E9D2BA2-51FD-4D82-A9CE-F69D0D17A59F (resized).jpegC1195045-D81E-41FA-9A87-A27DDB5DB7CA (resized).jpegE025E6A9-6F2A-485D-A6F5-BD1BC1DF45F5 (resized).jpegQuoted from Blake:Took me a while to restore mine. Although yours looks like it is a much better starting point. Mine was stored in an open ended barn for years.
Yeah, this one is decent shape to start with. The play meter says around 25,000 plays which isn’t much. Most of the game shows this. Even the legs look brand new with no corrosion or rust whatsoever. And it plays through a single player game. I haven’t tested it for a multiplayer game. I normally go through every single mech and switch on a game. I may be selective/strategic with this one if it continues to play OK.
3 weeks later
Quoted from atpcfiaim:Gigantic screw found holding a flipper bracket.
Looks more like a hole filler.
1 month later
Quoted from Peruman:The mylar plates were so old that pieces of them were attached to the playfield. As if they had bonded with the clear coat.
That blue one looks like someone tried to glue down the Mylar, probably because it had curled.
That would be a more practical explanation.
Quoted from DanMarino:Cleaning and waxing. Don’t want to lose any more paint. Likely going to install a playfield protector.
Personally, I'd consider stripping that playfield bare and sending it to these guys:
https://www.lasvegasplayfields.com/
You'd be amazed at what they could do with it.
1 month later
Quoted from SilverLiningMan:They sure did their job for 60+ years!
Operators back in the 50’s and 60’s really took care of their games. They needed to earn a long time. And we benefit from these protectors. I have a few games that have benefitted from the wood grain.
2 months later
Quoted from jaytrem:Was making some good progress on my Roller Coaster until my washing machine had a little problem.
Does working on pinballs make us more capable of tackling other projects, like washing machines? Or is it the other way around?
Quoted from mrm_4:I can’t get this glass receiver bar cleaned up, not sanding like the rest of the stainless steel for this machine. Would painting it dark blue with white specks to match the cab be too much color?
I’d like the steel to match the rest of the trim in the way of how much it reflects but it’s not happening
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You can get it replated. Nickel, not chrome. That is what I do.
Quoted from mrm_4:Who replates it and what’s the cost?
Check with Chris.
The cost to plate that shouldn't be more than about $40 but what do I know. Then you have to add on shipping both ways.
Quoted from jaytrem:These parts look MUCH better after a lot of work with these ball sander things.
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Congratulations.
This works better/more directly for regraining those parts.
3M 80678 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from EMsInKC:Williams Travel Time
Cleaned up the playfield, some touchup work on the head. Quite a bit left to do. Gonna be nice.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Home use only? Or just well cared for?
3 months later
Quoted from EMsInKC:Finished the head on Ice Revue...
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Nice glass.
1 week later
Quoted from atpcfiaim:1977 Williams Lucky Seven
How is it for game play?
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mopar:Trying to gathering up a little money to put into one of the cars,
so this week I went through the Flying Chariots. It's too bad
the cabinet's been painted. The rest is pretty nice.
I had this machine stored for years, and never realized it
had a plexi backglass..
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The plexi backglass means the art is usually perfect, no flaking. Nice.
2 weeks later
Quoted from EMsInKC:Continuing on Ice Revue. Getting closer. Finished up the coin door. Dropped the playfield in to see how many bad sockets I have. Not too many it appears.
Looks like you are having a lot of fun, Scott.
1 month later
Quoted from EMsInKC:High Hand stripped down, ready for cleaning, touchups and clearing
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That’s a clean High Hand playfield. Normally they show wear.
Quoted from A_Bord:Just finished refurbishing my Moulin Rouge coin door. Also wet sanded the restored playfield to 2000 grit.
Please follow along on the full restore thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/moulin-rouge-em-restore-a-remis-en-etat-un-flipper
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Nice work on the coin door restoration.
Ouch on the drilled out lock hole. Looks like someone used a 1" drill bit. Where do you even find a 1" drill bit?
A 1/4" bit right down the center, with a little oil lube, will usually do the job.
Quoted from illawarra92:started on surf champ last weekend. game has been sitting for ages, so will need everything pulled apart and rebuilt.
new pbr order confirmed as sent this morning
though our winter has just started so not as much will get done until it warms up a bit
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Your game looks to have a full playfield mylar. Is that the case? Assuming so, your playfield has survived well. Are you planning to remove it?
1 month later
Quoted from EMsInKC:Gottlieb High High. I've finished the cab repaint and the bottom board. My partner is working on thr playfield. But now the fun begins. I have to reproduce the outer part of of the lightboard because it is crumbling and disintegrating. Just a bit of woodworking. Working on cleaning up all the coin door mechs now.
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Nice work. You really like this game to go to the length you have.
When did you get an Olympics?
1 week later
Quoted from A_Bord:It's a game changer. I used to do this with waterslide decals but the light holdout on the text using paint is much nicer.
Frankly, with the cut template, your approach could solve any pop center cap need.
This could be a game changer for the unique cap needs like yours, much less any other cap need.
Thank you for sharing this.
1 week later
Quoted from jrpinball:Probably the "Foto Finish" he's offering. Similar cabinet art.
Yup, Foto Finish.
1 month later
Quoted from EJS:I think this is the most famous game for insert popping
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Agreed, or Sure Shot.
Quoted from pinwiztom:wonder why?
Bad batch/lot of glue
or plywood different
or holes bored out slightly too big
or batch of inserts themselves slightly too small
Commonality is that Bank Shot/ Sure Shot and Ship Ahoy/Buccaneer
are mostly numbered inserts, as is Golden Arrow
In my experience there was a range of time where loose inserts and bad playfield posts intersected. I have no idea if/why there would be any relevance to these two issues but So76/Pioneer, Card Whiz/Royal Flush, Bank Shot/ Sure Shot and Ship Ahoy/Buccaneer are four games that multiple examples have come through my hands over the years and all suffered from both of these issues.
Looking at the Volume P parts catalog these four titles were run in sequence. The games before them were Abra Ca Dabra and Gold Strike and the games after were Surf Champ/Surfer and Volley. The noted games directly before and after have, in my experience, been stable when it comes to posts and inserts. I would guess they had an issue with the plastics supplier(maybe had to use an alternate) in that time period which they rectified soon after.
1 week later
Quoted from dr_nybble:Finding that the switch stack soldering on Egg Head pop off fairly easily. I've never worked on a Gottlieb before, is this common?
I had to resolder 10-15 wires on an EggHead I went through a few years back. I went through and tugged on every wire in the game to get them addressed. It is common to this era. I'm not sure what was different about the materials they were using at this time compared to before and after this era. Earlier games and later games don't share this defect. But there were a few/several in this era that did/do.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mbaumle:Looks great! Shame a 2001 had to be sacrificed though.
The 2001 was rough to begin with and had been cannibalized long ago. I've had that cabinet sitting in my garage since 2009. It was purchased as a replacement cabinet for a 2001 I had at the time that had been painted over in oil based paint. I ended up finding a complete nice 2001 so this one continued as parts for other games. The playfield went to a good home where theirs was trashed and the head with guts went to a Dimension body that was missing the head. He will obviously have some rewiring to do.
I still have the motor relay board although it is missing some parts.
When Ken and I spawned the Wizard project this shallow body cabinet was immediately locked in as my donor cabinet. I'm lucky to have access to Scott. His work is great.
Quoted from stashyboy:I have done a few of these with just re-stencling the faded color and leaving all the original with some minor touch-ups The rest of the game looks pretty nice. I guess I understand if you have a brand new play field that a brand new cabinet paint might make sense.
I did just this same thing, to a Strange World cabinet no less, about 15 years ago.
2 months later
Finally working through my shallow body Team One to Wizard conversion. I’ve gotten through the cabinet and head and main relay boards. Now I need to do the playfield.
I have to give a shout out to EMSINKC for the cabinet repaint and Pinhead52 for the head relay board conversion.
IMG_4502 (resized).jpegIMG_4503 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from Aladdin:Finishing a Soccer. Needs a pop bumper cap. Got it to work 100%.
Prob one of the best EM’s I’ve played so far. Loud as hell with the balls, bells and spinners![quoted image]
Looks like a low play or home use example.
2 weeks later
Quoted from EMsInKC:TKO playfield swap done and it's breathing. Got a few problems to sort out but not bad considering the initial condition
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Scott - You are having entirely too much fun.
Quoted from A_Bord:More aprons. Surf Champ today.
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These DIY restored instruction card holders are inspiring. Nice work.
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